how to check fuel pressure?
#1
how to check fuel pressure?
does my 92 vg have a schrader (s/p?) valve if I get a pressure gage, how do I check the pressure?
The car seems alright, but I can feel some slight vibration thru the gas pedal intermittently (you can also feel it thru the floor board), doesnt seem like that much of a loss of power, but I'm wondering whats going on. cap, rotor, wires and plugs are new 6 months ago. put some b 12 in the fuel tank, also seafoamed the intake manifold. This started happening about a month after that. I dont believe it a tranny problem, is noticable when the car is started and its cold outside (i.e. 50 degrees or so) when idling. Also happens when car is warm, regardless of rpm, engine temp, and vehicle speed. usually more noticable when at steady rpm whether constant speed, or accelerating. No check engine light.
reason I ask is I also replaced fuel filter, when I pulled hose off, the gas just dripped out why no spray like usual? the fuel system is suppost to be pressurized right? filter was dirty, but new one didnt solve my problem. could my fuel pump be on its way to the grave yard?
92 max 201,000mi
The car seems alright, but I can feel some slight vibration thru the gas pedal intermittently (you can also feel it thru the floor board), doesnt seem like that much of a loss of power, but I'm wondering whats going on. cap, rotor, wires and plugs are new 6 months ago. put some b 12 in the fuel tank, also seafoamed the intake manifold. This started happening about a month after that. I dont believe it a tranny problem, is noticable when the car is started and its cold outside (i.e. 50 degrees or so) when idling. Also happens when car is warm, regardless of rpm, engine temp, and vehicle speed. usually more noticable when at steady rpm whether constant speed, or accelerating. No check engine light.
reason I ask is I also replaced fuel filter, when I pulled hose off, the gas just dripped out why no spray like usual? the fuel system is suppost to be pressurized right? filter was dirty, but new one didnt solve my problem. could my fuel pump be on its way to the grave yard?
92 max 201,000mi
#8
no schrader valve; check. I'm guessing they have in line gages at the auto parts store. what should my psi be for the fuel line. what resistance (ohms) should my injectors properly put out/have. thanks.
car is in the shop for an oil leak probably the oil pump again like last time. too much fuggin work for me.
but I'll check the other stuff when I get back in town thursday
car is in the shop for an oil leak probably the oil pump again like last time. too much fuggin work for me.
but I'll check the other stuff when I get back in town thursday
#9
Originally Posted by internetautomar
drill, tap, use a GM one
not that anyone should do it.
I was just figuring he found something that I never looked for.
not that anyone should do it.
I was just figuring he found something that I never looked for.
Well,every gm or other car companies schader valves i've ever seen are not removeable from the fuel rail,but are integrated into the fuel rail itself..[a one piece design]
Not saying there is not one out there,i just have not seen one that could be removed from the fuel rail...
#10
Originally Posted by Sevorg1
no schrader valve; check. I'm guessing they have in line gages at the auto parts store. what should my psi be for the fuel line. what resistance (ohms) should my injectors properly put out/have. thanks.
The injectors should be between 11-14 ohms...
#11
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Well,every gm or other car companies schader valves i've ever seen are not removeable from the fuel rail,but are integrated into the fuel rail itself..[a one piece design]
Not saying there is not one out there,i just have not seen one that could be removed from the fuel rail...
Not saying there is not one out there,i just have not seen one that could be removed from the fuel rail...
#13
Originally Posted by maxitech
How 'bout teh Caddy?
http://198.208.187.182/internet/View...umber=17112759
don't recall which cars use it exactly
#14
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
The injectors should be between 11-14 ohms...
oh yeah can you show me or explain where the fuel pressure regulator is at. I know what they look like on other cars, but I would be the one to start screwin with the wrong thing. thanks in advance!
#15
Originally Posted by Sevorg1
Thanks buddy. Is it a bad idea to just replace one injector if that is the problem? I know that most people perfer to replace all at once, but if it works then it works right. The car only has to last me one more year. although that year will be at least 35,000 mi worth of driving.
If the car is just a temporary ride,then yes just replace the bad injector...
Originally Posted by Sevorg1
oh yeah can you show me or explain where the fuel pressure regulator is at. I know what they look like on other cars, but I would be the one to start screwin with the wrong thing. thanks in advance!
#16
is there an easier way to get the injector plugs off of the injectors without breaking the sides of the plugs off? mine are dry rotted, and as soon as I take a screwdriver to the sides, they snap. I got one plug off and the onlything that was holding the little staple clip on on was the plastic back part of the plug. I'm deffinately going to check the fuel pressure before I ohm out anymore.
pointers any one? btw I was doing this with all of the injectors in place, and did not diassemble anything. I'm sure they would come off easier if I were to take the intake manifold off and pull the entire fule rail.
Also, while I had the one injector unplugged I decided to start the engine to see what it ran like with no pluse. This sensation was much more pronounced than the trouble/virbration/slight lack of power that I am experiencing normally. Is it possible for when the injector is going bad to only partialy pulse, and thats why I'm not noticing the harshness that I did with the injector unplugged. makes sence to me if the coil in the injector is slightly damaged that the injector would still pulse, but not with the brevity or stoutness that it normally would. But that is just my electrical engineering speaking. let me know what you think.
btw the one injector I tried was at 13.1 Ohms. sorry for the novel. I know that more detail helps over the forum though.
pointers any one? btw I was doing this with all of the injectors in place, and did not diassemble anything. I'm sure they would come off easier if I were to take the intake manifold off and pull the entire fule rail.
Also, while I had the one injector unplugged I decided to start the engine to see what it ran like with no pluse. This sensation was much more pronounced than the trouble/virbration/slight lack of power that I am experiencing normally. Is it possible for when the injector is going bad to only partialy pulse, and thats why I'm not noticing the harshness that I did with the injector unplugged. makes sence to me if the coil in the injector is slightly damaged that the injector would still pulse, but not with the brevity or stoutness that it normally would. But that is just my electrical engineering speaking. let me know what you think.
btw the one injector I tried was at 13.1 Ohms. sorry for the novel. I know that more detail helps over the forum though.
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09-12-2015 04:53 PM