Headgasket? Again!?
#1
Headgasket? Again!?
So awhile ago I did a headgasket job on the rear bank of my VG. Everything went pretty damn smoothly for it being the first time I've ever done major engine work.
Now, after about 8-9 months I've noticed some milky oil under my oil cap. I did a compression test and found the rear bank was all at 150 and the front bank was at 210.
I regretfully reused the old headbolts, and now I believe that they're the culprit. I purchased some new headbolts to put in, but I'm not sure if it'd be better to just put in another headgasket or just swap the old bolts for the new ones.
The leak is so minimal that I'm not even sure it is the headgasket. I don't want to ruin this new set of bolts only to find out that I should have just put another new headgasket in.
I have student teaching coming up and I need a damn car.
Thoughts?
Now, after about 8-9 months I've noticed some milky oil under my oil cap. I did a compression test and found the rear bank was all at 150 and the front bank was at 210.
I regretfully reused the old headbolts, and now I believe that they're the culprit. I purchased some new headbolts to put in, but I'm not sure if it'd be better to just put in another headgasket or just swap the old bolts for the new ones.
The leak is so minimal that I'm not even sure it is the headgasket. I don't want to ruin this new set of bolts only to find out that I should have just put another new headgasket in.
I have student teaching coming up and I need a damn car.
Thoughts?
#2
Originally Posted by 7mJoe
So awhile ago I did a headgasket job on the rear bank of my VG. Everything went pretty damn smoothly for it being the first time I've ever done major engine work.
Now, after about 8-9 months I've noticed some milky oil under my oil cap. I did a compression test and found the rear bank was all at 150 and the front bank was at 210.
I regretfully reused the old headbolts, and now I believe that they're the culprit. I purchased some new headbolts to put in, but I'm not sure if it'd be better to just put in another headgasket or just swap the old bolts for the new ones.
The leak is so minimal that I'm not even sure it is the headgasket. I don't want to ruin this new set of bolts only to find out that I should have just put another new headgasket in.
I have student teaching coming up and I need a damn car.
Thoughts?
Now, after about 8-9 months I've noticed some milky oil under my oil cap. I did a compression test and found the rear bank was all at 150 and the front bank was at 210.
I regretfully reused the old headbolts, and now I believe that they're the culprit. I purchased some new headbolts to put in, but I'm not sure if it'd be better to just put in another headgasket or just swap the old bolts for the new ones.
The leak is so minimal that I'm not even sure it is the headgasket. I don't want to ruin this new set of bolts only to find out that I should have just put another new headgasket in.
I have student teaching coming up and I need a damn car.
Thoughts?
#4
I didn't have the head pressure tested or anything like that. I probably should have had it resurfaced and checked for warpage. I guess I'm paying the price now for my negligence. Should I bite the bullet and put another gasket on or just try my luck with swapping the bolts? Time and money are just extremely tight and I'm really discouraged to be going through this again.
#6
Originally Posted by 7mJoe
I didn't have the head pressure tested or anything like that. I probably should have had it resurfaced and checked for warpage. I guess I'm paying the price now for my negligence. Should I bite the bullet and put another gasket on or just try my luck with swapping the bolts? Time and money are just extremely tight and I'm really discouraged to be going through this again.
#7
VG head bolts aren't stretch bolts and are reuseable.....read about standard practice of automotive repair or pay someone to do it correctly!
#8
Originally Posted by CMax03
VG head bolts aren't stretch bolts and are reuseable.....read about standard practice of automotive repair or pay someone to do it correctly!
#9
I dunno, I guess I'm dealing with a warped head or something. Looks like I'll be taking it apart again either way.
Thanks for the input gang.
#10
Originally Posted by 7mJoe
It's pretty hard to deviate from the FSM.
I dunno, I guess I'm dealing with a warped head or something. Looks like I'll be taking it apart again either way.
Thanks for the input gang.
#11
There's a trick which won't be nearly as accurate as using a true straight edge, but if you happen to have at least a general straight edge and some feeler gauges, you can, at the very least, get an idea of warpage.
#12
You deviated from the FSM when you didn't inspect your heads for straightness nor your block mating surfaces! As far as the head bolts torque sequence suggesting that they're stretch bolt...that's BS....these bolts and tightened gradually to add pressure/crush to the head gasket evenly....If they were stretch bolts the FSM would have told you to discard them...and most stretch bolts are installed with a nominal torque followed by some additional degreed angle tightening.... like 60 degrees or 180 degrees
Last edited by CMax03; 10-17-2012 at 06:41 PM.
#13
That's word-for-word the method stated in the FSM, Not trying to playing internet-king over here but it's just a good habit to replace head bolts, especially on 15+ year old car.
#14
Actually, I did that, which is part of the reason I didn't bother taking it to a machine shop.
#15
Originally Posted by 7mJoe
Actually, I did that, which is part of the reason I didn't bother taking it to a machine shop.
#16
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
raffivegas
6th Generation Classifieds (2004-2008)
0
08-23-2015 09:54 PM
98MaXeDouT
General Maxima Accessories (All Generations)
1
12-03-2007 11:05 AM
hawaii_maxxed
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
12
12-07-2006 08:19 AM