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Brakes sticking

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:43 AM
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Brakes sticking

My front driver brake is sticking, i changed the caliper and added new brake pads but its still sticking. Can anybody tell me what else to look for. Thank you John A.
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:21 AM
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you bleed the caliper?
stupid question but the caliper did come with a new torque member right?
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:59 AM
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yes Dany i bleeded the lines and caliper.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
you bleed the caliper?
stupid question but the caliper did come with a new torque member right?
........ and you did lubricate the sliding pins too? (the mounting bolts)

When is it sticking? - when you expect it to release and its thus overheating the disk/caliper/hub?

How do you know its sticking?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by LvR
........ and you did lubricate the sliding pins too? (the mounting bolts)

When is it sticking? - when you expect it to release and its thus overheating the disk/caliper/hub?

How do you know its sticking?
generally rebuilt/reman calipers that comes with a new torque member already have the pins pre-lubed. that's why i asked if the torque member was part of the set...if not then the pins are prob seized.

OP...this is what i'm talking about...did the new caliper come with this piece too?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by maxima94ever
yes Dany i bleeded the lines and caliper.
great...did it come with this piece too?




or did you just got this?
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:30 AM
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It didnt come with the torgue member but it brought new pins and i greased them.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:56 AM
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New caliper or just a unit off another vehicle?
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:28 PM
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new caliper with pins and brackets no torgue member.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by maxima94ever
new caliper with pins and brackets no torque member.


As Danny said earlier - these sliding pins on the member are most likely sticky/seized then - the bits under the rubber boots should move freely when working properly
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:39 AM
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I took it to a mechanic and he cant figure it out, im wondering if the master cylinder can stop working on just one line that the fluid doesnt go back to the resoiur, my master cylinder has four lines one for each wheel. Does anybdy know ? J.A.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by maxima94ever
I took it to a mechanic and he cant figure it out, im wondering if the master cylinder can stop working on just one line that the fluid doesnt go back to the resoiur, my master cylinder has four lines one for each wheel. Does anybdy know ? J.A.
If you have ABS on it then I guess its possible, but your mechanic should surely have been able to figure that already by himself since its the most basic of basic checks to do.

At the time of the brake "dragging" what happens if you undo the bleeder nipple on that wheel - does the "drag" go away then? .............. with lots of fluid spraying out from it?

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Old 05-23-2012, 08:50 AM
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I'd replace or clean that brake line, sounds like you have blockage.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:51 AM
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This happened to me many years ago in my old chevy truck. the stock brake line had collapsed internally and was acting as a check-valve with the brake fluid. I push on the pedal and it stops. I let go of the pedal, and fluid can't flow backwards due to the damage in the line. truck still stops.

replaced the rotor, caliper, and pads.. problem was still there. replaced the master cylinder. problem still there. finalyl broke down and replaced the $10 brake line. problem gone.

something to think about. Brake lines are relatively inexpensive, but get VERY expensive when they fail and you can't stop... if your car is 20 years old, it can't hurt to replace the lines, even if it's not the problem.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
This happened to me many years ago in my old chevy truck. the stock brake line had collapsed internally and was acting as a check-valve with the brake fluid. I push on the pedal and it stops. I let go of the pedal, and fluid can't flow backwards due to the damage in the line. truck still stops.

replaced the rotor, caliper, and pads.. problem was still there. replaced the master cylinder. problem still there. finalyl broke down and replaced the $10 brake line. problem gone.

something to think about. Brake lines are relatively inexpensive, but get VERY expensive when they fail and you can't stop... if your car is 20 years old, it can't hurt to replace the lines, even if it's not the problem.
+1
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:16 AM
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Thanks guys the mechanic thought the same think that the hose was colapsing so he changed it waiting to give long drive since its when it happens, hopely thats the problem. Thank you all. John A.
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:38 AM
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It was the brake line, gave it a long drive no more problems w/brakes. Thank you
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:42 AM
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good
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by shiloh51933
I'd replace or clean that brake line, sounds like you have blockage.
I thought that was your issue as i stated here.
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:28 PM
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The brake lines you are referring to are the ones in the wheel well. The rubber ones that are about maybe 4 inches right? Where can I find them?
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Old 07-27-2012, 04:38 PM
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Where can I find brakes lines for $10.00 a pop.
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by majordan
Where can I find brakes lines for $10.00 a pop.
Idk about $10. But you can find a decent set on ebay. Remember you pay for what you get. It all depends on how much of your life you wand to gamble with.
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:17 AM
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Idk?
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:20 PM
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Hell if you are really stumped on where to start try going to Andy's autosport.com. Theres been a couple of times I found legitamently good products reasonably priced. Doesn't hurt to try.
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