7mJoe

Alright. So. I just changed a rad hose and flushed my coolant system. I wouldn't call what was circulating coolant, but more along the lines of rusty water. I had a ton of what appeared to be metal particles floating around in my overflow, and on the bottom of my radiator. I put some fresh coolant in and proceeded to burp the system. I read that the VG is notoriously hard to burp.

Now I have a problem.

I turned my heater on full, and I'm no longer getting blisteringly hot air out of it. It's just lukewarm air. Is it possible I got a gnarly airbubble trapped deep within the recesses of the system? Or could it be something worse?

I'm only concerned because of all the rusty water and metal/dirt particles. Any suggestions for burping? Is this "air bleeder valve" located on the t-stat housing? Should I open that up?

T-Mon3y

Yea you should open the bleeder up with the engine running, but keep an eye on the engine temp gauge.

7mJoe

I think I sorted it out, ima keep an eye on it though. So the bleeder is on the t-stat housing? It's the mounting bracket bolt for the plug wires? Or is it located elsewhere?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

best way to burp the system is get the nose as high as possible (higher than those car ramps will get it)
the higher the rad cap versus the rear bumper, the better.

7mJoe

Will do. I'm going to derp it a little more tomorrow. I think I'm in the green now though. The rustyness of the old coolant has me a little edgy.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Just throw it onto your shoulder and gently pat its back

torqueymonster

iTrader: (3)

Just make sure to have a shop towel over your shoulder, too.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

The bleeder is in the right rear corner on top the plenum thermo bulb (you'll see the two fitting pointing downwards) near the fuel lines!

maxinout93

How come my bleeder doesnt have coolant flowing through it when I open it?