Upgrading Fuel Injector Connectors
09-04-2011, 02:48 PM
#43
Check out what I'm working on for the mean time....a 2002 Saturn Vue with a DOHC 3.0L V6 (Opel/GM) and a broken timing belt due to all the oil leaks etc and 100% Owner Neglect and AutoShop regret! Wow guys our engine are in a class all by themselves (VG, VE, VQ, VH, VK, etc) and this engine is a freaking joke as far as component placement!
09-04-2011, 04:12 PM
#44
Check out what I'm working on for the mean time....a 2002 Saturn Vue with a DOHC 3.0L V6 (Opel/GM) and a broken timing belt due to all the oil leaks etc and 100% Owner Neglect and AutoShop regret! Wow guys our engine are in a class all by themselves (VG, VE, VQ, VH, VK, etc) and this engine is a freaking joke as far as component placement!
09-04-2011, 09:52 PM
#45
I have both Heads installed with cams, cam seals, cam sprockets, exhaust manifolds, ECU, and timing tensioners.......I have to glue in all the seals on the valve covers, LIM, UIM, install the spark plugs, coil packs, engine mt, serpentine belt plug in allthe sensor/connectors and crank that bi+ch! I finished today with all the timing gear installed but not the belt.....pretty much just the intake system left (LIM + UIM).....
11-06-2011, 09:25 PM
#47
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Norcross, GA
Posts: 24
Thanks a ton for this thread, I'm in the process of doing this on my 89. One of the fuel injectors died on me a few days ago, and the connector practically disintegrated when I tried to get the plug unstuck from the corrosion. Figured it'd be a good idea to do the upgrade since I'll have the intake taken apart and be replacing the injectors anyways.
I found a nice 94 at a junkyard, but one of the allen bolts on the intake plenum stripped out so I've still got a bit of work if I'm going to be able to actually pull this off without waiting for another batch to hit the yard.
I found a nice 94 at a junkyard, but one of the allen bolts on the intake plenum stripped out so I've still got a bit of work if I'm going to be able to actually pull this off without waiting for another batch to hit the yard.
11-07-2011, 07:10 PM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Norcross, GA
Posts: 24
The nice one got mangled between then and now (somehow they physically broke the intake plenum...) but I pieced together parts from some other cars on the yard. Only problem is 2 of the injectors on the rails I got are bad, and a 3rd is a VE/VQ injector. Would it be better in the long run to just go ahead and replace all 6 with new ones, since the other 3 might fail in the near future anyways?
11-07-2011, 11:58 PM
#49
The nice one got mangled between then and now (somehow they physically broke the intake plenum...) but I pieced together parts from some other cars on the yard. Only problem is 2 of the injectors on the rails I got are bad, and a 3rd is a VE/VQ injector. Would it be better in the long run to just go ahead and replace all 6 with new ones, since the other 3 might fail in the near future anyways?
05-01-2012, 03:00 PM
#52
05-02-2012, 10:04 PM
#53
Maybe a Kevlar timing belt is what I'll need.....
http://www.importpartspro.com/poensustiivg.html
http://www.importpartspro.com/poensustiivg.html
05-02-2012, 10:39 PM
#54
Problem turned out being a hydraulic lifter that broke it's mushroom tappet and jammed my forward head's cam from rotating and sheared my timing belt cogs.....I'll more than likely replace all 12 new lifters with newer lifters since I idled them for about 5-10 minutes to bleed the air out of them since they weren't submerged in oil like I did when I originally installed them 5000 miles ago,....I actually had them stored upside down and the lack of letting them soak in oil for a day or two caused the premature failure!
05-03-2012, 09:09 AM
#55
It figure's that I have the off centered index slot injectors and everyone only has the centered index slot. Looks like I'm going to have to notch out the centered index slot to fit the connector onto the injector prongs.
09-30-2012, 03:19 AM
#56
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 116
Problem turned out being a hydraulic lifter that broke it's mushroom tappet and jammed my forward head's cam from rotating and sheared my timing belt cogs.....I'll more than likely replace all 12 new lifters with newer lifters since I idled them for about 5-10 minutes to bleed the air out of them since they weren't submerged in oil like I did when I originally installed them 5000 miles ago,....I actually had them stored upside down and the lack of letting them soak in oil for a day or two caused the premature failure!
I'm wondering if the failure was because the cam and lifters had no critical zinc, in that first initial start up. I always thought the lifters, if there was air in them, after a few minutes they would simply purge the air, but they would never do damage really.
Regarding Lube which might have been the culprit-I've heard from some engine guys, that its risky not using the camshaft assembly paste, if the engine is going to sit for some time, or it gets rotated before it is fired up on break in, then sits for a while, as the liquid primer (Comp Cams) that some people use (like me), can have a tendency to run off the lobes, because it's really light. Then, when operator goes to fire up engine, for that first critical start, the camshaft gets damaged immediately.
Did you check the cam lobes, if the ruined lifter damaged the camshaft? If you have a wiped lobe, its probably going to damage any new lifter you put in that position, which may warrant replacing the camshaft on that head too, I don't know.
Just some cam tips for you, regarding the VG.
09-30-2012, 05:43 PM
#57
Don't forget to pre-lube the cam and lifters with the ZDDP concentrate. There's a better one out there than the Comp Cams. The AC Delco EOS I have only been using on the regular oil changes after the break-in, since the concentration is too low for break-in. For me personally, I drizzled a whole container on the new camshaft and coated the whole lifter in the comp cams also. I didn't use the regular Moly assembly lube camshaft paste (although I probably should have), instead went for the Comp Cams.
I'm wondering if the failure was because the cam and lifters had no critical zinc, in that first initial start up. I always thought the lifters, if there was air in them, after a few minutes they would simply purge the air, but they would never do damage really.
Regarding Lube which might have been the culprit-I've heard from some engine guys, that its risky not using the camshaft assembly paste, if the engine is going to sit for some time, or it gets rotated before it is fired up on break in, then sits for a while, as the liquid primer (Comp Cams) that some people use (like me), can have a tendency to run off the lobes, because it's really light. Then, when operator goes to fire up engine, for that first critical start, the camshaft gets damaged immediately.
Did you check the cam lobes, if the ruined lifter damaged the camshaft? If you have a wiped lobe, its probably going to damage any new lifter you put in that position, which may warrant replacing the camshaft on that head too, I don't know.
Just some cam tips for you, regarding the VG.
I'm wondering if the failure was because the cam and lifters had no critical zinc, in that first initial start up. I always thought the lifters, if there was air in them, after a few minutes they would simply purge the air, but they would never do damage really.
Regarding Lube which might have been the culprit-I've heard from some engine guys, that its risky not using the camshaft assembly paste, if the engine is going to sit for some time, or it gets rotated before it is fired up on break in, then sits for a while, as the liquid primer (Comp Cams) that some people use (like me), can have a tendency to run off the lobes, because it's really light. Then, when operator goes to fire up engine, for that first critical start, the camshaft gets damaged immediately.
Did you check the cam lobes, if the ruined lifter damaged the camshaft? If you have a wiped lobe, its probably going to damage any new lifter you put in that position, which may warrant replacing the camshaft on that head too, I don't know.
Just some cam tips for you, regarding the VG.
10-02-2012, 02:14 PM
#58
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 116
I'm curious, if the timing belt snaps on our 93-94 VG engine (or it slipped in your case), is there immediate damage to the valves, as in they smack the piston heads? Meaning valve replacement at the least, or even worse off, valve guide replacement?
Also part 2 of this question, as some one here may have experience. Is there a way to replace the intake and exhaust valve stem oil seals WITHOUT removing the cylinder heads? I've heard of some method of connecting compressed air to the spark plug hole, which will hold the valve up, but how do you get the springs to compress to remove the keepers?
Also part 2 of this question, as some one here may have experience. Is there a way to replace the intake and exhaust valve stem oil seals WITHOUT removing the cylinder heads? I've heard of some method of connecting compressed air to the spark plug hole, which will hold the valve up, but how do you get the springs to compress to remove the keepers?
Last edited by Porky; 10-02-2012 at 02:25 PM.
10-02-2012, 11:09 PM
#60
To the first part of your question they usually snap. His slipped once because the stud for the tensioner broke. This time around was because his cam broke (rare).
As for the second question I didn't know that it was possible for one to remove them without taking off the head. If it hasn't been done and only talked about then that leans more towards it can't be done.
As for the second question I didn't know that it was possible for one to remove them without taking off the head. If it hasn't been done and only talked about then that leans more towards it can't be done.
10-03-2012, 08:01 AM
#61
I'm curious, if the timing belt snaps on our 93-94 VG engine (or it slipped in your case), is there immediate damage to the valves, as in they smack the piston heads? Meaning valve replacement at the least, or even worse off, valve guide replacement?
Also part 2 of this question, as some one here may have experience. Is there a way to replace the intake and exhaust valve stem oil seals WITHOUT removing the cylinder heads? I've heard of some method of connecting compressed air to the spark plug hole, which will hold the valve up, but how do you get the springs to compress to remove the keepers?
Also part 2 of this question, as some one here may have experience. Is there a way to replace the intake and exhaust valve stem oil seals WITHOUT removing the cylinder heads? I've heard of some method of connecting compressed air to the spark plug hole, which will hold the valve up, but how do you get the springs to compress to remove the keepers?
10-03-2012, 07:13 PM
#62
Originally Posted by CMax03
Usually it will bend about 2-4 valves per head but sometimes people got lucky and no damage was seen.....I'll remove my head cause I'll probably install 1 mm oversize valves and Jwt hi rpm springs....
10-06-2012, 09:15 AM
#63
sohe belt teeth (4"-5") was sheared off due to a lifter breaking and kamming the froont head cam which not only broke damaged my timing belt but also broke my Isky Cam sprocket face with the dowel pin....I'll need to purchase another set of Isky cams cause I don't think I can replace 1, they're a set....
12-03-2012, 07:42 PM
#65
Danny......I used the existing LIM, but had to install the later design adapter intake plate, later design fuel rail, later design injectors, upgraded injector cap hardware (allen head or hex head bolts), later model improved connectors subharness on fwd bank, splice in connectors on rear bank.....
04-25-2014, 09:29 PM
#66
The cause was a lifter mushroom broke jammed the front bank cam, snapped the dowel pin out of the cam @ the cam sprocket and ate the teeth off my timing belt for about 6" and screwed up all mty beautiful work....it's almost 3 years and I finally ready to ressurrect my beast..with even more mods....
04-27-2014, 02:51 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: El Barrio N.Y.C
Posts: 333
04-28-2014, 03:15 PM
#73
Not a bad deal for side feeds, where are you getting them?
I had been looking for a good deal on larger flow injectors as well. Since top feed injectors are more common I thought I could find a modern injector with good flow rates for a reasonable price. The best deal I've found is the new Bosch EV14 injectors. A set of 6 is $339 for 550cc or 700cc from Deatschwerks. (Note the universal line has 3 different injector lengths, the "compact" 40mm injectors are the cheapest, and the larger ones may not fit) http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...-0065-6-detail
For a fuel rail you should be able to use almost any VQ35 fuel rail. I tried the stock one off a 350z and the injectors line up perfectly. You just need to make two brackets per rail to bolt it into your factory bracket hole. Alternatively, an aftermarket rail for a VQ35 would be a little more but easier to adapter to your return style fuel system vs modern VQ return less.
Just another option for those looking for cheaper injectors
I had been looking for a good deal on larger flow injectors as well. Since top feed injectors are more common I thought I could find a modern injector with good flow rates for a reasonable price. The best deal I've found is the new Bosch EV14 injectors. A set of 6 is $339 for 550cc or 700cc from Deatschwerks. (Note the universal line has 3 different injector lengths, the "compact" 40mm injectors are the cheapest, and the larger ones may not fit) http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...-0065-6-detail
For a fuel rail you should be able to use almost any VQ35 fuel rail. I tried the stock one off a 350z and the injectors line up perfectly. You just need to make two brackets per rail to bolt it into your factory bracket hole. Alternatively, an aftermarket rail for a VQ35 would be a little more but easier to adapter to your return style fuel system vs modern VQ return less.
Just another option for those looking for cheaper injectors
04-28-2014, 07:03 PM
#74
Five-o have the injectors. seems like their ebay listing is a little cheaper than their store.
i tried to get some info on them but i see a lot of mixed opinions. for the price i'm going to give it a shot and see. they gotta be better than the 370cc old style that i'm running now.
i tried to get some info on them but i see a lot of mixed opinions. for the price i'm going to give it a shot and see. they gotta be better than the 370cc old style that i'm running now.
10-06-2015, 10:23 AM
#75
Danny......I used the existing LIM, but had to install the later design adapter intake plate, later design fuel rail, later design injectors, upgraded injector cap hardware (allen head or hex head bolts), later model improved connectors subharness on fwd bank, splice in connectors on rear bank.....
I realize im bumping an old thread but im curious if yourself or anyone would happen to know if there is any difference between the LIM between the 89-92 and the 93-94. Im just finishing up doing this upgrade but noticed the 89-92 injectors are longer than the 93-94 injectors so im wondering how much difference it will make being the 93-94 injectors wont go down as far into the LIM as the 89-92 injectors im wondering if this will actually maybe cause a slight loss in performance being the 93-94 injectors might partially spray into the walls/ports of the LIM but im not 100% because the tips are also different between the 89-92 and the 93-94 injectors. Im curious to know CMax if you happened to notice this or how the performance was using the existing LIM?
Last edited by ac max 92; 10-06-2015 at 10:26 AM.
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