jeremeep

earlier today i was driving and my brakes started squeeking really bad. they were going metal to metal, so i went and bought new pads right away.

when me and a few friends went to put the new breaks in we didnt want to have to bleed them so we just used a c-clamp to put the piston back in place, we got it just right and fit the brake pads in with no problems.

so when i go to take it for a drive i barely push on the brake it would be fine but when i stopped completely they grind like no other.

could this be my rotors or my calipers?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

did you do fronts and rears, or just front pads?
(I ask because the rears require a different procedure to open them up)

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

If you changed both front and back then your rotors would be your next suspect.

elusivemax93

Sounds to me he only did fronts and didn't take his rotors to be laithed. Putting new pads on rotors that havent been machined smooth is a common thing most diyers do. Don't consider that a smooth machined surface will be better then a ridge of groves. Also easily known he didn't do rear as he "c clamp" pressed the piston back in. Those who have taken apart the rear brake assembly know it takes a special tool to get the caliper to retract back in.

dj tes

iTrader: (1)

i need to do my rear brakes also. what is the name of the special tool needed for the rear calipers and can i get it at a local parts store (autozone, murray's, advanced, etc.)?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

needle nose pliers
the caliper screws back in (weird, but that's the way it works).
take the pliers, spread them out, put the tips in the groves, and spin it clockwise (in fact, the fsm shows the use of needle nose pliers).

dj tes

iTrader: (1)

thanks ben

jeremeep

we only did the front brakes, my rears are fine.
i guess im just gonna take my driver side wheel off and go through it again.

jeremeep

oh and also, i took it to les schwab and had a friend that works there take it for a drive and he said its not the rotors, he said something else is grinding when the brakes clamp.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Lmao! Thats exactly what I was gonna say. Thats what I use. Just be careful not to puncture that boot. Oh and the tool is available at AZ or Orielly's. You have to put down a deposit though.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Make sure all of your hardware is tightened down.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Man the tool is $8.00 at Autozone and it works a lot better than any needle nose pliers and we all know what a pain in the arsehole the rear calipers can be.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

strange thing that this is also happening to me today too, as i come to a stop my front brakes started to grind. My rotors were replaced in February and the pads were replaced 2 weeks ago, I think the suspect is the cheap autozone pads that i have on right now... gonna take a look tm

elusivemax93

Lmfao ain't brake pads grinding it's called your wheel bearing gone bad. Save up money and buy new hubs wheel bearings and four wheel seals and replace them. Don't believe me take apart your brake system and try to wiggle the wheel hub without the axle nut on the cv shaft if it moves your bearings are either going out if not already toasted. Should know i just replaced hubs and bearings. Ask any dealership well knowledged technician and they will say the same. Most these dimwits on org are just hobbiest with no automotive technical knowledged of how things really work.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Ever notice how they just wanna mod their car even though it's falling apart . Prevalence of the oxymoron I say.

elusivemax93

I don't know anything everyone seems to think for the most part even though i went to college for automotive technology lmfao. That's why i don't ask questions on here i just call my friends in the automotive field who can better answer questions dimwits here can't answer. James and a bit of others aren't dimwits but most others are that aren't even technically inclined.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

well its not like a grinding noise but a ruff vibration during lite braking,there is zero noise during cursing n turning

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Are you still mad about that detonation thing...take a deep breath and let it go, we luv ya dude. Dimwit...genius...god. Three stages of advancement. Ya have to go through one to get to the next.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i thought when a wheel bearing goes bad, the screeching gets louder with acceleration? OP said that it starts when he slightly presses on the brake which leads me to think its not the wheel bearing...

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

saying a sentence like that butchering the grammar is a fail

jeremeep

agreed.

i simply posted this thread so i can get some help, not be called a dimwit because i dont have any knowledge about cars.

so i drove my car earlier today and that grinding sound went away for a good 3 hours, then i took it back out and it continued, just not as loud.