RayRey21

ok...2 weeks ago my check engine light turned on.....15 minutes later it shut off......same thing happened today!!....car ran fine....well it ran as it usually does.......ok....no change...what'd ya think?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I think it stored a trouble code..

RayRey21

what do ya mean trouble code???? sorry rookie here......

thanks

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

When the engine light illuminates,it is letting you know that a ecu controlled part/sensor has malfunctioned...

The ecu stores these codes in it's memory,you can access the codes yourself,or have a qualiified mechanic do it for you..

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Here is the autozone repair sticky link,it has directions on how to access the codes stored in the ecu..

http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=396706

1.click the link
2.click 1994
3.click nissan/datsun
4.click maxima
5.click driveability&emission controls
6.over to right,click trouble codes
7.below that,click reading reading codes or general info to learn more


Location of ecu..


Behind this panel on the passenger side



When you get to the section of the autozone site,their will be several different diagnostic modes to choose from,if you have the 2 mode system,use MODE II

If you have the 5 mode system,use MODE III

Mode II

SELF DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS (IGNITION ON)

In this mode, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) can be retrieved from the ECM. The DTC is indicated by the flashing sequence from the MIL or the red LED on the ECM.

1.Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the vehicle.

2.Turn the ECM diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise for two seconds, then turn it back fully counterclockwise.

3.Observe the red LED on the ECM or CEL light for stored codes.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mode III, proceed as follows:

Thoroughly warm the engine before proceeding. With the engine OFF, turn the ignition switch ON.

Turn the diagnostic switch located on the side of the ECM ON by either flipping the switch to the ON position or using a screwdriver, turn the switch fully clockwise.

Turn the diagnostic switch OFF or fully counterclockwise as soon as the inspection lamps flash three times.

The self-diagnostic system is now in Mode III.

When the battery is disconnected or self-diagnostic Mode IV is selected after using Mode III, all stored codes will be cleared. However if the ignition key is turned OFF and then the procedure is followed to enter Mode IV directly, the stored codes will not be cleared.

The codes will now be displayed by the red and green inspection lamps flashing. The red lamp will flash first and the green lamp will follow. The red lamp is the tens and the green lamp is the units, that is, the red lamp flashes once and the green lamp flashes twice, this would indicate a Code 12.

RayRey21

the next obvious question is how do I check the code??...or what do I need to check it........

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Huh?

Did you not read any of that i just posted?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's not how i do it. I turn the screw clockwise, wait for it to blink 3 times, that puts it in mode III, which is the error checking mode. ours is a 5-mode system.. i don't like the way AZ.com words it. when the screw is all the way clockwise, that's when you are letting it select a mode, and once it blinks as many times as the number of the mode you wish to be in (1-5), you turn it back the other way. Mode 1 checks for o2 sensor funcionality. Mode 2 checks for mixture based in input from your o2 sensor (rich/lean/OK). Mode 3 reveals error codes. Mode 4 tests switches such as TPS and starter. Mode 5 is a mystery to me??

Anyhow, just turn it clockwise, let it go like this .......BLIIIIINK..BLIIIIIINK...................... ...BLINK.BLINK.BLINK.... then turn it counterclockwise and wait a few seconds. red blinks are tens, green blinks are ones. red-red...green-green-green-green is a 24. Then check to see on the list of error codes what your error code is.

Mine was a 33, the o2 sensor. My car used to get 16.5 MPG combined and 18.5MPG highway... and the plugs got black between oil changes. I replaced the sensor to no avail, then months later after the code stayed in the system (and gas mileage still stunk) I noticed a broken ground wire on the harness side of the connector, after testing the continuity for continuity. I spliced some wire into the sensor's ground wire (white on the sensor for me.. black on the harness side), grounded it to one of the cat-converter's heatshield bolts... car jumped up to 21.4 MPG combined, and 27.8MPG highway.

edit: Wayne would my 90GXE ECU have a different procedure from a 94 VG, or a VE?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I didn't see he had a gxe I will added the Mode III instructions to my post..


IIRC,some of them have the 5 mode system,maybe all of them..

gapboi210

this all seems kinda complicated. I guess I am spoiled I have access to a new Snap-On scanner for all makes and models.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

not ALL, but most.
I have access to one too, but it doesn't read older subarus for example.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

OK for those of you with a 5-mode system... including the guy who started this thread...

warm up your car, shut it off, wait 15 seconds, then do exactly as I do in the following video:

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2370.flv

if you get a 55 like I did, that means you are error-free. If you get something else.... then you have something to fix.

but anyhow, my previous error code 33 led me to do this http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...0sensor%20fix/ (yes the harness is covered in PS fluid...... i'm hoping to fix that soon)

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Good info..

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Hey is there supposed to be a little **** on the selector?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

No .

92 Max

No, You use a small screwdriver to turn the selector.

oldbitty

Can u tell me where the ECU is on a 1990 Maxima? TKS

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://forums.maxima.org/4871521-post5.html

Reizy

iTrader: (48)

Déjà vu?

Or is it some sort of glitch in the Matrix?

lalonaruto

some thing is about to go wrong.

91nissanmaxima

ok! I know that this is totally off subject! But I need help! I don't know what else to do!! I have a 1991 nissan maxima gxe! and I was riding in comfort mode today. I got to a red light and started to pull off from the green light and soon as I started to pull off my car started to jerk and shut off on me!! Now its done this before then my alternator went bad! I've replaced the alternator and now my hydraulics don't work and the interior lights have never worked since i've had the car and my radio seems to go in and out!!! I don't know what to do somebody please help me!!

Contact me at pgrant1922@yahoo.com PLEASE HELP

91nissanmaxima

OK! And another thing I watched the video and do I have to buy that test thing for the check engine light and my cruise control doesn't work after changing the alternator also!! AGAIN! PLEASE HELP! I'M RUNNING OUT OF OPTIONS

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if you watched the video that i made then you should already know you don't need to buy anything to pull ECU codes

and if you know it's 'totally off topic' then don't make a post. pretty simple. if you actually would slow down and read the thread titles instead of making posts in threads that have nothing to do with your problem... you'd notice we have a 'noobies, ask your question here' thread.

ujm

OK, here is where I am at.

A while back I had the check engine light come on and the car ran rough. I tried to run the diagnostics but for the life of me, never seemed to figure it out.

I ended up leaving the selector switch in the position I thought it was in originally, about half way.

The check engine light came on far more frequently, car ran rough, finally it stayed on far more than it was ever off.

Today, I figured it out and realized that it was far too simple and just not easy, or maybe I am just, well, never mind - it was not bad.

I did "think" i saw a 51 code once, I do know I saw the 55 code a few times, and that one is OK as it means there are no issues.

When I was done, I returned the selector counterclockwise to the stop, and so far, all seems to be good, no check engine light, yet.

Thank you all for your assistance, your help is much appreciated!

ujm

errrr, check engine light came back on.....

If it is a 51, there must be a good way to check the injectors.

Pull one injector wire at a time or ???

7mJoe

Good code pulling info!

Ujm, yes, that is one way to check for bad injectors. I don't know of any others, but I'm sure if there is, someone will chime in.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

The way I did to get a visual was pull the rail from the lower IM with the injectors still installed and plugged up. Unplug spark plugs and get either a piece of card board or a rag and place it under the injectors. Either crank the engine or just turn the key to the on position to prime the fuel pump. You should have a small spot from the spray. If its a large spot that means the solenoid is probably bad. There you have it. If someone cranks it/ turns the key for u then you can stand there and get the visual urself.

ujm

I've run out of time - Took it to a shop, it is the #3 injector, total cost to replace, $480.00.

ujm

Here is the bill - kind of interesting, I could of saved some bucks doing it myself, that is for sure!