maxinout93

My front engine mount is bad, the car shakes like crazy sometimes at speeds of 75 plus, and then at times when i hit the gas, I can feel it jump up. Ive never done mounts before, But i have been reading the other forums to know to loosen the bolts then support the engine. I was gonna get a replacement from the junkyard and fill it with window weld. How long does it take to dry if I do this method? I believe one of my tranny mounts are bad also. But I dont know which one, and I cant remember if there are 2 or three tranny mounts, there were alot of tranny mounts at the junkyard, so i can get those easily, its just most of the front engine mounts were still attached to the most of the engines. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

YearOfTheGus

iTrader: (2)

Rockauto.com has front motor mounts for $25 (VG) and $40 (VE). If you have a VG it might be easier to just buy a new one. Most shops should only charge 1 hour of labor if you don't want to do the work yourself.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

don't buy mounts from a junkyard, unless they're obviously brand new. otherwise they're 20 years old and just as worn out as yours.

maxinout93

thanks for the advice, i thought they said the ones from autozone were useless, but if rock auto has them then ill get them from there. My mechanic said he would only charge me $40 for the front mount install.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Autozone mounts ARE useless I'd probably pick up all 4 from rockauto and touch them up with 3M window weld and just let them sit for 2-3 days.

I had a new but cheap mount on my max vs the other 3 being OEM and better brand and still ended up getting all torn up so I burned it up and filled it completely with window weld and so far its been a week and it feels great, shouldn't be much different just reinforcing some cheap ones. Maybe someone can chime in on that

robsterzallan`

i f you wana save money, just lift the motor up a little, take the 2 bolts out of the mounts to the engine, the 4 cross meber bolts, and drop down your mounts and fill um with window weld. it helps a lot. id suggest doin the tranny mounts after the engine mounts are back in. i did mine at the same time and the whole moter and tranny shifted. it sucked going together. and theres 2 tranny mounts.

maxinout93

Im just replacing the front engine mount at the moment, SO do I still need to drop the whole cross member. IIRC I can put a strong block of wood under the oil pan with a jack to support the engine while im doing the mounts right?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Every single one of my OEM mounts were completely busted (to the extent that they were all in pieces). Nonetheless, I just repaired/filled them all with urethane

Anyway, you'll still need to drop the crossmember, if not completely you'll still have to loosen the rear bolts/nuts so the front can dip down to give you room.

Support the engine under the oil pan with a block of wood, yes. Although ideally you don't want to be working UNDER there with just a jack. Use a jackstand if possible. Otherwise if you must use just a jack, try to offset yourself some (i.e., keep your body out from under it, so if it drops it just crushes/mutilates your hands/arms )

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I bought new and filled them all with window weld!!!!!!

maxinout93

lol yeah im going to use 2 jack stands to support both sides of the car, cant afford to loose any part of me lol. Is it a simple repair/ replacement? Im just wondering because it looks complicated.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

I have tried filling motor mounts, as well as melting out the oem rubber and replacing it with window weld, and many different polyurethanes. The best design by far (as far as holding up to abuse without creating any additional vibration at all and preventing the large amount of engine movement allowed by stock motor mounts) that I have come up with is creating a larger center pin and filling the 1/2" gap left with polyurethane. I don't have a picture of a completed one handy but here is a picture of one before filling.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

so do you think that larger washer design will provide more stability? I think you really didn't need to weld the washer to the spacer cause now it's gonna be hard to fill completely...cause the washer is in the way now. I would have shaved the spacer down and filled and compressed the poly together more with the spacer, 2 large washers a bolt & nut.....

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Its not just washers welded to either side of the pin, those are caps to the larger pipe that makes the overall diameter of the center pin much larger. Since so much less rubber is used, there is much less possible movement and that makes a massive difference it movement. The result is virtually no torque steer, wheel hop or engine movement. Removing the trans with these mounts doesn't require bracing the engine as these prevent the motor from leaning to either side. Here is a picture of the center pin by itself.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Ok I see now,......Kinda like a semi solid mount, cause you'll have some poly but not much....

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

Yeah these after market motor mounts from autozone are Doo-Doo!! I just returned the front one after only 6 months and barely driving her for 4 of those months. Does anybody know if there's a thread in here showing pics/directions of them filling there motor mounts with polyurethane or whatever else seems to be working??

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Theres a guy in the 4th gen community who had write up I followed. I believe there is someone here that did a write up.You'll have to search "Poly Mounts".

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Heres the link to how to do it. This is the one I followed and the same stuff I used.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-mounts.html

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

Yeah this is great. I wish I coulda did this before I installed the front mount the first time. I don't have a week or two days to wait since i'm using my Maxima everyday. I'm planning on doing the other mounts. Maybe I'll just but another front mount from Rockauto.com or something. I know this Autozone replacement they gave me is only going to fail again after a few months.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Yeah. Just get another mount junk mount while you ride around on an ok one. Fill the junk one with poly. Let it cure then swap.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a plan brother.

Porky

How long would you guys say the 3M window weld (I take it this is the same stuff you refer to as poly) can stay in service before it would need to be burned out. Does it just flake off over time, and fall out?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Last for a while. I think its more of an alternative. But I prefer the resin instead.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

From what I heard guys are using Devcon polyurethane flexane 80 or 90.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I've done 3 cars with 3M window weld and they've seen 5 years on a Tercel I filled all the Mounts on! My 3G is 3 years itself! no flaking nor peeling yet! Prep it good and it's bonded forever!

Porky

Thanks, I'm doing this. Hopefully this will help those studs from snapping. God that OEM exhaust manifold is expensive. It's ridiculous that they don't make the LH one aftermarket.

Porky

Going with the window weld, it's 25 bucks (10.5 fl oz) here in Canada. Flexane is 75! and I think it's 2 component. There are 2 others available in the same price range, scotch weld or Loctite. I'll go with the one you guys have tested - 3M.

Is one tube enough to do 8 mounts (2 x VG+RE4F02A)

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Get 3 just in case. If thats more than needed return the rest.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

The window weld works that good. I gotta do mine. 2 busted mani studs and Res pipe.