When Purchasing a High Mileage VE...

-ReLLiK- · 10-06-2009, 04:10 PM

What should be some important things to look for/ask about? Ive been searching high and low for a lower mileage VE 5sp, but the best i could come by was 169k.

Also, are the VE engines any more reliable than the VG? After finding my VG with 126k miles and only replacing the alternator since, I dont know if purchasing a higher mileage maxima would be a good idea or not...

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 04:37 PM

The VTCs is what everybody throws out, but I think aside from the embarrassment you might experience if you don't ground them, it's really not an issue. I think the general consensus 10 years ago was that it was considered to be a major reliability problem with the VE, but I think nowadays the thinking on that is different. It's mostly just a nuisance, and I think the track-record of grounding them proves that it's not really a reliability issue.

(However, there HAVE been a few exploding VTCs that took out the timing chains/covers, but those seem to be isolated cases of letting clattering VTCs go far too long with no attention.)

Personally, one of my VE's has just under 200k now and I haven't had one problem with it mechanically ever. Aside from things like water pump, etc. I've never had to touch the engine. The engine even has super low compression in one cylinder (was like that when I got it) and still put down 180 whp a few years ago, gets good gas mileage, runs great, etc. VTC's have been grounded for 6 years now. I run synthetic in it and the valvetrain looks brand new

My "new" VE has 160k and runs like it's brand new. Judging by the valvetrain, it doesn't even look like the previous owner took very good care of it. I recently replaced a rear injector and the knock sensor, and it's incredibly smooth and quiet, plus has no VTC tick, etc.

I think Matt got well over 220k out of his original VE even while flogging it constantly at genuine track events, etc.

I really personally feel the VE is a reliable engine. I think the VG gets that reputation simply from volume (and deservingly so), but I think reports that the VE is a finicky one-off type engine are highly exaggerated.

Really, when purchasing a "high mileage" VE it's probably not any different than purchasing a high mileage car of any type. It's all up to how the previous owner maintained it. Other than that, and aside from the VTCs, the front coil packs are known to crack/cause a misfire, knock sensors go bad, and the VE seems to have a little more trouble passing emissions. VE injectors seem to be more a bit more reliable than VG injectors. When VE's get misfires, it seems some people have trouble correcting it, but it's not clear if it's an issue with the VE or an issue with people not properly going about fixing it (personally I tend to believe it's usually the latter). There's probably a bunch more but that's all I can think of at the moment

Heck, you might want to pick up that VE 5. You may not find another

-ReLLiK- · 10-06-2009, 05:55 PM

Dam bro thanks for that info, that really helped. Is it true that when grounding VTCs, you have to run premium fuel? And yea im from Ohio (i currently go to school at Lincoln Tech in indianapolis) and neither place requires emissions tests.

heres link to the posting. theres a couple probs here and there, but it doesnt seem too bad to me. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1401868161.html

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ReLLiK-

Dam bro thanks for that info, that really helped. Is it true that when grounding VTCs, you have to run premium fuel? And yea im from Ohio (i currently go to school at Lincoln Tech in indianapolis) and neither place requires emissions tests.

heres link to the posting. theres a couple probs here and there, but it doesnt seem too bad to me. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1401868161.html

No, you have to run premium fuel when you advance the timing but not when you ground the VTC's. When grounding the VTC's you literally just ground them and forget about them

I tried to view the link but it's been removed. Hopefully it's not sold out from under you?

-ReLLiK- · 10-06-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James92SE

No, you have to run premium fuel when you advance the timing but not when you ground the VTC's. When grounding the VTC's you literally just ground them and forget about them

I tried to view the link but it's been removed. Hopefully it's not sold out from under you?

Oh ok. wow lol. Well what causes the VTCs to tick in the first place?

And its still there when I clicked. here ill try again. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1401868161.html

*CapedCadaver* · 10-06-2009, 06:18 PM

i thought on a VE it was essentially required to run premium all the time

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ReLLiK-

Oh ok. wow lol. Well what causes the VTCs to tick in the first place?

And its still there when I clicked. here ill try again. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1401868161.html

There's basically a spring inside that fatigues over time and the ticking/clacking noise is actually caused by the spring.

When I click on your link it says it's been deleted by the author, but if I go straight to Columbus Craigslist I can find it that way. He said in the ad he'll basically remove it when it's sold so I wonder if it's just sold and he's in the process of deleting it (since it takes longer to be removed from the main section)

edit - I figured out what he did. He deleted his old post and just now posted a new one so it'd be at the top of the listings

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

i thought on a VE it was essentially required to run premium all the time

Nah, it's just preferred

I've been running 87 octane in my original VE for about a year now. Only difference I've noticed is it gets slightly worse gas mileage, but not bad enough that it financially makes it worth while to run premium.

*CapedCadaver* · 10-06-2009, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James92SE

Nah, it's just preferred

I've been running 87 octane in my original VE for about a year now. Only difference I've noticed is it gets slightly worse gas mileage, but not bad enough that it financially makes it worth while to run premium.

i'd like to see what the dyno charts would say about 87 vs 93.

-ReLLiK- · 10-06-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James92SE

There's basically a spring inside that fatigues over time and the ticking/clacking noise is actually caused by the spring.

When I click on your link it says it's been deleted by the author, but if I go straight to Columbus Craigslist I can find it that way. He said in the ad he'll basically remove it when it's sold so I wonder if it's just sold and he's in the process of deleting it (since it takes longer to be removed from the main section)

edit - I figured out what he did. He deleted his old post and just now posted a new one so it'd be at the top of the listings

Yea because I called the guy like a half hour ago or so and he told me he was actually about to lower the price

. But what do you think? is it worth it??

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

i'd like to see what the dyno charts would say about 87 vs 93.

Me too. In my gas engines class, my teacher said that premium fuel is more required for engines with higher compressions, like V8s or on forced induction applications. So whats the compression ratio on the VEs?

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ReLLiK-

Yea because I called the guy like a half hour ago or so and he told me he was actually about to lower the price

. But what do you think? is it worth it??

Sure sounds like it to me for $900 unless it has some unlisted catastrophic problem. $900 is a more than good deal. Since he was about to lower it anyway, offer him $800 and see what he says. Either way, $900 is a great deal.

Heck, even if the engine didn't run or something crazy, for a few hundred less you'd still have a fair price. I recently paid $1400 for my "new" VE 5 with ~160k.

Keep in mind though, I'm one of the biggest pro-VE/pro-keeping old cars guys on here. Some other people on here would probably tell you that $900 for a near 20 year old car that is gonna need maintenance blahh blah blah blah isn't worth it. But it's all relative. Plus, I'm right.

But either way, I don't think anybody would disagree that $900 is a great deal barring some catastrophic problem. Even if it needs a fair amount of work, it's still a fair deal

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

i'd like to see what the dyno charts would say about 87 vs 93.

I'm sure you'd see a difference. I was running 93 when I dyno'd.

Keep in mind, there's many parts of the country that can't even get 93 octane, so there's an abundance of VE's going around that have been running 87 octane all their lives. Heck, there's parts of the country that have 85 octane even. So there's probably a good many VE's/3rd gens going around with 85 octane

I ran 93 exclusively until about a year ago when I just got sick of paying sometimes near 4 bucks for it. It's less expensive now but still near 3 bucks for 93 vs a bit under $2.50 for 87

*CapedCadaver* · 10-06-2009, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ReLLiK-

Me too. In my gas engines class, my teacher said that premium fuel is more required for engines with higher compressions, like V8s or on forced induction applications. So whats the compression ratio on the VEs?

v8 doesn't automatically mean you need premium... the compression ratio, air/fuel ratio, and ignition timing have alot to do with the engine's tendency to ping/knock, so you remedy that with higher octane. so does climate (more likely to ping when it's hot out than when it's cool out)

VG is 9:1, VE is 10:1 btw

1992maximase30 · 10-06-2009, 06:58 PM

^^^you said one of your cylinder's has low compression? you still have the car?

*James92SE* · 10-06-2009, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1992maximase30

^^^you said one of your cylinder's has low compression? you still have the car?

Yes, my original black VE that I bought from flyry on here 7 (?) years ago has low compression in one cylinder and I still have it and drive it. About a year after I got it we did a compression test on it just for fun and discovered it. Driving it you'd never know the difference. It's the one that put down 180whp, has just under 200k, and that I now run 87 octane in.

1992maximase30 · 10-06-2009, 07:12 PM

my old ve had 50 psi in cylinder 5. once i replaced injectors. did knock sensor bypass replaced the motor mount you could hardly feel the miss.

and it seemed that cylinder "worked" fully, above 1500rpms.

-ReLLiK- · 10-06-2009, 07:24 PM

VEs come stock with 190hp, correct?

1992maximase30 · 10-06-2009, 07:33 PM

maxinout93 · 10-07-2009, 12:06 AM

heck If you ever need a transmission for a VE Auto, they are not hard to find, and are plentiful. Its finding a VG transmission thats a challenge. Wish I would have gotten a VE!

-ReLLiK- · 10-08-2009, 04:12 PM

Ok so here's a curveball for you guys... Which is better to turbo: VG? Or VE?

*CapedCadaver* · 10-08-2009, 04:30 PM

VG can take more boost since it's got lower compression, plus the z31 turbo manifolds bolt up to the engine. With a VE, everything is custom.

*VEvolution* · 10-14-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James92SE

Nah, it's just preferred

I've been running 87 octane in my original VE for about a year now. Only difference I've noticed is it gets slightly worse gas mileage, but not bad enough that it financially makes it worth while to run premium.

Im pretty sure the FSM requires 91, but since theres no 91 around here, 93 is the obvious choice.