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Old 10-05-2009, 01:15 AM   #1
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Automatic TRansmission Removal Procedure?

I am almost ready to get my car back on the road, but I was wondering how difficult is it to remove the transmission myself along with some help? The cheapest prices for tranny removal so far have been about $250, with the highest at about $700 just for removal alone! I dont want to have to spend extra cash if I dont have to, although $250 is not a bad price. Still shopping around for either a low mileage used one or one that is rebuilt with a warranty that wont put a hole in my pocket, and also still considering the local pull a part that has them for $80 bucks. If anyone has any suggestions that can help out it would be great. Also where is the governor and the tranny pump located?
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:31 AM   #2
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the pump is behind the TC.
governor is on the top under a black cap looking thing.

general steps...(not in any particular order)
unbolt the TC from the fly wheel
remove tranny mounts
disconnect all linkage
disconnect all electrical harness
unbolt tranny from engine
slide tranny back and down

IMO the worst part is lowering the tranny w/o hitting yourself in the head.
you also need to lift the car high enough to clear the tranny.

is it difficult? no...but it's not an oil change.
there is some heavy lifting and pushing involved and i highly recommend getting another person or two to help you.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanNY View Post
the pump is behind the TC.
governor is on the top under a black cap looking thing.

general steps...(not in any particular order)
unbolt the TC from the fly wheel
remove tranny mounts
disconnect all linkage
disconnect all electrical harness
unbolt tranny from engine
slide tranny back and down

IMO the worst part is lowering the tranny w/o hitting yourself in the head.
you also need to lift the car high enough to clear the tranny.

is it difficult? no...but it's not an oil change.
there is some heavy lifting and pushing involved and i highly recommend getting another person or two to help you.
don't forget draining and unhooking fluid cooler lines and yea a tranny jack is a big help but it also means you have to lift the car an extra 8" to compensate for the compressed height of the jack, which I didn't do, which caused problems. I had to chuck-norris kick the tranny off the jack which sent the t/c flying off and fluid everywhere... not fun. next time i pulled one it went smoothly tho (nc90gxe's 5spd swap)
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1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress!
2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09
2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa View Post
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman View Post
how much would it cost to resleeve?

how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:02 AM   #4
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oh yeah...the lines...
i know it sucks but get that front nose as high as you can get it. it'll make things a little easier.
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Old 10-11-2009, 05:57 AM   #5
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I have a question, the haynes manual says to mark the relationship of the torque converter to the drive plate or flywheel or something like that, it also states to do the same thing to the passenger side cv axle carrier bearing. Just wondering if this is really necessary?
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxinout93 View Post
I have a question, the haynes manual says to mark the relationship of the torque converter to the drive plate or flywheel or something like that, it also states to do the same thing to the passenger side cv axle carrier bearing. Just wondering if this is really necessary?
tc might be... when i removed my brother's tranny on his a/t camry, i just took everything off and put it back on whichever way.... and now the engine vibrates alot, esp in reverse. so it's quite possible.
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PieceOut.FallToPeaces New to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!!
1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress!
2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z
1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09
2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa View Post
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman View Post
how much would it cost to resleeve?

how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:28 AM   #7
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2
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