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What should I put the 2 settings to for this 2nd unknown used tranny I'm putting in next week, considering I'm doing city driving, mostly stop & go traffic, and city highway driving, but all on level ground most of the time. This used tranny will be in for about a yr.
I used to keep the OD button in the off position if i am doing mostly city driving at speeds below 55mph. That keeps the tranny from shifting into fourth gear and overdrive repeatedly, especially if youve got someone driving slow in front of you, I would keep it off. If you are going above 45 and 55 then I would suggest you turn the OD on like riding at highway speeds for a long period of time.
Update: I looked on car part.com and found some transmissions at really reasonable prices and not too far from where I live as I can go and pick one up next week. I will be in the process of taking out the tranny thats in the car now so when I get the other one it will be ready to install, and I can have the Max back on the road again. I just have one question. In the haynes manual section of how to remove the transmission, it has a section that says you have to "MARK THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO THE DRIVE PLATE BEFORE REMOVAL. Also it says to do the same thing for the passenger side cv joint carrier bearing( the thing that that has three screws that have to come off in order to remove the pass. side cv axle. Is that really necessary?? I am kinda new to tranny removal so please help.
Neither are necessary. Before installation, you can measure the TQ to bellhousing flange and compare to the other side if you need to. It's mentioned in my notes. That's only if you tip the bellhousing on the tranny jack in the opposite direction - the tranny will naturally fall towards the heavy side (wheel well) so the TQ shouldn't move if you adj the tranny jack saddle thing properly. Make sure to find 2 short 2X4 wood or suitable wood to place the trans on when you store it, and also plug the holes with some plastic bag or something so creepy crawlies don't go in.
Oh one thing I forgot - If I were you I would wipe Anti-Seize inside that CV carrier bearing bracket, to prevent any future seizing. Mine was seized so badly I had to cut the RH Drive axle out of the car, then remove it outside on a vice with major heat.
I was wondering if when the tranny dies, would it be impossible to move the car? Im asking this because I want to move the car backwards. My friends and I tried to push the car backwards yesterday and the car would not move in either gear it would only creep forward a little bit in drive, tried to give it gas and the car wont revv over 2000 rpms. It seems as if the parking mechanism is locked as it wont budge at all!
I don't know but if you really get stuck you can remove the axles then it will roll, and you need to remove them anyways, but it is a bit of work to put the knuckles back on just to roll it.
I don't know but if you really get stuck you can remove the axles then it will roll, and you need to remove them anyways, but it is a bit of work to put the knuckles back on just to roll it.
So what finally happened Maxinout - did you replace it or pay someone for the overhaul?
Curious the end cost.
Well to pay someone for the overhaul would cost more than what im willing to spend on the car. Because there are alot of 3rd gens for sale around here for pretty cheap, most less than $1000. But Ive put alot of money into mine to just let it go for $500 with a bad tranny, or to the salvage yard. So I have been searching for a tranny, and Ive had some luck so far, so All I have to do is start taking mine out once I get the other tranny home. I was wondering though, would the tranny fit in an average car trunk?? I have to drive like 3 hours to get it. The 2 cars are a mazda 626 4 cylinder, or a 2000 nissan maxima, that I plan to put it in. I dont want to overload the cars.
theres some trannys on ebay lol they can possibly ship it to your mechanic, youd probably should ask the mechanic in advance if he can put it on for u that way he can accept the package.
__________________ Maxima FTW------>
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It's so easy to put it in, just do it yourself and don't pay anyone. If you need my help I can assist you,just email me. If you really need me to I can go outside and measure the dimensions for you to see if it will go in the trunk. It did fit in the trunk of the Maxima.
It's so easy to put it in, just do it yourself and don't pay anyone. If you need my help I can assist you,just email me. If you really need me to I can go outside and measure the dimensions for you to see if it will go in the trunk. It did fit in the trunk of the Maxima.
Thanks I think I will try to put it in myself, as I am buying more tools to do the job, I think if I do have to travel to get the tranny, I will more than likely put it the trunk of the 99 mazda 626 4 cylinder, or a 2000 nissan maxima. Will be doing it in about a week or so.
Well I found a few good deals on a tranny. So far I have stripped the car down to where the transmission bolts are accesseble, and have managed to loosen about three of them from the top. I will probaly pay someone to do the rest of the job as it seems a little complicated in a sense as far as taking the mounts loose and the crossmember. Hope to get it rolling soon!
Pictures of the mounts if they'll help. Don't need to touch the crossmember mounts. As well don't loosen any mounts if nothing is supporting the tranny.
Ohh Ok I see what you are saying! Im gonna drain the fluid and take the axles out today, those pictures are giving me some ideas of painting my intake manifold lol. I miss my car though, taking the bus and catching rides to work is starting to get annoying! I will go out and take some pictures of my progress and post them up soon.
those bolts on the top rear transmission mount seem like a B#### to remove. I dont have any air tools or access to them, I know they may make the job easier, but would just regular tools get the job accomplished? I thought I saw someone post a list of tool designed for transmission removal.
You don't need to remove that top part of the mount, only if you were to recondition it / paint it etc.....
And even then, you remove it once the transmission is removed from the car. do you see the studs hanging down, there are two of them in the photo, for that rear mount. Those bolt into the bottom piece of the mount that isn't in my photo. To separate that rear mount when you do the removal, all you do is remove the 3 X M10 cap screws that are visible head on (that attach the lower part of the mount to the trans) by looking through the wheel well when you remove the splash panel. then you remove those 2 X M10 hex nuts from those dangling studs in my photo.
The front transmission mount, you would separate it so it looks like in my photo with the top part still attached to the chassis. You separate it at the mid point via 3 X M10 cap screws. Once you lower the tranny then you can unbolt it from the front of the tranny.
I dont have any air tools or access to them, I know they may make the job easier, but would just regular tools get the job accomplished?
It can be done the manual way with just a breaker bar but you have to be REALLY careful. Sometimes the breaker bar can cause damage like it killed the weld anchor on my transverse link gusset that is inside the chassis. If I were you I would leave that top part of the mount on the chassis. If you break the weld anchor, your are adding on many hrs if not days to your job.
Problem with the breaker bar is if it's seized, when you put torque on it, it bends the weld anchor inside, so as soon as you detect it's seized, stop with the breaker bar. With the impact wrench, it spins it almost stationary, so it can help minimize the damage in my opinion.
I would just leave it alone, as those M12 cap screws for that anchor are Super Fine Thread, and they strip even easier.
Maxima FTW------>
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