Replacing fuel injectors
#1
Replacing fuel injectors
So I hoped it would never happen to me, but I think an injector got stuck open. So last friday I was heading to the gas station and gunned it at a light. The car suddenly started running rough. I figured it was just running out of gas. I filled up and started her up and was doing the same thing. Well I took it home and been cleaning corroded connectors and plugs hoping to fix it. No improvement. Today I started her up and revved it up a bit then pulled the spark plugs. Cylinder 3 it wet with fuel. Unplug the injector and repeat, still wet.
My question is: Is there anyway to un-stick the injector or do I replace it?
I know not to buy remanufactured injector(heard the horror stories), but what brand should I get? I know internet auto supply has Oem($115) and aftermarket($66). Does it matter that much?
My question is: Is there anyway to un-stick the injector or do I replace it?
I know not to buy remanufactured injector(heard the horror stories), but what brand should I get? I know internet auto supply has Oem($115) and aftermarket($66). Does it matter that much?
#2
So I hoped it would never happen to me, but I think an injector got stuck open. So last friday I was heading to the gas station and gunned it at a light. The car suddenly started running rough. I figured it was just running out of gas. I filled up and started her up and was doing the same thing. Well I took it home and been cleaning corroded connectors and plugs hoping to fix it. No improvement. Today I started her up and revved it up a bit then pulled the spark plugs. Cylinder 3 it wet with fuel. Unplug the injector and repeat, still wet.
My question is: Is there anyway to un-stick the injector or do I replace it?
I know not to buy remanufactured injector(heard the horror stories), but what brand should I get? I know internet auto supply has Oem($115) and aftermarket($66). Does it matter that much?
My question is: Is there anyway to un-stick the injector or do I replace it?
I know not to buy remanufactured injector(heard the horror stories), but what brand should I get? I know internet auto supply has Oem($115) and aftermarket($66). Does it matter that much?
new OEM ($115 or whatever) -> OEM pulled from a running parts car -> JY oem injector -> reman
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 02-25-2009 at 05:22 PM.
#3
Hmmm...3rd gen injectors usually don't stick open, they usually stick closed..
Have you ever replaced any of the injectors in this car?
How about tune up? (plug wires/plugs/etc.)
Did you ohm test the suspect injector??
you may have a bad plug or plug wire on that cylinder.
Have you ever replaced any of the injectors in this car?
How about tune up? (plug wires/plugs/etc.)
Did you ohm test the suspect injector??
you may have a bad plug or plug wire on that cylinder.
#4
if you're sure you are getting spark on that cylinder, and if you aren't leaking past the o-ring, check the ohm resistance of the injector... if it's less than 10, or higher than 14, you probably just gotta replace that one. that aftermarket one only showed up for 89... all the 89-92 VG injectors are the same, but only the $115 one was listed for the 90. I'll let brian tell you what the deal is with that particular $66 one. excluding that, the order of preference is:
new OEM ($115 or whatever) -> OEM pulled from a running parts car -> JY oem injector -> reman
new OEM ($115 or whatever) -> OEM pulled from a running parts car -> JY oem injector -> reman
Standard has not been an issue in the past, but most of the time it is bosch in the box anyhow.
There was/is a company that made those early VG injectors "new" but they were worse than any reman out there, I sold 1 set of them, got them back as defects along with a replacement set. Ended up upgrading to the Bosch OEM injector and problem was solved. I will never sell that brand again, after the first bad set I pulled them from my catalog.
oh, and the price was wrong on them
Last edited by internetautomar; 02-25-2009 at 05:51 PM.
#5
wow it just went up $40. I guess I shouldn't have said anything. What brand were the POS new injectors?
I will ohm it in the morning.
I have not replaced any injectors yet.
I've had the car about a year, bought it with 114k miles on in.
I will ohm it in the morning.
I have not replaced any injectors yet.
I've had the car about a year, bought it with 114k miles on in.
Last edited by Cinnamint; 02-25-2009 at 06:29 PM.
#6
the price on both bumped because parts pricing fluctuates constantly, which drives me nuts because I never know when it will change and that makes keeping my sites pricing up to date very hard. which is another part of the reason that I have the normal "Prices subject to change without notice" up there as well
#7
too bad you didn't know for sure whether or not the injector on your car is dead! you could have bought that ish before he changed it.... for some reason that was terribly amusing to me
#8
#9
o and don't do that thing that you do i know how you are
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 02-25-2009 at 08:11 PM.
#10
0 ohms isn't a broken coil, it's a shorted coil. an open coil would read the same as when the probes aren't touching anything (my screen just says "1" on the left side... actual measurements are on the right side of the screen).. 0.0 ohms would be like touching the 2 tips of the multimeter together... so electricity would pass through the coil, just that somehow the path of resistance was GREALY shortened. If my camera didn't have a dead battery i'd show you.
o and don't do that thing that you do i know how you are
o and don't do that thing that you do i know how you are
#11
#13
#17
#19
hmm.. well if you know what you're doing, you can take a spare distributor, if you have one, and spin it over with the key in ON to pretend like the engine is running, and visually inspect the firing strength of the injectors. but you have to be really careful in how you ground the distributor, or this might be the last post you ever read on the Org....
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 02-26-2009 at 08:58 PM.
#21
#22
heh i was just kidding dude. i wouldn't mind driving, if my car were running OK.. but i'm on 4cyl right now.. guess what.. injectors. got some coming next week to get her back on all 6. my MPG went from 30hwy to 23hwy just from one dead injector... prolly worse on 2 dead.
#23
heh i was just kidding dude. i wouldn't mind driving, if my car were running OK.. but i'm on 4cyl right now.. guess what.. injectors. got some coming next week to get her back on all 6. my MPG went from 30hwy to 23hwy just from one dead injector... prolly worse on 2 dead.
losing compression to or car just running ****ty?
#24
i never checked compression, but the reason you get bad MPG whem misfiring is that the 02 sensor interprets the dead cylinder (which is just pushing fresh air) as a lean condition for the whole engine, so it says "lean?! oh crap.. let's add more fuel to compensate" and in reality you end up running really rich, which wastes gas. then when you're on 4cyl (#1 and #4 dead, for me) the car is just abysmally slow. Like... I could floor it in 1st gear after launching, and it would rev as though you were in 2nd, not 1st.
#25
i never checked compression, but the reason you get bad MPG whem misfiring is that the 02 sensor interprets the dead cylinder (which is just pushing fresh air) as a lean condition for the whole engine, so it says "lean?! oh crap.. let's add more fuel to compensate" and in reality you end up running really rich, which wastes gas. then when you're on 4cyl (#1 and #4 dead, for me) the car is just abysmally slow. Like... I could floor it in 1st gear after launching, and it would rev as though you were in 2nd, not 1st.
O i c what your sayin so out maxima's have the injectors that give each cylinder fuel
#26
yea, one injector per cylinder (multiport fuel injection) unlike Greeny's truck, which has one BIG injector that supplies fuel to all cylinders (throttle body injection). so i have 2 cylinders that aren't firing, because they aren't getting fuel.
#27
Lemme fix that for you...
#28
so does your car have that little blup,blup,blup hesitation everytime its ready to shift
#29
well my car's a m/t, so i decide when it's time to shift.... but essentially, my car just runs like sh*t all the time.... it vibrates violently, makes no power at all, and the exhaust note sounds sickly...... of course i know what the problem is.. just waiting for the injectors i bought to get here so i can put the in.
#32
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
Posts: 1,096
So, I have the same problem as some of you on here. Two of my injectors are not firing. I just did a full tune-up, so it's not the plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Unfortunately I don't have money for new injectors, but I do have a used JY intake manifold with a full set of injectors in the fuel rail. My question is how do I test the injectors? Can they be tested on the car while it is not running or in the JY fuel rail without being connected to anything? By running an Ohm test do you mean using an electric tester and touching one node to each prong in the connector?
I'm thinking of just swapping over the entire fuel rail with injectors from the JY intake to my car but I'm not sure if they are in better or worse shape than the (working)ones I have in there. Plus, not having yet taken off the connectors on my Max I wonder if the red top square injectors on the JY intake are compatible with my harness.
Also, does using only OEM O-rings really make such a difference? Does everyone have bad experience with parts-store O-rings?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Mrkanda
I'm thinking of just swapping over the entire fuel rail with injectors from the JY intake to my car but I'm not sure if they are in better or worse shape than the (working)ones I have in there. Plus, not having yet taken off the connectors on my Max I wonder if the red top square injectors on the JY intake are compatible with my harness.
Also, does using only OEM O-rings really make such a difference? Does everyone have bad experience with parts-store O-rings?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Mrkanda
Last edited by mrkanda; 03-04-2009 at 05:28 AM.
#34
old = 89-92, new = 93-94 VG, all VE, and all VQ30DE.
so if you switch styles, you just have to get a front subharness from a 93-94 VG maxima, and the rear injector plugs from any compatible car listed above. The rails and o-rings are specific to the injector style, so you can't just mix and match the 2 styles in the same rail
now... the red-top ones you have... did they come from a VE or a VG? Cuz the VE fuel rail won't fit a VG cuz of the pipe routing.. so you'd have to put them in a 93-94VG fuel rail.
#35
so i just got done pulling my 89-92 style injectors off my car... it was worse than i thought:
1: 42.8 ohms
2: 12.0 ohms
3: 12.1 ohms
4: no reading (broken coil)
5: 29.5 ohms
6: 12.0 ohms
so my car was basically randomly alternating between having 3, 4, and 5 working cylinders. Which, given the fact that i had to basically floor it in 1st gear just to get to 20mph, isn't really a surprising discovery. the weird thing is that at Goon's house (october 2008, so, just 5 months ago), we double-checked all the resistance readings and all of them were at 12.4 ohms i think.. so i was terribly surprised to see that three of them failed in 5 months! i'm definitely not blaming Goon tho.. there's no way anyone could have known that was going to happen.. i guess i just got really unlucky. But hopefully i can put these red ones in and not have to touch them again for a good long while. Thankfully all the injectors I got from AJcool2 are at a very nice 10.9 ohms +/- 0.1ohm, not to mention the VE/VQ style injectors seem to have better reliability.
1: 42.8 ohms
2: 12.0 ohms
3: 12.1 ohms
4: no reading (broken coil)
5: 29.5 ohms
6: 12.0 ohms
so my car was basically randomly alternating between having 3, 4, and 5 working cylinders. Which, given the fact that i had to basically floor it in 1st gear just to get to 20mph, isn't really a surprising discovery. the weird thing is that at Goon's house (october 2008, so, just 5 months ago), we double-checked all the resistance readings and all of them were at 12.4 ohms i think.. so i was terribly surprised to see that three of them failed in 5 months! i'm definitely not blaming Goon tho.. there's no way anyone could have known that was going to happen.. i guess i just got really unlucky. But hopefully i can put these red ones in and not have to touch them again for a good long while. Thankfully all the injectors I got from AJcool2 are at a very nice 10.9 ohms +/- 0.1ohm, not to mention the VE/VQ style injectors seem to have better reliability.
#36
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
Posts: 1,096
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...ORG%20members/ that is the difference in connector types brian mentioned.
old = 89-92, new = 93-94 VG, all VE, and all VQ30DE.
so if you switch styles, you just have to get a front subharness from a 93-94 VG maxima, and the rear injector plugs from any compatible car listed above. The rails and o-rings are specific to the injector style, so you can't just mix and match the 2 styles in the same rail
now... the red-top ones you have... did they come from a VE or a VG? Cuz the VE fuel rail won't fit a VG cuz of the pipe routing.. so you'd have to put them in a 93-94VG fuel rail.
old = 89-92, new = 93-94 VG, all VE, and all VQ30DE.
so if you switch styles, you just have to get a front subharness from a 93-94 VG maxima, and the rear injector plugs from any compatible car listed above. The rails and o-rings are specific to the injector style, so you can't just mix and match the 2 styles in the same rail
now... the red-top ones you have... did they come from a VE or a VG? Cuz the VE fuel rail won't fit a VG cuz of the pipe routing.. so you'd have to put them in a 93-94VG fuel rail.
BTW, does everyone recommend OEM O-Rings instead of Aftermarket? Do Aftermarket O-Rings always leak?
Thanks.
#37
well my car's a m/t, so i decide when it's time to shift.... but essentially, my car just runs like sh*t all the time.... it vibrates violently, makes no power at all, and the exhaust note sounds sickly...... of course i know what the problem is.. just waiting for the injectors i bought to get here so i can put the in.
I see what your saying I gotta wait till next week to do my one injector but them things is expensive good thing they all dont ruin at once
#38
Thanks for the pic. I do see the different types. The ones on my 89 GXE are the Pink Top old type square looking ones. The ones I got from the JY fuel rail are also from a VG and look to be the same shape although they are red instead of pink. I assume that they may have been from a newer 89-92 VG with just a different color. I have yet to test them for Ohm resistance. Hopefully they are all or mostly good. And I assume that if they are the same type as my originals that I can just reuse them in the same fuel rail, right?
BTW, does everyone recommend OEM O-Rings instead of Aftermarket? Do Aftermarket O-Rings always leak?
Thanks.
BTW, does everyone recommend OEM O-Rings instead of Aftermarket? Do Aftermarket O-Rings always leak?
Thanks.
the top pic is the newer VE/VQ30DE/93+VG style injectors, the bottom pic is the old metal-clip style VG injectors. The long pintle-cap (bottom pic) injectors will only work in the 89-92 rail, and the new style injectors have a different rail. I had the new style on my car to start with (cuz someone put a 94 motor in my car way before i bought it), but then switched back to the old style... and now i'm switching back to the new style.
#39
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...ORG%20members/ that is the difference in connector types brian mentioned.
old = 89-92, new = 93-94 VG, all VE, and all VQ30DE.
so if you switch styles, you just have to get a front subharness from a 93-94 VG maxima, and the rear injector plugs from any compatible car listed above. The rails and o-rings are specific to the injector style, so you can't just mix and match the 2 styles in the same rail
now... the red-top ones you have... did they come from a VE or a VG? Cuz the VE fuel rail won't fit a VG cuz of the pipe routing.. so you'd have to put them in a 93-94VG fuel rail.
old = 89-92, new = 93-94 VG, all VE, and all VQ30DE.
so if you switch styles, you just have to get a front subharness from a 93-94 VG maxima, and the rear injector plugs from any compatible car listed above. The rails and o-rings are specific to the injector style, so you can't just mix and match the 2 styles in the same rail
now... the red-top ones you have... did they come from a VE or a VG? Cuz the VE fuel rail won't fit a VG cuz of the pipe routing.. so you'd have to put them in a 93-94VG fuel rail.
#40