chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

Here goes my build thread.. hope this is the right forum

So for the past 7 odd years there's been a 91 GXE base model sitting in our driveway not being driven because we have other cars and never really got around to getting rid of it. Well this past year (late 08) i've decided to finally put some tlc in this sucker along with a few buddies of mine. She originally came from TX (bankston nissan) and went from there to california, to upstate new york and then back to california.

After tinkering with it a bit me and my buds have decided that it'd be a great project for us to learn on and branch out our automotive interests as the auto shop program really doesn't do much at our school. She's rough and money is tight but we're trying out best to do as much as we can with what we have.

Problems (probably more than this, but to our knowledge..):
- Flex section broken on y-pipe (common)
- rear driver quarter has been hit and shoddily repaired, need to be cut and weld a new piece in
- car won't start without a jump (fixed by replacing fusible link)
- very minor signs of rust behind front wheels and on control arms and engine crossmember
- windshield wiper fluid pump leaks (common)
- cracked driver side corner light and cracked passenger side headlight
- old cracked window seals (especially rear windshield)
- e-brake doesn't work
- window regulators busted (common)
- belts are starting to crack on the inner side.(getting replaced soon, already have new ones)

Currently under way are an automatic to manual transmission swap and following that a rear drum -> disc swap.
We've pulled three trannys so far at the junkyards to get misc parts that were missing from our swap and we've got to go back to get a few more parts before we can finish doing the clutch hydraulic lines (need the bracket for the block).

our future goals include
- fixing all the problems hopefully
- taking care of the rust so that it is not an issue later (even though its california)
- replacing broken parts (warpspeed y to a new exhaust, new headlight/corner light, etc etc)
- new suspension (still trying to muster enough $ for Greeny's springs)
- 17" wheels so that i can clear...
- z32 big brake kit
- battery relocation to the trunk
- cleaning up the engine bay (Polishing things and deleting unnecessary amenities)

i'm sure theres more on our list that i'm forgetting but thats more than enough for us to look at. there is really no time frame on this car but i'd like to see some major progress over the next couple of months and when I get back into a real job during June i'll have enough money to make some big changes.

heres some pics of what we have to work with:

after manual tranny in..


i'll take more pics when the weather gets better but it's been raining cats and dogs lately for the past few weeks.

thanks for reading..

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

nice to hear she's getting back on the road. good luck. these are fairly easy cars to work on (aside from timing belt: DO THIS SOON!!!)

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! The timing belt was replaced at 80k (forgot to list this, along with water pump and other things). This thread is also to help me keep a log of what i need / what i have done thus far.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

ah, glad to see that you are taking an intiative on fixing her. i went throught the same thing that you are going through with school not being helpful in the automotive learning dept. over the 9 1/2 years that i have owned this car i have pretty much done everything on my own. but you know what im proud to have done it and not some mechanic that will rip you off for jobs that need to be done on our cars.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Just because it's doodoo brown doesn't mean it's a TURD gen. Please stop calling our cars that. It's disrespectful.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Timing belts can seem like a daunting task at first, but it's really not all that bad once you've done it a few times. The last time I tore it down to the belt (had the tensioner too tight from when I replaced it a few days before) I completed the whole job with hand tools in less than 3 hours...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just sayin' haha. i dunno, i've used the term myself several times.. no intent of disrespect tho. it's nice to see so many people doing 5spd swaps lately tho. i've been very in-demand lately (hell i'm even diong nc90gxe's car this weekend as long as we can find a shifter for him)

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

That's a seriously rare color. With a drop and wheels, it would look pretty nice.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

There's a HUGE difference in people trying to turn a 20 yr old car into a rice/race car and between referring to the entire generation as turds.
one is a figure of speech. The other is degrading. Note the difference.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Get it done guys...You'll be an addict B4 you finish! What I mean by that is your mod list is gonna grow a little larger than it is now!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i never read much more into the phrase "turd gen" than a goofy mispronunciation of the word "third" i know all the VQ guys like to make fun of 3g's by calling them turds as an attempt to be spiteful and mean.. somewhat of an inferiority complex i guess. They can only wish their cars were as easy to work on as ours are.. it just sucks our cars were too old by the time the tuning scene sprung up for any parts to be available for them.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

That's the point. It's a degrading term. Stop using it. It's an insult.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

err should i adjust my profile?

AM_BlackMax

iTrader: (1)

Goodluck with your future endeavors

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

thats funny because its the same exact case with the F bodies, the 98-02 LS1 4th gens are "God" and the 82-92 3rd gens are looked down upon, even the LT1 at times

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

LT1 was only in the 4th gen.
Funny thing is, the 4th gen wouldn't exist w/o the 3rd gen.

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

Honestly if there is such a big problem with using "turd gen" then I won't use it anymore. didn't think it would cause this commotion. Updates coming this weekend,been real busy with school lately. Thanks for the positive response.. really looking forward to this!

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I'm the only one that seems to have a problem with it. Everyone else just likes to argue like high schoolers.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I felt like I was married to my 3rd. I wouldn't want ppl calling my wife a turd. Even though I killed her... There was still love


Aside from that, I just want to emphasize on the t-belt. Do it first.

Maxteca

iTrader: (1)

I think the headlight I have is a pass side it looks brand new and I also have a set of motor mounts that are brand new if you want to buy any of the parts let me know. And good luck with the build.

traxtar944

iTrader: (12)

heh..... he said "turd".



I love my turd gen.

Gunther

/whoring up thread

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

The rain pretty much prevented us from doing much of anything this weekend. Still trying to see how the clutch hydraulics are going to be hooked up. Matt linked me up to technafit so i took a look and it seems like they have a kit for the line. I'm going to just go straight from the clutch master cyl to the slave cyl, any suggestions?

Thanks,
mike

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's how mine is (i used the OEM hardline from master cylinder to 'block thingy' except instead of the 'block thingy' i ran a blehmco SS line directly from the hardline from the slave cylinder). It's quick, direct, and possibly bit stiffer of a pedal than stock since the lines don't stretch.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

What he said.
Take the extra few minutes and remove the block and that big loop of tubing between the master and slave cylinder.
The replacement clutch line will screw right into the hard line coming out of the master cylinder once you remove the block.
I just don't remember if you have enough line to do it. forgot how I did all that on mine- it's been a while.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

as long as his flexible line is as long as the blehmco piece, he can just connect them with slack to spare.

here's mine, before i put it on (OEM hardline, Blehmco SS line)

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

Heres where we are today.(spring break woohoo!)
2nd gen maxima wheel (SE i think?) and 4 speed shift **** off an old civic

my buddy nick finishing off the brake pedal

done


But i need some help finishing this up. For the clutch electronic sensors how do i wire the top connector in series with the smaller brake pedal connector? Pics would be helpful. I saw a pic of them in Capedcadver's album on photobucket but it didn't make it clear for me enough so I'm still not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated on finishing the clutch pedal wiring.

Thanks guys.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

strip back the wire wrap around the brake pedal cruise switch harness, and use a long needle to pop one connector out and transpose it with one in the clutch pedal switch connector. then the 2 loose ends, just splice them together. that way current travels in series through both switches and onto the CC control unit. doesn't matter what wire colors go where - just completing a circuit.

i'll see if nc90gxe can get any pics of it, or i will take some next time i see him.

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

So if i understand that correctly, basically we will have one wire going to the 12v steady supply (on the top clutch connector), one connecting the two connectors like a bridge, and one that does not need to be moved (on the small brake pedal connector).

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

um... here's a graphic representation of it. can't get it wrong with this

before you rewire it, wires 1 and 2 are hooked to the brake switch harness, and 3 and 4 are on the clutch switch harness. using the method i talked about with a needle to push the pin retainers to get the pins out, swap wires 1 and 3 as seen. then splice wires 3 and 4 together. leave ample slack in the wires. and that's all there is to it. this is how i did mine and nc90gxe's, and it's been working flawlessly for over a year.