rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Hello guys, This morning I start my Maxima and the I put it on R to move out of my parking spot and when I release the brake pedal I notice a loud noise.

Then I put the car on D and moved out of my parking and drive it a little and the noise happens only if I release the brake pedal but not all the way out, if I'm braking about 30% the noise shuts down completely, but about 10-20% the noise is less but still noticeable, also at higher speeds (+40mph) after been driving for a few minutes the noise dissapear even if I slow down into a parking lot the noise is gone, but then I turn off the car for 15-20min then drive it and the noise is back.

I tried to pay attention and it seems to come from my rear wheels, it's hard to describe the noise, I would like to say it sound like hissing but it's more like scratching something, but why when the brake is released? I was thinking my caliper pads need replacing, but would be making the noise when I brake and not when i release the brakes.

I took the max to a brake inspection about 2 years ago and they told me the pads still had half life on them, and I never replace or move anything related to the brakes so far, the was not driven from jan 2008 - august 2008 so I don't know if it's time to do something about it, I guess it is because this noise for sure means something.

Could you please let me know where can I start checking before going into a shop, Thanks!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

personally i'd just jack the back end up and take the wheels off and do some looking around. look at both sides of the rotor for anything strange, remove the caliper and check that the slidepins are still easy to move, take the pads off and look to see what condition the pads, and just check for anything that might be scraping the rotor or perhaps even the inside of the wheel (tho that would be a long shot).

burhan92SE

check ur pads if they evenly worn out if they r not then check ur rotors if they r even on both sides...if they r gud too then u have a bad caliper...AND if ur caliper's slidepins r evenly moving and ur caliper piston is moving in and out too then u have to go more deeper and check ur bearing and stuff...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

i have to agree, sounds like your pads aren't moving away front the rotor completely. The noise stops when you press the brake because it is holding the pad to the rotor more completely

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Well, yesterday a coworker said I will need new pads, a neighbor told me the same thing, unfortunately I have no jack stands to check that, I only have ramps which for this particular case are useless.

The noise is getting louder and now happens all the time as long as the wheels are moving, but particularly from the driver rear wheel, I've bought this car on 2004 and since then I never made a brake pads replacemente, and I don't know how long the previous owner had this pads, so I think maybe it's reasonable to believe I would need new pads.

So I'm thinking going into a shop for the "Free brake inspection" but before to go there I would like to ask a few questions...

If I really need new pads, which one are good for our cars?, I rather bought them myself and take them to a shop for installation if they tell me I really need them.

I don't think I can afford a brake system upgrade but just for consideration, if I would like to get a better response on my brakes, what should I do? I know some like drilled rotors, some don't, what calipers? what pads? nothing specific, just if you know any info would be great to know a little better.

Also what's the average price on labor for replacing the pads?
Is there any other things I should keep in mind before going into a shop?

Brakes are (for me) a very sensitive area from the car, they mean accident or no accident so that's why I don't want to do this job myself, I have no experience on that area and I rather do it professionally with warranty and everything.

Thanks for your help!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

dude...
$20 for a set of stands.
brakes are just another thing. learn to do them, and set yourself free of paying massive $$$ for a shop.
if you haven't gotten the fsm, check the general maxima forum for the link. download it, and read.
any questions you have along the way, you can ask here.

you have an SE... that means disks on all four corners. they are cake to replace.couple of bolts, a little elbow grease, here and there, and you are done.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if you have a scissor jack (the kind with the screw in the middle) then just jack up the car by that one wheel and take that wheel off, and take the stuff apart. Don't necessarily listen to what your neighbors say. They're great for a backyard BBQ and whatnot... maybe not the best when it comes to giving car advice. There's alot of people I've met that will give you all kinds of advice about cars, but don't know jack squat about what they're talking about, and i don't think Cali is any different. Think of it this way.. it would sure suck to just assume they're right, only to find out your pads were fine and that you actually had a dragging caliper.

That's why it's important that you inspect the stuff yourself. So even if you have to borrow a scissor jack cuz all you have a hydraulic one (for lifting only.. not for keeping the car up) then get ahold of one whatever way is necessary. Then just take that one wheel off, and look at stuff, unhook the caliper to check the pads, make sure the slidepins slide easily, etc etc. You said yourself, brakes are a very sensitive area of the car. Gotta make sure everything is in good working order before blindly replacing parts based on someone else's suggestion.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Well, I don't mean to blindly believe what they are saying, but I just thought it would make sense since it's almost 5 years and never replace a brake pad, are they meant to last that long?

You are right about one thing, I should inspect it myself before anything else, specially from what I've learned with the shops in the past, but if I mention the brakes are a sensitive area of the car is because I don't want to mess it up because I have no idea what I'm doing...

I remember one friend was replacing his brake pads and he did a mess with brake fluid and then his brakes were "spongy" and he had to take his car to a shop where they told him he got air on the brake lines because he did not purge the lines correctly....

That was way before I have this car and I just remember he was upset with all that mess.

I mention this because every time I think about brakes I remember his situation, I know I already have some experience working with other areas of the car and if I get stuck I have you guys for any questions, but I keep wondering what I'm gonna do when I take out that wheel, I don't know what to look for, how to measure or compare if my pads are ok...

I'll follow the advice, I have the FSM and I'll read it and try to understand as much as I can, besides that if you could guide me what I should do... in the meanwhile I'll try to borrow jack stands, Thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

after 5 years, yea it might just be time for new pads.. after removing the wheel, there's 2 12mm headed bolts that hold the caliper on, and they facing away from you. remove the bottom one and swing the caliper up to access the pads.

when you are retracting the caliper, you actually can get a tool from autozone that has pegs on it so you can spin the piston back in without risking tearin the boot. you can do it with needle nose pliers too, but the block tool is safer if it's your first time. it's like a cube with pegs on all the corners, and square holes that a ratchet extension will fit into (3" extension is fine)

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if your pads are 5 years old, they HAVE to be replaced. pads aren't designed to last that long.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

also, do not worry about getting air in your system; you won't be doing anything that will cause that. at least, I don't remember needing to bleed the brakes on my car.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

You're probably right about pads, but I've had the same brake shoes on my car for almost 6 years and 100,000 miles. They still have plenty of life left. Sooner or later the drums will be scrapped for discs tho...I has disc swap parts!

Garf

iTrader: (1)

... check your e brake while you're in there.....?

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I know you are going to kill me because you always encourage me to do it myself and I highly appreciate that but after removing the wheels I noticed the rotors had some damage so it was not going to be just the pads, so I did not even remove the caliper, I just took it to the nearest shop to replace rotors and new pads, they charge $280 total, 2 rotors, ceramic brake pads and labor, I know it's expensive compared to do it myself but I feel safer this way, they give me 2 year-24k warranty so it's not going to be like the last time I got screwed. BTW it was the rear axle.

I know they overcharge because they told me also I need new shocks, they quote $680 for all 4 Monroe sensatrac with lifetime warranty (I know, i know) and alignement included, I asked them about KYB and they told me those were more expensive $780, of course KYB's does not cost that much, but I say this because I would like to ask how do I know if I really need shocks? they said I have the OEM nissans, so after 140k miles they need replacement right? yes the ride feels bumpy and if I push every corner of the car you can hear it noisy like an old mattress.

I've seen the KYB's for around $200 on ebay, are they easy to replace? any special tools needed?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ewwwww monroes ewwwwwwww i think i just died a little on the inside. (i used to have them on my car )

um, kybs are sort of OEM-ish quality, but even on stock height, if you can afford tokicos (or konis, but you probably won't want to pay that much) you'd be better off.

As far as special tools, you need a coil spring compressor to install new struts, cuz that spring is under really high pressure, so you have to compress it to make it safe to remove the top hat of the strut. For the fronts, the entire housing and everything is replaced (cuz you can't open it without cutting it open), and in the rear they are just inserts that drop in after you remove the super-big nut at the top of the casing.

When you had the shop do your brakes, did you source the parts yourself and bring them over with the car, or did you just let them buy the pads and rotors for you? Even if i weren't doing the work myself, i'd still want to source my own parts... especially for brakes.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I think if I buy the konis or tokicos they are meant to drop the car right? that's what I remember I read here on the forums, and also need the eibach springs or something I'm not sure though...

I'm surely willing to get some 17-18" rims and then drop the car but I can't afford all at the same time, that's why I was thinking on the KYB's at the moment, BTW around how much are the konis? can I use them if I don't drop the car, probably would buy the shocks and have a mechanic to come over with tools do the service, it would be cheaper than the shop quote of $680, but anyway I need the alignment right?

I know I should get the parts for brakes much more reliable, but they said for warranty must be their parts, I know I could buy my own parts and look for a mechanic to install those, but I really can't postpone this service anymore and I can't find any good mechanic around here. trust me I've been asking and nobody seems to know a good trusted mechanic, I can't believe some people even suggest me to stop by at the Midas shop.. I was like..."are you serious?" you were right about neighbors recommendations...

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

If you don't have have spring compressors, etc. don't fret...It is very easy to take the strut assemblies (front and rear) off of the car. Just take them with the new springs and struts to a shop. I did this and paid $100 to get them to install the Koni strut cartridges and Eibach springs on to the assemblies for me. Then I reinstalled them onto the car.

I believe you can use aftermarket struts with the stock springs, but if you are buying aftermarket units already (particularly Konis), then you should spend the extra money and buy the springs.

This is something to do all at once, not in stages...trust me.

Brian sells all the equipment you will need at internetautosupply.com
You can also check out shox.com

Tokicos cost about half of what Konis cost, but if you are serious about handling there is no substitute. I waited a bit longer and bought Konis...and have never looked back.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you do not have to drop using konis or tok's. the drop is just a natrual progression, and is recommended to do at the same time. there is no rule that says "drop and struts at the same time."

and if you do not have a strut compressor (who really does?) you can get a "loaner" set from autozone, I think you have to pay a deposit on them that you get back.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I think I rather wait and buy the koni's because anyways I can't even buy the KYB's at this moment, but it would be great to know how much it's the total on the parts.

Brian is internetautomar nickname? if yes I bought parts from him before (both axles) and would be great if he could let me know the price of the set for the handling upgrade.

Also, how long are the shocks meant to last? 50k miles? less? I don't know just asking

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

dunno how long konis last (depends on how hars your local roads are, and how far (if at all) you dropped your car.

but the konis are $135 PER CORNER, plus another $30-40 per corner for new strut mounts. So overall... around 700 but you can't get any better than that. plus you can adjust how stiff they are, unlike tokicos or kybs.