Battery Dashboard Light on
11-06-2008, 06:37 PM
#1
Battery Dashboard Light on
Hello Everybody! Since the last repairs done to my car everything has been working pretty good, unfortunately until today...
On my way back home from work I was waiting on a stoplight when suddenly I heard a humming noise (like a motor humming) and then while I heard the noise the clock dimmed, my headlights dimmed and the battery light on the dashboard turned on.
Also my foot was at the brake pedal and I felt some light vibration, this noise, vibration and lights dimmed last for about 3 seconds and then everything was back to normal, a couple of traffic lights ahead when I completely stopped the car it happen again but this time for 1-2 seconds every 10 seconds or so, but this time the battery light won't come on, just the vibration and the lights dimming.
This kept happening at every red light I got until I got home, I parked and with the foot on the brake I turned off the headlights but the noise still happens for about 2 secs randonmly, then turn on the lights again put it on P and pop the hood to see if I can get an idea where this humming noise was coming from, but definitely not from under the hood, at least was louder inside the car, I eventually hear it last longer and the battery light was coming on again.
I think I have a short circuit somewhere, but where do I start? I thought could be a high current load because it was dark and I have the lights on and maybe related to my stop lights since it happened when I brake but never when accelerating the car, however I might discard that because it happened while the car was at P.
I think is too risky to drive it like this right?, I mean in any case I don't want to burn anything if I have a short circuit, Thanks in advance for your help, all input highly appreciate it.
On my way back home from work I was waiting on a stoplight when suddenly I heard a humming noise (like a motor humming) and then while I heard the noise the clock dimmed, my headlights dimmed and the battery light on the dashboard turned on.
Also my foot was at the brake pedal and I felt some light vibration, this noise, vibration and lights dimmed last for about 3 seconds and then everything was back to normal, a couple of traffic lights ahead when I completely stopped the car it happen again but this time for 1-2 seconds every 10 seconds or so, but this time the battery light won't come on, just the vibration and the lights dimming.
This kept happening at every red light I got until I got home, I parked and with the foot on the brake I turned off the headlights but the noise still happens for about 2 secs randonmly, then turn on the lights again put it on P and pop the hood to see if I can get an idea where this humming noise was coming from, but definitely not from under the hood, at least was louder inside the car, I eventually hear it last longer and the battery light was coming on again.
I think I have a short circuit somewhere, but where do I start? I thought could be a high current load because it was dark and I have the lights on and maybe related to my stop lights since it happened when I brake but never when accelerating the car, however I might discard that because it happened while the car was at P.
I think is too risky to drive it like this right?, I mean in any case I don't want to burn anything if I have a short circuit, Thanks in advance for your help, all input highly appreciate it.
11-06-2008, 11:21 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
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u should start checking ur alternator belt tension first and then visually check the alternator for any damage then check the alternator's output cable going to the battery..check these first then we can go ahead with something else....
Last edited by burhan92SE; 11-06-2008 at 11:23 PM.
11-07-2008, 01:18 AM
#3
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Location: EU Scandinavia
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Hi! Good to know that the birth pangs are over! Pls tell me what the steamy issue was back then ? (I lost the issue)
Your explanation contains the Pacific in one sentence
...
- is the problem on only when brake pedal is being pushed? rear brk lamp assy melted?
- measured charge voltage is what?
- locate the noisy point - start pulling fuses until change
(possibly a circuit braker behind fuse panel)
Your explanation contains the Pacific in one sentence
... - is the problem on only when brake pedal is being pushed? rear brk lamp assy melted?
- measured charge voltage is what?
- locate the noisy point - start pulling fuses until change
(possibly a circuit braker behind fuse panel)
11-07-2008, 09:43 AM
#5
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...problem-2.html
Read post #80 I explain what I did there because I would like to keep this thread on topic...
Ok, Thanks for the suggestions, I'll be checking my alternator, measuring voltage on my batt, checking fuse boxes.
However I'll do this tomorrow morning because right now I'm at work and I didn't drive my car today and when I get home is already dark (DST is over
)
11-10-2008, 09:11 AM
#6
Well, I checked The alt belt, the main power cable, the fuses, battery terminals, voltage was 12.57v with car off with car on 14.16v. Everything seems to be ok.
I think I've found the problem however I'm not 100% sure, yesterday I drive it like this for about 2 miles and I notice the noise in coming from the trunk area, (like the antenna motor I don't know I'm just guessing about that) but then I realize that my audio system could be shortened somewhere, so I took out the main fuse and shut down my radio completely and the problem was gone.
Well so far The problem hasn't showed up since yesterday and I believe it's related to the couple of Amplifiers and Subs I have in the trunk, I'm gonna check the cables and see if something is wrong there.
If nothing phisically wrong I mean a melted cable or shorted one, could it still be a faulty alternator right? I mean probably under high load is not holding up anymore
I think I've found the problem however I'm not 100% sure, yesterday I drive it like this for about 2 miles and I notice the noise in coming from the trunk area, (like the antenna motor I don't know I'm just guessing about that) but then I realize that my audio system could be shortened somewhere, so I took out the main fuse and shut down my radio completely and the problem was gone.
Well so far The problem hasn't showed up since yesterday and I believe it's related to the couple of Amplifiers and Subs I have in the trunk, I'm gonna check the cables and see if something is wrong there.
If nothing phisically wrong I mean a melted cable or shorted one, could it still be a faulty alternator right? I mean probably under high load is not holding up anymore
11-10-2008, 10:06 AM
#7
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Alt light comes on when theres no charge 'pumping' above batt voltage. Typical problem sources are bad alt ground wire connections, bad charge cabling connectors (4), bad ctrl connector (1). Inside alt: worn brushes and/or regulator.
11-10-2008, 11:51 AM
#9
That's what I keep thinkinh so I have to check every wire on my sound system, I'll be doing that soon but in the meanwhile I took out the fuse to confirm the amps are causing this.
A shorted cable there could cause the battery dashboard light to come on right?
A shorted cable there could cause the battery dashboard light to come on right?
11-10-2008, 04:31 PM
#10
11-10-2008, 04:43 PM
#11
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You had a shorted out battery, and now it sounds like you have a shorted out amp?
Rev the car past 3k and check voltage.
11-10-2008, 04:47 PM
#12
11-10-2008, 07:39 PM
#13
Bad News
I just came from work and my car did the same thing! even with the amps and radio disconnected.
It does the same noise but can't figure it out where it comes from, I turned off my fog lights and then it stopped doing the problem but then I park at my place and turned on fog lights again and turned wipers on and brake pedal on and it start doing the noise more continusly....
Is this a direct sign that my alternator is dying? I want to be sure, how can I be sure? I don't know if it was me or maybe being so dark but I feel the belt moving too slowly, problem is I don't know how should it look like (how fast should be I mean)
Damn it guys! I'm lost here, from inside the car the noise echoes fro the rear, but with the hood open sound form under the car, but the engine is too noisy to notice that sound, I can notice more from inside the car and I can feel it on the brake pedal, any clues?
Pardon my ignorance but , could the belt from alt slip from begin too slow and make that noise? I don't know, sorry if that sounds too dumb
I just came from work and my car did the same thing! even with the amps and radio disconnected.
It does the same noise but can't figure it out where it comes from, I turned off my fog lights and then it stopped doing the problem but then I park at my place and turned on fog lights again and turned wipers on and brake pedal on and it start doing the noise more continusly....
Is this a direct sign that my alternator is dying? I want to be sure, how can I be sure? I don't know if it was me or maybe being so dark but I feel the belt moving too slowly, problem is I don't know how should it look like (how fast should be I mean)
Damn it guys! I'm lost here, from inside the car the noise echoes fro the rear, but with the hood open sound form under the car, but the engine is too noisy to notice that sound, I can notice more from inside the car and I can feel it on the brake pedal, any clues?
Pardon my ignorance but , could the belt from alt slip from begin too slow and make that noise? I don't know, sorry if that sounds too dumb
11-11-2008, 12:18 AM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
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However, check belt tightness. Loose belt screechees like swarm of apes... AND loading alt will magnify it (like u did by using those electric devices wipers etc)... If belt is loose, alt is loaded, alt rpm will drop. This will cause charge voltage to stop, ALT lamp comes on.
--->buy & install new belt.
Check/Clean these connectors: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Measure voltage as the problem is on. If charge voltage is 13.8V or more, enjoy the alt, locate the noise. Buy 5$ repair shop stethoscope and listen around: the sound carried via air echoes and 'hides' the source.
---------Give us a video with your sound effects----------
See below for the upper curve; Alt output related to rpm. When alt speed drops under 1000, the voltage output drops dramatically along with Amps supply. With too low idle or slipping belt, theres NO charge... meaning Alt lamp comes on. The lamp is there for a reason...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Last edited by Wiking; 11-11-2008 at 12:42 AM.
11-11-2008, 01:19 AM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
Bad News
I just came from work and my car did the same thing! even with the amps and radio disconnected.
It does the same noise but can't figure it out where it comes from, I turned off my fog lights and then it stopped doing the problem but then I park at my place and turned on fog lights again and turned wipers on and brake pedal on and it start doing the noise more continusly....
Is this a direct sign that my alternator is dying? I want to be sure, how can I be sure? I don't know if it was me or maybe being so dark but I feel the belt moving too slowly, problem is I don't know how should it look like (how fast should be I mean)
Damn it guys! I'm lost here, from inside the car the noise echoes fro the rear, but with the hood open sound form under the car, but the engine is too noisy to notice that sound, I can notice more from inside the car and I can feel it on the brake pedal, any clues?
Pardon my ignorance but , could the belt from alt slip from begin too slow and make that noise? I don't know, sorry if that sounds too dumb
I just came from work and my car did the same thing! even with the amps and radio disconnected.
It does the same noise but can't figure it out where it comes from, I turned off my fog lights and then it stopped doing the problem but then I park at my place and turned on fog lights again and turned wipers on and brake pedal on and it start doing the noise more continusly....
Is this a direct sign that my alternator is dying? I want to be sure, how can I be sure? I don't know if it was me or maybe being so dark but I feel the belt moving too slowly, problem is I don't know how should it look like (how fast should be I mean)
Damn it guys! I'm lost here, from inside the car the noise echoes fro the rear, but with the hood open sound form under the car, but the engine is too noisy to notice that sound, I can notice more from inside the car and I can feel it on the brake pedal, any clues?
Pardon my ignorance but , could the belt from alt slip from begin too slow and make that noise? I don't know, sorry if that sounds too dumb
11-11-2008, 08:47 AM
#17
usually if a belt is slippping tho it will squeak.. i had a slipping belt on the alternator of the Oldsmobile... (left headlights on, battery died. when battery died, alternator had to work harder.. caused belt to slip harder than usual, blah blah) and 3 miles later the belt snapped from overheating. so if it is slipping ALOT then i'd think his belt would have broken by now.
11-11-2008, 09:36 AM
#18
First, Just to clear the idle for you wiking, I start the car and idle starts at 1500RPM but about 10 seconds later neddle drops to 1100rpm, shift to D and becomes 800rpm, car feels very smooth and it doesn't shake anything at all.
Now about the noise, it sounds more like a humming noise rather than a squeak or screech... picture you cell phone on vibrator only and receiving a call, that's how it sounds! but of course louder!
I will check for cracks and the tension of the belt, one thing to mention is that I never replaced this belt in the 4 years I've had this car, and I don't think previous owner just replaced it, so I think either way it's a good idea to replace it right? Wiking write up suggest to replace it every 5 years or 60k miles, so mine is due for replace I guess.
Now about the noise, it sounds more like a humming noise rather than a squeak or screech... picture you cell phone on vibrator only and receiving a call, that's how it sounds! but of course louder!
I will check for cracks and the tension of the belt, one thing to mention is that I never replaced this belt in the 4 years I've had this car, and I don't think previous owner just replaced it, so I think either way it's a good idea to replace it right? Wiking write up suggest to replace it every 5 years or 60k miles, so mine is due for replace I guess.
11-11-2008, 10:34 AM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
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But u can find u phone can u?
Locate the sound; take stethoscope and start poking. First the alt.
11-11-2008, 01:15 PM
#21
I think the mic from the camera won't be able to capture the sound because of the engine being much louder, besides the noise is being made randomly, it could be within 5 min or within 30min, but I'll give it a try.
11-11-2008, 05:36 PM
#22
11-15-2008, 12:03 PM
#23
Ok, today Iwent under the car and inspect the alt belt and I don't know, for me looks ok but I have no idea and have no experience about alternators. I Think the belt is thight, I tried to do what burhan suggest by twisting the belt and can't be twisted more than 90 degrees ( I took a picture twisting it) I also twist the AC belt and even that one seems a little bit more loose than the Alt belt
So, I took a few pictures and here they are:
If any other suggestions please let me know, I turned the car on to try and film the noise but it doesn't do the noise again but I'm sure if I drive it a little bit the problem will come back.
So, I took a few pictures and here they are:
If any other suggestions please let me know, I turned the car on to try and film the noise but it doesn't do the noise again but I'm sure if I drive it a little bit the problem will come back.
11-15-2008, 02:40 PM
#24
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CC's suggestion of the automotive stethescope is the move. Those things are the shiz. Plus you can easily take the end off and use just the hose to find vacuum or exhaust leaks, which is handy for any 3rd gen owner
11-19-2008, 03:53 PM
#25
Ok guys, I've been trying to capture the noise and how the lights dim with my camera but this car is like a spoiled baby, I've been driving it and it doesn't want to do it again.
I bought the stethoscope this past weekend and yesterday it did the noise once after a 10 mile drive so I pulled over and wait with the car on and nothing, the noise was for about just 1 second.
This morning I turned on the car and no lights no high load at all, it did the noise for about 3 seconds, so waited like 10 minutes and nothing, it's really hard to diagnose something as random as this, and the worst part is I don't know how bad this problem is.
I was driving my dad's corolla to let the Maxima rest until I fix this but the freakin corolla broke down on me so I have no choice but to drive my Maxima like this now.
Last time I went to Autozone they charged and fixed my battery for free, they advertise to test alternators for free also, should I give it a try? I mean I'm blindly trying to spot this problem and I'm not (yet) 100% sure it's the alternator.
You know from bad (really bad) past experiences I don't want to go into a shop and let them rip me off (again) if it's something else and not the alternator, but still if I confirm my alt is bad I don't know how to take it out and give proper tension to the belt and all the procedure this needs.
suggestions.... opinions.... advice....
Thanks!
I bought the stethoscope this past weekend and yesterday it did the noise once after a 10 mile drive so I pulled over and wait with the car on and nothing, the noise was for about just 1 second.
This morning I turned on the car and no lights no high load at all, it did the noise for about 3 seconds, so waited like 10 minutes and nothing, it's really hard to diagnose something as random as this, and the worst part is I don't know how bad this problem is.
I was driving my dad's corolla to let the Maxima rest until I fix this but the freakin corolla broke down on me so I have no choice but to drive my Maxima like this now.
Last time I went to Autozone they charged and fixed my battery for free, they advertise to test alternators for free also, should I give it a try? I mean I'm blindly trying to spot this problem and I'm not (yet) 100% sure it's the alternator.
You know from bad (really bad) past experiences I don't want to go into a shop and let them rip me off (again) if it's something else and not the alternator, but still if I confirm my alt is bad I don't know how to take it out and give proper tension to the belt and all the procedure this needs.
suggestions.... opinions.... advice....
Thanks!
11-19-2008, 10:18 PM
#27
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
My problem is my ears, cant hear the noise... What may cause intermittent noise is the steering pump/roller, A/C /roller and alt bearings.
As you also have had charge (?) related problems, I'd go and swap the alt. Much more cheaper to make sure than to be towed Also the swap is relatively easy ½hour job while u watch on --->ask for a fixed price. Plus if alt has 100k miles on it, brushes/collector is already needing attention. See that the two white charge wire connectors are opened and inspected/greased as is the ground wire screw beside them; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Typically a cheap reman alt will last one year - I guess its because casing oxidation. Spraying CRC or whatever contact solution on the assembly can help in there...
As you also have had charge (?) related problems, I'd go and swap the alt. Much more cheaper to make sure than to be towed
Also the swap is relatively easy ½hour job while u watch on --->ask for a fixed price. Plus if alt has 100k miles on it, brushes/collector is already needing attention. See that the two white charge wire connectors are opened and inspected/greased as is the ground wire screw beside them; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23Typically a cheap reman alt will last one year - I guess its because casing oxidation. Spraying CRC or whatever contact solution on the assembly can help in there...
11-20-2008, 10:22 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 539
My problem is my ears, cant hear the noise... What may cause intermittent noise is the steering pump/roller, A/C /roller and alt bearings.
As you also have had charge (?) related problems, I'd go and swap the alt. Much more cheaper to make sure than to be towed Also the swap is relatively easy ½hour job while u watch on --->ask for a fixed price. Plus if alt has 100k miles on it, brushes/collector is already needing attention. See that the two white charge wire connectors are opened and inspected/greased as is the ground wire screw beside them; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Typically a cheap reman alt will last one year - I guess its because casing oxidation. Spraying CRC or whatever contact solution on the assembly can help in there...
As you also have had charge (?) related problems, I'd go and swap the alt. Much more cheaper to make sure than to be towed
Also the swap is relatively easy ½hour job while u watch on --->ask for a fixed price. Plus if alt has 100k miles on it, brushes/collector is already needing attention. See that the two white charge wire connectors are opened and inspected/greased as is the ground wire screw beside them; see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23Typically a cheap reman alt will last one year - I guess its because casing oxidation. Spraying CRC or whatever contact solution on the assembly can help in there...
11-20-2008, 11:17 AM
#29
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Location: EU Scandinavia
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11-24-2008, 01:17 PM
#30
Ok, I followed your advice, the noise came up yesterday morning and I checked with sthetoscope until I hit the jackpot: noise comes from alternator for sure! i heard like something is slipping inside
Now, I went to autozone and bought the alternator there with lifetime warranty for $95 the problem now is how to install it, my problem is i dont know how to adjust the belt, and since I'm replacing the alt i guess is a good idea to replace belt also.
Wiking do you have step by step wirte up to replace alt, honestly I should pay someone but cant find any shop to trust
Now, I went to autozone and bought the alternator there with lifetime warranty for $95 the problem now is how to install it, my problem is i dont know how to adjust the belt, and since I'm replacing the alt i guess is a good idea to replace belt also.
Wiking do you have step by step wirte up to replace alt, honestly I should pay someone but cant find any shop to trust
11-24-2008, 02:36 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 539
I didn't really read through it but I think this is what you're looking for. It's a pretty self explanatory job.
http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/alternator.htm
http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/alternator.htm
11-24-2008, 09:19 PM
#32
Ok, I followed your advice, the noise came up yesterday morning and I checked with sthetoscope until I hit the jackpot: noise comes from alternator for sure! i heard like something is slipping inside
Now, I went to autozone and bought the alternator there with lifetime warranty for $95 the problem now is how to install it, my problem is i dont know how to adjust the belt, and since I'm replacing the alt i guess is a good idea to replace belt also.
Wiking do you have step by step wirte up to replace alt, honestly I should pay someone but cant find any shop to trust
Now, I went to autozone and bought the alternator there with lifetime warranty for $95 the problem now is how to install it, my problem is i dont know how to adjust the belt, and since I'm replacing the alt i guess is a good idea to replace belt also.
Wiking do you have step by step wirte up to replace alt, honestly I should pay someone but cant find any shop to trust
11-25-2008, 12:34 AM
#33
The whole replacement could be more helpful, before I've removed the splashguard and disconnect the ground and positive cables from Alt (when I was checking my previous problems) but besides that I have no idea where to start and if you do have advice or have replace it before and can point me the right way to do it would be highly appreciate it. However I have to point out that my main concern is the belt mainly because I never deal with this before, Thanks!
11-28-2008, 09:29 PM
#36
Ok Finally I'm gonna try to do it myself tomorrow I bought also a new belt, Thanks for the link Gunther.
Autozone doesn't show the Maxima writeup, only stanza, sentra but no Maxima (WTH!!)
Caped, where are those pictures man? I'll be so grateful if you could upload them, Thanks!
Where is the alternator belt adjustment bolt/bracket? while taking out the alt belt will I need to remove anything besides the alternator and it's belt?
Autozone doesn't show the Maxima writeup, only stanza, sentra but no Maxima (WTH!!)
Caped, where are those pictures man? I'll be so grateful if you could upload them, Thanks!
Where is the alternator belt adjustment bolt/bracket? while taking out the alt belt will I need to remove anything besides the alternator and it's belt?
11-28-2008, 09:42 PM
#37
Ok Finally I'm gonna try to do it myself tomorrow I bought also a new belt, Thanks for the link Gunther.
Autozone doesn't show the Maxima writeup, only stanza, sentra but no Maxima (WTH!!)
Caped, where are those pictures man? I'll be so grateful if you could upload them, Thanks!
Where is the alternator belt adjustment bolt/bracket? while taking out the alt belt will I need to remove anything besides the alternator and it's belt?
Autozone doesn't show the Maxima writeup, only stanza, sentra but no Maxima (WTH!!)
Caped, where are those pictures man? I'll be so grateful if you could upload them, Thanks!
Where is the alternator belt adjustment bolt/bracket? while taking out the alt belt will I need to remove anything besides the alternator and it's belt?
11-28-2008, 10:16 PM
#38
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
The A/C belt has to be taken out first, no problem
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Its so simple job that any shop can do it, just watch while they do it.
Autozone do have the horribleses chilton comic book pics, try try try until... you decide to download the FSM.
11-29-2008, 12:58 PM
#39
basically... unplug the connectors seen here (harness, +, and gnd. you won't have the 'extra ground' like Wiking does.. he added that himself)
then, color coded with this pic ->
then, color coded with this pic ->
- loosen the 'red' bolt on each side of the alternator bracket (only one shown in pic)
- loosen the 'blue' bolt
- loosen the 'green' bolt and push inward on the alty to loosen the belt
- slip the belt off the pulley
- remove the 'blue' bolt
- remove the 2 'red' bolts
- pull the alternator out
11-29-2008, 02:25 PM
#40
Thank you! Thanks a lot to you all! I just finished and I think I succeded... wasn't that hard at all and that is coming from someone with no experience, first time replacing an alternator.
Well, after I installed the new alternator and turn on the car the belt was screeching a lot and I remember what you told me "a loose belt will whine and/or screech" so I tightened the screw (green bolt on caped picture, #4 on wiking's) and then the screech was gone.
I'm going out for a test drive and I'll let you know if any other issues come up, is there any other advice/suggestion with this new alternator? BTW, I didn't replace the belt, why? honestly it looks brand new! it's made in usa (the one from pepboys it's made in korea) , no cracks, no damage at all, so I believe this mechanic who swap my engine replace those belts, because I never replace them before and I've been the owner for 4 years now, and the belts don't look 4 years old.
Well, after I installed the new alternator and turn on the car the belt was screeching a lot and I remember what you told me "a loose belt will whine and/or screech" so I tightened the screw (green bolt on caped picture, #4 on wiking's) and then the screech was gone.
I'm going out for a test drive and I'll let you know if any other issues come up, is there any other advice/suggestion with this new alternator? BTW, I didn't replace the belt, why? honestly it looks brand new! it's made in usa (the one from pepboys it's made in korea) , no cracks, no damage at all, so I believe this mechanic who swap my engine replace those belts, because I never replace them before and I've been the owner for 4 years now, and the belts don't look 4 years old.