Whats the best way to drive an old A/T
#1
Whats the best way to drive an old A/T
I have an old VGauto transmission just about to start giving me problems im pretty sure it has original auto transmission fluid at 147k so i cant do any fluid changes or flushes cuz nobody will gimme a warranty. so i am about to do the VE5speed swap but i wanna delay that project as much as i can. whats the best way to drive it the meant time to help prolong the life of the transmission?
should i drive with the tranny switch on power, comfort, or in between?
should i drive with car on overdrive?
what rpm should i rev the engine to?
any help would be greatly appreciated
should i drive with the tranny switch on power, comfort, or in between?
should i drive with car on overdrive?
what rpm should i rev the engine to?
any help would be greatly appreciated
#3
old VGauto transmission <---> nobody will gimme a warranty
eh? The World Is Cruel...
Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
eh? The World Is Cruel...
Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
#5
old VGauto transmission <---> nobody will gimme a warranty
eh? The World Is Cruel...
Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
eh? The World Is Cruel...
Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
#6
thanx i had it in power with overdrive off and since peak hp was at 5200 ive been tryin to rev it there each time
#8
Change/drain {NOT FLUSH!!} the fluid in your transmission, there are writeups all over in this forum on how to do it.{look at the last few pages of the transmission maintenance thread a few threads down}
If you don't change the fluid soon, i will guaranty you will be moving your 5 speed swap up in your work plans. and no, changing the fluid will not make it go out faster, pure bs. If it's already slipping, then it's probably too late for a fluid change to help. If it's staying in second gear at takeoff, or hanging in a gear too long, then a fluid change may prolong the life of the trans somewhat, but again, no guaranties are to be had from fluid changes.
#9
No transmission fluid manufacturer is going to warranty your transmission, period.
Change/drain {NOT FLUSH!!} the fluid in your transmission, there are writeups all over in this forum on how to do it.{look at the last few pages of the transmission maintenance thread a few threads down}
If you don't change the fluid soon, i will guaranty you will be moving your 5 speed swap up in your work plans. and no, changing the fluid will not make it go out faster, pure bs. If it's already slipping, then it's probably too late for a fluid change to help. If it's staying in second gear at takeoff, or hanging in a gear too long, then a fluid change may prolong the life of the trans somewhat, but again, no guaranties are to be had from fluid changes.
Change/drain {NOT FLUSH!!} the fluid in your transmission, there are writeups all over in this forum on how to do it.{look at the last few pages of the transmission maintenance thread a few threads down}
If you don't change the fluid soon, i will guaranty you will be moving your 5 speed swap up in your work plans. and no, changing the fluid will not make it go out faster, pure bs. If it's already slipping, then it's probably too late for a fluid change to help. If it's staying in second gear at takeoff, or hanging in a gear too long, then a fluid change may prolong the life of the trans somewhat, but again, no guaranties are to be had from fluid changes.
#10
Simply draining/refilling the transmission is not going to damage the transmission, leaving old/original fluid in there will, for sure.
#11
They(the mechanics) said a transmission flush will hurt your trans right? This is very possible, again, look to the tranny preventative maintenance thread for transmission flush explanations/warnings.
Simply draining/refilling the transmission is not going to damage the transmission, leaving old/original fluid in there will, for sure.
Simply draining/refilling the transmission is not going to damage the transmission, leaving old/original fluid in there will, for sure.
my question is about how many miles are in a week and does it matter how exact i am can i just drain and refill with 3 quarts or should i measure it exaclty?
#12
Forgetting rumors and such ................
On exactly what do you base that statement? ............. and what symptoms are you seeing?
I have an old VGauto transmission just about to start giving me problems
#13
I agree with Greeny. My fluid was very dark, pretty much black when I held up the pitcher to the light - and I did just 1 drain & refill acording to the service manual...plus drained whatever through the AT Cooler lines when I replaced the rad. 4.55L came out in total. If you don't want to shock the system, then maybe the 1 drain & refill method is good at first, just to give it a taste. Then if it's OK, you could do a 2nd or 3rd or wikings method.
After new fluid - i don't feel any difference and I've gone about 4,000KM so far....I know it's not that much yet - but it's something. This car has always shifted smoothly though. I used the dino ATF from Nissan, but I would feel confident with Walmart Supertech stuff too. I opted to not go with the Amsoil Syn, since the car only had cheap dino it's whole life - so I didn't want to change anything too drastically...if it is in fact on life support.
I drive it now like an old man. I rarely go beyond 2500 RPM, maybe touching 3000 RPM occasionally. It drives people crazy behind me. The over drive has been on it's entire life so I left it - and the comfort / power switch has always been in the middle OFF position.
I suggest having your speed dial set to a JY supplier to deliver you a replacement just in case. I bought the hoist mainly to prepare for the worst. I still need to buy the tranny jack. I don't expect it to last much longer even though it feels as good as new.
RE: What the mechanics told you
They told me the same thing - every mechanic. They said don't touch it. Most of them may not want to touch it just in case they did change it, then you go back and say somethings changed, and they are to blame for breaking the whole thing - my guess is the gain they get from changing the fluid is not worth the headache if something actually did happen - like the internal filter got clogged from the dirt being dislodged internally...or the detergents dislodging the dirt inside - because of new fluid - thus clogging the filter. My opinion is, don't shock it, but do something good for it.
After new fluid - i don't feel any difference and I've gone about 4,000KM so far....I know it's not that much yet - but it's something. This car has always shifted smoothly though. I used the dino ATF from Nissan, but I would feel confident with Walmart Supertech stuff too. I opted to not go with the Amsoil Syn, since the car only had cheap dino it's whole life - so I didn't want to change anything too drastically...if it is in fact on life support.
I drive it now like an old man. I rarely go beyond 2500 RPM, maybe touching 3000 RPM occasionally. It drives people crazy behind me. The over drive has been on it's entire life so I left it - and the comfort / power switch has always been in the middle OFF position.
I suggest having your speed dial set to a JY supplier to deliver you a replacement just in case. I bought the hoist mainly to prepare for the worst. I still need to buy the tranny jack. I don't expect it to last much longer even though it feels as good as new.
RE: What the mechanics told you
They told me the same thing - every mechanic. They said don't touch it. Most of them may not want to touch it just in case they did change it, then you go back and say somethings changed, and they are to blame for breaking the whole thing - my guess is the gain they get from changing the fluid is not worth the headache if something actually did happen - like the internal filter got clogged from the dirt being dislodged internally...or the detergents dislodging the dirt inside - because of new fluid - thus clogging the filter. My opinion is, don't shock it, but do something good for it.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 10-26-2008 at 10:54 PM.
#14
The best warranty for any mechanical entity is good oil and changed as OIL mfg recommends - flee from 'mechs' who disagree. One solution is Nissan stealership which wants to $ell a new tranny - that comes with a war ranty. Smbdy pls explain how that works, how many attorney$ are needed to get it fixed?
#15
#18
when yall talk about new fluid or the action of changing it dislodging "dirt"
do you mean a\t bands/clutches material?
because i just dont see how lots of DIRT is supposed to get inside?
our transmissions.
by the way ,a good percent of people get scammed into a whole
transmission replacement when the torque converter stripping
the spline teeth is the only problem and of course they either
also sell you a new torque converter or use the good one that comes with the used replacement trans
this is usually the case when the car wont engage in gear
do you mean a\t bands/clutches material?
because i just dont see how lots of DIRT is supposed to get inside?
our transmissions.
by the way ,a good percent of people get scammed into a whole
transmission replacement when the torque converter stripping
the spline teeth is the only problem and of course they either
also sell you a new torque converter or use the good one that comes with the used replacement trans
this is usually the case when the car wont engage in gear
Last edited by maximagician; 10-29-2008 at 11:27 PM.
#19
These stories have been invented b/c regular oil change doesnt fit Nissan's quarterly revenue kick-off meetings. And helps lots of trannyshop$
#20
I just hope my filter isn't getting clogged - because you guys said it can't really be serviced easily.
In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
#21
I just hope my filter isn't getting clogged - because you guys said it can't really be serviced easily.
In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
#22
Theres at least three sieves in the valve assy, wouldnt call em filters... And like IEA says, theres need for 'some' extra action if these get blocked.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
#23
i tried driving the car in the OFF position, or comfort and could never do it again. the POWER option should always stay ON.
#24
Last edited by Wiking; 11-02-2008 at 12:50 AM.
#25
That sw just moves shifting point up/down (in relation to rpm). The 1-2 shift may possibly be tweaked to work more sharply, check the link. Note that it was soft from the very beginning... check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
#26
P -is no turbo switch, just for tranny ctrl. Still I cant see no other than sales argument function for it. My P is always on...
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