Front Door Adjustment?
10-12-2008, 06:03 PM
#1
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Location: Surrey, B.C
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Front Door Adjustment?
hi guys
my front driver door adjustment is out....wen i close the door my lock hit the car body frame first then closes with making a noise like some metal is hitting metal...i saw in fsm and there is some door hing adjustment....but i didn't really understand how to adjust the door from there....can someone show me in easy way how to adjust the door thank you
my front driver door adjustment is out....wen i close the door my lock hit the car body frame first then closes with making a noise like some metal is hitting metal...i saw in fsm and there is some door hing adjustment....but i didn't really understand how to adjust the door from there....can someone show me in easy way how to adjust the door thank you
10-12-2008, 06:16 PM
#2
The door hinges are most likely worn out, common problem with the 3rd gen d-side door.
I am not sure if you can just replace the entire hinge with good j-yard replacements, i'll have to take a better look at the hinge assembly tomorrow.
Maybe someone with some knowledge of the hinge assembly will chime in with a answer, i'm too tired to screw with it tonight.
I am not sure if you can just replace the entire hinge with good j-yard replacements, i'll have to take a better look at the hinge assembly tomorrow.
Maybe someone with some knowledge of the hinge assembly will chime in with a answer, i'm too tired to screw with it tonight.
10-12-2008, 06:31 PM
#3
You can loosen the hinge bolts and realign the door, but you need to remove the fenders anyway so while you have them off, you might as well replace the hinges whether or not they are worn out.
Triple check that the door opens and closes correctly and is lined up properly on a level surface WITHOUT the car on jack stands. If it's on jack stands when you install the door, what you think is proper alignment will be off when it's back on 4 wheels.
Triple check that the door opens and closes correctly and is lined up properly on a level surface WITHOUT the car on jack stands. If it's on jack stands when you install the door, what you think is proper alignment will be off when it's back on 4 wheels.
10-12-2008, 06:35 PM
#4
The door hinges are most likely worn out, common problem with the 3rd gen d-side door.
I am not sure if you can just replace the entire hinge with good j-yard replacements, i'll have to take a better look at the hinge assembly tomorrow.
Maybe someone with some knowledge of the hinge assembly will chime in with a answer, i'm too tired to screw with it tonight.
I am not sure if you can just replace the entire hinge with good j-yard replacements, i'll have to take a better look at the hinge assembly tomorrow.
Maybe someone with some knowledge of the hinge assembly will chime in with a answer, i'm too tired to screw with it tonight.
10-12-2008, 06:37 PM
#6
If you're talking about the actual hinges and not the thin piece of metal that goes in the door (middle piece) then yes, they can be replaced. You have to pull the front fender off (or at least undo some screws and pull it back some) but they most definitely can be replaced. My driver's side used to sag so I ordered a new set from my local dealer (think it was maybe $20) and now it opens/shuts like a new car.
10-12-2008, 06:41 PM
#7
on the pricing tho. they charged me $35. I'm NEVER EVER going to that Jy again. their prices are out-of-this-world
10-12-2008, 06:48 PM
#8
i had that on mine when i bought it. the whole door had to 'ride up' that bit hook loop when i shut it, so it was gnawing away at that black vynil cover on the hook. got a JY hinge and that fixed it. MAJOR MAJOR on the pricing tho. they charged me $35. I'm NEVER EVER going to that Jy again. their prices are out-of-this-world
on the pricing tho. they charged me $35. I'm NEVER EVER going to that Jy again. their prices are out-of-this-world i don't have to go look at my car tomorrow. 
Can you give the op some insight to replacing the hinge?
10-12-2008, 07:11 PM
#9
lol it's harder than it looks just cuz the door is heavy. as long as you have a helper that can hold the door steady then it's just 2 bolts on the door side, 2 bolts on the body side, and you just got to pry it off a little bit since it's gonna be stuck on with the paint. then just put the other one on there and adjust it until it closes easily
10-12-2008, 09:40 PM
#10
i had that on mine when i bought it. the whole door had to 'ride up' that bit hook loop when i shut it, so it was gnawing away at that black vynil cover on the hook. got a JY hinge and that fixed it. MAJOR MAJOR on the pricing tho. they charged me $35. I'm NEVER EVER going to that Jy again. their prices are out-of-this-world
on the pricing tho. they charged me $35. I'm NEVER EVER going to that Jy again. their prices are out-of-this-world
10-12-2008, 09:43 PM
#11
well that place stopped letting ppl in the yard... they-pull only. so i stopped going there and now i go to a pull-it-yourself place.
also paid $65 for a cluster and $75 for a USED window regulator. i didn't know better, that was all pre-org for me. their prices weren't universal either. cluster for a Geo Prizm was $50 but for maxima was $65
also paid $65 for a cluster and $75 for a USED window regulator. i didn't know better, that was all pre-org for me. their prices weren't universal either. cluster for a Geo Prizm was $50 but for maxima was $65
10-12-2008, 10:11 PM
#12
You'd need to remove the fender to get access and loose 4 hinge bolts on the body of the car or at least its part covering the hinge bolts. 4 bolts on the door sides of the hinges cannot be used for any adjustments as they sit tight in their holes so you should leave them alone.
I put a hydraulic jack under the end of the door closest to the lock, moved the door to the almost closed position (easier to see where lock opening is going) and set its height so that lock opening bottom part was aligned with the lock bracket on the body. Tighten your hinges, release the jack and you should be right at the spot as door slightly sags after jack removal.
I put a hydraulic jack under the end of the door closest to the lock, moved the door to the almost closed position (easier to see where lock opening is going) and set its height so that lock opening bottom part was aligned with the lock bracket on the body. Tighten your hinges, release the jack and you should be right at the spot as door slightly sags after jack removal.
10-12-2008, 11:36 PM
#13
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10-13-2008, 07:48 AM
#15
You'd need to remove the fender to get access and loose 4 hinge bolts on the body of the car or at least its part covering the hinge bolts. 4 bolts on the door sides of the hinges cannot be used for any adjustments as they sit tight in their holes so you should leave them alone.
I put a hydraulic jack under the end of the door closest to the lock, moved the door to the almost closed position (easier to see where lock opening is going) and set its height so that lock opening bottom part was aligned with the lock bracket on the body. Tighten your hinges, release the jack and you should be right at the spot as door slightly sags after jack removal.
I put a hydraulic jack under the end of the door closest to the lock, moved the door to the almost closed position (easier to see where lock opening is going) and set its height so that lock opening bottom part was aligned with the lock bracket on the body. Tighten your hinges, release the jack and you should be right at the spot as door slightly sags after jack removal.
10-13-2008, 02:27 PM
#16
well that place stopped letting ppl in the yard... they-pull only. so i stopped going there and now i go to a pull-it-yourself place.
also paid $65 for a cluster and $75 for a USED window regulator. i didn't know better, that was all pre-org for me. their prices weren't universal either. cluster for a Geo Prizm was $50 but for maxima was $65
also paid $65 for a cluster and $75 for a USED window regulator. i didn't know better, that was all pre-org for me. their prices weren't universal either. cluster for a Geo Prizm was $50 but for maxima was $65
10-13-2008, 07:32 PM
#17
Yeah, you gotta stay away from those "we pull it" shops. Don't support them. I called up some wack yard called "Portland Imports" a long time ago. They wanted $75 for a used master window switch and were extremely rude on the phone. Half the fun of going to the yard is looking through all the stock anyway. I did pay U-Pull-It $150 for a bumper in 05 though which I still feel dumb about because soon after that they posted their prices on the wall, and bumpers were about half that. Now it's owned by LKQ and they actually care about keeping the place clean and organized and have an English speaking staff with good customer service.
i'm wish i had the money to stock up on 'common failure' items and that way whenever you guys needed parts at the JY and there were no 3rd gens there... you could just buy it from me. like i could just nab every single window regulator, window switch, VE coilpack, CTS, door hinge, iacv, etc etc out of all the 3rd gens and just run a little shop.
10-13-2008, 08:38 PM
#18
Watch out for LKQ yards. place may be cleaner, but the prices are 3x what they should be. and everyone remember, ALL PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE, and CASH TALKS. call e'm up and see if they have a fender or whatnot.. they'll quote you $105 for a fender. tell them you'll give them $65 for it since it's the going rate elsewhere (basically cut their over-the-phone price in half...). let them stew on that for a few sec and they'll usually agree to it.
If they don't but agree to 75, go to the yard and get it with 75 in your pocket... when it comes time to check out, tell them the condition isn't what they stated over the phone and offer 50-60 for it. they'll settle for somewere around 65, but if it's in good shape, be willing to pay 75 for a good fender. 25-35 for a poor one. et cetc etc.
As for changing the hinges, it's best to pull the fender. (BUY NEW OEM HINGES. The price isn't much more than junk aftermarket ones, and is way cheaper than the junkyard price. I think they're around %15 each new from dealer.)
once the fender pulled, change the hinges one at a time with the door closed. that holds it in decent position. once both are changes, check door alignment and adjust as necessary, only moving one hinge at a time. usually sticking a couple shims at the back edge of the door, then loosening and tightnening the upper hinge is all that's needed to align the door at that point.
If they don't but agree to 75, go to the yard and get it with 75 in your pocket... when it comes time to check out, tell them the condition isn't what they stated over the phone and offer 50-60 for it. they'll settle for somewere around 65, but if it's in good shape, be willing to pay 75 for a good fender. 25-35 for a poor one. et cetc etc.
As for changing the hinges, it's best to pull the fender. (BUY NEW OEM HINGES. The price isn't much more than junk aftermarket ones, and is way cheaper than the junkyard price. I think they're around %15 each new from dealer.)
once the fender pulled, change the hinges one at a time with the door closed. that holds it in decent position. once both are changes, check door alignment and adjust as necessary, only moving one hinge at a time. usually sticking a couple shims at the back edge of the door, then loosening and tightnening the upper hinge is all that's needed to align the door at that point.
10-13-2008, 09:06 PM
#19
Watch out for LKQ yards. place may be cleaner, but the prices are 3x what they should be. and everyone remember, ALL PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE, and CASH TALKS. call e'm up and see if they have a fender or whatnot.. they'll quote you $105 for a fender. tell them you'll give them $65 for it since it's the going rate elsewhere (basically cut their over-the-phone price in half...). let them stew on that for a few sec and they'll usually agree to it.
If they don't but agree to 75, go to the yard and get it with 75 in your pocket... when it comes time to check out, tell them the condition isn't what they stated over the phone and offer 50-60 for it. they'll settle for somewere around 65, but if it's in good shape, be willing to pay 75 for a good fender. 25-35 for a poor one. et cetc etc.
As for changing the hinges, it's best to pull the fender. (BUY NEW OEM HINGES. The price isn't much more than junk aftermarket ones, and is way cheaper than the junkyard price. I think they're around %15 each new from dealer.)
once the fender pulled, change the hinges one at a time with the door closed. that holds it in decent position. once both are changes, check door alignment and adjust as necessary, only moving one hinge at a time. usually sticking a couple shims at the back edge of the door, then loosening and tightnening the upper hinge is all that's needed to align the door at that point.
If they don't but agree to 75, go to the yard and get it with 75 in your pocket... when it comes time to check out, tell them the condition isn't what they stated over the phone and offer 50-60 for it. they'll settle for somewere around 65, but if it's in good shape, be willing to pay 75 for a good fender. 25-35 for a poor one. et cetc etc.
As for changing the hinges, it's best to pull the fender. (BUY NEW OEM HINGES. The price isn't much more than junk aftermarket ones, and is way cheaper than the junkyard price. I think they're around %15 each new from dealer.)
once the fender pulled, change the hinges one at a time with the door closed. that holds it in decent position. once both are changes, check door alignment and adjust as necessary, only moving one hinge at a time. usually sticking a couple shims at the back edge of the door, then loosening and tightnening the upper hinge is all that's needed to align the door at that point.
10-13-2008, 11:12 PM
#20
At my yard, fenders are $25, hoods are $30, doors are $50, ect.. Make/model/year makes no difference. So prices are fair, but they know nothing about the stock. All they can tell you is if they have the car you're looking for. I tried to talk them down once on sunroof parts but they wouldn't budge.
Last edited by Hectic; 10-13-2008 at 11:15 PM.
10-14-2008, 06:59 AM
#21
With prices like those, I wouldn't bother trying to argue much. Around here, a fender is 75-100 and a hood is 100-150 in good shape. most yards here inventory their stuff and knows exactly what's in the yard. there's a few u-pull-it places and they're usually only filled with crap cars. rarely will they have a Maxima in good enough condition I'd pull parts off it.
10-14-2008, 07:02 AM
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
My 5cents -alignment has been workin for 5 yrs (the pass side pin was shot after 60k) . Dont forget to swap around the counterpart in the pillar, quite probable that the rubber has been ripped...
see also http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/13
see also http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/13
10-14-2008, 12:49 PM
#23
My 5cents -alignment has been workin for 5 yrs (the pass side pin was shot after 60k) . Dont forget to swap around the counterpart in the pillar, quite probable that the rubber has been ripped...
see also http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/13
[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_653.jpg[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/
[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_654.jpg[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/
see also http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/13
[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_653.jpg[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/
[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_654.jpg[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/
long time, no see, bro!
anyway.
I replaced my hinges without complete removal of the fender. just unscrewed the bottom screws, and pulled back a bit. (granted, my driver's fender is a little rough, and I did tweak it out a little.
)I also did it single handed, with the help of a cinder block to put it close to proper height, and I did both top and bottom, so I completely pulled the door off and set it aside. anybody who has seen a car without a door just has to laugh at the sight.
10-15-2008, 01:57 AM
#24
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Yes, good to see! Just came down from Lapland http://www.world66.com/europe/norway/alta , escaped before the snow...
Yes, the 'real' fix is better. However, nobody can distinguish between the 5min. shoddy fix and the 2hr real repair - except by actually liftin the door (havent seen anybody doing that). I can still do that repair any day I choose... So far I have always preferred waxing over hingerepair.
Also one must be careful not to damage the door assy whilst under operation; panel and wiring has to be removed.
Yes, the 'real' fix is better. However, nobody can distinguish between the 5min. shoddy fix and the 2hr real repair - except by actually liftin the door (havent seen anybody doing that). I can still do that repair any day I choose... So far I have always preferred waxing over hingerepair.
Also one must be careful not to damage the door assy whilst under operation; panel and wiring has to be removed.
10-15-2008, 03:02 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
Yes, good to see! Just came down from Lapland http://www.world66.com/europe/norway/alta , escaped before the snow...
Yes, the 'real' fix is better. However, nobody can distinguish between the 5min. shoddy fix and the 2hr real repair - except by actually liftin the door (havent seen anybody doing that). I can still do that repair any day I choose... So far I have always preferred waxing over hingerepair.
Also one must be careful not to damage the door assy whilst under operation; panel and wiring has to be removed.
Yes, the 'real' fix is better. However, nobody can distinguish between the 5min. shoddy fix and the 2hr real repair - except by actually liftin the door (havent seen anybody doing that). I can still do that repair any day I choose... So far I have always preferred waxing over hingerepair.
Also one must be careful not to damage the door assy whilst under operation; panel and wiring has to be removed.
10-15-2008, 03:33 AM
#26
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Never changed, theyre original from 1993... I guess (?) theyre std white bulbs down the street here (maybe the blue doorhandle-located led warps the color in the dash -pic, dunno).
U can also buy (dunno where) colored plastic "caps" on the std white bulbs.
U can also buy (dunno where) colored plastic "caps" on the std white bulbs.
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