Pyrophilus

Posted this in another thread (reply about a botched up technician brakejob), but wanted to post with more info.

I basically did any repairs in the car after series of really bad experiences from Goodyear, Nissan (2 dealers), and local shops.

So far, I've done all four struts, re-built CV joints on both sides (passenger side was tough), front pads/discs, rear drumbs and pads, re-painted a driver's door and used it to replace my driver's dented door, install leather + heat, replaced the exhaust y-pipe, electrochmatic mirros with outside temp probe, new "modest" soundsystem including new speakers to replace the bose system. I only write this to let people know the limits of my technical experience. On a '01 pathfinder, I've troubleshot and replaced the EVAP canister and re-built the solonoid for the EVAP line (this after two different dealers claimed that there was nothing wrong with the car and re-set the MIL light and charged me $250 for it). I am not a mechanic. I don't own many tools, except a complete set of metric socket sets in 1/4, 1/2/ and 3/8in, set of box wrench (non ratcheting), pair of jackstands, a 1/2" impact wrench.

Anyway, is rack replacement something that I could do???

So I have a '92 Maxima GXE that has been sitting in the back of my house due to a ruptured something in the power steering/pump... Last time i put the car back there, the power steering fluid was leaking out like there was no bottom. The car did have torn powersteering rack boots.

Now, I am going to HAVE to fix the rack (remove/replace) and I am guessing that the power steering pump is also dead from being run w/o fluid (it was smoking)??

Anyone have a good how to that I can follow? Also, what parts I need other than getting new Rack and pump? I already noticed that the power steering fluid return line to the reservoir is old and has hairline craks in the inside of the hose. I have the 3gen Nissan FSM (but the FSM for the '01 Pathfinder wasn't all that great), and Chilton and Haynes manuals, and all I know is that the steering rack replacement, albeit not impossible, it a PITA. I have a 4-day weekend next weekend, and I am hoping to get all the parts before then.

I also need to do the timing belt, and although I am pretty sure that the rack pulls out through the driver's side fender (and timing belt is on the passenger side of the engine), I am thinking of doing everything at once.

It's an old car, but it's been in my family since new, it's fully loaded GXE (auto climate, leather (put in heats myself), moonroof) minus the HUD. The transmission shifted as smooth as my '01 VQ35 Pathfinder LE, and I would like to keep the car. Any advice help will be appreciated.

Last time I took the car to a service garage (over a year ago) to get quotes on the rear struts, the guy pointed to the Honda dealer accross the street and said, "why don't you just go get a new Civic?" I was so upset... I came home and that weekend, I did the struts myself.

Thanks!

-Sage

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yes, you can do it.
I had never done it before, and replaced the ps pump at the same time.
I was done in about 5 hours.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Jooo caaaan dooo eeeeet!!

Umm yeah.. it's a time-consuming pain, but it's not incredibly hard.

1. CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL! I recommend sticking a bungee cord on it or running a seatbelt through it to hold it centered. This will help later.
whatever you do, DO NOT TURN THE WHEEL MORE THAN ONE TURN after you disconnect the rack. there's a spiral cable for the airbag that only has enough cable for about 4 turns each way in it. If you turn the wheel without the rack connected, you'll wind up breaking that cable and have to replace it. they ain't cheap.
simple fix is to just clamp the steering wheel in place and don't move it. The other fix is to remove the wheel and spiral completely while you're working on the rack. when you're done, get the wheels centered as best you can, then put the steering wheel and spiral cable back on.


2. mark all the stuff on the bottom end of the shaft when the wheel is centered.

3. remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle. If you're going to keep the old outer tie rods, then break the backup nuts loose and count the turns on the tie rod as you remove them. this will let you get a *ballpark* alignment on the car when you put it back together.

If you don't want to count the turns, just leave the tie rods on the rack and the measure the end-end length when you get the whole rack out and on the ground. when you put the new rack together, just make them the same length and you should be pretty close.

4. I've found its easier to remove the Y pipe to give you more clearance to the rack bolts... you can do it without, but I recommend pulling the y pipe...

5. unbolt the steering colum shaft from the rack. you can't remove it until you can pull the rack away from the firewall, but get it ready to come out. you may need to pry open the clamp on the shaft's splines a bit.

5a. somewhere along the line, remove the pressure and return hoses. I recommend replacing all the hoses while you're in there- if they're not leaking yet, they probably will soon!

6. unbolt the rack itself. there's 5 bolts on the firewall.

7. work the rack off the end of the steering shaft and then pull it out through the hole in the driver side fender. it's a tight fit, but it comes out.

8. Installation is reverse of removal. Just be careful to get the

Power steering pump... They sell a seal/rebuild kit for the pump for like $15 or so- it's not much compared to a new pump. you might try to rebuild the one you've got, but it may be damaged beyond rebuilding if you ran it without oil for too long. the internals are all metal so heat shouldn't have bothered them, but running metal-on-metal will ruin it...


There are procedures listed in the manual, but it doesn't emphasize some of the tricks to not fubaring stuff later-- like WHY you don't want to turn the wheel after pulling the rack off. it never mentions how you'll kill the spiral cable (may be called a clock spring in the manual, I forget).

hope that helps.
the job isn't as bad as it sounds- just time consuming. getting to the 5 bolts on the rack are a PITA.

be sure to replace everything on there while you're doing it- rack boots, bushings, hoses, etc.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is it can be that post is in stickyz teim now pls?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I would think that anyone that searches "steering rack" should be able to find this thread now.. pretty clear title, so it should be easy to search.

I'll link it in the general maintenance sticky though..

Pyrophilus

I have decided that I'll do it.

One question even before I get underneath.
How does one remove the outer tierod ball joint from the steering knuckle? I mean, once the nut is removed, how do you pull it out w/o damaging the joint/boot? I remember I tried to replace the lower control arm 2 years ago, and I remember I got EVERYTHING off except I couldn't pull the darned ball joints off the steering knuckle...

I think I will take a 4-day wekeend (next week) and try to do it. While I am at it, and have the car apart, I am thinking of doing the timing belt as well. Again, any tips are appreciated.

Last time I worked on the car, I did all four struts, front disc/pads, both CV joints in 2 days.

Before that, Y-Pipe and 2 engine mounts in half-day.

I always want to take pictures, but last thing I want touch with my hands while working on my car is my Nikon D300...

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Before you go - if the only problem with power steering is the leak then I'd take a look at high pressure hose which is quite classic reason for the leak. It can be replaced much easier. Torn boots don't cause the leak by themselves.

I had a leak like you describe and it was coming from the upper end of the hose. Very noticeable if you watch it while someone turns steering wheel from side to side with engine running. I also had smaller leak from power steering pump seal. Basically, it was embarassing to park the car anywhere. I also had torn boots, replaced them for the sake of it but nothing changed after that.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I suggest doing both projects 'separately'. Start and finish one. THEN go back and do the other. otherwise you wind up with too much mess and too many parts off the car. easy to get lost/confused in what's going on and what order to put everything back together.

Then again, the rack and PS pump will probably be easier to get out while the pass side axle is out of the car. up to you.

as for removing the tie rod ends, loosen the nut several turns (but leave the nut on), then lift up on the tie rod while you whack the end of the steering knuckle (the housing the tie rod end fits into) with a MFH (medium - f***ing - hammer). The shock from the hammer will temporarily deform the end of the knuckle and after a few good whacks will pop the tie rod end loose.

whatever you do, don't beat on the threads of the tie rod end unless you plan to throw it away. one whack with a hammer on the ends of the threads will run the last 2-3 turns on it and then you won't be able to put the nut back on. that's also why I suggest leaving the nut on the end of the tie rod while you're beating on the knuckle with a hammer. It you miss and hit the nut, it won't do much, if any damage.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Get some poly steering rack bushings from Moog while you're at it....Don't forget to center the steering wheel and locking it or restraining it in position.

lanciat

Just finished this job a couple of weeks ago, and would make the following recommendations:

1. Have new steering rack bushings in hand before you start the job. The odds are that, if your steering rack is shot, the rack bushings are as well (as mine were). Unfortunately, I didn't have new bushings in hand at the time I replaced the rack, which meant that I had to replace the bushings about two weeks later (after my special order had arrived at my local dealer). Not fun. Much easier to replace the bushings at the same time you're installing the new rack.

2. Removal of the rack through the opening on the driver's side is much easier if you remove the main hose fitting from the rack (immediately beneath and to the right (passenger side) of the yoke connecting the rack to the steering wheel pinion) before you loosen the steering rack bolts. My remanufatured rack did not come with the hose fitting, so I ultimately had to remove the existing fitting from the old rack in any event. But the job would have gone much more quickly had I realized that removal of the hose fitting makes all the difference between quick removal of the old rack and hours of struggle.

Hope this helps.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

^ that nut on the pressure line, is the nut supposed to turn with respect to the line? I go to loosen it and the whole line twists

black94se

iTrader: (2)

going to say if you loosen it and the line is twisting with it then it will bust the line, the nut should be free on the line

nitrous360

Spray some rust penetrate on it. It looks like it's pretty rusted. Hopefully it will break it loose. If not than you may need to replace the line. If that's the case than just cut the line. Another option is heat, but can be dangerous especially after spraying penetrate on it.

nitrous360

Also, using an open end wrench on it may strip the nut. Anytime you work with tubing nuts it's best to use tubing wrenches for maximum grip.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you need the red wrench otherwise you will need to replace the metal line if you kink it. Been There done that, car went to scrap

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

he might be screwed either way if that nut won't break loose from the pipe. he could always just replace that pipe with it...

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

i soaked the crap out of it with rust dissolve gel overnight right in the space between the nut and the line, im gonna go blast it out with carb spray/air gun and re-soak in PB blaster in a few minutes & try again

the threaded part turns very easily in/out of the body of the rack, its just twisting the line along with it

looks like its #49716.... or 49713

maxima-junky

iTrader: (8)

Steering rack replacement is a semi big job you can do it by yourself but a helper with some know how would be helpful. When I remove them to sell it usually takes me the better part of an afternoon.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if you end up needing a replacement line let me know. the one on my parts car looked to be in OK shape.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

SUCCESS! holy crap i had to work that nut back and forth nearly all day yesterday on and off... today i heated up the nut with a propane torch and soaked in some more PB blaster and rocked the nut back and forth and it finally cracked loose

im probably going to put in the new rack just for a mock up and make sure everything sits fine, then take it out again since im gutting the engine bay and front end to coat everything with the rust/chassis coat paint

1993-VG30E-GXE

Maximan what size is that Snapon open end wrench your using? I can't read it - it looks like 14...that way I can order the crowfoot ahead of time. Also, any special tools you needed for this job...just the 10mm flare crowfoot for that smaller diameter pipe (2) at the right of your wrench in the photo?

I'm going to replace this once the engine is out - access should be easier.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

don't get fancy...just go to sears and pick up a set of metric crow's foot.
i can bet that you'll do the job just the same w/ the sears' crows foot compared to the SO.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

i started with the 14mm open end wrench but then used a vice grip to get a tighter grip on that nut, didnt want to risk rounding out the hex

if youre going to do the crow foot, use one like this, it will hug the nut better than a simple open-ended one

1993-VG30E-GXE

Thanks Maximan, I did order it last night, I just ordered most of a set just in case. And ya, Dan I wouldn't buy those snap on ones, I checked the price they are Way too much. I mostly buy stuff from Princess Auto now (equivalent to Harbour Freight) or from several industrial brands that seem to be half the price of snap-off.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i'm not a fan of harbor freight stuff...but to each their own.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...red+nut+wrench

these are what i use.
for 26 bucks (cheaper when it's on sale) you can't really lose.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Harbor Freight: The stuff is generally garbage but it's possible to find some good deals there on usable stuff...but then again Princess Auto may not be exactly the same. Those sears ones look pretty good, but here the Craftsman stuff isn't exactly cheap...it's middle range. But I wouldn't buy hand tools from Harbor freight/PA....for that I've only bought Westward, Jonnesway, Proto, Armstrong, Wright (i've just ordered some stuff).

http://www.wrighttool.com/default.aspx