sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

okay i have been thinking of getting my engine rebuilt and transmission replaced at the same time i have the 93gxe and dont feel comfortable with swaps unless i can do them myself so i wont be doing the VE5 swap anytime soon ive been looking into "performance" rebuilds im in the northeast so my options are extremely limited but here's wat i am planning so far

i plan on pulling the engine and tranny myself and having the engine shipped to import performance parts in NH for about $2800 and ordering a new transmission from import performance transmissions in NJ for about $3000

now when i have them installed im considering taking it to a tuning garage for an ECU upgrade and to do the drop (hopefully powerwash the engine bay as well) but i dont know anything about ecu's and dont know how much it could cost or if its even necessary

I figure with proper maintenance i should get an extra 200k miles minimum on my 144k car as well as the performance increase which should be extremely noticeable

so does anyone have any experience with these companies or maybe could recommend a better one if so what kind of performance increase did you see? also since making a car faster usually effects the reliability and longevity of the vehicle will a performance engine and tranny dramatically decrease the life of my engine and also is an ecu upgrade necessary?

engine
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ (click services)

transmission
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/nissanauto.shtml

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

give me your money.

those prices are all too high. you can get a VG auto for $1000, NEW, from some warehouse that someone else here bought one from. at 144k or whatever you shouldn't have that bad of an engine. just put cams (i'm thinking JWT makes these for VG30E) in it and get the head checked out and touched up as needed. and get a JWT ecu.

burhan92SE

dyam thats alot of money u r throwing there bud....u can get low mil 3rd gen for about $900 buks....i got my 1992 maxima se VE for $900 buks at 89000 milage ...the guy was russian and own a car junk yard...maxima was parked there...(not in junk yard cars) he was drunk i jus gave him $900 cash and hes like take the car....lol...well i hope u get lucky like that too....but trust me u r far better gettin the maxima with low mil and then tunning it up...gud luck...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Problem is when your done spending $7,000 and get hit. The insurance will only pay you maybe $2000 when the car is deemed a total.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is there no way to indicate to your insurance company (by way of recepits, perhaps) of stuff done that would cause the car to be of higher value? Like if you have expensive rims or something of that sort... can you insure the add-ons either as part of the car, or separately?

question to OP: do you have any details on this supposed "added performance" or do you just assume that it will be faster just because it costs more? what details about the rebuilt engine can you provide that are different from stock, that would make the performance difference, in your own words, "extremely noticeable"?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

There is way to bump the value up slightly more. But there is almost no way to get $7,000 back on a $2,000 car. No way. Unless he put some extra rider on the policy.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

thats way too much money for a rebuild and a new tranny. i got my low mileage motor for only $400 and then converted my car to a 5speed for as little as $250. i sourced all my parts and did it on my own and did this back in '05 and the car is still running like a champ. mind you the body itself is close to 300,000 miles but my engine and tranny still have low miles. good luck in what you do.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well, what i'm doing is putting a 240k motor that runs BETTER than my unknown-miles non-matching motor into my car... which has 167k on the chassis. but i found a good set of injectors that the lowest is 12.40 ohm and the highest is 12.55 ohm... so that should be good. and i have a brand new clutch (been in for a month and a half) and i'm going to be doing a custom-geared tranny to top it off, and eventually a JWT cam/ecu package for a little extra kick. I don't see any forced induction in my near future.. but the cost for all that will be well under $500 from this point (lots of the money i've put into that project thus far was for tools, but i'm using those tools on more than one car so it's not so bad)

MaximaN00b

$2700 and they use YOUR stock piston&rods? Umm.. i agree with everyone else, thats too damn expensive..

If youre gonna rebuild the engine and change the tranny, why not put in the VE30 motor with the LSD tranny to match?

OR since you got all that money to blow, find a place that will rebuild your VG AND, turbo it? and then get a transmission + axles that can handle all the new whp..
+ Id say upgraded suspension would be nice to extend the life.. idk..

3g94MaxGXE

Way too expensive, I'd pay maybe $500 for a used engine. I really think the VE5 tranny would be more worth the money than a plain old VG5 with no LSD or the short living autos. I'm with N00b here, with that kind of money to burn you could find a used turbo and fab up a nice turbo kit.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

alright the reason why im spending so much is because ive already dropped around $5000 on rebuilding the "salt state" rusted out undercarriage every suspension and braking part have been replaced sometimes twice

so far my engine is beautiful i haven't had a single problem with it since i got it its been all maintenance but my transmission is starting slip and it went into fail safe mode once already. so i take my transmission to get flushed and no mechanic will touch it tellin me that i should just rebuild it because i have no clue how the previous owner maintained it

i was considering blowin it all on a VE 5speed tranny swap but thats lookin more complicated everyday so since the weak part on this car is the transmission i might as well get the best one i can (even if it is auto) it ended up being cheaper then what i had planned on the MT swap so i looked into getting the strongest internals for the enginethat i would need for a turbo setup

thats when i got confused about the ecu if i did the engine later and the transmission now then the ecu might not be as efficient as if i had did everything all at once. but i dont know to what percentage or if its even enough to make a difference, but at the same time ecu seems to be more related to a turbo setup than any other mod you could do so i should probably wait for that before even touching it

so i came to the org

i know the engine doesn't need it but i cant think of anything better then internal work when it comes to improving an engine the best part about the VG apparently is the the rods and the crankshaft your only choices are pauter billet rods other wise their weaker than stock. I dont really know the benefits about the "performance" transmission thats why im hopin someone here does

but heres the what the engine rebuild includes


Nissan 12V SOHC V6 2960cc
-----------------------------------------
EKD26MPX Maxima / 200SX / PU 2WD & 4WD / 300ZX (84-3/87)
EKD26LMPX 300ZX / 200SX / Maxima / PU / Pathfinder (4/87-89)
EKD26BMPX Maxima (89-94)
EKD26BMPX PU / Pathfinder 4x4 / PU RWD (90-95)
EKD26BRMPX 300ZX Turbo (84-89)Engine
CodeStock
BoreIncludes:Kit #/PriceVG30E/i87mm Complete Gasket Set
Copper Performance Head Gasket
ROSS/Wiseco Performance Pistons
(87, 87.5, 88mm) and
(8.5-1, 9-1, 10-1 comp)
Performance Rings
Performance Wrist Pins
TOGA HP Main Bearings
TOGA HP Rod Bearings
Additional Parts Available (not included in HP Kit):
Eagle Rods '90 + up for 300ZX Maxima - Add $465
Pauter RodsEKD26MPX
EKD26LMPX
EKD26BMPX
EKD26BRMPX
$1199
----------------------
Following Kits w/TOGA HV Oil Pump
EKD26MPXG (84-3/87)
$1295
EKD26LMPXG (4/87-89)$1295
EKD26BMPXG (89-94 Maxima)
$1295
EKD26BMPXG (90-95 PU/Pathfinder)
$1345
EKD26BMPXG (90-93 only PU RWD)
$1295EKD26BRMPXG (300ZX Turbo)
$1395


Blue Print and Square
Main Lines Checked
Pressure Test
Cleaning
We Bore Block (.020 and .040 typical)
Deck
Freeze Plugs Installed
Crank checked (if grinding required add $80)

It is then reassembled with crank, rods, forged pistons, performance racing rings and bearings.
If block needs Idler, Cam and counterweight bearings $112

burhan92SE

i m lookin forward to do the same thing with my 1992 VE automatic but i have no CLUE where to start....

burhan92SE

theres no price for enthusiasm

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

dude. tranny swap is easy. I did it myself. at night and in the cold. very little of the work was performed during daylight hours.

you wouldn't be blowing "all" your money on a VE5 swap. you can get everything you need (including an exedy stage 1 clutch) for under $1000. even with brand-new axles.

our ECUs suck for the most part. get standalone fuel controller or a JWT ECU. Worry about the turbo when the time comes for that. there is a bunch more power to be had by tuning alone. and get more aggressive cams. that's free power right off the bat. i forget how much tuning has to be done to get cams to work tho.

as for the "performance" tranny... if you don't know why the "performance" tranny is better than don't buy it. I can take a **** in a can and say it's 'performance urine' and sell it to you for 3x the normal going rate for manure and you'd just buy it? hell no! unless you can say what is actually so great about the performance tranny then get a regular tranny or do a 5spd swap. after doing it once, I could do it again with my eyes closed *metaphor*

and if your engine runs great already.... then just leave it be! other than the cams and tuning upgrades. but as for the block and that stuff... at 144k it's still in good shape unless the PO just never changed the oil or something.

nismax1994

someone needs to give this engine a try:

http://www.hekimianracing.com/nissan3lna.html

3g94MaxGXE

Meh that one may have 300hp but it doesn't make it till 7000rpm and peak torque is at 5500rpm. You may as well be driving a Honda CRX with a B16.

VG30DETT makes the same power with turbos and doesn't have to hit 7000rpm to make it. So idk why you'd pay big money to get that from a naturally aspirated engine that's characteristics strongly resemble Honda's.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well the important thing is how much HP/Tq does it make at 5200 and 2800 respictively, ie, what improvement does it have in the lower ranges?

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

so nobody thinks any of these mods to automatic tranny will make it better than a VE5

Valve bodies are calibrated to provide firm, positive shifts
Extra forward, reverse and high clutches are installed
Modified OEM solenoid assembly is installed
Lube system is redesigned to prevent geartrain failure and to increase lube flow
Large apply area factory servo is installed to provide maximum band holding capacity (where applicable)
New one-way clutches/sprags are installed
High volume pump slide spring is installed (where applicable)
Planetary splines are heat treated to prevent stripping
Planetary pinion pins are welded to eliminate pin "walk-out"

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

depends what you mean by 'better'. if they really do a great job of all that, then it's going to be a stronger automatic. BUT... in terms of pure performance and drivetrain losses? the manual will be better for the latter, and at worst, dead-even on the former. plus will your a/t have VLSD or something like that? and are you going to use a different-spec torque converter or a stock 2300-stall one?

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Ever heard of collector car insurance?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well... i wouldn't think that a company would validate a Maxima as a 'collector car'. A Datsun 260z, absolutely. But a Nissan Maxima? Or will they insure anything as long as you pay them?

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

it wont have VLSD i didn't think it was possible on this tranny but i will have a high stall i dont have the specs on it but its only promising .5 off et so im not worried about it plus im not looking to grind gears and beat 1/4 mile times i wanna street car that will last long burn rubber and go over 130mph if my engine has more high end then my tranny can even handle than i think i should improve high end performance on the tranny now if an automatic built up like that can handle higher speeds by sacrificing the acceleration of a stock manual than ill stick with auto

also didn't get the whole former and latter thing

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

"performance" was the former, "drivetrain losses" was the latter.

anyhow, first of all, it's illegal to speed so why do you care about a fast car to street with? the manual can still handle more power than a built auto. dunno what you mean about grinding gears... unless you're a total retard, you won't grind gears when driving a stick. .5sec improvement from ANY single part off the ET is a HUGE improvement. so don't say "only .5sec" as if you're disappointed. manual will still probably outlast the built auto, especially if you plan to drive the car hard.

basically, given your goals for the car, not only are you contradicting yourself left and right, you're looking in the wrong direction, unless the issue is that you can't or don't want to drive a stick.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

and the stock ecu only allows a max speed of 125? I haven't seen you say you would be getting an ecu, only taking it to a shop, and so far, no shop I have ever seen can tune an ecu like ours. you can get it reflashed, and I wouldnt trust anyone other than a reputable servicer (JWT, and has anyone else had experience with somebody else?)

since I am here, where is the leading cause of failure on a vg auto? since I dont have one, I havent bothered to care...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://a19.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/...5c4afe50ea.png

my maxima disagrees with you. this was taken on tuesday.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

There's no max speed on our cars. the VG auto simply runs out of ***** at 125mph. published top speed of the car is 126mph IIRC.

lots of shops can tune VG ECUs. you have to put in an aftermarket chip and then tune it, but it's possible. but it's not cheap either. not your weekender project.

VG autos die usually by the solenoids sticking and letting the clutches slip. they slip too much and then they burn up. the torque convertor also has a tendency to die in them.

modified VB for firmer shifts and stronger clutch bands are the order of the day there.. high stall TC doesn't hurt either, but makes driving around town a bit less fuel efficient.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

You realize the stock speedo is off by about 20mph at those speeds, don't you? you're probably doing more like 105-110.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Wouldn't that fall under extra rider? I guess if the car qualifies good for him.

usually the car has to be 25 years old and be driven on a very limited basis. Does this sound like he would qualify?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well it was well over 4000 in 5th. i dunno exactly what that translates to. are there any good ways to make a stock gauge more accurate? both tach and speedo?

and yea my tc is what i believe failed on mine, since it just snapped into 'neutral' and never caught a gear no matter what you did to the shifter.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

so which mod will allow the highest top speed if ECU is swapped at same time and tuned to match VGauto build-up or VE5 stock swap

watch yourself dont make me start scanin speeding tickets

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

no matter how you slice it the VGLSD5 will be faster. period. you may be slow as a driver, but the car itself will be faster if driven properly.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

alright ive made my decision ive decided to go ahead with a the ve5 w/vlsd swap ill get a fidanza flywheel and leave the rest stock ive also decided to leave the engine be for now but since i have to remove the cat ill be replacing the whole exhaust with warpspeeds kit and ill be getting pacesetter headers to match (importperformanceparts) has headers for about $150 cheaper then the retail site

ill wait for the ECU for when i rebuild and machine the engine i also got an email saying the rebuild kit by itslef with a normal rebuild will give 30-40hp without heads,cams,intakes,or valves being upgraded so since i was expecting about double that i got no problem waiting

i just wanna say thanks to everybody who helped me make this decison ill be posting as many pics and videos as i can but since ive never done this before i still need as many writeups on the project as i can get (eachones a lil different) so please if u know a good one please post it

also i will be driving a purple civic with a full 85 on the dash while im doing the project so please for the love of god help me get back into my max as soon as possible

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I wouldnt waste any money on anything pacecetter. they usually end up as crap (or the people who dont have problems never say anything)
other than that, I hope this setup works well for ya.
as you can see, there are many people willing to help out.

I was just wondering, the people who say "30-40 hp", are they the same as the link from the first post?

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

really worst i found about pacesetter was the paint wasn't high temp paint and i might wanna sandblast and repaint thats all
and yeah same company from first post says if you do a basic rebuild using their high priced kit you'll see 30-40hp

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

may as well go ahead and get the ECU if your current engine runs properly on all 6 cylinders. if you have bad injectors just put in some new injectors from Brian... unless there's a major problem with the engine then you'll like what you see from the JWT ECU even before your motor gets rebuilt. And don't forget to get a step-above-stock clutch (ex. Exedy Stage1) to match that fidanza flywheel.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

well if u think i should upgrade to a better clutch when i do the swap then why should i go with exedy i was looking at the fidanza kevlar clutch also how should i go about the ecu should i take in for tuning or can i hook up my laptop and learn how to tune myself or should i just bolt-on and leave tuning for when i do some engine work?
and yeah 20k old injectors done w/ a nitrogen flush ill test the compression but it should be fine

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

exedy Stg1 is just an example. you can use the fidanza one, or whatever you want... my main point was just to use something that's better than OE spec (ie a performance clutch). Search around on here and you'll find a few names of good clutches to use.

JWT ECU is just a pnp ecu i think. you ship your old one back to them as a core. Nistune is user-tuneable via USB on a laptop.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

holy **** please tell me nistune isnt the easiest system just readin the direction of how to install made me think that layin a finger on my ecu is gonna break the whole car. i think ill stick pnp JWT ill delay a user-tuneable ECU for turbo also how would shipping my old core back to them work if they have different ecu's for manual and a/t

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the jwt is a reprog'd stocker. as for the nistune, the more complex it is, the more tunability you would have. if you never track the car, this shouldn't be necessary. if you think you'd need/want the nistune, there are people who will install the chip for you. a couple are listed on the nistune site(workshops link, guy in tx on the very bottom).
for the price, that'd be the route i'd take. jwt is kinda a one shot deal (you need to tweak it, you send it back) from what I understand.

there are other ECUs, so I am sure caped just used those two as examples.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

JWT tunes ECUs people send to them. you can avoid the core charge by sending your own ECU to them to tune. otherwise they find one that's already on their shelf that someone else sent them as a core, match it to your year/engine/tranny/emissions and send it to you. so your core ecu will go to someone else in the future.