shoult

iTrader: (1)

Actually, you can get an "Agreed Value" policy that will do what he wants. However, they will get you with the premium you have to pay. It's NOT cheap!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ie insure it regular, and just stash some money on the side just in case. if nothing happens, you've got a little buffer. if something does, you have enough to cover it. because with such high premiums you'll have paid the whole value of the car to the insurance company before long, at which point they have nothing to lose.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

dont really care about insurance on this car thats why im building a car instead of buying a new one everytime they add a new bell or whistle i like saving my money and spending it when my car breaks insurance is a global scam for lazy people who aren't good with money thats why i have the least insurance allowable by law and thats why they still think my car is worth 800 bucks

i build cars i dont buy em

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

alright heres an update on my transmission project ive decided to buy a parts car to take care of the whole thing i can get a pretty good deal at auctions but tickets are a hundred bucks and i cant see the majority of the cars because only people with a dealers liscence can see all of them so a dealer i know is gonna help me find a VE with low mileage and no features

now when i get the transmission out i am getting the aluminum fidanza flywheel but i also wanna get the fidanza clutch the problem is that they have 4 different sets for our car and the prices dont go from better to worst i was considering getting the kevlar clutch when i realized that the ceramic is 80 bucks cheaper i was hoping someone could explain what the differences between them are

i will be upgrading the ECU with nistune and i was wondering if their was any additional things i would need to support a "type1"

also an oil cooler just to make sure this never happens again

after that i will be maintaining it the best i can until i need a serious rebuild at that time i would send it to the transmission shop in my first post for a rebuild it they will rebuild the VE5 speed as long as you send them the core so it will be 2000+ i have to save up for so ill throw a custom shifter and shiftplate just to show off all the ****in money i blew on it
but tell me which clutch i should get especially if u have had one of them
275 ECU

346- composite
431 kevlar
353? ceramic
518- sintered iron

375 flywheel
100 transmission cooler
1000 parts VE
500 tools and **** up insurance

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

trans cooler wont be necessary for the manual tranny.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

thanks see thats the kind of mistake thats forcing me to buy a transmission textbook before i do this project

i will be adding an exedy master and slave cylinder since their only 20 bucks

but just too let everybody know i will have a parts car that im gonna be chopping and selling for parts so if anyoone is interested let me know im not lookin to make a profit (who thinks i can make 1000 back on a perfectly good 93 w/o a transmission)

also what would be the best tranny to look for should i get the same year or the 94 is there a 300zx or pathfinder that uses the same or better transmission that will fit or should i stick with the 93VE hunt?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

any ve manual tranny would work, but the pathy/zx trans wont work, because they are rwd or 4wd(using a rwd trans + x-fer case).
and +1 on the exedy find, unless you are factoring in a difference between a new/rebuilt unit(from autozone, etc.), if you find a parts car, it would have these parts for free. they usually dont fail, like a brake mc or sc.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats what i thought just wanted to make sure im getting the best one that wil fit
i felt the same way about the mc&sc but 20 bucks for the insurance that i wont have to replace em later is more then worth it

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

alright now while im shopping for a parts car i gotta buy a new exhaust system mines rotted out i have always planned to get warpspeed w/pacesetter headers but now im not sure warpspeed will pass emissions, the catco cat option will clear but what about the rest of the pipe makes it passable or not

i want a great exhaust (dont give a **** about sound) but unfortunately need to get my car registered and need to pass emissions my engine should be fine but i dont wanna get a factory exhaust system. headers seem to be a real problem im not sure which will pass because i didn't know headers could effect emissions and pacesetter seems to have pissed off alot of guys here

so who has passed emissions with warpspeed and what headers do you recommend buying also where can i find a deal on headers?

3g94MaxGXE

The y-pipe shouldn't hurt emissions. Just make sure your EGR, O2 sensor, cats, injectors, etc. work and you should be fine. As far as headers go keep the stock exhaust manifolds or have something custom fabbed for you, that's pretty much our only options.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

okay heres an update on my project ive decided to go phatsta's tranny write-up since it seems to be the most detailed even though he said it took him 5 days too do
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2
apparently he says that upgrading the ECU is not necessary unless your swapping the engine so scratch that off my list

i will be askin him for as many photos as i can get as well as the shopping lists for tools and parts

the exhaust is still waiting for headers that aren't worse than my own

i got into a small accident and bent a spindle so luckily my axles are insured so its just the cost of the tire

i found someone else on the org that basically did the same thing to his engine he bored it ported and polished as well as all the other stuff that im planning on doing he did it to a VE and i cant wait till he dynoes it Remanufactured engine

i still cant find a parts car i went to the auction and wasted 100 bucks on a ticket just to find 1 VE and i let it go to someone else for 1300 cuz my dealer freind said there were more coming and this one was already running too high turns out the rest were all VG MT and i decided to let them all slide

im thinking of just buying the tranny and parts seperately but i really think i can do the swap and make a profit by selling the individual parts on the parts car but i may just have to give in

i think i have everything covered already but any advice would be greatly appreciated and again thanks to everybody whos decided to help me out on this one

also still cant find any maxima reviews for the fidanza clutch set does anyone have this on their car?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

who said that? phasta? if you want higher performance still get an upgraded ECU. he just meant you don't need to swap the ECU for a auto-to-manual swap unless you use a different year engine (because a few things change sometime during the generation iirc)

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

well what do you mean by higher performance if its just an ordinary mod then i can delay it but if its necessary i might still do it but i dont understand how the swap would benefit are you talking about the benefits of an upgraded ECU or would there be a benefit from swapping the AT ECU with the manual one

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the jwt ecu is an upgrade. it is a reprogrammed oem ecu, for better performance. no need for it, but it is just an upgrade, like a vlsd, or cai

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

is there anyway of removing the rev limiter i forgot that was the whole reason for doing the ECU (thats why its good to keep all this **** written down)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

3 different scenarios here.

1) you are tired of a stupid slushbox tranny, or your stupid slushbox tranny died, so you want a manual now. so you do a 5spd swap. you just care about the car running, not about adding HP or anything. leave the auto ECU in there and don't bother taking the TCU out either. Just do the tranny swap and drive happy. this is what I did. you do NOT need the m/t ECU for the car to run properly as long as you leave your engine in the car.

2) you swap engines when doing the tranny swap, or even just swap engines from a DIFFERENT YEAR maxima. You will want to year-match your engine to your ECU. a few changes did happen, particularly concerning emissions, and it's important to make sure everything matches up so you don't throw random CELs, or have strange behavior for the ECU searching for some sensor that doesn't exist on a certain engine package from a certain year/emissions spec. Whether doing a tranny swap with the engine swap or not.. match the year up properly.

3) you want more performance out of your car. get a JWT, Nistune, or whatever-flavor tuned ECU. this will, if your car/engine is properly maintained (hoses, sensors, injectors, gaskets all good to go) add HP. end of story. manual and auto ECUs are slightly different in their tuning, yes, but for the average tranny-swapper it won't matter. for a performance-mindset, it might... and it's best to just get the right one anyhow.

why in the hell would you want to raise the rev limiter on a VG???? top HP is at 5200 and rev limiter is 6250 (power output is down to like 120hp or less at this point, just so you know)

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

sorry not rev limiter i meant top speed limiter and i do understand that the tranny will work without the ECU but what im concerned about is that the tranny and the ECU are preventing the engine from reaching its true potential

my engine is fine its the stuff aroud it thats ****in it up

is there a way to remove the top speed limiter if not i will be going with nistune (i think i just got excited that i could subtract 300 bucks from the list and i got carried away)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the only top speed limiter is horsepower. the stock ECU, whether automatic- or manual-transmission spec, will prevent the engine from reaching its full potential.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean by "the only limiter is horsepower" i thought the stock ecu's prevented the engine from going past a certain speed with a "top speed limiter" thats why JWT says they remove it

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the faster you go, the more power it takes to maintain speed or accelerate. with aerodynamics, and other friction (tires, mostly), as well as weight, all being factors on the required hp.
supposedly, the stock ecu limits the top speed. there are a few people with stock ecus that have exceeded the maximum of that limiter.
with the top speed limiter removed, you would be able to go as fast as you want, but really, when does anyone have a chance to go over 125 (where the limiter is supposed to be, or thereabouts)?
fastest I have ever taken my car was 106, which was recorded by gps, and my speedo registered about 120ish.

I think what caped was trying to say is that the jwt will open the car to accept more power, easier. he'll be back soon to explain himself better.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is there any reliable way to truly calibrate a stock gauge? resistor or something?

burhan92SE

i did 206KM on my VE yesterday at night time...i would have topped out the meter to 240km if there wasnt a red light....

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no.
the way they are designed, they will be accurate at one speed and the farther from that speed you get the more inaccurate they become.
FWIW a gps is not 100% accurate either. I've had them tell me I'm going 2mph when I am standing still.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

uhhh dropping 7k into a turd gen is silly. just drive the damn thing it will last forever.
drop 7k on a 15k car and take out a 8k loan.
or buy a 5.5 for 10k and spend 2k in mods loan out for 5k.
you know something FUN like that.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

jeez. that's a lame way to design something. is it the gauge's fault or the VSS's fault though?

3g94MaxGXE

Dropping 7K in a 2K car is worth it as long as you get more of what you want for less. You could drop 7K into a third gen and make over 500hp and I have my doubts you got make the same kind of power with a 7K car and 2K cash

As far as I'm concerned 7K is too much for my car for some major rebuild or what not but over the course of my lifetime I'm hoping to keep my third gen running and I've probably dropped at least $750 into it in 2-3 years so in 20 years if I still have the Maxima I'm sure I'll have spent $7000 on it not including gas.

I haven't driven a 5.5 but from its specs and appearance I would expect worse visibility, worse handling and not that much improvement in anything else for the price.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

im sorry i just had to laugh at this guy



any way chrisgregg is going turbo so he sold me his manifolds to replace my cracked ones ive decided to paint and wrap them i found a company stating that their wraps will reduce "under hood heat by 50%-70%" so ill buy their paint as well wich is good for 1500 degrees so after all that i should have way better headers than pacesetter for about 1/4 the price
http://www.designengineering.com/

ill take pictures of the entire exhaust once its finished but does anyone have any advice for wrapping or even a company thats got a better product for cheaper? also is it true black high temp paint works better than anyother color?

LvR

Mechanical guages are designed/calibrated like that in industry - often the absolute accuracy is expressed as a % of full scale reading - ie - the meter is actually typically worse the further away you are from full scale.

Digital meters normally have an accuracy expressed as a percentage of the reading plus/minus a few digits.

Brian is right wrt GPSs - currently, the best expected positional uncertainty on modern units without WAAS is around 2m so its quite conceivable (and to be expected) to find the GPS reporting you moving around when you are in fact lying down in a drunken stupor. GPS units are however way more accurate (speed/distance) than just about any mechanical instrument you have on any vehicle and I would certainly believe a GPS above the Max's speedo anytime

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

why don't they make them always-accurate then?

LvR

Better at what?

If you are talking reducing the exhaust manifold temps then yes - black (matte finish is better than gloss) surfaces emit a lot more heat into the surrounding air than any other color.

If you are talking reducing under hood temps then no - for the same obvious reason.

I would chose a white/ceramic finish as I would like to keep the under hood temps down and as much heat as possible in the exhaust personally

LvR

Life's a ***** - the absolute only certain thing in life is that you will die - no measurement is 100% accurate due to uncertainties associated with each and every measurement ................. believe me or pick your choice of reading matter

Also - the price/effort/complexity difference between a 10% and a 1% meter for a particular application is often prohibitive - eg - your local air/tyre temp and pressure variations alone often guarantee your inability to express any speed/distance measurement with any analogue meter with any certainty close to 100%

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

heh, true.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

hmmm for 7k you can't have a reliable turd gen over 500whp. sorry. also it's never been done except by race teams(who use the engine not the car). who spend much more then 7k. and if you did have 500whp you wouldn't be able to hook it up it and it would be useless for anything other then 1/4 drag.

Also one idiot who just taps your car with his will take that car away from you. it isn't worth ****. i know i own one. you also will not own it for 20 more years i don't care what you say. thus dumping a large amount of cash into it is a BAD financial move. i mean maybe if you wanted to make it into a dedicated autoX or 1/4 drag but who wants to autoX or drag with 4 doors and FWD? no offense to the guys on here that do you do amazing things with the maximas. BUT you can buy better cars for the same price for those applications which you can drop more fun engines into easily, have many more mods availible, and do it all cheaper and easier, etc.

oh! and a 5.5 will destroy a turd gen stock for stock in the 1/4 and on an oval...oh and on a autoX course(debatable only depending on how the course is set up). all while getting better MPG on the highway. on top of that its a MUCH more luxurious ride inside and out. i know you may hate to admit it...



sleepyvg30e: laugh all you want. you don't paint header wrap. newb. and painting the rest of your exhaust is stupid. you want to use the HT silicon spray DEI offers over the wrap to help 'seal' it. also wrapping stock manis even if you port them are nothing compared to the gains of REAL headers. and using wrap reduces the life of your exhaust by about 3-4x as fast as it normally would have lasted, while the performance gain is small. like small



i'm not trying to start an argument here guys just pointing out plain facts.



edit: a tranny cooler isn't $100 bucks more like 30. and why do you need a crazy beefed up clutch unless you are FI? it's a waste...or doing a crap ton of launches at the track...

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

if the op didn't care what other people thought he wouldn't make threads about it now would he augiedog964? from his 1st post it sounds like he's about to make a HUGE mistake, thus why members have chimed in about it. see how he thought he could make his car put down 500whp with 7k? now he knows better. this is all a learning experience...that being said...

thanks for coming in today!





fail.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

first off dont wanna paint the whole system just the headers im getting a warpspeed y-pipe also i dont know if already know this but VG's only option is pacesetter or stock so wrapping seems to be the only way to actually improve stock manifold except for buying custom made headers

also how fast do they reduce the life of the manifold if they only reduce it by 4x then im paying 1/4 that of pacestter so im happy with that math


and concerning all the other stuff you said leave it out of my thread start a "why i hate third gens" thread of your own dont get my **** locked for your stupid *** argument

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

limitations of technology. it affects pretty much every car out there.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

sorry. i <3 my turd gen!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

he never said anything of the sort. he's simply demonstrating his ability to apply common sense. something you rather clearly lack.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

nah **** that dude if he wants to argue why im stupid for fixin up my car the way i am let him do it on his own thread this is exactly the type of negative **** that seems to make the moderators lock threads if u think im wrong make thread with that argument and see how long it takes before it gets locked

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you're reading stuff he never said... he never said what you think he said. he just stated the obvious. a 500whp FWD car is almost undriveable in normal street conditions, and would eat your tires up like Krispy Kremes. If you are so confident you can spend 7k and get a 500whp 3rd gen and NOT crash it, then shut your butthurt mouth and go do it instead of starting arguments (yes. you are the instigator) and begging to get your thread locked (yes, it will be your fault when it is). You should have lurked more, and seen why it is that big talkers aren't nearly as appreciated as silent doers.