Exhaust Studs
05-29-2008, 07:05 PM
#41
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
The studs don't break off because they're too weak. The studs are breaking off because they were installed improperly at the factory.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.
05-29-2008, 07:21 PM
#42
05-29-2008, 07:41 PM
#43
they've been prone to breaking on these cars since they were NEW, not just the last few months. I replaced mine ten years ago and installed them properly and haven't had a problem since.
05-29-2008, 07:45 PM
#44
He's the same dumb@*** that couldn't figure out how to drain coolant isn't he...
STUDS are not a wear and tear item. BRAKE PADS ARE.
05-29-2008, 08:06 PM
#45
anyways how do you install them without them bottoming out during the tq-down process? by putting the short side in? (or was it already short-side in?.. hm i forget now)
05-29-2008, 08:33 PM
#46
Yeah.. I thought the dumbarse was already handled. Guess I'm going to have to take care of him myself. :grumble:
edit... there. fixed.
short side of the stud is what was in from the factory. doesn't really matter either way since both sides are long enough to do either end of the job.
the torque required to screw the studs into the head is more than it takes to run the nuts down...
What I did was double-nut them and run them in using that, then remove the nuts, put the gasket and manifold on, then run the nuts down. voila.
my scanner **** itself tonight, but if you guys wanna see what I'm talking about, look for Carroll Smith's Engineer To Win. Go to page 142 in the threaded fasteners section. the figures of what NOT to do are exactly how the OEM studs are installed in the car.
edit... there. fixed.
short side of the stud is what was in from the factory. doesn't really matter either way since both sides are long enough to do either end of the job.
the torque required to screw the studs into the head is more than it takes to run the nuts down...
What I did was double-nut them and run them in using that, then remove the nuts, put the gasket and manifold on, then run the nuts down. voila.
my scanner **** itself tonight, but if you guys wanna see what I'm talking about, look for Carroll Smith's Engineer To Win. Go to page 142 in the threaded fasteners section. the figures of what NOT to do are exactly how the OEM studs are installed in the car.
Last edited by Matt93SE; 05-29-2008 at 08:40 PM.
05-29-2008, 08:45 PM
#47
Yeah.. I thought the dumbarse was already handled. Guess I'm going to have to take care of him myself. :grumble:
edit... there. fixed.
short side of the stud is what was in from the factory. doesn't really matter either way since both sides are long enough to do either end of the job.
the torque required to screw the studs into the head is more than it takes to run the nuts down...
What I did was double-nut them and run them in using that, then remove the nuts, put the gasket and manifold on, then run the nuts down. voila.
my scanner **** itself tonight, but if you guys wanna see what I'm talking about, look for Carroll Smith's Engineer To Win. Go to page 142 in the threaded fasteners section. the figures of what NOT to do are exactly how the OEM studs are installed in the car.
edit... there. fixed.
short side of the stud is what was in from the factory. doesn't really matter either way since both sides are long enough to do either end of the job.
the torque required to screw the studs into the head is more than it takes to run the nuts down...
What I did was double-nut them and run them in using that, then remove the nuts, put the gasket and manifold on, then run the nuts down. voila.
my scanner **** itself tonight, but if you guys wanna see what I'm talking about, look for Carroll Smith's Engineer To Win. Go to page 142 in the threaded fasteners section. the figures of what NOT to do are exactly how the OEM studs are installed in the car.
that's how i installed mine. double nut, torque, remove nuts, install manifold, put nuts on with 5lbs less torque than the studs got. can you just... describe the factory method and let us picture it in our heads?
05-29-2008, 09:07 PM
#48
I dunno how the factory puts them in, but they run them in until the shoulder is seated against the head.
that creates a fracture-prone area at the shoulder, focusing all the stress on the weakest part of the stud... so when it breaks off, it breaks off just below the surface of the head- which is where I've seen the fracture point on every single one of the broken studs on a Maxima.
Simply a manufacturing mistake that costs everyone in the long run.
that creates a fracture-prone area at the shoulder, focusing all the stress on the weakest part of the stud... so when it breaks off, it breaks off just below the surface of the head- which is where I've seen the fracture point on every single one of the broken studs on a Maxima.
Simply a manufacturing mistake that costs everyone in the long run.
05-29-2008, 09:17 PM
#49
I dunno how the factory puts them in, but they run them in until the shoulder is seated against the head.
that creates a fracture-prone area at the shoulder, focusing all the stress on the weakest part of the stud... so when it breaks off, it breaks off just below the surface of the head- which is where I've seen the fracture point on every single one of the broken studs on a Maxima.
Simply a manufacturing mistake that costs everyone in the long run.
that creates a fracture-prone area at the shoulder, focusing all the stress on the weakest part of the stud... so when it breaks off, it breaks off just below the surface of the head- which is where I've seen the fracture point on every single one of the broken studs on a Maxima.
Simply a manufacturing mistake that costs everyone in the long run.
05-29-2008, 09:46 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2v0zzbc&s=3
pic of studs / gasket
pic of studs / gasket
05-31-2008, 09:05 AM
#53
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 13
Just found this for anyone else in need of bolts/gasket.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...ayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...ayphotohosting
05-31-2008, 09:28 AM
#54
Just found this for anyone else in need of bolts/gasket.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...ayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...ayphotohosting
When I did mine in 2003 all new hardware for both sides cost me $19 and change, a pair of exhaust manifold gaskets was under $30. This was all purchased locally at Nissan dealerships.
and asked to send 6more and he said thats cool.
06-05-2008, 12:54 AM
#59
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temple / Austin / Houston - Texas
Posts: 159
The previous owner of my max had to fix a broken stud at around 109k. He broke 2 drill out bits before getting it out and his dad wasted about 700 on rebuilding the VTCs until he found out the real problem on the maxima.org.
The other things Nissan seemed to mess up on are some of the electrics and the foam on my dash is starting to expand at the vents.
The other things Nissan seemed to mess up on are some of the electrics and the foam on my dash is starting to expand at the vents.
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