Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I've pulled my transmission so many times that I've worn out the threads in the block holding the bellhousing on?

only one of the bolts will hold torque anymore, so I'm going to have to pull the damn thing out AGAIN just to helicoil the threads in the block.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Maybe come up with a speed clamp system?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Hey Matt, I've actually got the same problem with one of the bolts for my trans...Bla I'll just retap it or helicoil it once MY 5 Speed is in

LvR

Why pull it? - helicoil that sucker right through the enlarged hole in the bellhousing and use a thin spacer ring in the enlarged hole around the std bolt (if you really really must/want to) ................ 20 minutes max

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Why not try a ARP stud and nut set-up after you helicoil it? Then you won't strip out the block again. Plus the studs will help with alignment.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

almost done helicoiling it. stopped for lunch and a few beers. tapping those holes is a PITA because of all the coolant lines and crap in the way.

in order to get to the holes, you have to pull the tranny. there's not enough aluminum around the bolt holes for me to feel comfortable drilling it out and using a spacer.

putting studs in sounds like a good idea. I might do that next time I pull the tranny

Columbian, I suggest helicoiling all of them while you have it out. if one's gone, the others aren't far behind. I had one when I rebuilt the engine 25,000 miles ago... helicoiled it while I had the engine out of the car. shoulda done them all. grrr.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

same good one is the old helicoiled one, correct?
Ive heard a couple of bad things about helicoils, but i guess it depends on the application, huh?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

yeah it depends on the application, but in a cast iron block or aluminum tranny case (starter and clutch slave holes are helicoiled too), the coils make the joint stronger than the cast metal alone.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

stud and wing nut is what I was thinking.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I need something more like the quick-change wheel hubs on F1 cars. :\

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

studs and Nylock nuts ?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Stop ****ing up your trannies?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I still need to put an isb in mine ..

VEvolution

Cryotreat that beech while it's out. And reinforce the throw-out bearing with endoplasmic titanium carbine.

subs1000w

the only problem i see with studs is that you might have to install and remove the studs everytime inorder to alow the trans to angle and dropdown enough its kinda tight geting it in and out without studs

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Stop by one weekend I can change it. I owes you anyway.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Unpossible..

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Don't see how that would be an issue.
how long is the input shaft on the tranny, and how far does the clutch plate stick out?

pull both tranny mounts completely out and there's plenty of room. especially when using a tranny jack so you don't have to fight it as much.

I don't even pull the pass side axle or my LTB to get it out.. (yeah, I've done it that many times. )


Got the job done about 8pm last night. stopped for a couple hours to watch the last part of the nASScar race and to eat lunch.. took me about 5 hours of actual work, and only because I had to redo a couple of the helicoils since they didn't thread properly. man that was a PITA.

oh well. it's done. max is up and running again. good thing cause I gotta drive it 600 miles to Loserana this afternoon.