maximaman1313

I am going to be pulling my front 3 injectors to check the orings and see if any are cracked or what. they all should be new o-rings. Here is my question. I pulled 1 injector a year or so ago and put new o-rings on it. When I pulled that injector out, the bottom o-ring was cracked.

Now did I crack that o-ring when I pulled it out? Or did I not lub it right when I put it in the first time? Im curious because If I pull the front three and crack the orings pulling them out, Im going to think that they were bad. Im tryin to find a problem I have sometimes when I start the car, It'll be hard to start and sputter up as it spits black smoke out and i smell fuel, but then runs fine after that. thanks

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

You probably ruined in when you installed it and some more when you pulled the injector.

maximaman1313

ya im thinkin when I installed. I just pulled a few from a spare fuel rail I have, and all o-rings were fine, must not be from me pulling them out.

What should I use to lube the o-rings? motor oil? petroleum jelly? I've heard both, and is that the jelly you buy in grocery stores?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

are you talking about having pulled the injector a year ago or just recently?

maximaman1313

i pulled 1 a year ago because i when put in 2 years ago the o-ring, or at least I thought, was bad. so when i pulled it a year ago and replaced orings, it was bad when i pulled it out. was just making sure it was acutaly bad before i pulled it. im having same problem i was having back then, so im thinking when i originally did it, they weren't lubed enough, i gave them a light coat of oil.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

If you pinched the ring when you installed it, it would have shown signs immediately, not a year later.My guess is you have a bad injector. If you can access the injector in question, stick an ohm meter on it, it should read between 11-14 ohms.

Also, use petroleum jelly on the o'rings, it works better then oil.

maximaman1313

if all injectors ohm O.K. whats best way to check if one is leaking fuel through bad o-ring or the injector is still bad even tho it ohms out? FSM says injector leak code 45 will throw a CEL. I have no CEL on.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Heh...the cel's on these cars rarely show injector codes, they are more of a novelty item.

I have no idea how you would check for a leaking o'rings other than removal and inspection.

Reizy

iTrader: (48)

You will have a drop in fuel pressure with a leaking o-ring. If the car sits it will take longer to crank and build pressure in the rails. Try letting it sit for different periods of time and see how long it takes to start. I know because I had a leaking o-ring and it would take 2-3 seconds longer after the car sat. With all good o-rings it will start the same after sitting for days or 10 minutes. (assuming the rest of the fuel system is tight) Good luck.

maximaman1313

well sometimes after over night, about 12 hours since its been started, it will fire right up. maybe its a bad injector as opposed to a bad oring?

92 Max

Let the car sit until it usually loads up with gas, (and does the black smoke on startup). Then, pull each plug and you'll probably find one soaked with gasoline. That's the bad cylinder.

maximaman1313

ok long story short, I pulled front 3 injectors, 2 bottom o-rings shredded, othe o-ring wasn't sealing right do to pintle cap. I fixed the cap. replaced all o-rings, lubed them up, twist and pushed as far as i could into fuel rail, then bolt on slowly and evenly.

couple questions:

I keep pinching the damn bottom o-ring . Its $13 after tax per o-ring kit per injector. #1 Now can I go to home depot and size match the o-rings and safely use those? #2 or are the fuel injector o-rings special?

Also, please any tips for me to get these damn injectors back in and seated right. #3 Should I remove the fuel rail completely? or maybe im just not strong enough, pretty hard to get these things back in, at least for me.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

do not use home depot o'rings. those are designed for water or non-corrosive fluids. Gasoline is corrosive and needs fuel safe o'rings.

maximaman1313

went to auto parts store got 3 more kits. I pull the injector harness from each front injector 1 by 1 and noticed the #6 didnt change unplugged or plugged in. I ohm'd all injectors, all 11.2. I pulled #6 injector and of course, the bottom o-ring was tore all around. I put new o-ring on. petroleum jelly. and damn near put all my weight into it pushing and twistin and i still cant get it to seat all the way like that. so i put the metal cap on and slowly slowly bolt on to finish seating the injector. and it keeps tearing it.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

try polishing the inside bore where the injector goes. it is possible (though highly unlikely) that something is in there causing the problems

92 Max

I had a similar problem with one of my injectors during reassembly. I had the injectors out of the rail 4 times, due to torn lower "O" rings. I smoothed the rail and lubed up the rings and they still tore. What I finally did was to go and get Nissan "O" rings from the dealer and lubed them with petroleum jelly to put them in, and they finally sealed. The dealer "O" rings seemed slightly harder than the kit ones I got from NAPA.

maximaman1313

so i tried to start it. and I hear a metal like clunk and then nothing..... did fuel dump into the cylinder when i took out injector and put oring and, and now my motor is hydro locked?

tried to start again and i've never seen a seized motor but this looks like one. it gets 1 turn when i get key in, clunk type noise then nothing at all

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I seiously doubt you dumped enough fuel to hydrolock your motor.
Pull ALL your plugs and see if the motor will turn over then.
if you have a VG check to see if the rotor turns or not.
all that being said , a clunk is a VERY bad sign in most cases.
my blazer did that when it was out of oil.

maximaman1313

oil smells of fuel..i let it sit for a while and tried to turn over again, it almost wanted to go but then made a clunk again. gonna drain oil, replace, and i'll pull plugs and try then.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Pull the plugs FIRST before you change the oil. You want to see if you're still dumping gas before you ruin more oil. Make sure the rotor spins when you turn it over. If it doesn't, thats BAD!

maximaman1313

pulled plugs out...and in the one plug hole i was tryin to fix the o-ring, i can see liquid, im guessing fuel inside it, like i shake car and i see it move.... how do I get this out?

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Siphon hose - $5 at pepboys. Or $1 at a Dollar or 99cent store. But if its that flooded you got a real o ring problem.

maximaman1313

hehe I just sihponed out what I could, wasn't as much as I thought...i cranked, and the motor seems to spin, sounds like its spinning just fine...now what? go get o-rings from dealer, and replace those, change oil, then try starting it again?

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Don't skimp on the Vaseline, including inside the rail where the injectors will sit.

maximaman1313

took off injectors, all bottom o-rings were bad...put the o-rings I got from nissan dealership on-cheaper than parts store better quality- I was generous with the jelly and cleaned the rail where they sit and lubed that part up to...I was actually able to push them all, all the way in, it went smooth, could almost feel them seat nicely.

Now since I know my motor spins, should I hook it all back up and try to start it, or should I change the oil, I know has gas in first?

BTW, I HIGHLY reccomend going to the dealer for injector o-rings, I compared to the o-rings I got from auto parts store and they are 200% better quality. I should of went that route in the first place and saved me a 2 day headache.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

With your description of how it went back together (easily) I'd say it would be safe to change the oil now.

maximaman1313

replaced oil, man, it smelled like fuel like crazy, was real thin too. The plugs I had in the front 3 got real fouled up, so Im going to just replace all 6 again.

I got it all back together, fresh oil, nissan o-rings. Started it up, was rough, I almost thought an injector was still leaking. I let it run for about 20minutes, it smoothed out nicely. Took for test spin, runs great, no smoke, good idle now.

THANK YOU EVERYONE. You guys are so hopefully, I greatly appreciate everyones input and advice given me. Thanks. The ve auto is purrin nicely again.