*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

[dadswieser]

So I did a tranny swap on my 1990,SE automatic. Now when I turn the key to acc (just before start position) I can hear what sounds like a pump running in the tranny. Also I see the Power indacator lamp blink 16 times. I can unplug the 8 prong connector from the tranny to the wire harnes and the pump sound stops. Is this gonna be a problem? The car runs out ok but I have felt it slip at high RPM's a few times.

BTW I tried the tranny self check and it didnt work.

[m_williams1218]

Im tryna get this 92' maxima. I would like to know how much it would cost to get the muffler fixed and the power windows fixed because they dont work

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by m_williams1218

Im tryna get this 92' maxima. I would like to know how much it would cost to get the muffler fixed and the power windows fixed because they dont work

well, it all depends on what is wrong with the muffler. if there is a small hole, a muffler shop can potentially fix it in a few minutes, and charge you only a few dollars. if you need the entire exhaust replaced, it could cost you a whole lot more (it also really depends on the muffler shop)

window regulators are fairly easy to replace, ad can be found on ebay for $20-40. so if you are willing to do the work yourself, it won't be too expensive, even if all four are bad. however, a shop could easily charge you an hour for each window, and $120 for each regulator, causing the $$$$ to go up. (it takes nowhere near an hour for each window, but a crooked shop would easily charge that much, and labor is expensive, already)

[sleepyvg30e]

Originally Posted by m_williams1218

Im tryna get this 92' maxima. I would like to know how much it would cost to get the muffler fixed and the power windows fixed because they dont work

heres where u can get regulators for cheap
http://www.am-autoparts.com/ $30-$40 depending on front or rear

mufflers are cheap but check your flex section and exhaust manifold studs as well

[chrome91]

if its just the actual muffler, it wont be much to fix. if its really bad, you can get a new muffler for around $40 and just get the old one cut off and the new one clamped or preferably welded on. if it just has some holes in it, you can buy a patch kit at automotive stores

[sleepyvg30e]

Originally Posted by TLM4590

When I say tune/trick-out (was trying to put in Layman's Terms)
I mean modify in ways that will increase performance or the aesthetics of the car.
Since my 89' Nissan Maxima has an automatic transmission and the SOHC engine, I would like some suggestions on exactly what performance options I have. Please state any cheap ways to gain an extra 10hp or expensive ways to gain even more.

VE 5-speed transmission swap
performance camshafts
turbo

those are the three best mods for real horsepower but they are expensive and complcated

what u want to ask is whats the best way to mod the car with a certain amount of cash and it could help telliin us whats already been replaced and what might break soon....

but yeah ask this guy if he thinks fixing up a 3rd gen is a "dumb question" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eXL6hqQO1Q

[mikeySD]

wheres a good place to get 1994 3rd gen maxima front lips?

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by mikeySD

wheres a good place to get 1994 3rd gen maxima front lips?

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA

[JCS]

Where's the best place to buy a low-mile VE?

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by JCS

Where's the best place to buy a low-mile VE?

there is no such thing as a "best place." if there is, nobody has told me, otherwise I would have one.
your best bet would be to scour your local newspapers, as well as craigslist.

edit: wait... are you talking about a 92-94 SE, or a VE engine?
if its the engine, you are better off rebuilding. there is nearly no such thing as a "low milage," 15 year old engine. if it is low mileage, I would be more worried than if it had, say, 200k on the clock...

[Infam0usMax]

Thinking about the things to come and... just wanted numbers on what its going to take to rebuild the engine in my 92 GXE? I already spent a goodbit to keep it going about $600 as of right now. Also im think im gonna go this week to get the fenders off another max how to take them off?

[Infam0usMax]

Originally Posted by JCS

Where's the best place to buy a low-mile VE?

High doubt that there is a "best place" also but check ebay i saw a few on there today not sure on tha miles tho

[kringle03]

Originally Posted by Infam0usMax

Thinking about the things to come and... just wanted numbers on what its going to take to rebuild the engine in my 92 GXE? I already spent a goodbit to keep it going about $600 as of right now. Also im think im gonna go this week to get the fenders off another max how to take them off?

Front fenders?... a couple of bolts up top under the hood... one or two in the door jam area... and you'll need to separate the fender from the front bumper which is 4 bolts on either side under the fender liner where the bumper and fender meet....

[chrome91]

Originally Posted by JCS

Where's the best place to buy a low-mile VE?

ive found quite a few on ebay before from parts cars with under 100k miles. otherwise try to find a local parts car with low mileage

[JCS]

I already have the '94 SE and the VE in it evidently threw a rod...haven't looked yet. Picked the car up today for $400 bucks.

I just figured i'd get another engine for it because I imagined it'd probably be the cheaper route.

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by JCS

I already have the '94 SE and the VE in it evidently threw a rod...haven't looked yet. Picked the car up today for $400 bucks.

I just figured i'd get another engine for it because I imagined it'd probably be the cheaper route.

ah.
I believe your local junk yard would be the best bet on this.
you should be able to get one (if you can find one) for less than $200, and get that rebuilt.

edit: nice find!

[Mike_D89]

Hi I want to add larger sway bars to my 89 and I was look at just ordering something off of eBay. But before I go and do that I wanted to know if anyone has any input on the subject. So just let me know what worked for you or what didn't, thanks for the help.

[kringle03]

Originally Posted by Mike_D89

Hi I want to add larger sway bars to my 89 and I was look at just ordering something off of eBay. But before I go and do that I wanted to know if anyone has any input on the subject. So just let me know what worked for you or what didn't, thanks for the help.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by BenStoked

there is nearly no such thing as a "low milage," 15 year old engine. if it is low mileage, I would be more worried than if it had, say, 200k on the clock...

truer words have not been spoken.

[94se5spd]

My mass airflow sensor on my 92 VE just went out. Again. I thought I had saw a thread somewhere on this forum (I already did a search) that you could put a Z32 MAF on a VE. If I'am wrong please correct me, but if this is true could you please point me in the right direction.

Thanks

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by 94se5spd

My mass airflow sensor on my 92 VE just went out. Again. I thought I had saw a thread somewhere on this forum (I already did a search) that you could put a Z32 MAF on a VE. If I'am wrong please correct me, but if this is true could you please point me in the right direction.

Thanks

I can't find it either.

I have a good used ve maf for sale if you want it..

[mikeySD]

Originally Posted by Greeny

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA

thanks dude

[TLM4590]

About how much would a 5-speed swap cost?
I appreciate all the input, I had a brother that was into cars alot more than me and would help be unfortunately he is no longer "with us". Im also thinking of maybe having this as a secind car and setting it up in a rally config

[chrome91]

Originally Posted by TLM4590

About how much would a 5-speed swap cost?

really depends how much you can get a new tranny for and if youre doing it yourself or paying for labor

[Infam0usMax]

Ive seen many different springs some are 1.2, 1.5, 2, and I think 2.5" drops my stock springs already have the tires about to touch the body so i know 2.5 would kill it 2 would set me at good point but with the system and people getting in the back from time to time i know 2" would rub like crazy so my question is is 1.5 the way to go with this?

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by Infam0usMax

Ive seen many different springs some are 1.2, 1.5, 2, and I think 2.5" drops my stock springs already have the tires about to touch the body so i know 2.5 would kill it 2 would set me at good point but with the system and people getting in the back from time to time i know 2" would rub like crazy so my question is is 1.5 the way to go with this?

there are no 2.5" that i've heard of but don't go past 1.5 at the most if you value a) your car's ride b) your car's ability to go around a corner without losing control and c) your ability to use a set of tires for more than a few thousand miles

our Macpherson suspensions can't compress more than a few inches before the camber starts becoming positive.... which really hurts the car's ability to corner. because our cars are so old, nobody makes redesigned front control arms w/ extended balljoints (relocated mounting spot for the parallel links in the rear), so there is currently no way to fix this problem unless you are an expert at automotive suspension systems, and can fabricate custom $tuff

therefore, the only reason to go lower than 1.5" is if you are clinically insane, that is, you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion.

[Infam0usMax]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

there are no 2.5" that i've heard of but don't go past 1.5 at the most if you value a) your car's ride b) your car's ability to go around a corner without losing control and c) your ability to use a set of tires for more than a few thousand miles

our Macpherson suspensions can't compress more than a few inches before the camber starts becoming positive.... which really hurts the car's ability to corner. because our cars are so old, nobody makes redesigned front control arms w/ extended balljoints (relocated mounting spot for the parallel links in the rear), so there is currently no way to fix this problem unless you are an expert at automotive suspension systems, and can fabricate custom $tuff

therefore, the only reason to go lower than 1.5" is if you are clinically insane, that is, you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion.

lol thankx for the info yeah I wasnt sure about the 2.5 myself but the others I was what about coilovers? r they any for the 3rd gens?

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by Infam0usMax

lol thankx for the info yeah I wasnt sure about the 2.5 myself but the others I was what about coilovers? r they any for the 3rd gens?

no. the closest would be a cefiro, which is no where near a maxima.

[TLM4590]

Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e

but yeah ask this guy if he thinks fixing up a 3rd gen is a "dumb question" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eXL6hqQO1Q

But mine is an automatic, I dont think this guys is.
Another thing, the VG30E engine, I was thinking it was a SOHC, as far as I can tell (correct me please if Im wrong) it is not a OHC engine at all. Please some info.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by TLM4590

But mine is an automatic, I dont think this guys is.
Another thing, the VG30E engine, I was thinking it was a SOHC, as far as I can tell (correct me please if Im wrong) it is not a OHC engine at all. Please some info.

VG30E is 12v SOHC with a timing belt
VE30DE (92-94 SE only) is 24v DOHC with a timing chain

we don't use no stinkin' pushrods here

[TLM4590]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

VG30E is 12v SOHC with a timing belt
VE30DE (92-94 SE only) is 24v DOHC with a timing chain

we don't use no stinkin' pushrods here

OK, I didnt think it was a pushrodder, the car isnt in my driveway yet (registration and repair issues) so its hard for me to look :-P

[94se5spd]

Originally Posted by Greeny

I can't find it either.

I have a good used ve maf for sale if you want it..

How much?

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by 94se5spd

How much?

pm sent..

[dadswieser]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

on my car it took me 12 days working a few hours a day. that was in feb of 08. 2 weeks ago on nc90gxe's car, working about 4-5 hrs a day, it took me 4 days. part of that was the fact that we didn't get a flywheel until the 3rd day.. we could have finished in 3 if not for that.

mine cost $350 for a fully functional driveable parts car, $30 for fluid, $20 for axle seals, and $10 for a hole saw for the clutch master cylinder. car was driveable at this point. drove it daily just like this for 3 months, but the pressure in my clutch line kept building and building until the pedal was uber-stiff and the clutch would slip. i have no idea what actually caused this.

afterward i had to buy a new clutch master cylinder due to a leak ($40) a new clutch kit $175, a new flywheel $60, a new clutch line $20, a new fork boot $5, a new reverse/neutral position sensor $25, and a slave cylinder rebuilt kit $10. much of this was preemptive repair, because i just wanted to have new parts. I didn't have a job when i first did the swap, so i installed the 'afterward' stuff 3 months later after i got a job. of course, the clutch slippage issue was resolved after all the clutch-related parts i replaced.

if you have to source stuff individually, you can probably get all the parts/tranny you need at a junkyard for $300ish. save the receipt in case you have a bad bearing in the tranny or leaky hydraylics, etc. i can provide a detailed list with some pics if you need it. there's a few parsts you wouldn't think to grab that you actually do need. you do not NEED a manual ECU, but it does help with idle return and such. i am still using an automatic ECU.

fwiw the most challenging task i'd ever done on a car prior to doing my 5spd swap was putting new brake pads on my friend's car. i jumped in, got my hands dirty, learned what not to do next time, and had fun.

So Im thinking of doing a 5-speed swap on my 90 SE. I have a 5-speed tranny and clutch kit already and I found a donor car at the JY but Im not sure what all I need to pull. Would you be willing to send me that list and pictures to give me the confidence to pull this project off?

[drivethruboy54]

Noob here, and im having a problem with my 93 SE

It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.

A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.

I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?

I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.

any suggestions would be great

thanks
gaven
San Francisco California

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by drivethruboy54

Noob here, and im having a problem with my 93 SE

It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.

A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.

I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?

I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.

any suggestions would be great

thanks
gaven
San Francisco California

1. Get rid of the bosch plugs, use NGK only for nissan products.

2. It's not a lifter ticking, called VTC clack, read up about this in the general maintenance sticky.

3. Code 51 means you have a bad injector, you can find out which one it is by unplugging the ignition coils one at a time, while the engine is running... listening to the engine, you will notice a drop in idle/rougher running while each coil is unplugged, the one that doesn't change the idle/sound of the engine will be the cylinder with the bad injector...

Be sure you plug each coil back in before unplugging the next coil in your test..

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by dadswieser

So Im thinking of doing a 5-speed swap on my 90 SE. I have a 5-speed tranny and clutch kit already and I found a donor car at the JY but Im not sure what all I need to pull. Would you be willing to send me that list and pictures to give me the confidence to pull this project off?

this is the official parts list as far as i can remember so far

• 5spd tranny
  • 5 upper trans bolts (all14mm-head)
    • 4 M10-1.5x57mm
    • 1 M10-1.5x62mm (in front by starter)
• 7 lower trans bolts
  • 2 12mm-head bolts towards front of the car
    • 2 M8-1.25x25mm
  • 5 14mm-head bolts on underside and rear trans
    • 4 M10-1.5x30mm
    • 1 M10-1.5x57mm
• flywheel (6 14-mm head bolts)
• clutch/pressure plate (6 or 9 12mm-head bolts w/ washers. If you only find 6, buy 3 more)*
• throwout bearing aka TOB*
• 2 plates between engine and trans (one full ring, one half ring)
• engine-to-trans gussets (reuse the 4 gusset-to-block bolts from a/t setup)
• front trans mount (3 short bolts and 1 long bolt to trans body, 1 long bolt w/ nut to bracket all 14-mm head iirc)
• front trans mount bracket (attaches to frame. 3 short 14mm-head bolts)
• rear trans mount (1 long 14mm-head bolt w/ nut to bracket & 2 more 14mm-head nuts to tranny ‘handle’. Bracket on frame is the same m/t or a/t)
• slave cylinder (2 14mm-headed bolts)
• clutch hose (rubber) and clutch hose (metal pre-bent). Ignore the thing with the large coil of hose.. it’s a hassle to bleed, and not needed.
• Clutch master cylinder
• Clutch pedal assembly (2 12mm-head nuts on studs, 1 12mm-headed bolt for bracket, and the welded spacer piece on the inside of the firewall)
• The 2 little harnesses for the clutch switches (cruise control and start switch)
• Shifter assembly (2 rods, base, return spring, stick, knob, boot) ditch the old studs and just attach it to the body with 4 nuts and 4 bolts that you will buy yourself. This might take 2 people to do.
• Support rod plate (is attached to the tranny during installation using 2 out of the 7 “lower trans bolts” listed above)

IF YOU ARE USING THE 92-94 M/T on a VG engine you also need:

• VE 5spd axles
• and either VE 5spd hubs OR to swap outer CV joints from the VG axles onto the VE axle shafts.

*items recommended to be purchased new

[drivethruboy54]

greeny

thanks for the info

new plugs is going to be my first step and see what happens.

If nothing changes then ill move onto testing the injectors.

Ive heard of vtc, and grounding them to get them to stop, but mine sounds nothing like this...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KfbhYqYY38 Its much more subtle

[JCS]

Friend recommended tigerjapanese.com for me to order my engine from. He's bought there before so I checked it out. They have a (JDM) VE i'm looking for, and I could have it for $709 shipped to my door.

I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by JCS

Friend recommended tigerjapanese.com for me to order my engine from. He's bought there before so I checked it out. They have a (JDM) VE i'm looking for, and I could have it for $709 shipped to my door.

I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?

I, and most members, it seems, do not put alot of faith in "JDM" for third gens. you have to consider that these engines probably have not been on the road for about ten years, or so, due to Japan's tight emissions regulations (this is my understanding, anyway). if this is the case, and it is truly JDM, these engines are usually not rebuilt. for the price, you could either a) buy a junkyard motor and have it installed, or b) rebuild your current motor.

not calling jdm a crock of crap, but rather, i find it suspicious that these engines are still available, after all this time....
not to mention, mechanically, there is absolutely NO difference between JDM and USDM engines for our cars.