3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.
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Check all wiring and connections that relate to all cylinders, Meaning wiring to coil, sensors, all ground wiring etc.
Fuel pump, yes likely culprit based on everything you said and did, pull the pump and visually inspect + check for plugged sock. Check for major contamination and water as well.
Intermittent problems can suck, careful visual inspection usually reveals source. Remember to KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid, Actually one of the 1st places I would start with in your case is the battery terminals.
I have a 92 Maxima DOHC but the problem: Its putters really bad only while on the gas or sitting still. When decelerating the car is normal. It starts right up everytime. Sometimes while im driving down the road ill be on the gas and all of the sudden I have no gas. Ill put it to the floor and nothing but car is still running and after a couple seconds it will just start going again. Sometimes the car will even stall for no reason while im driving. The first time any problems occured i was driving and was making a left turn behind somebody that was driving extremely slow and it just started puttering. The first day the car stalled i couldnt start it for about 20 minutes untill i got a bar and hit the bottom of my gas tank and gave it a little gas before i tried starting it and it started right up.I replaced fuel filter,spark plugs,oil and oil filter. I just ordered a fuel pump but not sure if that is even the problem. Anybody have any suggestions where to start?? Somebody please Help me.
Definitely sounds like a bad f/p, the next time it does the stall out thing, whack the tank immediately after the stall out, just to confirm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 92maxima92
Also no Check engine light is on? Driving me nuts but i love my MAXIMA!! Any suggestions welcome
1992 maxima gxe with 131,000 miles. Bought it for $500 from a lady said it was running rough. I brought it home and it ran real rough stuttering and idleing it would lose power and then downshift and take off and then stutter agin. I put new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotery button, pulled the fuel rail and swapped for one out of a running max (no money for new injector but the one it came out of ran good). It has no check engine light showing. where do I start and anyadvice would be appreciated still running rough
1992 maxima gxe with 131,000 miles. Bought it for $500 from a lady said it was running rough. I brought it home and it ran real rough stuttering and idleing it would lose power and then downshift and take off and then stutter agin. I put new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotery button, pulled the fuel rail and swapped for one out of a running max (no money for new injector but the one it came out of ran good). It has no check engine light showing. where do I start and anyadvice would be appreciated still running rough
Did you swap both rails? The injectors can be tested for resistance using a multimeter, did you have a chance to do this? A good range of resistance is between 11 and 15 Ohm.
yes I swapped both rails and tried the multi meter thing but mine is old and analog and hard to get to work. I figured it would be okay since it came off a running car. do i have to tear it back down and check that?
yes I swapped both rails and tried the multi meter thing but mine is old and analog and hard to get to work. I figured it would be okay since it came off a running car. do i have to tear it back down and check that?
Possibly. Its just that there are no absolute certainties with these cars so things really have to be checked out completely. On the VE engine, the rear injectors can be checked from the harness they share. If the VG is also like that, then you dont have to tear everything down.
You left out fuel filter from your list, so that can be something else to replace. I'm sure someone who knows VG-specific troubleshooting will chime in soon.
Where on the harness do I test at?
Fuel filter was also replaced.
All the vg injectors except the one on #2 cylinder<--(bottom left injector, looking @ the engine from the front of the car) can be ohm checked directly at the injector terminals.
I use an old analog ohm meter all the time with no problems mang , what problem are you having with measuring ohms with it?
sorry it took a min to reply the laptop died. when I tried the multimeter the needle would jump or go to what looks like to 10 ohms, and start jumping agin
i have a 90 SE 5spd, im a little lost on the terms used here like "VG", but my real question is about the shifter falling through the floor. has this ever happend to anyone? the shifter broke free of what appears to be a rubber bushing that is dry and cracked beyond belief and half of it is gone as it is, and the shift linkage is sitting on the heat sheild. i cant find this part ANYWHERE, the junk yards cant figure it out either, and thanks to CT laws there are no u-pull its left. so any help would be appreciated, i know about the exhaust studs going bad and thats why the cars not on the road. it snapped all but 2 studs on both sides.
also, is there an easy way to clean out the vent boxes for the heat and AC? the car sat for two years with a supply of toilet paper in the back seat for some reason, and the mice made a nice home for themselves and now it wont switch over to heat, and winter might as well be here and with no defrost its difficult to drive.
this is an amazing car but ive spent my life studying up on ford V8s and needless to say this is a whole new ball game for me and im completly lost, i just now mastered how to get around the bose stereo system. so any help is appreciated, thanks
i have a 90 SE 5spd, im a little lost on the terms used here like "VG", but my real question is about the shifter falling through the floor. has this ever happend to anyone? the shifter broke free of what appears to be a rubber bushing that is dry and cracked beyond belief and half of it is gone as it is, and the shift linkage is sitting on the heat sheild. i cant find this part ANYWHERE, the junk yards cant figure it out either, and thanks to CT laws there are no u-pull its left. so any help would be appreciated, i know about the exhaust studs going bad and thats why the cars not on the road. it snapped all but 2 studs on both sides.
also, is there an easy way to clean out the vent boxes for the heat and AC? the car sat for two years with a supply of toilet paper in the back seat for some reason, and the mice made a nice home for themselves and now it wont switch over to heat, and winter might as well be here and with no defrost its difficult to drive.
this is an amazing car but ive spent my life studying up on ford V8s and needless to say this is a whole new ball game for me and im completly lost, i just now mastered how to get around the bose stereo system. so any help is appreciated, thanks
lol, sorry, we throw those terms around all day long, like gamers throw "noob", "leet", etc.
"vg" is for the engine code of vg30e, the one used in your (and my) SE.
a while back there was a thread about those bushing rotting out, and greeny had a genius idea to get a polyurethane block, cut it down and replace the worn bushing. but I dont think i have actually heard of one falling out in our car (not to say it hasn't happened)
cleaning the AC box, i don't know, but the search may come up with something. good luck
i have a 90 SE 5spd, im a little lost on the terms used here like "VG", but my real question is about the shifter falling through the floor. has this ever happend to anyone? the shifter broke free of what appears to be a rubber bushing that is dry and cracked beyond belief and half of it is gone as it is, and the shift linkage is sitting on the heat sheild. i cant find this part ANYWHERE, the junk yards cant figure it out either, and thanks to CT laws there are no u-pull its left. so any help would be appreciated, i know about the exhaust studs going bad and thats why the cars not on the road. it snapped all but 2 studs on both sides.
also, is there an easy way to clean out the vent boxes for the heat and AC? the car sat for two years with a supply of toilet paper in the back seat for some reason, and the mice made a nice home for themselves and now it wont switch over to heat, and winter might as well be here and with no defrost its difficult to drive.
this is an amazing car but ive spent my life studying up on ford V8s and needless to say this is a whole new ball game for me and im completly lost, i just now mastered how to get around the bose stereo system. so any help is appreciated, thanks
wiking knows the most about the nooks and crannies like climate control... hopefully he'll peep in here soon. I know you can probably just dismantle it all and shake the obstructing objects (dead mice??? GROSS!) out of the passages that air goes through.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
i just went out and starteed pulling plug wires (read some post tried to get as far as I can.) It is running the same with the #3 #4 #5 plug undone. does that mean the fuel injectors are bad? please help I need to get this car running
i just went out and starteed pulling plug wires (read some post tried to get as far as I can.) It is running the same with the #3 #4 #5 plug undone. does that mean the fuel injectors are bad? please help I need to get this car running
to make sure we are on the same page regarding cyl. #
Yes we are on the same page. So are the injectors bad? Pull it apart agin??? No other possible problems? I have no money for new injectors is there a way to see if I can swap out junkyard injectors.( I know this sounds horrible but I am broke in todays economy)How can I test them other than an ohms check?
Last edited by Justinleo1984; 11-20-2008 at 11:51 AM.
wiking knows the most about the nooks and crannies like climate control... hopefully he'll peep in here soon. I know you can probably just dismantle it all and shake the obstructing objects (dead mice??? GROSS!) out of the passages that air goes through.
thanks guys, i spent 3 hours looking for atleast that last night. so its a dealer part? assuming that it is im ordering it today. and with the heater box and vents, my brothers a mechanic and said its a 16 hour job to get it out, so would cutting a hole and vaccuming all crap out and appoxying the hole closed again work? i drove the car all summer with nothing but windows, didnt bother me, so its not that important, i just need the defroster. again, thanks for the help, i like to know what im driving front and back, time to learn the maxi.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Yes we are on the same page. So are the injectors bad? Pull it apart agin??? No other possible problems? I have no money for new injectors is there a way to see if I can swap out junkyard injectors.( I know this sounds horrible but I am broke in todays economy)How can I test them other than an ohms check?
the ohm check is the most accurate test. All the others still rely on that one for an absolute answer.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I put in tokico hp's and B&G springs(1.6inch drop all around), new boots & bump stops, new strut mounts, everything new, i am getting a lot of bounce even on a relatively smooth street doing 80kms an hr, do i need to trim/cut my bump stops down? will this help? thanks in adavance, by the way this is on a 92 maxima se
I put in tokico hp's and B&G springs, new boots, bump stops, new strut mounts, everything new, i am getting a lot of bounce even on a relatively smooth street, doing 80kms an hr its bouncy, do i need to trim/cut my bump stops down? will this help? thanks in adavance, by the way this is on a 92 maxima se
That's the B&G 1.6 inch drop trait dude, they are quite a stiff spring, not mention they are a progressive spring...
If you want a smoother riding drop spring, go with Eibach, they are a linear spring like the stock springs, but with a higher spring rate and a 1.1 inch drop from stock.
well this is bouncing so bad sometimes that its worse that my oem setup, so should i not even try with the bump stops and just swap out the springs for eibachs? also the eibach pro kit thats drops the 3rd gens 1.2 inchs are progressive springs like the B&G's, atleast thats what the descriptions say on the websites, thx
well this is bouncing so bad sometimes that its worse that my oem setup, so should i not even try with the bump stops and just swap out the springs for eibachs? also the eibach pro kit thats drops the 3rd gens 1.2 inchs are progressive springs like the B&G's, atleast thats what the descriptions say on the websites, thx
All the standard drop springs for these cars are linear front/progressive rear..
don't bother swapping bump stops, if you want a slightly smoother ride, go with eibach...But be reminded, you will not have a smooth as stock(good condition stock) ride with any drop spring kit out there for these cars..there simply is not enough suspension travel on the 3rd gen.
hey np, i wish the whiskey was talking for me but sadly im at work, well that really blows, and its weird sometimes it rides nice and tight like i think it should always ride and others its completely messed so thats why i thought it was bottoming out, hence maybe try trimming the bump stops, also im in upper canada, manitoba to be exact and its pretty cold here, any chance that has an effect on how my springs and struts ride?
hey np, i wish the whiskey was talking for me but sadly im at work, well that really blows, and its weird sometimes it rides nice and tight like i think it should always ride and others its completely messed so thats why i thought it was bottoming out, hence maybe try trimming the bump stops, also im in upper canada, manitoba to be exact and its pretty cold here, any chance that has an effect on how my springs and struts ride?
Most definitely, i have B&G's with toks also, to be honest, this setup makes for a horrible winter ride. most likely due to strut oil being cold=much firmer strut+cold still metal springs= booinnng booining booinng!!
like i said before, do not trim your bump stops, it will lead to premature strut failure.
cool, in the summer does it ride a lot better? i havent driven my car in nice weather, in the week it took my mechanic to put in all the parts, it went from nice to snow on the ground which sux, im wondering if i should just park it and leave the B&G's in it
cool, in the summer does it ride a lot better? i havent driven my car in nice weather, in the week it took my mechanic to put in all the parts, it went from nice to snow on the ground which sux, im wondering if i should just park it and leave the B&G's in it
meh, they are still a bit bouncy in the summer also, just not as bad. It's just inherent of this spring type to behave like this.
have you ran eibachs before? is there a lot less bounce with them?
No, but i have read for many years on this forum that they are the best of both worlds, so to speak, i just wanted a lower drop then the eibach springs, so i went with b&g's...
ya thats why i went with B&G's myself, ah well, ill keep em till the spring and see how they do in warm weather, thx for the advice man
hmm, I have eibach/toks, and though I don't know how B&G's ride, I can say that the eibach's are pretty firm regardless of the situation. But I guess with the added height in the spring they can still stay firm but also manage to not jolt so much over uneven ground.
anyone know how to remove the 3 bolts holding in the right cv axle on an 89 SE?? doing an engine swap myself and im going thru a living hell with it... also i got 3 stripped screws that hold my steering knuckle to the control arm on the right side and im pissed cuz i dont want to have those screws drilled off and i end up havin to replace the bolts cuz the threads got f-ed up,,,anyone know a easier way to get stripped screws off??
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
why the lol greeny??? also does anyone know if the heater core and window regulators from other max's that are not 89's fit in my 89 without problems??
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
anyone know how to remove the 3 bolts holding in the right cv axle on an 89 SE?? doing an engine swap myself and im going thru a living hell with it... also i got 3 stripped screws that hold my steering knuckle to the control arm on the right side and im pissed cuz i dont want to have those screws drilled off and i end up havin to replace the bolts cuz the threads got f-ed up,,,anyone know a easier way to get stripped screws off??
You're not talking about the CV axle carrier bracket are you? Those are the only three bolts that I can think of that would be a problem; but that's more of location. All of the other bolts came out fine when I removed mine are you using quality sockets? They really make the difference with that kind of job. Wonder if anyone has had any experience with these:
why the lol greeny??? also does anyone know if the heater core and window regulators from other max's that are not 89's fit in my 89 without problems??
Well, generally everything 1989 to 1994 will fit fine. All regulators will, I assume the heater core will as well. Never read anything different.
You're not talking about the CV axle carrier bracket are you? Those are the only three bolts that I can think of that would be a problem; but that's more of location. All of the other bolts came out fine when I removed mine are you using quality sockets? They really make the difference with that kind of job. Wonder if anyone has had any experience with these:
Well, generally everything 1989 to 1994 will fit fine. All regulators will, I assume the heater core will as well. Never read anything different.
first...thanks wanted to make sure before i purchased those parts lol...yeah im talkin bout the cv axle support housing on the front right side...from the way i looked at them...they seemed odd to me...to be facing the left side when their for the right...guess i gotta jack the whole damn car up even more to get to them(working with only 2 jackstands trying to do an engine swap...hopefully when i unbolt the tranny i have room to move it out
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
okay did some more reading found my ecu diagnostic thing under the center on the passenger side but I am a bit confused on how to opperate the thing and how do I get my idle set back after I do it? one other question too, there are a ton of junked maximas and I am from the south(tennessee, nashville) is there any way I can get some injectors out of one of them and do the ohms test? do I have to replace to orings or can I just looka nd see if they are in good condition. I know I will have to go back in and change agin but by then I could mabe afford new injectors. I really like this car and want her to be a good car any help will be appreciated.
---> 
, what problem are you having with measuring ohms with it?
89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash
are you using quality sockets? They really make the difference with that kind of job. Wonder if anyone has had any experience with these:
Linear Mode
