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I have no idea what was done other than regassing and from what I understand, that is a straight forward job, not requiring removal or changing of any connections other than the regassing valve. (I may be wrong)
the display on those climate controls have a tendency (as most older automotive electronics do) to fail. it needs to be re-soldered somewhere, which would require removal, disassembly, and checking for broken solder joints.
I believe the fan issue may be separate, but until you check the control unit, you may want to wait to check my suspicion; faulty circuits on the blower motor () which requires complete disassembly and removal of the dash.
the display on those climate controls have a tendency (as most older automotive electronics do) to fail. it needs to be re-soldered somewhere, which would require removal, disassembly, and checking for broken solder joints.
I believe the fan issue may be separate, but until you check the control unit, you may want to wait to check my suspicion; faulty circuits on the blower motor () which requires complete disassembly and removal of the dash.
Ouch. That's no afternoon job.
I did come across some interesting info in the pdftown manual that I linked to previously which shows how to self test the climate control for fault diagnosis. While I was assimilating all this info, I came to the realisation that the fan only work on full.
The motor speed is controls by a Fan Control Amp(FCA) until you get to full speed then it is a direct 12vdc connection through the Hi Relay connector, which bypasses the Fan Control Amp, which varies the voltage from 4 to 8 vdc.
So it could be very possible that the Fan Control Amp is cactus. There is a harness under the passengers side that I should be able to get to to check the output of the FCA without pulling the dash apart.
whats up guys, thanks for all your help, i replaced my bad injectors and the car runs amazing, has a ton of power compared to my integra i just sold.
one question tho, did any of you guys successfully clean up 3rd gen rims and what did you use? i was thinking of trying to buff them but i dont know how well it comes out and how long it lasts
whats up guys, thanks for all your help, i replaced my bad injectors and the car runs amazing, has a ton of power compared to my integra i just sold.
one question tho, did any of you guys successfully clean up 3rd gen rims and what did you use? i was thinking of trying to buff them but i dont know how well it comes out and how long it lasts
I have found that that is usually the clearcoat bubbling up due to a lack of love in the wheel's life. You would have to refinish it.
__________________
Black 93 Maxima SE (formerly Craig Brace's). A new beginning with lots of fixing. Holding on at 192,000.
Grampy's '92 GXE...only the finest!
...I want her back...
whats up guys, thanks for all your help, i replaced my bad injectors and the car runs amazing, has a ton of power compared to my integra i just sold.
one question tho, did any of you guys successfully clean up 3rd gen rims and what did you use? i was thinking of trying to buff them but i dont know how well it comes out and how long it lasts
Go grab some aluminum colored wheel paint from the auto parts store, mask off the tires, push zee paint can button.
Grab a 50 cent deck of playing cards, stick them between where the rim/tire meet. works great.
hmmm good idea. but these are loose anyways (by loose, i mean they have blistered old tires on them that the PO didn't feel like removing.... but i can paint on the tires and not care)
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
hmmm good idea. but these are loose anyways (by loose, i mean they have blistered old tires on them that the PO didn't feel like removing.... but i can paint on the tires and not care)
Does anyone know what the cc's on stock fuel injectors for a ve30de engine? I'm looking into purchasing DeatschWerks injectors and wondering what cc's to go with, and whats the advantage of going with bigger ones? thanks in advance
Does anyone know what the cc's on stock fuel injectors for a ve30de engine? I'm looking into purchasing DeatschWerks injectors and wondering what cc's to go with, and whats the advantage of going with bigger ones? thanks in advance
If you are worried about the quality of the Deatschwerks injectors, rest assured, I know Dave personally (he's one of the founding members of NISMOKC.com, our local nissan forums, and has had his injectors in a LOT of VERY high HP cars.
If you call/email them, they can get you set up with what you need for the power you want to produce. One bit of advice though, in my opinion, you will likely not see any better performance from bigger injectors on an N/A motor unless you are fully built, high compression, ported/polished, big maf, big throttle body, lots of money involved N/A build.
Now don't get me wrong, more fuel/air generally means more power, but I've never seen a stock motor really benifit from big injectors without some sort of forced induction/nitros
Does anyone know what the cc's on stock fuel injectors for a ve30de engine? I'm looking into purchasing DeatschWerks injectors and wondering what cc's to go with, and whats the advantage of going with bigger ones? thanks in advance
270cc are the stock size for the VE/VQ engines. you will not gain anything with larger cc injectors unless you are turbo'd
So should i go with 370cc or 450cc over the stock 270cc if i plan on porting, upgrading to bigger throttle body, or is it just for turbo? will i get worse gas mileage with bigger injectors but no mods for the engine besides cai and exhaust?
So should i go with 370cc or 450cc over the stock 270cc if i plan on porting, upgrading to bigger throttle body, or is it just for turbo? will i get worse gas mileage with bigger injectors but no mods for the engine besides cai and exhaust?
Do the correct mods first,(i'e. turbo setup/ nitrous setup) then get larger injectors, don't put the cart before the horse.
For sure thats always the plan, but im having some problems with my injectors so i dont think i can wait to replace them until i do a bunch of engine mods, i also dont want to purchase 2 sets of injectors either, so im kinda looking for a happy medium, something that will be fine for now and than fine when the engine mods come as well
i am new to this forum and i just bought a 95 max, black 5 speed w/ 124,000 miles.. it has started for me fine every try. but the last owner said it would not start when it was cold out. im trying to figure out what the problem can be, before it starts to happen to me. im more of a hands on person than a send it in to the shop and have them do it. but id like to see if anyone else has had any of these problems or knows what it is or can be? the starter is new the guy said and its not that, im thinking something like a cold start sensor? also, i noticed my abs light is on and when i hit my breaks hard the front tires lock up and it stinks of burning breaks even when i break normally.. if anyone has any helping info please message me. thank you very much - Anthony
i am new to this forum and i just bought a 95 max, black 5 speed w/ 124,000 miles.. it has started for me fine every try. but the last owner said it would not start when it was cold out. im trying to figure out what the problem can be, before it starts to happen to me. im more of a hands on person than a send it in to the shop and have them do it. but id like to see if anyone else has had any of these problems or knows what it is or can be? the starter is new the guy said and its not that, im thinking something like a cold start sensor? also, i noticed my abs light is on and when i hit my breaks hard the front tires lock up and it stinks of burning breaks even when i break normally.. if anyone has any helping info please message me. thank you very much - Anthony
You have a 4th gen maxima there is a noobie thread in the 4th gen forum, direct your questions there.
ok any one know if the 91 maxima came with a keyless enter system
GXE models all came with keypads on the door handle, but SEs NEVER came with them. No remotes or anything like that tho. You can get an aftermarket system and install it, but they didn't come with them. They DO have alarm systems tho.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
just put in tokico and B&G setup on my 92 se, along with new mounts and boots, new axles, new control arms, ball joints, bushings, inner and outter tie rods, new rotors and brakes all around, which just about covers all the major **** under this car, im still waiting on ST sway bar kit, but ive noticed that im getting some bounce with the car, is this because i have blown stock sway bars on it? or am i missing something, everything was installed by a local performance shop known for there good work, thx in advance
just put in tokico and B&G setup on my 92 se, along with new mounts and boots, new axles, new control arms, ball joints, bushings, inner and outter tie rods, new rotors and brakes all around, which just about covers all the major **** under this car, im still waiting on ST sway bar kit, but ive noticed that im getting some bounce with the car, is this because i have blown stock sway bars on it? or am i missing something, everything was installed by a local performance shop known for there good work, thx in advance
bushings and links are gone on the back sway bar, its loose, the friont one i just put new links on when i did the other stuff, also it is winter here and the roads aren't the greatest even in the summer but i just expected less bounce, do you think the ST sway bars with help with that? or could it be something else?
ALSO should i maybe get a SFC stage 1 kit? im looking to get a nice stiff chasis, so maybe id be better of with that and just keep the stock sway bars or should i get both? will a stage 1 sfc kit tighten everything up? or am i going in the wrong direction here, will either of these things help with bounce? did i make a mistake going with with tokico and B&G?, thanks again in advance
bushings and links are gone on the back sway bar, its loose, the friont one i just put new links on when i did the other stuff, also it is winter here and the roads aren't the greatest even in the summer but i just expected less bounce, do you think the ST sway bars with help with that? or could it be something else?
sway bars dont really have anything to do with bounce, just sway.
my only thoughts are you have been driving the max with struts/springs that were messed up to the point they weren't working, or our definitions of "bounce" are different...
I did come across some interesting info in the pdftown manual that I linked to previously which shows how to self test the climate control for fault diagnosis. While I was assimilating all this info, I came to the realisation that the fan only work on full.
The motor speed is controls by a Fan Control Amp(FCA) until you get to full speed then it is a direct 12vdc connection through the Hi Relay connector, which bypasses the Fan Control Amp, which varies the voltage from 4 to 8 vdc.
So it could be very possible that the Fan Control Amp is cactus. There is a harness under the passengers side that I should be able to get to to check the output of the FCA without pulling the dash apart.
Just an update to let you know how I'm progressing.
Have run all the diagnositic tests on the power window circuits and it appears that I have no other choice but to replace the master switch.
Now on the good news side, the problem with the airconditioning that I described earlier, which is only have full fan speed, nothing else.
I found a thread that described a resistor that was mounted behind the glovebox and it was mounted into the airbox. I found this little switch behind the glove box and removed it. Hope this works, but here is a picture
After pulling this apart, I found a rather large transistor D1297 (NEC) written on it. I googled this part number and found hundreds of forums of other vehicles including holden from Australia who had the same problem as me and they just replace this transistor.
Well, $20.00 later and a bit of solder, I now have all my speeds back on my climate control and I'm very happy.
Just need to get the window switch and all will be great.
Thanks to all those that offered help and suggestions.
David
PS the inset picture is looking through the hole once you have taken out the resistor. You can see the heater core and all the crud that has collected. I vacuumed mine out.
I'm going to get a clutch kit plus pilot bearing and a flywheel, as well as oil seals, timing belt and cv joint for like $450. All that stuff seems much easier to do at the same time.
But I'm wondering before I drop the cash if it will be worth it. I have what seems to be classic pilot bearing noise, but I wonder if something buried in the transmission might be bad? It's a grinding sound that matches engine speed, and it goes away when the clutch is depressed. I had someone take a look at it, but he wasn't too sure because it didn't sound like what he though was a typical pilot bearing "squeal." He suggested I drive it until it stopped shifting (It shifts pretty well, but every car I've had before this has had a crappy tranny). I took it to a shop that said it was definately a bearing and that I may need to replace a gear.
I also get a bit of what seems like chatter at <1000RPM. Can there be clutch chatter when you don't have the clutch depressed at all? When I'm going more than 20-30 I can't hear anything.
I was also wondering what a rebuilt tranny would cost, and who sells them?
I had my brakes bled and now a horrible grinding noise is emanating from the rear brakes. I called the shop and they said it will go away but it still hasn't. How do you get from no noise to producing noise from a bleed job on top of which it is still squishy?
So I don't know if they screwed up and there is still air in the lines, or if my vacuum booster, or master is bad. After two pumps with the engine off it gets stiff, but I can still slowly push down the pedal. Then again, I pumped it twice and 3 hours later it was still stiff, so I'm guessing the booster is ok?
I'm going to get a clutch kit plus pilot bearing and a flywheel, as well as oil seals, timing belt and cv joint for like $450. All that stuff seems much easier to do at the same time.
But I'm wondering before I drop the cash if it will be worth it. I have what seems to be classic pilot bearing noise, but I wonder if something buried in the transmission might be bad? It's a grinding sound that matches engine speed, and it goes away when the clutch is depressed. I had someone take a look at it, but he wasn't too sure because it didn't sound like what he though was a typical pilot bearing "squeal." He suggested I drive it until it stopped shifting (It shifts pretty well, but every car I've had before this has had a crappy tranny). I took it to a shop that said it was definately a bearing and that I may need to replace a gear.
I also get a bit of what seems like chatter at <1000RPM. Can there be clutch chatter when you don't have the clutch depressed at all? When I'm going more than 20-30 I can't hear anything.
I was also wondering what a rebuilt tranny would cost, and who sells them?
I had my brakes bled and now a horrible grinding noise is emanating from the rear brakes. I called the shop and they said it will go away but it still hasn't. How do you get from no noise to producing noise from a bleed job on top of which it is still squishy?
So I don't know if they screwed up and there is still air in the lines, or if my vacuum booster, or master is bad. After two pumps with the engine off it gets stiff, but I can still slowly push down the pedal. Then again, I pumped it twice and 3 hours later it was still stiff, so I'm guessing the booster is ok?
Man that was a long post.
Your transmission issue is not the pilot bushing, you have a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission, replacing the bearing or replacing the transmission are your only options. replacing the bearing will require removal of the transmission and cracking the case open to access the bearing(not fun).
Brake issue:
Have you checked the rear brake pads? Grinding noises from brakes is usually from extremely worn pads.
Input shaft bearing is what I meant, sorry. You say I have to open the transmission to replace the bearing? gah
What about the chattering? Is it warped/worn clutch components or something worse?
The shop said the pads were all pretty new... He said the noise would go away and was because the disc was scored or something, but I am going to check it just out of curiosity.
So is there any validity to the claim that a bad input shaft bearing will put more stress on the input shaft gear (or whatever), and require replacement?
Input shaft bearing is what I meant, sorry. You say I have to open the transmission to replace the bearing? gah
What about the chattering? Is it warped/worn clutch components or something worse?
The shop said the pads were all pretty new... He said the noise would go away and was because the disc was scored or something, but I am going to check it just out of curiosity.
So is there any validity to the claim that a bad input shaft bearing will put more stress on the input shaft gear (or whatever), and require replacement?
chatternig in the clutch is usually either bad/warped/burned clutch/flywheel/pp, OR bad motor mounts, or both. Mine was both, now i just have to finish fixing the mounts. basically if I launch - or am moving too slow to fully release the clutch and have the RPM - under 1000, it will chatter a little bit.
as for the transmission/bearing.. where are you located? I have a spare VG 5spd that i might give up if the price is right. definitely not gonna ship it tho.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
It must partially be the motor mounts because I don't have the clutch depressed at all when it happens sometimes.
I think you are mistaking or miswording chatter for a bucking/misfiring condition..The clutch cannot chatter when it is fully engaged with the transmission, clutch chatter only happens when you are "slipping" the clutch in first gear to take off.
Yes, you have to disassemble the transmission to replace the bearing.
I was going to get around to pulling the code but it seems like a bit of a pain. I didn't think it could be a misfire if I was getting 30mpg (the speedo sensor is also bad).
Are we talking total disassembly for the bearing? All the haynes shows is an exploded view of the input shaft, how many hours would you say it would require? It looks like it would be nice to renovate the synchros at the same time, but where can I get those parts?
I was going to get around to pulling the code but it seems like a bit of a pain. I didn't think it could be a misfire if I was getting 30mpg (the speedo sensor is also bad).
A pain? It's as easy as pie to check the codes on these cars, like a five minute job. maybe you need to take your car to a good repair shop if checking codes are a pain?
A intermittent misfire will not drop fuel mileage much, if any at all.
Quote:
Are we talking total disassembly for the bearing? All the haynes shows is an exploded view of the input shaft, how many hours would you say it would require? It looks like it would be nice to renovate the synchros at the same time, but where can I get those parts?
God, I should just get another tranny.
Yeah, you probably just need to go with a replacement trans.
what do i have to do if i want to put a aftermarket deck on my stock bose speaker system?
You can remove the stock stereo and simply install the aftermarket one. I am sure that there is a write up about it somewhere. My Sony Xplode stereo was not too difficult to install when I had the 92 GXE.
__________________
Black 93 Maxima SE (formerly Craig Brace's). A new beginning with lots of fixing. Holding on at 192,000.
Grampy's '92 GXE...only the finest!
...I want her back...
I have a 92 Maxima DOHC but the problem: Its putters really bad only while on the gas or sitting still. When decelerating the car is normal. It starts right up everytime. Sometimes while im driving down the road ill be on the gas and all of the sudden I have no gas. Ill put it to the floor and nothing but car is still running and after a couple seconds it will just start going again. Sometimes the car will even stall for no reason while im driving. The first time any problems occured i was driving and was making a left turn behind somebody that was driving extremely slow and it just started puttering. The first day the car stalled i couldnt start it for about 20 minutes untill i got a bar and hit the bottom of my gas tank and gave it a little gas before i tried starting it and it started right up.I replaced fuel filter,spark plugs,oil and oil filter. I just ordered a fuel pump but not sure if that is even the problem. Anybody have any suggestions where to start?? Somebody please Help me.
) which requires complete disassembly and removal of the dash.
How to check for codes----> 
Linear Mode
