*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here) - Page 53

*CapedCadaver* · 11-03-2008, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeny

Yes, it definitely sounds like you have a bad starter. They usually don't have just the solenoid at the parts stores, they usually sell the starter/solenoid as a whole unit.

Reman starters for the 3rd gen usually sell for about $100 in the us, brand new for about $150. so yeah, that is a little high.

he could just grab a starter off a VG at the junkyard... same starter. I'm using a VG starter on my VE5 tranny.

**Greeny** · 11-03-2008, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

he could just grab a starter off a VG at the junkyard... same starter. I'm using a VG starter on my VE5 tranny.

I'm not a fan of used starters.imo it's just better to buy new there.

MattyMatt86 · 11-03-2008, 03:44 PM

Hey thanks for helping me out....A +++

RobiD · 11-04-2008, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

Thanks for the reply Tampamaximus.

Ok, so here is where I'm at. What a day. Thought I'd just quickly replace the rear deck speakers..... hah! Finally put replacements in as the old ones were just the cones in the middle with nothing holding them there... well worn.

Got the new speakers in (haven't reassembled yet) .... nothing. Great. So that's a problem for another day. Reassembled the back and started on troubleshooting the electric windows.

Thanks to the info that I linked to previously, I followed the fault diagnosis protocol as written in the manual.

Disassembled the drivers side door. Wiring good, no obvious problems.

With my trusty multi-meter, I proceded to test for voltage (yes, voltage coming into the master switch is fine) then I did continuity tests as per the guidelines, then all of a sudden I bumped another terminal and the rear left window moved (bear in mind that I am only testing for continuity with my multimeter, not supplying voltage anywhere). Then I tried a few other terminals, + on the terminal and - on the body and low and behold, all the windows (one at a time, not all at once) would move, but only down.

I thought to myself, if I can get them down, then I can get them up... Gong.... wrong. I finished up with all windows but the drivers side fully down and no way of getting them back up.

I had my old ducati battery in the garage so then I removed each door trim and applied 12vdc directly to the motor to put the windows back up. It worked and now I'm water proof again. (bear in mind that while I'm doing this, the radio is saying it's going to rain... great)

So anyway, long story short, all the windows work (didn't check the drivers door while I had it dissassembled and I didn't want the pull it apart again) but they don't work from any switches.

Is the problem the master switch????

Appreciate the help guys.

David

So does anyone have any thoughts before I spend money on a replacement master switch????

I've found one here in Australia for $160 from a wreckers (or they are called Auto recyclers now). New here they cost $350. Now that's steep.

Thanks
David

PMAX08 · 11-04-2008, 09:55 AM

Hey, anyone ever heard of having to cut the rear strut casings on a 92se to insert tokico HP's? I know that you have to do this on the front when putting in Koni's, but tokico's too and on the back? I'm getting new suspension put in along with a lot of other parts and got one of my local performance shops to do the work and he said he has to do this to get the rear HP's in.

*Pearl93VE* · 11-04-2008, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

So does anyone have any thoughts before I spend money on a replacement master switch????

I've found one here in Australia for $160 from a wreckers (or they are called Auto recyclers now). New here they cost $350. Now that's steep.

Thanks
David

Go look for one in the 1st-3rd gen section classifieds.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

Can Anyone post a how-to on ways to go about taking parts off car to prepare for an engine swap?? guess wut im sayin is...im preparing my 89 SE 5spd for an engine swap and im doing alot of the work myself to get it ready to have second engine thrown in and im wonderin if any of you could post instructions on how and the way you went about doing that when you went about ur engine swap??

ok im doing an engine swap myself(cant afford to pay anyone to do it) for the most part

and im not very mechanically inclined...i was wonderin can anyone post pictures of all the parts of a VG that will need to be removed for the engine swap...cuz my Haynes Repair Manual sucks horribly with pictures and im having trouble finding some parts and how to access them for removal...thanx

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

ok im doing an engine swap myself(cant afford to pay anyone to do it) for the most part

and im not very mechanically inclined...i was wonderin can anyone post pictures of all the parts of a VG that will need to be removed for the engine swap...cuz my Haynes Repair Manual sucks horribly with pictures and im having trouble finding some parts and how to access them for removal...thanx

o you're doing it yourself now? did you get a hoist?

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

o you're doing it yourself now? did you get a hoist?

yeah im renting one from a local renting company...they charge 17+tax per day...so why not lol...i mean honestly i dont have the bread to pay someone to do it for me...and all of my supposed friends are too f***ing lazy to help me out lol

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

yeah im renting one from a local renting company...they charge 17+tax per day...so why not lol...i mean honestly i dont have the bread to pay someone to do it for me...and all of my supposed friends are too f***ing lazy to help me out lol

plus i always felt like if i did the work on my vehicles myself then i would respect it and appreciate it more than payin someone to do the work...cuz i actually put in the time and effort myself...so yeah ive been cuttin the s**t outta my hands and things recently while attempting this "only for the really experienced technician" type of maintenance lol

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

plus i always felt like if i did the work on my vehicles myself then i would respect it and appreciate it more than payin someone to do the work...cuz i actually put in the time and effort myself...so yeah ive been cuttin the s**t outta my hands and things recently while attempting this "only for the really experienced technician" type of maintenance lol

o ok. what are you getting stuck on? what have you already removed?

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

o ok. what are you getting stuck on? what have you already removed?

ive already removed the full air cleaner assembly along with the full intake plenum so far, ive disconnected alot of the vacuum hoses and lines and alot of the electrical connectors...im following my service manual to the T and now its callin for me to remove the power steering pump and so forth but ive got the right fender apron and splash shield off...and now im just stuck like chuck lol...and to think im doin all this at my apartment knowin damn well that they dont allow major mechanical work like that to be done on the premises lol

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

ive already removed the full air cleaner assembly along with the full intake plenum so far, ive disconnected alot of the vacuum hoses and lines and alot of the electrical connectors...im following my service manual to the T and now its callin for me to remove the power steering pump and so forth but ive got the right fender apron and splash shield off...and now im just stuck like chuck lol...and to think im doin all this at my apartment knowin damn well that they dont allow major mechanical work like that to be done on the premises lol

unscrew the gas cap then pull the fuel lines off the FPR. PS pump can be removed once the engine is in the air... 3 bolts through the pulley and one on the backside (14mm and 12mm respectively i believe)

are you pulling engine and trans together? or separating prior to removal?

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

unscrew the gas cap then pull the fuel lines off the FPR. PS pump can be removed once the engine is in the air... 3 bolts through the pulley and one on the backside (14mm and 12mm respectively i believe)

are you pulling engine and trans together? or separating prior to removal?

which would be smarter to do??? i was thinkin seperatin tranny prior to removal? and ok u gotta give me the full wordin of some of the abbreviations...cuz im not that up to par of Maxima Lingo lol

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

which would be smarter to do??? i was thinkin seperatin tranny prior to removal? and ok u gotta give me the full wordin of some of the abbreviations...cuz im not that up to par of Maxima Lingo lol

FPR fuel pressure regulator
PS power steering

I've always separated them... trans out bottom, engine out top. Some say it's easier to drop the whole sh'bang out the bottom and lift the car OFF the engine... i never understood how people do that safely so i never bothered to try.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

FPR fuel pressure regulator
PS power steering

I've always separated them... trans out bottom, engine out top. Some say it's easier to drop the whole sh'bang out the bottom and lift the car OFF the engine... i never understood how people do that safely so i never bothered to try.

yeah that doesnt sound to safe lol...so wut all has to be removed or disconnected in order for me to go ahead and get the engine hoist to pull it out??? so maybe i can have some general idea of how far i am and when to reserve the hoist? oh yeah and radiator plus cooling fans are also out...

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

yeah that doesnt sound to safe lol...so wut all has to be removed or disconnected in order for me to go ahead and get the engine hoist to pull it out??? so maybe i can have some general idea of how far i am and when to reserve the hoist? oh yeah and radiator plus cooling fans are also out...

well ok you first need to get the tranny out. so, axles off, then disconnect shifter, then take the tranny out. after that you need all the electrical connections to be off to the side (ignore how

i look in this pic). then take off the AC compressor and ziptie it to the radiator support (don't open the lines!). unbolt the ypipe from the exhaust manifolds. disconnect the heater hoses from the engine or from the firewall, whichever you like. disconnect the elecectrical connections from the alternator. also don't forget to unbolt the main ground from body to motor (by the lower radiator hose where it comes out of the engine valley). at this point you should be mostly ready to put the chain on the engine... i use a pretty complex chain method (15ft of chain and i use every bit of it) but most people don't go through so much to chain the engine to the hoist hook. once you have it chained go ahead and tense up the chain with the hoist by lifting it a tiny bit... then undo the motor mounts from the xmember. once the mounts are loose just lift lift lift until the PS pump just rises above the fender... now disconnect that, and you should be home free.

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...sit/?start=all has a lot of pics from my car's engine swap. we also did injectors and stuff, so not everything you see that we did is necessary for you to do as well

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

well ok you first need to get the tranny out. so, axles off, then disconnect shifter, then take the tranny out. after that you need all the electrical connections to be off to the side (ignore how

i look in this pic). then take off the AC compressor and ziptie it to the radiator support (don't open the lines!). unbolt the ypipe from the exhaust manifolds. disconnect the heater hoses from the engine or from the firewall, whichever you like. disconnect the elecectrical connections from the alternator. also don't forget to unbolt the main ground from body to motor (by the lower radiator hose where it comes out of the engine valley). at this point you should be mostly ready to put the chain on the engine... i use a pretty complex chain method (15ft of chain and i use every bit of it) but most people don't go through so much to chain the engine to the hoist hook. once you have it chained go ahead and tense up the chain with the hoist by lifting it a tiny bit... then undo the motor mounts from the xmember. once the mounts are loose just lift lift lift until the PS pump just rises above the fender... now disconnect that, and you should be home free.

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...sit/?start=all has a lot of pics from my car's engine swap. we also did injectors and stuff, so not everything you see that we did is necessary for you to do as well

should i refer back to the haynes repair manual when it comes to removing some of those parts or is it just plain simple enough to do without it as along as i follow wut u posted here?? wut would i be using from the old motor on the new one??? the new one has everything....injectors, valve covers, seals and gaskets if im correct...it came outta my dads old 90 that had 72k on the engine lol before a Ford t-boned him...

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

should i refer back to the haynes repair manual when it comes to removing some of those parts or is it just plain simple enough to do without it as along as i follow wut u posted here?? wut would i be using from the old motor on the new one??? the new one has everything....injectors, valve covers, seals and gaskets if im correct...it came outta my dads old 90 that had 72k on the engine lol before a Ford t-boned him...

get an FSM online... Hayne's manuals are good for one thing - bonfires.

as for what to swap onto the 90 motor and what to keep.... if you know the stuff all has 72k on it then i'd just use everything on it. your 89 has what... 300k on it? so if that's the case then just keep the stuff that's on the new motor, but of course do new plugs, wires, disty cap/rotor, pcv valve and if they vac lines on the new motor feel even slightly brittle or hard, to ahead and change them too. one at a time to avoid confusion.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

get an FSM online... Hayne's manuals are good for one thing - bonfires.

as for what to swap onto the 90 motor and what to keep.... if you know the stuff all has 72k on it then i'd just use everything on it. your 89 has what... 300k on it? so if that's the case then just keep the stuff that's on the new motor, but of course do new plugs, wires, disty cap/rotor, pcv valve and if they vac lines on the new motor feel even slightly brittle or hard, to ahead and change them too. one at a time to avoid confusion.

FSM?? lol ok i think the S&M mean service manual??....but do i have to buy one or can i just print it from online?? ive already got new plugs and wires and rotor button and cap...i need a pcv valve...i bought all the tuneup stuff for the old motor and it ended up sittin for good 3 days later lol...so imma take all that back off lol...oh yeah and imma definitely need to hoses for when the newer motor goes in cuz...ive kinda broke a few in the process of removing them..OOOPS lol

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

FSM?? lol ok i think the S&M mean service manual??....but do i have to buy one or can i just print it from online?? ive already got new plugs and wires and rotor button and cap...i need a pcv valve...i bought all the tuneup stuff for the old motor and it ended up sittin for good 3 days later lol...so imma take all that back off lol...oh yeah and imma definitely need to hoses for when the newer motor goes in cuz...ive kinda broke a few in the process of removing them..OOOPS lol

FSM = factory service manual. OH. one last thing. replace the timing belt on the new motor. It's been sitting for a while and your dad probably didn't change it at exactly 60k did he? and get a new tensioner ($100 well spent at the Dealership) as well.. if you're brave you can redo the cam and crank seals.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

FSM = factory service manual. OH. one last thing. replace the timing belt on the new motor. It's been sitting for a while and your dad probably didn't change it at exactly 60k did he? and get a new tensioner ($100 well spent at the Dealership) as well.. if you're brave you can redo the cam and crank seals.

ive already got that...i just bought all that for the 89 motor but like i said it ended up sittin 3 days later lol...guess ill have to take the tensioner pulley and belt off the engine when it comes out is that ok to remove and put on the 90 motor? ....thank the lord that i bought all that stuff before i started havin money problems lol...WHY NOW MAX??? WHEN IVE GOT MY LIL GIRL BEING BORN IN 2 MONTHS!!! lol

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

ive already got that...i just bought all that for the 89 motor but like i said it ended up sittin 3 days later lol...guess ill have to take the tensioner pulley and belt off the engine when it comes out is that ok to remove and put on the 90 motor? ....thank the lord that i bought all that stuff before i started havin money problems lol...WHY NOW MAX??? WHEN IVE GOT MY LIL GIRL BEING BORN IN 2 MONTHS!!! lol

uh, well some people say to NEVER reuse a timing belt even if God himself commands you to... others will say it's OK to reuse if it's only got a few miles on it... it's just $30 so that's pretty cheap insurance. you may want to get a new belt and just reuse the tensioner since you said you only ran it for 3 days after putting the belt on and doing that tuneup... so i would say to reuse all the 3-day-old stuff, and only that stuff, on the 90's motor.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

uh, well some people say to NEVER reuse a timing belt even if God himself commands you to... others will say it's OK to reuse if it's only got a few miles on it... it's just $30 so that's pretty cheap insurance. you may want to get a new belt and just reuse the tensioner since you said you only ran it for 3 days after putting the belt on and doing that tuneup... so i would say to reuse all the 3-day-old stuff, and only that stuff, on the 90's motor.

yeah i was going to buy all new drivebelts for it anyways...atleast i know not to reuse them lol...especially my power steering belt...its cracked something awful lol...hey cadaver u got any kind of IM service perhaps google? or yahoo?

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

yeah i was going to buy all new drivebelts for it anyways...atleast i know not to reuse them lol...especially my power steering belt...its cracked something awful lol...hey cadaver u got any kind of IM service perhaps google? or yahoo?

yes i have aim but:
a) at work right now
b) fawking ex-roomie had the internet disconnected and Time Warner won't let us reuse the equipment so i have to go get another modem before the internet will be on at home.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

yes i have aim but:
a) at work right now
b) fawking ex-roomie had the internet disconnected and Time Warner won't let us reuse the equipment so i have to go get another modem before the internet will be on at home.

yeah im at work also...plus i dont have internet at the house...but im lookin thru ya pics man and its like alien language to me lol...i see ur doin this at ur home...my problem is im at an apartment doin this lol...and my space to have stuff laid around is very limited lol...when i take off the axles and disconnect the tranny...does the tranny has to come completely out from under the car? or can it stay under it as long as its sittin on somethin to hold it up???

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

yeah im at work also...plus i dont have internet at the house...but im lookin thru ya pics man and its like alien language to me lol...i see ur doin this at ur home...my problem is im at an apartment doin this lol...and my space to have stuff laid around is very limited lol...when i take off the axles and disconnect the tranny...does the tranny has to come completely out from under the car? or can it stay under it as long as its sittin on somethin to hold it up???

you probably should move it out from under the car just because the legs of the hoist might need to occupy the space that you want to leave the tranny in. tranny can sit on the ground... in any position. it doesn't care. just don't get dirt and crap inside of it.

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

you probably should move it out from under the car just because the legs of the hoist might need to occupy the space that you want to leave the tranny in. tranny can sit on the ground... in any position. it doesn't care. just don't get dirt and crap inside of it.

ok cool...now i gotta figure out where im gonna sit the tranny when i do disconnect it...definitely might wanna take it in the house...lots of thieves around here lol...s**t wished i had someone who could just help me out with it that knows how to becuz im going thru hell lol and maybe i could have it done faster then im expecting it to actually be done by just me lol...

*CapedCadaver* · 11-04-2008, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140

ok cool...now i gotta figure out where im gonna sit the tranny when i do disconnect it...definitely might wanna take it in the house...lots of thieves around here lol...s**t wished i had someone who could just help me out with it that knows how to becuz im going thru hell lol and maybe i could have it done faster then im expecting it to actually be done by just me lol...

i might be able to come down and help but i'd still need a little bit of $ for it.. i'm eating Ramen all month to recover from a very-unexpected $600 expense that i wasn't even remotely prepared for... but it's only like an hour ride from Raleigh to your place right?

MaximaFan4140 · 11-04-2008, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

i might be able to come down and help but i'd still need a little bit of $ for it.. i'm eating Ramen all month to recover from a very-unexpected $600 expense that i wasn't even remotely prepared for... but it's only like an hour ride from Raleigh to your place right?

now i remember u told me $200 for you to do it yaself...but how much u thinking since im definitely going to be doing it also??

RivuxGamma · 11-04-2008, 04:50 PM

I just thought I'd post a follow-up to my problem. I had the linkage and shifting mechanism around the shifter replaced and that fixed about 99% of the problem. The only thing is that the shifter now has 2 extra neutral positions, but the transmission shifts through all the gears just fine. Even the wacky problem with the temperature gauge going up and down with the turn signal was fixed.

I just have some of the more minor (comparatively) problems to work out like the speedometer, the tachometer, A/C, defrost, and the right high beam.

I replaced the right headlight bulb and that didn't seem to help, so I've been cleaning a lot of the electrical contact and greasing them with dielectric grease in my spare time. I've also checked fuses and none seem to be blown.

RobiD · 11-04-2008, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pearl93VE

Go look for one in the 1st-3rd gen section classifieds.

Thanks Pearl93VE,

My difficulty is that I live in Australia and from what I can see, most if not all Gen 3 in the classifieds are in the US.

I am not able to post in the Classifieds yet in order to ask if there is anyone from Australia parting out a right-hand drive Gen 3.

I'll keep looking.

David

*Pearl93VE* · 11-04-2008, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

Thanks Pearl93VE,

My difficulty is that I live in Australia and from what I can see, most if not all Gen 3 in the classifieds are in the US.

I am not able to post in the Classifieds yet in order to ask if there is anyone from Australia parting out a right-hand drive Gen 3.

I'll keep looking.

David

Are you sure the window switches are different? I guess I never thought about that, them being the same parts, only mirrored. Just the electrical part of of the master window switch is a square so I don't know if they're swappable or not. If it is the case, I'm sure it would be easier to buy a part out of the classifieds and have it shipped overseas, probably way less than $160.

RobiD · 11-04-2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pearl93VE

Are you sure the window switches are different? I guess I never thought about that, them being the same parts, only mirrored. Just the electrical part of of the master window switch is a square so I don't know if they're swappable or not. If it is the case, I'm sure it would be easier to buy a part out of the classifieds and have it shipped overseas, probably way less than $160.

On the right-hand drive, the window rocker switches are closest to you at the bottom and move towards the outside of the vehicle at the top. On the left-hand drive, it is the same but mirrored ie: on the left-hand side, so the circuit board inside would also be different.

With the exchange rate on the Aussie dollar to the USD, it would probably cost more at the moment. (I thinks it's around 69cents to one USD.)

*Pearl93VE* · 11-04-2008, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

On the right-hand drive, the window rocker switches are closest to you at the bottom and move towards the outside of the vehicle at the top. On the left-hand drive, it is the same but mirrored ie: on the left-hand side, so the circuit board inside would also be different.

With the exchange rate on the Aussie dollar to the USD, it would probably cost more at the moment. (I thinks it's around 69cents to one USD.)

Rough, sorry man, that sucks. I guess you could check the International section and see if anyone is parting out in Australia. You may wanna call around to some electricians and see if they're solder everything up for you. Depends on how much they'd charge I guess.

RobiD · 11-04-2008, 08:56 PM

I'll have to work on the windows but in the mean time, here is another strange issue I have.

I had the Aircon regassed about a year ago. The climate control worked fine at this point, just not very cold.

About a week after having it regassed, the LCD display worked intermittently (and still does) Sometimes it lights full brightness and it can then vary from pitch black to full brightness.

Next, the different speeds for the fan stopped working. I only have full blast.

I have to set the temp to 18deg Celcius and turn the fan to flat out manually. If it reaches 18degrees in Auto mode, it switches off, or rather, it goes to speed 3 (4 being flat out) but of course 3, 2 and 1 don't work so in effect it doesn't move any air around.

Anyone experienced or heard of this problem, or any ideas?

Thanks
David

PS. Yes, I'm at a point that I want to fix all those little annoying things that build up.

Obsession_92-94 · 11-04-2008, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

About a week after having it regassed, the LCD display worked intermittently (and still does) Sometimes it lights full brightness and it can then vary from pitch black to full brightness.

Next, the different speeds for the fan stopped working. I only have full blast.

I have to set the temp to 18deg Celcius and turn the fan to flat out manually. If it reaches 18degrees in Auto mode, it switches off, or rather, it goes to speed 3 (4 being flat out) but of course 3, 2 and 1 don't work so in effect it doesn't move any air around.

Do you know if any of the connections were tampered with when you got the air condition fixed?

*internetautomar* · 11-04-2008, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PMAX08

Hey, anyone ever heard of having to cut the rear strut casings on a 92se to insert tokico HP's? I know that you have to do this on the front when putting in Koni's, but tokico's too and on the back? I'm getting new suspension put in along with a lot of other parts and got one of my local performance shops to do the work and he said he has to do this to get the rear HP's in.

you don't need to cut, there is a nut on the top that unscrews.

RobiD · 11-04-2008, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obsession_92-94

Do you know if any of the connections were tampered with when you got the air condition fixed?

I have no idea what was done other than regassing and from what I understand, that is a straight forward job, not requiring removal or changing of any connections other than the regassing valve. (I may be wrong)

*** Oh, congratulations to all the citizens of the USA on electing your first black American President. We are all excited in Australia about where this great leader 'to be' will take America.

*internetautomar* · 11-05-2008, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobiD

I have no idea what was done other than regassing and from what I understand, that is a straight forward job, not requiring removal or changing of any connections other than the regassing valve. (I may be wrong)

*** Oh, congratulations to all the citizens of the USA on electing your first black American President. We are all excited in Australia about where this great leader 'to be' will take America.

you are correct in the statement that they should not have had to disconnect anything.