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Hey, this is probably a dumb question but what does SFC stand for, ive read that installing sfc's will greatly improve handling but i dont know what it is, i'm about to have rotors/brakes, tokico blues and B&G lowering springs, new axles, new control arms with bushings and ball joints, new inner and outter tie rod ends and new sway bars installed and would like to inquire about get sfc's if i could only find out exactly what they are, thx in advance
I have a 94 GXE (115K mi), and through this great forum I have discovered that I have had many common 3rd Gen ailments in past (exhaust manifold bolts, failed injectors, rear speakers with no sound after new head unit, stuck antenna mast, etc.) I love this car because, overall, it has been dependable and most of all because it is paid off!
The first issue I have currently is a nagging rattling sound coming from the rear suspension when going over bumps. It doesn't make any noise when I bounce the rear of the car by hand. Elsewhere, someone said it could be broken sway bar mounting brackets, but they don't seem broken (would it be obvious if they are broken?). Any other ideas on what it could be?
The second issue is one that I realized I have by reading other threads. Very occasionally, I will get a clattering sound from the engine on cold starts. It goes away quickly. I believe this is the "VTC issue". How seriously should I take this problem? Should I immediately try to get one of the replacement Toyota filters installed? It's not clear whether the different filters can actually prevent the problem from getting worse.
At this point in the car's life, I'm willing to put about $1K per year into the car in repairs, because it's cheaper than a new car (or even a different used car) and I know where the car has been (1 owner - me). Thanks for your help and advice.
The first issue I have currently is a nagging rattling sound coming from the rear suspension when going over bumps. It doesn't make any noise when I bounce the rear of the car by hand. Elsewhere, someone said it could be broken sway bar mounting brackets, but they don't seem broken (would it be obvious if they are broken?). Any other ideas on what it could be?
Your going to have to get under there and look around thoroughly for the rattle/broken part, it may be in the exhaust system(broken hanger or something like that) it may be a broken parallel link, or more likely the bushings inside the parallel link/s. It may also be a bad strut mount insulator, or worst case scenario, the rear wheel well where the rear struts mount to may be rusted/rotted. other area to look at are the rear wheel bearings, coil springs, etc. Jack the rear of the car up, put it on jack stands, this should give you plenty of room to look around for broken parts, it will also release the pressure off the rear suspension, making it a little easier to shake stuff around and hopefully locate the rattle
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The second issue is one that I realized I have by reading other threads. Very occasionally, I will get a clattering sound from the engine on cold starts. It goes away quickly. I believe this is the "VTC issue". How seriously should I take this problem? Should I immediately try to get one of the replacement Toyota filters installed? It's not clear whether the different filters can actually prevent the problem from getting worse.
You posted that you have a 94 "GXE" right?
If you indeed have a gxe, then you don't have vtc's. The gxe 3rd gens only have the sohc vg30e engine. the only model 3rd gen that have the vtc's are 92-94 SE model with the dohc VE30DE engine. The following pics show the difference in engines.
I've had a pacesetter sts on my car for many years now, I've had no problems with it, works flawlessly. alot of people have talked sheit about the pacesetter sts on here in the past, but idk why.
BTW: I seen your cardomain page(nice car ) you have a "Sun Hyper voltage system" on your VE? Care to elaborate more on this? i'm curious
my 1990 se maxima stalls on warm days... i dont mean like a little hesitation, it falls flat on its face like im running out of gas, and it surges HARD under full throttle. i have changed vac hoses, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,all filters, and coil.. but it still remains, no codes,... and on colder days(60deg, its west texas thats almost winter) it will run way better..
I had the same problem on my 92 maxima se when i bought it, turned out to be the coils and plugs, well atleast thats what i replaced, maybe it was one or the other, but i know that the previous owner put the wrong plugs in it so maybe it was just the plugs
BTW: I seen your cardomain page(nice car ) you have a "Sun Hyper voltage system" on your VE? Care to elaborate more on this? i'm curious
Ya i have a Sun Hyper voltage system, but i don't think its worth it (well the one i bought), i mean i didn't see or feel any difference. i would probally just get a grounding kit instead.
Ya i have a Sun Hyper voltage system, but i don't think its worth it (well the one i bought), i mean i didn't see or feel any difference. i would probally just get a grounding kit instead.
reason being, on any incandescent bulb, it's mostly yellow light. so filtering MOSTLY yellow light behing a BLUE tint is going to block out most of your useable light and leave you ONLY with blue light, which is the RAREST part of the spectrum in incandescent bulbs. moral of the story: clear-glass bulbs or go home.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Description:
# Luminics Light Bulbs, Color: Ultra White 5,150K
# Wattage: 12V65/55W, Output: 140/120W
# *For Auto Styling use only. Not DOT.
# Not recommended for driving lights use.
# Price is for two (2) light bulbs
They say, but "don't say" in BS terms that these bulbs are illegal for street use.
I saw a forum where someone said that a 5th gen Maxima FSTB will fit on 3rd gen. Is this true?
The 3rd gen stillen bar will fit any 89-94 maxima..But the cheapo ebay bars will only fit the VG30E ( sohc) engine.
The cheapo ebay strut bar for the 5th gen will fit the 92-94 VE30DE (dohc) engine, with a small modification to the passenger side a/c strut tower bracket(you have to bend it down a little)
Can Anyone post a how-to on ways to go about taking parts off car to prepare for an engine swap?? guess wut im sayin is...im preparing my 89 SE 5spd for an engine swap and im doing alot of the work myself to get it ready to have second engine thrown in and im wonderin if any of you could post instructions on how and the way you went about doing that when you went about ur engine swap??
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
The 3rd gen stillen bar will fit any 89-94 maxima..But the cheapo ebay bars will only fit the VG30E ( sohc) engine.
The cheapo ebay strut bar for the 5th gen will fit the 92-94 VE30DE (dohc) engine, with a small modification to the passenger side a/c strut tower bracket(you have to bend it down a little)
the cheapo egay bar I had didn't need any mods. you just need to find the one with the right brackets.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
What's up everyone ....Hope everyone is doing good.... Here's my problem...
yesterday i was installing my stereo and when it came down to connecting the wires, i accidentally connected the orange dimmer light to the yellow 12volt wire and after doing that the fuse for the audio and tail lights blew....i replaced the tail lights fuse and then my lights in the back and the dash came back on...after i turned my car off then on again...the fuse didn't blow out, but the dash lights now do not want to come on at all....my lights in the back are working now with no problem....can anyone maybe suggest sumthin to me that maybe i have over looked ?...it really sucks driving at night b/c i can't see anything !!!....Thanks all you maxima heads for you advice !!....pEaCE !
---matty matt----
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
where would i be able to het the brakets. i have been looking and no luck
as far as I can tell, you'd need to make some. possibly reusing the factory ones, but I havent taken my seats apart, so I couldn't be sure.
and since I have never installed racing seats, I am unsure if most manufacturers have a a standard bolt pattern (such as the bolt pattern most lcd screens), or not.
I found that sparco seems to make some (for a 90-93 maxima?) http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/sp.html
although, I cannot find it listed on the sparco site...
I have had my Maxima '93 for a couple of years now. It was a gift from an inlaw. At the time they told me that the electric windows don't work and that it would cost around $500 to fix. (I wasn't given details but I assume it is the electronic module in the driverside door. Oh, a little more detail. No sound of motors on any door, individual doors don't work. No switches on the drivers door work except the door lock switch.
So my questions are... Is this a common problem with them?
If so, is there a cheaper workaround?
Any suggestions of links to help test the module myself (I'm sort of handy with electronics) or links to similar problems?
I have had my Maxima '93 for a couple of years now. It was a gift from an inlaw. At the time they told me that the electric windows don't work and that it would cost around $500 to fix. (I wasn't given details but I assume it is the electronic module in the driverside door. Oh, a little more detail. No sound of motors on any door, individual doors don't work. No switches on the drivers door work except the door lock switch.
So my questions are... Is this a common problem with them?
If so, is there a cheaper workaround?
Any suggestions of links to help test the module myself (I'm sort of handy with electronics) or links to similar problems?
Thanks in advance.
David
mornin'.
newbies are always welcome.
as obvious as it sounds, did you check the fuses?
it is pretty common for window regulators to fail. if you were to take the door pannels off, and look at the window regulators, if the wire is all twisted up, like spagetti, rather than neatly coiled, the regulator is bad.
if the motor doesnt "wrrrr", the motor is probably bad, too.
Where is the garage jack point to get your car on jack stands!!!!!! stupid question but it's a pita, neither of my manuals say where to jack except theobv frame rail ones.
__________________
CAI, EGR removed, FSTB, DZ springs, SS brake lines, Cross Drilled Rotors, ES Poly bushings, 9007 upgrade, Front lip and repaint, fogs, 2x alpine type s 10's, pioneer HU Alpine Amp,
I had the same problem on my 92 maxima se when i bought it, turned out to be the coils and plugs, well atleast thats what i replaced, maybe it was one or the other, but i know that the previous owner put the wrong plugs in it so maybe it was just the plugs
what do you mean "wrong plugs"? what plugs should i be running? changed the coil no effect what-so-ever.. why would it run better when it cold outside?.. this is my first import car i have been building domestics for along time now ('60's mustangs and cameros) what should the fuel pressure be? and the igniton timing be?
mornin'.
newbies are always welcome.
as obvious as it sounds, did you check the fuses?
it is pretty common for window regulators to fail. if you were to take the door pannels off, and look at the window regulators, if the wire is all twisted up, like spagetti, rather than neatly coiled, the regulator is bad.
if the motor doesnt "wrrrr", the motor is probably bad, too.
Thanks for your reply BenStoked.
Fuses are fine.
No windows in the car work from the drivers door or each door directly. I thought it may have been an issue someone may have heard of.
It has a section on "Trouble diagnosis for Power Window" which shows diagrams on where to put the multimeter to check for continuity and power at different points in order to isolate what the problem is.
So I guess I'll start the long arduous tast of taking the doors apart to test.
First off I would take your driver door panel off and see if the switch is plugged in, the motor is connected to power, the wire is fine etc. Power windows are real easy to diagnose but you have to take off your door panels or youre just shooting blind. A lot of times people will put pieces of wood or whatever to prop the window up when broken so check for unusual items holding the window up also.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
as far as I can tell, you'd need to make some. possibly reusing the factory ones, but I havent taken my seats apart, so I couldn't be sure.
and since I have never installed racing seats, I am unsure if most manufacturers have a a standard bolt pattern (such as the bolt pattern most lcd screens), or not.
I found that sparco seems to make some (for a 90-93 maxima?) http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/sp.html
although, I cannot find it listed on the sparco site...
thanks alot. i will go look for them online on other websites
Can Anyone post a how-to on ways to go about taking parts off car to prepare for an engine swap?? guess wut im sayin is...im preparing my 89 SE 5spd for an engine swap and im doing alot of the work myself to get it ready to have second engine thrown in and im wonderin if any of you could post instructions on how and the way you went about doing that when you went about ur engine swap??
???????anything???????
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
That's a pretty heavy load on someone. Try searching for Engine swap in the third-gen specific area and I'm sure you will get many results on it. There have been quite a few engine swap threads over the past few years that have tons of good info.
hey im new here n jus bought my buddies old 94 maxima. it had all blown factory speakers (non bose) but im having trouble with the front 4x6's i bought infinity reference 6412cfp speakers and they dont fit in the housing the car comes with. has anyone else had this problem and are there any replacement pieces that will hold them?
thanks in advance
Sux you bought 4x6's to put in the front doors, I had 4x6s in the front doors of my max, which did have the BOSE system, which has since been all rewired, but I unscrewed the mounting bracket or pod if ya prefer that houses the 4x6, spent about a minute with a dremel tool and cut myself out an opening for a 6.5, which I have in there now. Phenomenal difference in sound quality, albeit I hate any speakers smaller than 6 inches. Planning a new install to squeeze a pair of 6x8's in the door. If it can be done, then do it.
First off I would take your driver door panel off and see if the switch is plugged in, the motor is connected to power, the wire is fine etc. Power windows are real easy to diagnose but you have to take off your door panels or youre just shooting blind. A lot of times people will put pieces of wood or whatever to prop the window up when broken so check for unusual items holding the window up also.
Thanks for the reply Tampamaximus.
Ok, so here is where I'm at. What a day. Thought I'd just quickly replace the rear deck speakers..... hah! Finally put replacements in as the old ones were just the cones in the middle with nothing holding them there... well worn.
Got the new speakers in (haven't reassembled yet) .... nothing. Great. So that's a problem for another day. Reassembled the back and started on troubleshooting the electric windows.
Thanks to the info that I linked to previously, I followed the fault diagnosis protocol as written in the manual.
Disassembled the drivers side door. Wiring good, no obvious problems.
With my trusty multi-meter, I proceded to test for voltage (yes, voltage coming into the master switch is fine) then I did continuity tests as per the guidelines, then all of a sudden I bumped another terminal and the rear left window moved (bear in mind that I am only testing for continuity with my multimeter, not supplying voltage anywhere). Then I tried a few other terminals, + on the terminal and - on the body and low and behold, all the windows (one at a time, not all at once) would move, but only down.
I thought to myself, if I can get them down, then I can get them up... Gong.... wrong. I finished up with all windows but the drivers side fully down and no way of getting them back up.
I had my old ducati battery in the garage so then I removed each door trim and applied 12vdc directly to the motor to put the windows back up. It worked and now I'm water proof again. (bear in mind that while I'm doing this, the radio is saying it's going to rain... great)
So anyway, long story short, all the windows work (didn't check the drivers door while I had it dissassembled and I didn't want the pull it apart again) but they don't work from any switches.
My 92 se m/t is hard to start. I hear a whining/whistling sound when I try to start the car without the engine engaging. After numerous times trying to crank the engine, it will finally start with an horrible grinding noise. From doing some searches, I think it is the starter solenoid going bad and I need to change it. Is this a fair assessment?
A new starter costs $240 with a $10 core charge at parts source (I'm in Canada.) Is that a good price?
My 92 se m/t is hard to start. I hear a whining/whistling sound when I try to start the car without the engine engaging. After numerous times trying to crank the engine, it will finally start with an horrible grinding noise. From doing some searches, I think it is the starter solenoid going bad and I need to change it. Is this a fair assessment?
Yes, it definitely sounds like you have a bad starter. They usually don't have just the solenoid at the parts stores, they usually sell the starter/solenoid as a whole unit.
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A new starter costs $240 with a $10 core charge at parts source (I'm in Canada.) Is that a good price?
Reman starters for the 3rd gen usually sell for about $100 in the us, brand new for about $150. so yeah, that is a little high.
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) you have a "Sun Hyper voltage system" on your VE? Care to elaborate more on this? i'm curious 
89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash
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