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no my check engine light hasnt come on at all...even ran thru self diagnostic check and nothing....seein as im not familiar with the 3rd gen engine...i have no idea wut vacuum lines and electrical connections deal with my problem....is it not a good idea to put a remans injector in the car?
no my check engine light hasnt come on at all...even ran thru self diagnostic check and nothing....seein as im not familiar with the 3rd gen engine...i have no idea wut vacuum lines and electrical connections deal with my problem....is it not a good idea to put a remans injector in the car?
well, when it comes to a vacuum leak, pretty much all hoses are game.
and no, do not put remans in your maxima.
well, when it comes to a vacuum leak, pretty much all hoses are game.
and no, do not put remans in your maxima.
yea i'm going through that right now with mine, a vac leak that is. when we did my motor swap we didn't finish until after the parts stores closed... it was 9pm, i was in atlanta and had to be in NC by morning.... so we just said screw it and i have been driving with a vac leak ever since. there's 2 under the TB, one coming out from the IM between the TB and the cylinder-shaped thing (IACV), one on the back-passengerside corner for the heatercore valve, one on the back driverside corner for the fuel pressure regulator, one big one for the brake booster, and a whole bunch on the driverside of the engine where the 2 solenoids (brown and green) are, and some going down from the end of that to a charcoal canister beneath the driverside headlight. not to mention the larger breather hoses and the PCV hose.
my car is missing the one from the passenger-side of the TB back to the EGR solenoid. idle bogs to 700 and rythmically dips to 550 and back up to 700, at about the same pace you'd dribble a basketball. and then in the mornings when it's really cold i'll start the car and it goes to 1500rpm but then creeps up toward 2000rpm before falling to 400 (yea 400, not 1400) and trying to stall. one morning it did stall, but usually it just tries to stall for about 10 seconds then goes back to 1500 and stumbles around up there for a while until the car warms up.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-20-2008 at 09:52 AM.
yea i'm going through that right now with mine, a vac leak that is. when we did my motor swap we didn't finish until after the parts stores closed... it was 9pm, i was in atlanta and had to be in NC by morning.... so we just said screw it and i have been driving with a vac leak ever since. there's 2 under the TB, one coming out from the IM between the TB and the cylinder-shaped thing (IACV), one on the back-passengerside corner for the heatercore valve, one on the back driverside corner for the fuel pressure regulator, one big one for the brake booster, and a whole bunch on the driverside of the engine where the 2 solenoids (brown and green) are, and some going down from the end of that to a charcoal canister beneath the driverside headlight. not to mention the larger breather hoses and the PCV hose.
my car is missing the one from the passenger-side of the TB back to the EGR solenoid. idle bogs to 700 and rythmically dips to 550 and back up to 700, at about the same pace you'd dribble a basketball. and then in the mornings when it's really cold i'll start the car and it goes to 1500rpm but then creeps up toward 2000rpm before falling to 400 (yea 400, not 1400) and trying to stall. one morning it did stall, but usually it just tries to stall for about 10 seconds then goes back to 1500 and stumbles around up there for a while until the car warms up.
wut part of nc u in??? i stay in fayetteville....and honestly there arent many people around here who know anything bout the maximas....but imma check all the vacuum lines and hopefully one of those is my problem and not an injector...god i hope not an injector...i really dont wanna scrap the motor in it cuz it does has 310k on it and im pretty sure i could get another 10k out of it...well nm...got a lifter ticking on me...so i might as well scrap it huh?? how long did it take you to put in the spare motor in yours Caped Cadaver???
wut part of nc u in??? i stay in fayetteville....and honestly there arent many people around here who know anything bout the maximas....but imma check all the vacuum lines and hopefully one of those is my problem and not an injector...god i hope not an injector...i really dont wanna scrap the motor in it cuz it does has 310k on it and im pretty sure i could get another 10k out of it...well nm...got a lifter ticking on me...so i might as well scrap it huh?? how long did it take you to put in the spare motor in yours Caped Cadaver???
lifters are pretty cheap... i also have some spare injectors of both types as well. plus 4 for the other style if you wanted to swap connectors. I'm in Raleigh.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
lifters are pretty cheap... i also have some spare injectors of both types as well. plus 4 for the other style if you wanted to swap connectors. I'm in Raleigh.
man im going thru hell with this car lol...never thought i would...u swapped the engine out yourself in ya max cadaver?? how long did it take you and how much hell did you go thru with it?? lol
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
man im going thru hell with this car lol...never thought i would...u swapped the engine out yourself in ya max cadaver?? how long did it take you and how much hell did you go thru with it?? lol
me and Goon9 did the swap... i actually let him do most of the work, not that I didn't have the ability to do it (i'd just swapped an engine in another 3rd gen a few weeks prior) but it was his house and the engine came from him so we just kept working on stuff until everything appeared to be together.. took us from about 3pm saturday to 10pm sunday with a few trips to the parts store and we stopped between like 8pm sat to 8am sun.. not too bad considering we didn't even plan to swap the engine on-the-spot. only thing we messed up was aforementioned vac lines, and we lost one of the motor mount bolts so we kinda had to make due with another similar bolt.
the other maxima, my friend's 89 that i got in may w/ a blown motor, took us from 8am monday all through the night stopped at 6am tuesday... and then from 6pm tuesday to 5am wendesday morning when it finally cranked. then we did the timing belt and water pump that weekend, and a few other odds and ends (since i bought the car not-running i didn't know what else was even wrong with it... there was a lil bit to deal with, to say the least) but at $450 how could i say no?
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Need help... I am replacing a clutch and pressure plate in a 1991 Maxima SE 5sp. Almost done, my question is, how many bolts hold the the Support Rod bracket to the transaxle? There looks like there are 2 mounting holes and the stud where the support rod bushing goes on. In my manual and other diagrams they only show 1 bolt? Thanks for any info on this..
Need help... I am replacing a clutch and pressure plate in a 1991 Maxima SE 5sp. Almost done, my question is, how many bolts hold the the Support Rod bracket to the transaxle? There looks like there are 2 mounting holes and the stud where the support rod bushing goes on. In my manual and other diagrams they only show 1 bolt? Thanks for any info on this..
diagram is wrong. it's 2. on in the very very rear of the bracket, and one up above the passenger side axle shaft as it enters the transmission. and then there's a 3rd bolt that holds the transmission to the gusset on the engine. One of the bolts holding the support bracket to the engine is technically an engine-to-transmission bolt because it goes through the block as well as the bracket (bracket, then block, then into tranny), therefore, the diagram only shows the bolt that goes into the bracket and tranny only.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
diagram is wrong. it's 2. on in the very very rear of the bracket, and one up above the passenger side axle shaft as it enters the transmission. and then there's a 3rd bolt that holds the transmission to the gusset on the engine. One of the bolts holding the support bracket to the engine is technically an engine-to-transmission bolt because it goes through the block as well as the bracket (bracket, then block, then into tranny), therefore, the diagram only shows the bolt that goes into the bracket and tranny only.
one bolt is shown on your diagram. the other bolt is bolt #4 on page MT-7. they show it on MT-7 instead cuz #4 is actually an engine/tranny bolt that just happens to share responsibility as a bracket mount bolt as well, whereas the one in the diagram you showed does nothing but hold the bracket onto the tranny case. bolt #6 is gusset-to-tranny and does NOT go through the bracket.
after having done 5 tranny installations since february (swap in feb, clutch in may, matt's car in august, my VLSD swap in september then my engine swap in october).... this stuff becomes second nature VERY quickly
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
I have a 92 Maxima with the SOHC motor 135k miles, no CEL. I had a misfire develop that presents itself at all throttle positions and coolant temps. I could pull the ign wire from the middle plug on the front cylinder bank ( I think this is cyl #3?) and it would NOT affect the idle. This tells me that this is the dead cylinder, as pulling the other wires off of their respective plugs WOULD drastically change the way that the engine ran. I pulled all the spark plugs and the plug for this cyl was very fouled while the others were clean.
The following parts were then changed:
Spark Plugs
Coil
Dist. Cap and Rotor Button
Ign. Wires
After all of this, the problem remained, unaltered
I then swapped all six injectors and the rails with some from another car (and obviously replaed the intake manifold gaskets), I also replaced most of the vac lines since they were very brittle.
After this the problem remained. I then unhooked the battery for a few hours, and hooked it back up. The car ran MUCH better, with a slight misfire that was intermittent. I mean the car ran perfectly, with a slight hiccup that rarely occured.
Today the problem returned. Dead cyl, (the one I assume is #3, the one in the middle of the front bank) misfires always. I have found a couple of threads that express a similar problem, but the solution was never posted. Any ideas? Something I am missing? other threads pointed to the Knock sensor, or the coolant temp sensor, but this was never confirmed or denied. I am tired of swapping parts when they dont solve the problem. Help would be very appreciated!
one bolt is shown on your diagram. the other bolt is bolt #4 on page MT-7. they show it on MT-7 instead cuz #4 is actually an engine/tranny bolt that just happens to share responsibility as a bracket mount bolt as well, whereas the one in the diagram you showed does nothing but hold the bracket onto the tranny case. bolt #6 is gusset-to-tranny and does NOT go through the bracket.
after having done 5 tranny installations since february (swap in feb, clutch in may, matt's car in august, my VLSD swap in september then my engine swap in october).... this stuff becomes second nature VERY quickly
haha!! i just made you type all that ish
I know exactly what you were saying dude.
It's been a long time(05) since i did a tranny swap/drop on these cars, so i just popped the fsm up for the answer.
I have a 92 Maxima with the SOHC motor 135k miles, no CEL. I had a misfire develop that presents itself at all throttle positions and coolant temps. I could pull the ign wire from the middle plug on the front cylinder bank ( I think this is cyl #3?) and it would NOT affect the idle. This tells me that this is the dead cylinder, as pulling the other wires off of their respective plugs WOULD drastically change the way that the engine ran. I pulled all the spark plugs and the plug for this cyl was very fouled while the others were clean.
The following parts were then changed:
Spark Plugs
Coil
Dist. Cap and Rotor Button
Ign. Wires
After all of this, the problem remained, unaltered
I then swapped all six injectors and the rails with some from another car (and obviously replaed the intake manifold gaskets), I also replaced most of the vac lines since they were very brittle.
After this the problem remained. I then unhooked the battery for a few hours, and hooked it back up. The car ran MUCH better, with a slight misfire that was intermittent. I mean the car ran perfectly, with a slight hiccup that rarely occured.
Today the problem returned. Dead cyl, (the one I assume is #3, the one in the middle of the front bank) misfires always. I have found a couple of threads that express a similar problem, but the solution was never posted. Any ideas? Something I am missing? other threads pointed to the Knock sensor, or the coolant temp sensor, but this was never confirmed or denied. I am tired of swapping parts when they dont solve the problem. Help would be very appreciated!
did you perform a resistance test on the injectors that came out, and the ones that went in? they should be 10-14 ohms between the 2 pins. it's possible your just-installed injector on one of the cylinders just happened to be bad... since the rail came from another car, rather than being brand new injectors, you never know if one of the injectors was just about to crap out. so perhaps if you locate the bad injector, just take one of your old ones that wasn't on #3 (if you still have them around) and just swap that one injector into the place of the bad one you have now, IF that is the problem. otherwise it would have to be a dirty injector plug, causing poor electrical connection, or bad wiring back to the ECU. but based on the fact that it ran well and just flared up again... i'd look at the current injectors' resistances first.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
did you perform a resistance test on the injectors that came out, and the ones that went in? they should be 10-14 ohms between the 2 pins. it's possible your just-installed injector on one of the cylinders just happened to be bad... since the rail came from another car, rather than being brand new injectors, you never know if one of the injectors was just about to crap out. so perhaps if you locate the bad injector, just take one of your old ones that wasn't on #3 (if you still have them around) and just swap that one injector into the place of the bad one you have now, IF that is the problem. otherwise it would have to be a dirty injector plug, causing poor electrical connection, or bad wiring back to the ECU. but based on the fact that it ran well and just flared up again... i'd look at the current injectors' resistances first.
I will test the resistance on the ones that came out in the morning. The problem seems to be with the same injector (the one in the middle of the front bank), even now that it has flared back up. So a connector/ecu/wiring problem seems more likely than a bad injector ( I admit that it is still possibly a bad injector, just not likely). I think I saw a thread with a similar problem that may have been solved with a cleaning of the connector to the injector.
I will test the resistance on the ones that came out in the morning. The problem seems to be with the same injector (the one in the middle of the front bank), even now that it has flared back up. So a connector/ecu/wiring problem seems more likely than a bad injector ( I admit that it is still possibly a bad injector, just not likely). I think I saw a thread with a similar problem that may have been solved with a cleaning of the connector to the injector.
yea, those things get that green corrosion crap on them, and then they can't make a solid connection. might as well get electrical parts cleaner and clean off all the connectors anyways (it can't hurt... it will only help... do all the connectors in the engine bay tho not just the injector connectors) and if that doesn't help then ohm test both the ones that came out, and the ones that are still on the car.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
I have a 92 Maxima with the SOHC motor 135k miles, no CEL. I had a misfire develop that presents itself at all throttle positions and coolant temps. I could pull the ign wire from the middle plug on the front cylinder bank ( I think this is cyl #3?) and it would NOT affect the idle. This tells me that this is the dead cylinder, as pulling the other wires off of their respective plugs WOULD drastically change the way that the engine ran. I pulled all the spark plugs and the plug for this cyl was very fouled while the others were clean.
The following parts were then changed:
Spark Plugs
Coil
Dist. Cap and Rotor Button
Ign. Wires
After all of this, the problem remained, unaltered
I then swapped all six injectors and the rails with some from another car (and obviously replaed the intake manifold gaskets), I also replaced most of the vac lines since they were very brittle.
After this the problem remained. I then unhooked the battery for a few hours, and hooked it back up. The car ran MUCH better, with a slight misfire that was intermittent. I mean the car ran perfectly, with a slight hiccup that rarely occured.
Today the problem returned. Dead cyl, (the one I assume is #3, the one in the middle of the front bank) misfires always. I have found a couple of threads that express a similar problem, but the solution was never posted. Any ideas? Something I am missing? other threads pointed to the Knock sensor, or the coolant temp sensor, but this was never confirmed or denied. I am tired of swapping parts when they dont solve the problem. Help would be very appreciated!
Damn why does that sound just like the problem i am currently going thru with the engine thats still in my max to this day...i gave up in buying parts tryin to fix the problem when i got a spare motor...but urs does only got 132k or wutever while mines has broken 310k lol....AGED AND EXPERIENCED YEAH BABY!!!
__________________ 89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash Has Been Reborn!
Thanks CapedCadaver With My Motor Swap....We Both Went Thru Hell to Make It Run Again lol!
VG30E...2.5" Custom Catback to 3" Muffler...18" S-Tech Black on Chrome Wrapped in Pirelli P-Zero 215/35R18...2-10"JL Audio Powered by a Soundstorm 3600/1...5 x1/4's and 6x9's Powered by JVC 400/4 with Jensen 7 1/2 Flip-Out Touch Screen
Hello, it's me again. I've got a 93 Maxima and I'm slowly narrowing down that electrical issue (work and family and all that), but now there's a new problem. Over the past week, the shifter became hard to move. Last night, it became so stiff that I had to pull extremely hard on it to get it to move and then the transmission would only shift into park an neutral. After a little while it was stuck in park and the release button wouldn't even go in all the way. After about an hour, I managed to get it out of park and drove it home.
My first thought is something with the linkage. I will be able to check it in a bit, but haven't yet.
Has anyone ever come across something like this?
Also, is there anything tricky with the linkage that I should beware of?
__________________
I have limited abilities in auto repair, but I can swing a hammer at things. I just prefer to have guidance to swing the hammer correctly.
Hello, it's me again. I've got a 93 Maxima and I'm slowly narrowing down that electrical issue (work and family and all that), but now there's a new problem. Over the past week, the shifter became hard to move. Last night, it became so stiff that I had to pull extremely hard on it to get it to move and then the transmission would only shift into park an neutral. After a little while it was stuck in park and the release button wouldn't even go in all the way. After about an hour, I managed to get it out of park and drove it home.
My first thought is something with the linkage. I will be able to check it in a bit, but haven't yet.
Has anyone ever come across something like this?
Also, is there anything tricky with the linkage that I should beware of?
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
New here... I've got a 92 Maxima SE.. I want to put a front lip on but I'm not too impressed with the kits or the lack of available. Does anyone know of a car with a similar bumper and a better selection of lips. Looking to modify a lip to fit the maxima.. any ideas ?
New here... I've got a 92 Maxima SE.. I want to put a front lip on but I'm not too impressed with the kits or the lack of available. Does anyone know of a car with a similar bumper and a better selection of lips. Looking to modify a lip to fit the maxima.. any ideas ?
hi ya they dont offer many diff styles but i think the stillen kit looks pretty sick check out my pic i got up but as far as makin one fit thats all u lol id prob start wit a bmw 3 series the e36 body style thats what my headlights r from but then again its all what u like
does any one know any thin about the frontier vg33 the supercharged one? how is the lower intake manifold is it the same as the vg30 maxima???? some one let me know suttin about that thanks
New here... I've got a 92 Maxima SE.. I want to put a front lip on but I'm not too impressed with the kits or the lack of available. Does anyone know of a car with a similar bumper and a better selection of lips. Looking to modify a lip to fit the maxima.. any ideas ?
does any one know any thin about the frontier vg33 the supercharged one? how is the lower intake manifold is it the same as the vg30 maxima???? some one let me know suttin about that thanks
as far as I know, the lower stuff is similar, as far as the head-to-intake stuff goes.
HOWEVER!!!!
i dont think a supercharger would fit, since there is little-to-no room for the belt, with the fender well in stock form....
as far as I know, the lower stuff is similar, as far as the head-to-intake stuff goes.
HOWEVER!!!!
i dont think a supercharger would fit, since there is little-to-no room for the belt, with the fender well in stock form....
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Well, the transmission problem reared its ugly head again to such a degree that I had to have it towed to a shop. They evaluated it and told me that the linkage cable went out. I'm not so sure that's the only problem. I tried to move the part of the linkage that actually attaches to the transmission itself and managed to get a burn on my finger and moved it a tiny bit, but it didn't get out of reverse. There was also a small spark from the part that holds the rubber boot in place. It wasn't blue like an electrical spark, more like an orange smithereen from a blacksmith's hammer.
The shop told me that it's going to be around $320 to fix it because they had to order the entire linkage from a Nissan dealer. That's around the price of a used transmission for it.
Do you guys think the transmission might be trashed, as well?
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I have limited abilities in auto repair, but I can swing a hammer at things. I just prefer to have guidance to swing the hammer correctly.
Hey, this is probably a dumb question but what does SFC stand for, ive read that installing sfc's will greatly improve handling but i dont know what it is, i'm about to have rotors/brakes, tokico blues and B&G lowering springs, new axles, new control arms with bushings and ball joints, new inner and outter tie rod ends and new sway bars installed and would like to inquire about get sfc's if i could only find out exactly what they are, thx in advance
89 Maxima Aged and Experienced With 310k On The Dash
u lil.....
it is flipped upside down though IIRC
Linear Mode
