*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

[coolsun]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

even with low miles i'd never dream of paying that for any stock 3rd gen (even a Org-member maintained turbo'd modded 3rd gen won't get but maybe $5000)

think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something ), etc. You see what I mean?

Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.

but it is from a nissan dealer so it should have the nissan checks right?

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by coolsun

but it is from a nissan dealer so it should have the nissan checks right?

So you found a 3rd gen at a Nissan dealer? Hmmm. Well dealers are not always honest when it comes to trying to make a used car seem more valuable than it really is. But a dealer will always change out the fluids and stuff for you if you demand that they do so (or perhaps already done as standard practice, along with detailing it). Dealers usually only resell immaculate cars, regardless of age. So if it testdrives good an all the fluids are nice and bright, and the mileage seems correct (as per the carfax) then I guess it's a good car.... I don't know about the price though. Considering that it hasn't been driven much then it might have $5000 of maintenance-free life in it, but then again you could have still had the bushings dry-rot and dealers won't replace that stuff unless the car drifts b/c of it and you complain "i won't buy it unless you fix the drifting problem"

[blindnz]

hi, i was just checking out a 3rd gen maxima for sale from an older gent and it was a vq but it had a red head.
Is this normal for the vq engines or has it been repainted he has had it about 15 years

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by blindnz

hi, i was just checking out a 3rd gen maxima for sale from an older gent and it was a vq but it had a red head.
Is this normal for the vq engines or has it been repainted he has had it about 15 years

VG has red heads,
VQ? ask the other (*newer*) forums.

[druzzy]

I HAVE A 91 MAXI,IV ALREADY REPLACED THE INJECTORS ONCE WHEN I 1ST GOT IT,BUT ONLY 1 HAS WENT OUT THIS TIME,WHICH DOESNT MATTER SHOULD REPLACE ALL AT ONCE SENSE YOUR ALREADY IN THERE,ANYWAY DONT GET ON HERE MUCH, WORK TO MUCH.AND DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE CORRECT PLACE TO POST THIS BUT ,WTB SIX INJECTORS IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING...PLEASE...THX

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by druzzy

I HAVE A 91 MAXI,IV ALREADY REPLACED THE INJECTORS ONCE WHEN I 1ST GOT IT,BUT ONLY 1 HAS WENT OUT THIS TIME,WHICH DOESNT MATTER SHOULD REPLACE ALL AT ONCE SENSE YOUR ALREADY IN THERE,ANYWAY DONT GET ON HERE MUCH, WORK TO MUCH.AND DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE CORRECT PLACE TO POST THIS BUT ,WTB SIX INJECTORS IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING...PLEASE...THX

if you have already bought injectors for it once, you should now know not to be too cheap on it. check the other injectors (ohm test, search!) and any that are out of spec, buy new.

[HahitsKen]

about how many quarts of oil do we need to fill for an oil change? thanks

[Drew94gxe]

Hey guys, noob here

I recently had 2 fuel injectors changed by my mechanic to help with rough running. I assume they put new fuel injectors in as my receipt doesnt say anything about rebuilt ones.
Anyway, the car runs smooth now most of the time. However, it will occasionally stall even while accelerating. When I try to start the car it will stall over and over for 10 minutes or so, then will start running fine again. I took it into the shop and they looked at it for upwards of a week. Finally they told me it was the fuel pump that was bad causing low fuel pressure. I had that changed and a new fuel filter put in.
Unfortunately after I got the car back the problem persisted. Strangely It only happens to me at night or in the morning, but it is erratic(live in houston summer temps 90+ during the day).
Any help would be really great as I am pretty sure my mechanics don't know what to do with it.

[High Pockets]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

even with low miles i'd never dream of paying that for any stock 3rd gen (even a Org-member maintained turbo'd modded 3rd gen won't get but maybe $5000)

think about it this way. My grandpa's spare car is a 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.8L 2bbl with 60500 miles, original. It's the worst car I've ever driven (except my friend's probe haha. poor thing). The reason is because it was sitting around and all the rubber dry-rotted, the antifreeze congealed in the coolant passages, the gaskets receded, and the headliner is falling off, the steering wheel cracked, the tires are dry-rotted, the brake rotors are warped so you can't stop the damn thing smoothly, and it's an overall piece of crap. You want to buy a car that was driven at least twice a week, and at least 10 miles in a trip. No 1mile trips, no months on end without cranking. Low miles are worse for old cars than medium or high miles as long as the fluids were changed on time. (Esp tranny fluid in a VG auto). It makes like freaking 80HP cuz it's so messed up, makes nasty ticking sounds (lifters? rockers? ionno.. it's a pushrod motor), tranny shifts like crap, burns oil (leaky valve cover gaskets dripping onto exhaust manifold), cruise control doesn't work, half the electrical doesn't work, damn thing stalls between 1 and 5% throttle... have to stomp it to get away from a light w/o stalling, or pulse the pedal if you wanna move along slowly... drifts HARD to the right (that's my fault for hopping a tall curb in it when i was learning how to drive when i was 15 haha... bent something ), etc. You see what I mean?

Now the test drive will tell part of the story... if it runs great, pulls hard, turns well and shifts well, then I guess it's OK if you think it's OK. but definitely get it checked for bushing rot, fluid leaks, fluid color/levels, etc.

Thanks for the insight. Im definitely going to get it checked out and try to lower the price if it turns out that its in good condition. My budget is low and i just cant find any other cars under $10,000 that i like.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

Thanks for the insight. Im definitely going to get it checked out and try to lower the price if it turns out that its in good condition. My budget is low and i just cant find any other cars under $10,000 that i like.

if your budget is 10k USD, then you have alot of choices.

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

if your budget is 10k USD, then you have alot of choices.

if i had that budget...
[singsong=alto]
two-forty esss exxx!!!!
[bass]
s-14!!!!!
[soprano]
Turbo!!!!
[/singsong]

[High Pockets]

are those cars roomy inside..? im 6'6 so it kinda narrows my choices when only lookin at cars.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

are those cars roomy inside..? im 6'6 so it kinda narrows my choices when only lookin at cars.

so is my brother, he just learned to lean the seat back.

[HahitsKen]

Originally Posted by Pearl93VE

If you want to go that route, the 1993 Honda Accord Intake Kit ALSO works very well on VE's. Because if you have a saw-zaw or even a hacksaw, just make a 90 degree bend out of the S-Pipe they give you and run that below the headlight and into the fender, then just use the other pipe that goes from the MAF to the headlight. Only problem is that you have to use your stock Mid-Pipe, but all you have to do is take the resonator off and plug the bottom hole with a PVC cap upside down and cram it in there so the top sits flush with the resonator walls. It's virtually invisible and is effective, though I still want to get a mid-pipe made out of aluminum, I guess I could make one.

Also, if you're trying to go cheap on the VG30E CAI and don't want to buy Pacesetter or Warpspeed or whoever makes them, the 1993 Accord Intake Kit + 90 degree bend is the best solution. The 92-94 Intake will require a LOT of cutting in on the wheel well and IMO looks worse.

so its the 93 accord cold air intake kits right? and the custom bend shouldn't be that hard of a hassle?

[sleepyvg30e]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

are those cars roomy inside..? im 6'6 so it kinda narrows my choices when only lookin at cars.

yeah if your tall you wanna buy a 3rd gen its the original 4 door sports car

the pricce is a couple thousand too high u should be able to find a better deal then 5000 (i bought mine for 1500) but the VG is a very reliable engine the rest of the 10k could be enough to completely restore the car and add a few performance mods.

the main weakness with the VG is the timing belt make sure that was replaced recently

[BL Dozier]

new member, site is awsome, i have a question about an engine swap, would an after market 3.5 swap into a gen3 what about a 6sp from an altima, could anyother nissian/infinti engine swap into the gen 3 engine bay. a 3.7 or an vg30de thanks.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by BL Dozier

new member, site is awsome, i have a question about an engine swap, would an after market 3.5 swap into a gen3 what about a 6sp from an altima, could anyother nissian/infinti engine swap into the gen 3 engine bay. a 3.7 or an vg30de thanks.

3.5 swap was done by ONE person who bailed and never proved it worked. VGDE will never work cuz it's too big. 3.7 hasn't been tried yet and will be of equal difficulty to the VQ30/35 swap. Altima 6spd won't just bolt into onto any normal 3rd gen maxima engine.

[oldspice]

so i ran out of gas in my 91 maxima.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by oldspice

so i ran out of gas in my 91 maxima.
got some gas fot it. and it didnt start.
towed it home. changed fuel filter, spark plugs & wires.
still nothing. before this happened. it had been running a little rough.
like i had a bad injector. would this make it so my car wouldnt start at all?
any help is apprectiated. thanks.

have you verified that you are still getting spark (maybe ignition coil or power transistor died?). Have you verified that the injectors are spraying (hook multimeter to one of the injector's harnesses to see if the ECU is sending a signal)

[BL Dozier]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

3.5 swap was done by ONE person who bailed and never proved it worked. VGDE will never work cuz it's too big. 3.7 hasn't been tried yet and will be of equal difficulty to the VQ30/35 swap. Altima 6spd won't just bolt into onto any normal 3rd gen maxima engine.

thanks for writing back, names brian nice to meet you. let me just summarize that the 3.5 does swap, but still no physcial proof to it on this site. ok. next question would the pathfinder 4.o liter piston set carry over to the 3.5

also what about the spec v qr25de, would that drivetrain swap into a gen three engine and transmission, do you know if the spec v has factory nav.

and so far to date your saying no attempt on the hr and vhr, but its possible.

[oldspice]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

have you verified that you are still getting spark (maybe ignition coil or power transistor died?). Have you verified that the injectors are spraying (hook multimeter to one of the injector's harnesses to see if the ECU is sending a signal)

we took off the distributor cap and he said the crank isnt turning. said it would be a pain in the *** to fix. damnit man.

[BL Dozier]

hi guys brian here,

anyone know wheather the rb series in lines' with and w/o tc in would fit in the gen 3's as a options to the 3.5 and the vh's the 240's compartment cant be much tighter then the j30's right. i've seen a 240 swap.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by BL Dozier

hi guys brian here,

anyone know wheather the rb series in lines' with and w/o tc in would fit in the gen 3's as a options to the 3.5 and the vh's the 240's compartment cant be much tighter then the j30's right. i've seen a 240 swap.

it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the hood it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.

[AzureblueZ]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the roof it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.

Well said on all accounts!

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by oldspice

we took off the distributor cap and he said the crank isnt turning. said it would be a pain in the *** to fix. damnit man.

you need a new motor. your timing belt snapped. you probably did not run out of gas.
have fun.

[HahitsKen]

How large is the stock exhaust inlet? 2.25in. or 2.5in? thanks

[oldspice]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

you need a new motor. your timing belt snapped. you probably did not run out of gas.
have fun.

so theres no use wasting my time disassembling everthing to put a new belt in? lol. anyone know where i can find an engine in central florida.

[BL Dozier]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

it would cost you $20k to make a 3rd gen RWD... and the RB won't really fit anyways. Inlines are rather tall and long, and the VE was a special design to fit the low hoodline of the 3rd gen. Perhaps if you remove the hood it will fit, but you'll spend far less money and get far more HP working with the original engine.

what about bringing the j30 up to date with a qr25de would that engine be more fesible for todays standars rather then ponying up the highly unatainable 2k for the rwd swap, (guess a sixspeed ff swap is outta the question.) really want to stay away from a blower or SC at this point an work with the engine before i start to think about FI, ie octaine, air, cooling, spark, maybe a stroke. i dont even have a maxima at this point but i might consider one just doing so resarch at this point all relative imput is welcom.

by the way what year is your maxima looks awsome in your sig. what kinda numbers are you getting to the ground.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by BL Dozier

what about bringing the j30 up to date with a qr25de would that engine be more fesible for todays standars rather then ponying up the highly unatainable 2k for the rwd swap, (guess a sixspeed ff swap is outta the question.)

by the way what year is your maxima looks awsome in your sig. what kinda numbers are you getting to the ground.

sig? wat sig? only thing in my sig is "pieceout/falltopeaces" and Khantalha post-whoring while MASSIVELY drunk... (hey dave! JD and two 40d {???} of Budweiser f**ked me up!). my car is mostly stock in terms of power. I'm reconditioning the suspension to get the car nice and stable, then i won't be able to do many mods for a little while b/c i'm not going to have anywhere to work on it after i move.

anyways, if YOU want to front the cash for the R&D to get a 4banger to fit in a Maxima engine bay... go for it. Better off doing a VQ35 sway that way it's still a V6 (4banger in a maxima = altima = ).

the only known engine swaps that have been seen rolling are the VG-to-VE (all 3rd gen maxima stuff), and the VQ30 swap. Pics/video surfaced of a 3.5 swap but we never saw it roll... just crank and idle. RB, VGDE(TT), and all else are just the typical overenthusiastic n00b fantasies that won't work without spending gross amounts of cash to end up with a result that can be more easily attained with better results for far less money.

[internetautomar]

4 banger maxima = altima

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

4 banger maxima = altima

k i fixed it.

[oldspice]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

you need a new motor. your timing belt snapped. you probably did not run out of gas.
have fun.

got the top cover off. and the timing belt is still in tact. still have no idea whats wrong.

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by oldspice

got the top cover off. and the timing belt is still in tact. still have no idea whats wrong.

um.... have someone crank the motor over and see if the belt spins to be absolutely sure it's intact.

[High Pockets]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

it looks super clean no wear on the inside, just normal cracking on leather seats. the engine looks good but im no mechanic...it looks possible that it has this low of miles..im going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow..theyr asking 4900..what you guys think of that price if its legit?

So they just dropped the price to 3900. Im going to check it out tomorrow and take it to my mechanic. I didnt have time to go before but it looks like that worked in my advantage. If I could get it down to 3500 that would be a pretty good price wouldnt you say?(assuming its in good mechanical condition)

Also Ive heard people mention buyin 5th gen max rims for their 3rd gen. does anyone have a picture of this? If I do get this car I want a cheap option.

[High Pockets]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

I found a 92SE with 55k miles on it. It seems legit since its from a Nissan dealer. What do you guys think? The carfax only has one reading and its from 2007 so it doesnt help. Also is there a problem with the VTCs in the 90 SE? I know there was with my old 92 SE. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry this was the inital post

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by High Pockets

So they just dropped the price to 3900. Im going to check it out tomorrow and take it to my mechanic. I didnt have time to go before but it looks like that worked in my advantage. If I could get it down to 3500 that would be a pretty good price wouldnt you say?(assuming its in good mechanical condition)

still kinda high for a 3rd gen but you said it's in great condition and has really low miles.... so i guess 3500 would work

Originally Posted by High Pockets

Also Ive heard people mention buyin 5th gen max rims for their 3rd gen. does anyone have a picture of this? If I do get this car I want a cheap option.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...8/IMG_1857.jpg
in the middle (Maxitech)

[oldspice]

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

um.... have someone crank the motor over and see if the belt spins to be absolutely sure it's intact.

well it is intact in a way. lol. when i got to the bottom part all the teethes were gone. so it didnt snap. and i need a new tensioner. thinking i should replace everything while im down there. so relieved.

[Garf]

I got my 3rd gen with 210k fro 3300

ran into a little problem, my battery light keeps coming on, I have no clue how old the battery is, looks fine, no corrosion on it at allll or anything, I'm gonna take it in and get the battery/alternator checked.

I recently(two weeks ago) installed a new deck and two 10" subs, with only a 300 watt amp so its is not sucking too much power. The amp is wired so that is is switched off when the car is off so that's not the reason the battery is low. And other than that i've changed my spark plugsrecently as well. (bought bosch platinum pre-gapped). car ran fine w/o any battery warnings for at least 3-4 days after installing the plugs, and ran fine after sound system. jw if i do end up getting a new battery/alternator what you would reccomend. or if you can think of any reason my battery would do this.

thanks

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by oldspice

well it is intact in a way. lol. when i got to the bottom part all the teethes were gone. so it didnt snap. and i need a new tensioner. thinking i should replace everything while im down there. so relieved.

it may as well have snapped.
I'm hazarding a guess that even once you replace the timing belt it will still have issues.
once the cams and crank are no longer turning in sync the pistons hit the valves and then you have bent valve and /or damaged pistons. at that point the most cost effective option is to put in a running motor that you put a timing belt on before installing it.

[Born83]

Hello. I own a 93 GXE max and i'm having electrical problems. My cigarette ligter, radio, electronic entry keypad, and clock are all out. The seatbelt only retracts in ACC and the airbag light is on. I removed the lower steering wheel panel, checked the fuses, but found nothing wrong. Perhaps I'm not checking good enough. Any help is appreciated. thanks.