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Yeah there are 3 bolts. Only thing is you do have to use gaskets, the ones that come with the car don't seem to be reuseable. I'm using a $9 tube of permatex silicone gasket maker to redo the gaskets on my valve covers, intake manifold, throttle body, etc. A process I'll likely be repeating soon when I can afford to get NWP Engineering phenolic intake spacers.
It's either time for a new TB or you could have the old nipple welded back on. As far as where the hose is there is a big wad of them right in front of the IACV and it should be an easy find if you just look. I'll see if I can find a pic of the one you are looking for.
Didn't find a good pic but look where the red circle is, the hose should run along in that area. If you have to you can remove the dual duct to check for it.
I am wondering if the remains of the nipple can be removed (by a pair of needle nosed pliers, or drilling it out, and replacing it with some other tubing, held in place with plumber's solder or, if it can't be soldered by him, some jb-weld.
you could always just bypass the coolant lines. Im sure there is some sort of write-up about it. I wouldnt recommend it for a long term fix, but at least get you back on the road (without leaking coolant) for cheap and quick. (comments meant for ajan246, not 3g...)
I actually feel like bypassing now that I know what it does, sounds like it creates more intake heat which is what we are trying to defeat by buying the NWP intake spacers.
Though your idea for ghettofixing it sounds good to me.
I actually feel like bypassing now that I know what it does, sounds like it creates more intake heat which is what we are trying to defeat by buying the NWP intake spacers.
Though your idea for ghettofixing it sounds good to me.
part of the deal with the spacers is bypassing it, I believe.
Yeah I was reading up on it tonight and the VG30E kit does have a coolant bypass though I didn't know if it was that or some other thing like it.
yeah same thing. aaron might sell just the fitting. i dunno. i could never find those blasted things anywhere i looked. prolly b/c i fail, but whatever.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
I actually feel like bypassing now that I know what it does, sounds like it creates more intake heat which is what we are trying to defeat by buying the NWP intake spacers.
Though your idea for ghettofixing it sounds good to me.
does the throttle body bypass cause more heat i was gonna buy the mods since its so cheap but if its cuasing higher manifold teps then ill probably wait for the nwp kit
Well according to whats been said the bypass LOWERS heat.
yea it lowers heat, along with the rest of the NWP kit. the spacers also smoothen out the transitions from one part to another, rather than having the poorly-shapen gaskets cutting off bits of the airflow.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
You know, now that I think about it I can do that on the TB....you don't exactly have that luxury on valve covers. I'm just hoping I got enough on them to get a good seal and not enough on them that I've got gooey crap all over my valves f'ing s*** up.
I did my best but it was my first time and the tube was defective.
I am wondering if the remains of the nipple can be removed (by a pair of needle nosed pliers, or drilling it out, and replacing it with some other tubing, held in place with plumber's solder or, if it can't be soldered by him, some jb-weld.
you could always just bypass the coolant lines. Im sure there is some sort of write-up about it. I wouldnt recommend it for a long term fix, but at least get you back on the road (without leaking coolant) for cheap and quick. (comments meant for ajan246, not 3g...)
Yeah I initially thought the same thing... but i tried to get the remaining piece out without totally wrecking things and it's a stubborn guy
I am wondering if the remains of the nipple can be removed (by a pair of needle nosed pliers, or drilling it out, and replacing it with some other tubing, held in place with plumber's solder or, if it can't be soldered by him, some jb-weld.
you could always just bypass the coolant lines. Im sure there is some sort of write-up about it. I wouldnt recommend it for a long term fix, but at least get you back on the road (without leaking coolant) for cheap and quick. (comments meant for ajan246, not 3g...)
Yeah I initially thought the same thing... but i tried to get the remaining piece out without totally wrecking things and it's a stubborn guy. I'm considering juts bypassing until I can get a new TB
i have been reading in the post something about weak 5 spds but im confused, is it the vg ve trannys that are weak or the VQ trannys are the week ones?
__________________
1991 GXE Resurrected from the dead
1989 SE gutted for parts and 5 speed.
i have been reading in the post something about weak 5 spds but im confused, is it the vg ve trannys that are weak or the VQ trannys are the week ones?
the vg auto is weak... both the VG and VE manuals are generally regarded as decently strong tho some cite the VE as being stronger than the VG manual.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
ey idk if this is a dumb question or not but can i throw a cold air intake into a my 90 max?
Yes, there isn't one made for our cars but you can get an ebay 90-93 Honda Accord intake and it fits. I opted for a short ram but guys like pearl have done a little cutting and I think one additional bend and used the full CAI.
How hard is it to change the tranny fluid on these cars? My Uncle is going to give me a 1992 Maxima, and the first couple things I want to do it change the oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid and coolant. How long and how much will this take?
How hard is it to change the tranny fluid on these cars? My Uncle is going to give me a 1992 Maxima, and the first couple things I want to do it change the oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid and coolant. How long and how much will this take?
is it an SE or GXE?
GXE has no easy way to change the trans fluid
SE has a pan on the bottom you can drop to change the fluid
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Hey I Own A 1989 Maxima That Ran Fine Until The Timing Belt Jumped...I Had A Shade Tree Machanic Put My Timing Belt Back On But Im Not Sure If He Set My Timing Right Cause Now I Hear A Misfire And When At A Stop Sign My Car Acts Like It Want 2 Cut Off But It Drives Normal @ High Speeds..What Do U Think The Problem Could Be...And Also I Hear No Signs Of The Motor Knocking Or Ticking Real Loud
Hey I Own A 1989 Maxima That Ran Fine Until The Timing Belt Jumped...I Had A Shade Tree Machanic Put My Timing Belt Back On But Im Not Sure If He Set My Timing Right Cause Now I Hear A Misfire And When At A Stop Sign My Car Acts Like It Want 2 Cut Off But It Drives Normal @ High Speeds..What Do U Think The Problem Could Be...And Also I Hear No Signs Of The Motor Knocking Or Ticking Real Loud
perhaps some bent valves. have the compression checked.
Hey I Own A 1989 Maxima That Ran Fine Until The Timing Belt Jumped...I Had A Shade Tree Machanic Put My Timing Belt Back On But Im Not Sure If He Set My Timing Right Cause Now I Hear A Misfire And When At A Stop Sign My Car Acts Like It Want 2 Cut Off But It Drives Normal @ High Speeds..What Do U Think The Problem Could Be...And Also I Hear No Signs Of The Motor Knocking Or Ticking Real Loud
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenStoked
perhaps some bent valves. have the compression checked.
I'm sure that is it.
unless it snapped while parked, it bent valves.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I was just thinking, since my instrument cluster on my vg went bad. I was wondering if someone has ever replace theirs with one from a 4th Gen. Also I was wondering as well if someone has ever replaced their Master cylinder with one from a 300z or any other nissan with a larger brake system. Thanks in advance.
I was just thinking, since my instrument cluster on my vg went bad. I was wondering if someone has ever replace theirs with one from a 4th Gen. Also I was wondering as well if someone has ever replaced their Master cylinder with one from a 300z or any other nissan with a larger brake system. Thanks in advance.
never heard of anyone using a 4th gen cluster in a 3rd gen, except a rare case where they had a 4th gen engine/wiring in it. I was able to pick up a new cluster from the junk yard for about $20. if you are after the "cooler" 145mph (or just white) gauges, the VE gauges will bolt up and work fine in any 3rd gen. likewise for the gxe's black gauges.
I haven't heard of anyone doing the MC, either, but I do not see why it wouldn't work, amusing it would bolt up. but just because I haven't heard of it, doesn't mean it's never been done.
never heard of anyone using a 4th gen cluster in a 3rd gen, except a rare case where they had a 4th gen engine/wiring in it. I was able to pick up a new cluster from the junk yard for about $20. if you are after the "cooler" 145mph (or just white) gauges, the VE gauges will bolt up and work fine in any 3rd gen. likewise for the gxe's black gauges.
I haven't heard of anyone doing the MC, either, but I do not see why it wouldn't work, amusing it would bolt up. but just because I haven't heard of it, doesn't mean it's never been done.
Thanks, I am most likely going to the junk yard to pick up the new cluster (145mph) but was thinking if the fourth gen worked that would be nice. As far as the MC I need to research this to see if its worth it to try. Once I do the larger brake system.
Thanks, I am most likely going to the junk yard to pick up the new cluster (145mph) but was thinking if the fourth gen worked that would be nice. As far as the MC I need to research this to see if its worth it to try. Once I do the larger brake system.
the 4th gen cluster sucks compared to the 3rd gens.
leave your MC alone unless you are getting advice from someone with a degree relating to break engineering
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Hello all! I have a 94 Maxima and I have have replaced almost everything on the front of the engine (all the belts; camshaft oil seals; water pump; thermostat; etc.). However, while replacing the camshaft oil seals, the right camshaft sprocket has become misaligned. I can't remember exactly how it happened or how to fix it, as it's been about 2 weeks since I last worked on the car (I've been out-of-town). All I remember is that while trying to retighten the sprocket, it ended up "jumping" and I tried to get it back to it's position by rotating it a few more times by "jumping it" if that makes sense. Needless to say this didn't work very well. In the end the sprocket mark is out-of-alignment with the rear timing belt cover mark by quite a bit (the rear cover mark is about at 0 degrees and the sprocket mark is about at 270 degrees). If I remember correctly, I only jumped the sprocket a few times, and now I'm trying to jump it back and the alignment mark doesn't seem to be moving much at all. I'm not exactly sure what happened. But in the end the sprocket is out of alignment quite a bit (about 90 degrees) with where it needs to be and I have no idea how to get it back. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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fast response too 
Linear Mode
