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I've pretty much decided that I want an oval shaped muffler as opposed to a round one....they are just too high profile and according to logic noisy. Magnaflow says all it's mufflers are street legal except magnapacks.
I've been searching Summit and browsing youtube and to me nothing seems to sound better than a 14805/14807 (well okay some other magnaflows do). I know some of you will probably think its just another Magnaflow stainless muffler with some expensive freaking tips on it but I really can't stand a boring pipe or lame single walled tips and would rather dual Magnaflow stainless ones than bargain bin mystery metal ones.
I don't really see any way I can go wrong with this muffler, it sounds great on both of them and it would sound good on the other car I found it on (99 Altima) if the guy had a better video camera.
Anyone else think I'm making the right choice?
edit: hahaha I found one used for $60! on ebay...seller seems reputable and the pics do it justice....we'll see if the price is still low in 5 days.
Last edited by 3g94MaxGXE; 06-14-2008 at 02:29 PM.
I've pretty much decided that I want an oval shaped muffler as opposed to a round one....they are just too high profile and according to logic noisy. Magnaflow says all it's mufflers are street legal except magnapacks.
I've been searching Summit and browsing youtube and to me nothing seems to sound better than a 14805/14807 (well okay some other magnaflows do). I know some of you will probably think its just another Magnaflow stainless muffler with some expensive freaking tips on it but I really can't stand a boring pipe or lame single walled tips and would rather dual Magnaflow stainless ones than bargain bin mystery metal ones.
I don't really see any way I can go wrong with this muffler, it sounds great on both of them and it would sound good on the other car I found it on (99 Altima) if the guy had a better video camera.
Anyone else think I'm making the right choice?
edit: hahaha I found one used for $60! on ebay...seller seems reputable and the pics do it justice....we'll see if the price is still low in 5 days.
I wouldnt base any decision for sound on a youtube(or any) video. the audio quality cuts out alot of true sound. also, basing an opinion on another car is useless, because they do NOT sound the same, regardless of having the same engine. for examples, a v6 accord will not sound the same as a maxima, and a vq35 powered 350z will not sound the same as a vq35 powered maxima.
but there are plenty of people who have magnaflow, and are happy with the reuslts.
Oh I understand the quality of youtube sound. I honestly can't even stand 128kbps music in the same way though I can tell to a degree whats missing in a decent youtube vid. I also understand that different displacements, engine materials, compression ratios, etc have effect on the exhaust note. However I think that when you can find a decent sample of cars with it that sound good and you take a car which does have a good sounding engine you can only get positive results. After all a positive plus a positive can't equal a negative.
I just used the search function to no avail. I need control arm bushings for front suspension for a 94 GXE. I found some older posts 'noltec' about it but nothing current. Anything domestic? I found a front bushing, but the back seems to be non-existant.
Thanks.
Noltec sold the rights to their line in the US to some one else.
they were also a urethane bushing.
you can buy a kit made by energy suspension for a 4th gen and modify the rear bushing to fit.
I do have complete control arms with new bushings and ball joints available as well.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I have another question for you guys. In an effort to solve my "No-Tail Lights problem", I want to identify a componet under the dash. I believe that it is part of the anti-theft system. It is a small black box, roughly the size of a deck of cards. A big multi-wire plug down the length, 3 jacks on the end to plug wires in. The bottom has a "directory" of the wire assignments that include doors, lights, trunk, horn, siren, and so on. There are many wires cut off of this module. On the end where the 3 small jacks are (a red, a white, and a blue), I noticed that 1 conductor from the red jack is pulled out of the male connector. It plugs into a port labled L.E.D.
With the car and light switch on, I touched the wire to the end of the connector with it plugged in to the module to see if it would effect my tails, but of course, no such luck.
The multi-wire plug has a white wire (labled as lights or parking lights) that leaves the module and goes through an in-line type fuse holder. The 5 amp'er in it is good. I don't think I have any power going to this thing at all. I'm just not sure what the thing does, if it is even needed, or how the lack of it may be effecting my problems. Any input on this would be very helpful.
I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
I have a 2000 maxima GLE and my passeger door window buttons do not work. I can open them from the driver door controls but that is it. Does anyone have any ideas?
I have a 2000 maxima GLE and my passeger door window buttons do not work. I can open them from the driver door controls but that is it. Does anyone have any ideas?
First of all there is a 5th gen sections you might want to check out. Otherwise it sounds like the switch may just be bad. If it is like the 3rd gen the switch must be plugged in to complete the circuit for the window to work.
I replaced the ECTS on my 91 VG and when I took the old one out, there was some putty like stuff on the threads. Is there any special sealer I should be using? I used teflon tape on the threads of the new one. Bad?
I have another question for you guys. In an effort to solve my "No-Tail Lights problem", I want to identify a componet under the dash. I believe that it is part of the anti-theft system. It is a small black box, roughly the size of a deck of cards. A big multi-wire plug down the length, 3 jacks on the end to plug wires in. The bottom has a "directory" of the wire assignments that include doors, lights, trunk, horn, siren, and so on. There are many wires cut off of this module. On the end where the 3 small jacks are (a red, a white, and a blue), I noticed that 1 conductor from the red jack is pulled out of the male connector. It plugs into a port labled L.E.D.
With the car and light switch on, I touched the wire to the end of the connector with it plugged in to the module to see if it would effect my tails, but of course, no such luck.
The multi-wire plug has a white wire (labled as lights or parking lights) that leaves the module and goes through an in-line type fuse holder. The 5 amp'er in it is good. I don't think I have any power going to this thing at all. I'm just not sure what the thing does, if it is even needed, or how the lack of it may be effecting my problems. Any input on this would be very helpful.
Thanks for your time and valued info.
Luny
look behind that for a white box, which is the timer control module. I had that fry, causing the fuse for my lights to pop almost instantly. picked up a "new" one at the junk yard for about a dollar.
I replaced the ECTS on my 91 VG and when I took the old one out, there was some putty like stuff on the threads. Is there any special sealer I should be using? I used teflon tape on the threads of the new one. Bad?
it can be. most CTS come with some sealant already on the threads when new (it's usually orange in color) that will seal it in.
otherwise do not use any sealant on the threads. some sensors use the threads as a ground so the teflon tape will act as an insulator.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
ok, so i've been seeing these BMW E36 headlights looking extremely sexy on 3rd gens. How difficult is this conversion? I have limited welding and metal shaping experience, so if it were basically just a matter of moving the mounts to the right places and wiring it up i think i could manage. Anyone got some input?
Simply put, there is a strange ticking that is coming from the car while I am driving it. I had a noisy spot weld that was loose on the Y-pipe and got that taken care of. Now I have another noise that I had not heard while I was listening to the obnoxious rattle of the spot weld. I believe that it might have something to do with the brakes or something with the wheel. Anyone have any ideas?
__________________
Black 93 Maxima SE (formerly Craig Brace's). A new beginning with lots of fixing. Holding on at 192,000.
Grampy's '92 GXE...only the finest!
...I want her back...
Simply put, there is a strange ticking that is coming from the car while I am driving it. I had a noisy spot weld that was loose on the Y-pipe and got that taken care of. Now I have another noise that I had not heard while I was listening to the obnoxious rattle of the spot weld. I believe that it might have something to do with the brakes or something with the wheel. Anyone have any ideas?
could be.
could also be wheel bearings, manifold stud leak(only heard when stressing the engine), tires, something caught in the wheel, etc.
i have a major question and i need help i just replaced the master cylinder and it worked fine for about 500 miles then i start losing fluid but for some reason cant find a leak took it too a mechanic they couldn't find the leak themselves (i also got the brakes fixed for free which is still kinda strange) after leaving it in a garage for 5 days no leak was found i am know paranoid as hell someone help me and tell me where brake fluid can leak where it would be unidentifiable
Hey guys i have a 1990 max with 396,000 miles. A few problems i'm having, at low speeds lack of power. And when on the highway with cruise set to 70, she constantly kicks out of overdrive to regain her speed. It can't keeps it's speed in od for long for some reason. So far just changed exhaust manifold gaskets, fixed vaccum leaks, changed plug wires. However, that didn't changed much.
Now problem has gotton worse, every time i start off from dead stop she backfires through intake (muffled back fire not loud) a few times and misfires until i gain a little speed. The only way to avoid this is to floor the pedal. Also EVERY time i get on a steep hill it will automatically lose power instantly. My driveway is very steep and it won't make it in reverse and barley in drive. The misfiring and backfiring through the intake gets really bad on my driveway.
I'm thinking injectors because when i pull 3 of the spark plug wires, the engine idle is not effected at all.
Hey guys i have a 1990 max with 396,000 miles. A few problems i'm having, at low speeds lack of power. And when on the highway with cruise set to 70, she constantly kicks out of overdrive to regain her speed. It can't keeps it's speed in od for long for some reason. So far just changed exhaust manifold gaskets, fixed vaccum leaks, changed plug wires. However, that didn't changed much.
Now problem has gotton worse, every time i start off from dead stop she backfires through intake (muffled back fire not loud) a few times and misfires until i gain a little speed. The only way to avoid this is to floor the pedal. Also EVERY time i get on a steep hill it will automatically lose power instantly. My driveway is very steep and it won't make it in reverse and barley in drive. The misfiring and backfiring through the intake gets really bad on my driveway.
I'm thinking injectors because when i pull 3 of the spark plug wires, the engine idle is not effected at all.
hoooooly **** batman!!!! almost 400k? can we have a pic of your odometer? put it in the Great 3rd Gen Picture Thread.
anyhow... at your engine's age... definitely check the ohms on the injectors, check spark plugs for fuel condensation as a result of stuck-open injectors, check compression too just to see if your engine is even worth putting new injectors into (if not, get a fresher motor for $120 and put the $300 worth of injectors into that). also pull codes to see if anything else has been electronically diagnosed as 'weird' by the ECU. at almost 400k miles you have a lotttt of stuff to check, because a lottttt of things could have failed or fallen out of spec with that many miles. also maybe see if the FSM lists any test on the ignition coil and verify your ignition timing.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Search function, I know but I get nothing my bad sorry guys.
I took the max out on the highway yesterday and I was pushing it a little just to see what it was capable of and now when I shut the car off as I walk away there's a distinct smell of gas, did I blow a gasket or something any ideas? I'm worried this is my only vehicle right now. I've replaced just about everything I can without pulling the engine. I don't have access to the tools requred for all that. but anyway it's a '90 vg30e 5spd and the odometer just reached 200,000 miles I have very little knowledge of what has been replaced besides something written in white-out on the dist. cap cover "T-Belt Tune 140,000" which I assume means they had it replaced at that time (hopefully anyway)
if anyone has a suggestion as to what I should do next let me know because I can't to blow the engine I'm really struggling financially and this car has to last, anyway here's a list of what I've done so far...
new power steering/water pump, alternator belts, new pcv valve
new alternator, dist. cap, plug wires, ngk dub platinum plugs, new control
arms, new rotors, calipers, pads. swapped the suspension and exhaust from my '94.
Thers is a ticking sound developing mainly between rpm's 2500-3500 but seems to quiet down after that it sounds like a rod or bad rod bearing it sometimes sounds like a lifter or valve I'm not sure that's just what people tell me. My '94 ve30de 5spd developed the same sound afte. I've never rebuilt or pulled an engine but I know if I had access to the right tools and a shop I am capable. The trans has a slow leak and I have to refill the synthetic when I remember so it's probably damaged from running low at times idk, is there something I can do to tune it up without puling the engine? I think this engine is about to go and I can't afford that right now. I could really some feedback on this!
Search function, I know but I get nothing my bad sorry guys.
I took the max out on the highway yesterday and I was pushing it a little just to see what it was capable of and now when I shut the car off as I walk away there's a distinct smell of gas, did I blow a gasket or something any ideas? I'm worried this is my only vehicle right now. I've replaced just about everything I can without pulling the engine. I don't have access to the tools requred for all that. but anyway it's a '90 vg30e 5spd and the odometer just reached 200,000 miles I have very little knowledge of what has been replaced besides something written in white-out on the dist. cap cover "T-Belt Tune 140,000" which I assume means they had it replaced at that time (hopefully anyway)
if anyone has a suggestion as to what I should do next let me know because I can't to blow the engine I'm really struggling financially and this car has to last, anyway here's a list of what I've done so far...
new power steering/water pump, alternator belts, new pcv valve
new alternator, dist. cap, plug wires, ngk dub platinum plugs, new control
arms, new rotors, calipers, pads. swapped the suspension and exhaust from my '94.
Thers is a ticking sound developing mainly between rpm's 2500-3500 but seems to quiet down after that it sounds like a rod or bad rod bearing it sometimes sounds like a lifter or valve I'm not sure that's just what people tell me. My '94 ve30de 5spd developed the same sound afte. I've never rebuilt or pulled an engine but I know if I had access to the right tools and a shop I am capable. The trans has a slow leak and I have to refill the synthetic when I remember so it's probably damaged from running low at times idk, is there something I can do to tune it up without puling the engine? I think this engine is about to go and I can't afford that right now. I could really some feedback on this!
it is time for a new timing belt. that way you won't kill your motor. can be done for $125 including front main, cam seals, wpump, belt, tensioner, other belts, and a can of your favorite beer. additional beers cost extra.
as for the fuel smell, check the rubber line that runs over top of the rear suspension alongside the main fillerneck for the gas tank (overflow line) for tears, and also the rubber lines on either end of the fuel rail (circled in red):
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Poking around the driver-side of the engine bay ('92 VG), I found this unattached hose. One end plugs into a fitting attached to what looks like a tank down low. Did the other end come loose from something or is it just a breather hose?
I've highlighted the hose in these two pics from different angles:
Poking around the driver-side of the engine bay ('92 VG), I found this unattached hose. One end plugs into a fitting attached to what looks like a tank down low. Did the other end come loose from something or is it just a breather hose?
I've highlighted the hose in these two pics from different angles:
hoooooly **** batman!!!! almost 400k? can we have a pic of your odometer? put it in the Great 3rd Gen Picture Thread.
anyhow... at your engine's age... definitely check the ohms on the injectors, check spark plugs for fuel condensation as a result of stuck-open injectors, check compression too just to see if your engine is even worth putting new injectors into (if not, get a fresher motor for $120 and put the $300 worth of injectors into that). also pull codes to see if anything else has been electronically diagnosed as 'weird' by the ECU. at almost 400k miles you have a lotttt of stuff to check, because a lottttt of things could have failed or fallen out of spec with that many miles. also maybe see if the FSM lists any test on the ignition coil and verify your ignition timing.
well the po has been driving it everyday before i bought it, i've gone through the engine and its in great shape, doesn't burn ANY oil and has good power in the higher rpms. It's just hills that cause it to have like no power. I already picked up some injectors from the junkyard, off of a 92 max with only 110,000 miles and they are very clean, if only i could get them out of the fuel rail.
well the po has been driving it everyday before i bought it, i've gone through the engine and its in great shape, doesn't burn ANY oil and has good power in the higher rpms. It's just hills that cause it to have like no power. I already picked up some injectors from the junkyard, off of a 92 max with only 110,000 miles and they are very clean, if only i could get them out of the fuel rail.
clean is one thing... you have to make sure the pins have 10-14 ohms.. nothing outside that range. and the closer to each other the better. a 29ohm injector won't work... like, at all. so the injectors you bought MAY be crap... maybe not.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Hey im new, im looking into maximas more now because I am going to buy one, it is a 1994 thats about all I know and its white. I was wondering How big of rims could I fit in there with out it looking stupid. like maybe 17's or 18's i have no idea, and the other thing I was wondering about is does anyone know how much horse power would be stock? Thanks all help appreciated.
it is time for a new timing belt. that way you won't kill your motor. can be done for $125 including front main, cam seals, wpump, belt, tensioner, other belts, and a can of your favorite beer. additional beers cost extra.
as for the fuel smell, check the rubber line that runs over top of the rear suspension alongside the main fillerneck for the gas tank (overflow line) for tears, and also the rubber lines on either end of the fuel rail (circled in red):
So if I change the timing belt the rod will stop knocking? I'll check out those fuel lines, but this pic has me wondering about those lifters do they need preventative maintenence should i pull the valve cover and torque them?
clean is one thing... you have to make sure the pins have 10-14 ohms.. nothing outside that range. and the closer to each other the better. a 29ohm injector won't work... like, at all. so the injectors you bought MAY be crap... maybe not.
I know i need an ohm meter, but how do i check this?
Hey im new, im looking into maximas more now because I am going to buy one, it is a 1994 thats about all I know and its white. I was wondering How big of rims could I fit in there with out it looking stupid. like maybe 17's or 18's i have no idea, and the other thing I was wondering about is does anyone know how much horse power would be stock? Thanks all help appreciated.
160 hp for the vg30e sohc and 190 hp for the ve30de dohc depending on which engine the car has
could be.
could also be wheel bearings, manifold stud leak(only heard when stressing the engine), tires, something caught in the wheel, etc.
It is a fairly faint, but quite noticeable noise. I hear it when I am cruising at low speeds (45 and lower). Anything faster, and there is too much wind noise to hear it. Do you think that it could be a manifold stud leak in that case or would it be a little more noticeable when accelerating?
__________________
Black 93 Maxima SE (formerly Craig Brace's). A new beginning with lots of fixing. Holding on at 192,000.
Grampy's '92 GXE...only the finest!
...I want her back...
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
So if I change the timing belt the rod will stop knocking? I'll check out those fuel lines, but this pic has me wondering about those lifters do they need preventative maintenence should i pull the valve cover and torque them?
no, changing the timing belt will not fix a knock... but even if your engine were painted pink and made llama noises, the belt has to be changed every 60k regardless. ticking can be lifters, can be rod knock (but rod knock will sound a little bit heftier than ticking lifters... well, tick vs knock). kinda like how drinking water will not cure diabetes.... but without water, you'll still die. so drink up, and worry about the diabetes when you have time.
as for how to do lifters, the lifters for themselves just sit on or in the rockers or cam lobes, depending on the design (have done them on a probe, not on a maxima). anyhow they somtimes collapse and don't come back up, or sometimes lose pressure and ooze out and become too springy. you want FIRM but puffed. you have to remove them to find out their condition... but if they are springy, put them in some FRESH motor oil, same type as what's in your car normally, on their sides, and let them soak up the oil and rejuvinate theirselves. if they are hard-core collapsed, you MAY be able to soak them, but odds are that if it's collapsed, then you need a new one. then you put them back in place and torque the rocker shafts back down and all that good stuff. the valvetrain on a VG looks scarier than the valvetrain on the probe tho.... more stuff, more bolts, more layers. more PITA to get to as well...
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 06-17-2008 at 12:11 PM.
WELL THEN WHAT ABOUT THE Z32 BRAKES. THEY ARE 4 PISTON CALIPERS, WHICH IN TURN WOULD BE A BIG BRAKE UPGRADE FOR THE THIRD GEN MAXIMA. JUST WANTING TO KNOW IF IT BOLTS RIGHT UP? PLUS....I HAVE 2 MAXIMAS, A 90 SE AND A 89 SE. FROM WHAT I CAN TELL EVERYTHING IS THE EXACT SAME. MY 90 IS A RUST BUCKET, SO I PURCHASED THE 89 IN TEXAS. AND IS THE WARPSPEED DOWNPIPE A GOOD UPGRADE, AND WHICH XHAUST SYSTEMS DOES IT CONNECT TO?
THANKS
noob question
im trying to decide on my air intake cai hai stock so ive decided to go custom yet from wat i read theres seems too be a big problem with the battery placement and the VG's intake my idea was remove the battery from the front end and placing it in the trunk freeing up some space for a custom intake design
Has anyone ever done this with a 93 gxe?
noob question
im trying to decide on my air intake cai hai stock so ive decided to go custom yet from wat i read theres seems too be a big problem with the battery placement and the VG's intake my idea was remove the battery from the front end and placing it in the trunk freeing up some space for a custom intake design
Has anyone ever done this with a 93 gxe?
hehe, people do it all the time on VG turbos! quite a "custom" intake design if I do say so.
i think a person or two may have done this, but the benefit is strictly for novelty... it's not going to add enough extra power to counteract the added weight of longer big-thick battery cables to the trunk tho. be a pioneer and just swap the locations of the battery and the intake as they are normally... battery BEHIND intake... then give us a writeup and we'll love you forever. well, until the world ends in 2012 anyhow.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
WELL THEN WHAT ABOUT THE Z32 BRAKES. THEY ARE 4 PISTON CALIPERS, WHICH IN TURN WOULD BE A BIG BRAKE UPGRADE FOR THE THIRD GEN MAXIMA. JUST WANTING TO KNOW IF IT BOLTS RIGHT UP? PLUS....I HAVE 2 MAXIMAS, A 90 SE AND A 89 SE. FROM WHAT I CAN TELL EVERYTHING IS THE EXACT SAME. MY 90 IS A RUST BUCKET, SO I PURCHASED THE 89 IN TEXAS. AND IS THE WARPSPEED DOWNPIPE A GOOD UPGRADE, AND WHICH XHAUST SYSTEMS DOES IT CONNECT TO?
THANKS
1. they bolt up, but rotor size is off. you need to turn down the maxima's(?) rotor by 3mm from the diameter IIRC, or maybe it's the Z32 rotor that has to be turned down by 3mm. I forget which it is.
2. the only difference is in the o2 sensor
3. it's a y-pipe not a down pipe and connects to the front of the converter
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
well my next project is clean out the tb and maf and chop off the resonator and hopefully get those spacers everyone here seems too love along with a tb bypass so since im already hackin **** up it seems like a battery relocation would be a better mod then an ebay cai
but it would add power and for all we know it could be air temp or that im clearin up some turbulence but powers there so is there anyway of expanding or lengthining the air box without turning it into swiss cheese
well my next project is clean out the tb and maf and chop off the resonator and hopefully get those spacers everyone here seems too love along with a tb bypass so since im already hackin **** up it seems like a battery relocation would be a better mod then an ebay cai
but it would add power and for all we know it could be air temp or that im clearin up some turbulence but powers there so is there anyway of expanding or lengthining the air box without turning it into swiss cheese
well, my main issue with the stock-positioned HAI is that the air is blocked by the battery.. so having it nearer to the headlight would, in my estimate, be better. i was just going to figure out a way to put the battery behind the intake, where the intake normally sits. as far as expanding and lengthening.... i figured you were gonna use a cone filter?
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
THANKS FOR THE QUICK ANSWERS.....IVE BEEN A MAX FAN SINCE I WAS 16. I FINALLY GOT ONE OF MY OWN WHEN I TURNED 22 AND NOW I JUST GOT ANOTHER ONE. I HAVE BIG PLANS AND IVE BEEN READING THIS FORUM FOREVER. IM GOIN TURBO....HOW MANY PEOPLE HAVE ACTUALLY DONE IT, I HAVE NO IDEA. BUT EVERYONE WHERE I LIVE DRIVE G6'S AND COBALTS. NOT THAT I CANT ALREADY TAKE ONE BUT ITLL BE FUN SMOKING EVERYBODY IN A 4 DOOR SEDAN.
Linear Mode
