3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.
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Hi.
I haven't had the time to strip it totally open but thought I would ask here if someone know maybe. I have a knocking sound coming from the distributor, almost sound like a bearing going bad. I did quickly remove the distributor cap and the rotor and cap looks fine. What could be the problem? I'm fairly new to the maxima mechanicals. Any thoughts would help.
Thanks
sounds like you need to replace your timing belt and timing belt tensioner.
Odds are that your factory amps were already bypassed. Check out the colors wired into the clarion harness and match them to what you see at the speakers in the back.
You should be able to get a manual for the clarion at their site.
The headunit I have is a Pioneer, the one that was in was the factory stereo, and it was not originally Bose equipped. The amp was still hooked up. I will just have to trace the wires from the dash back. They appear to be different colors, but I am colorblind, lol. It sucks when it comes to wiring thats for sure
The blower fan (Heat and A/C) is no longer working on the slower speed settings. It does however work on the highest setting.
I've been informed that I need to replace the Heater A/C blower fan RESISTOR. Anything else while I replace this?
Is it an easy repair, and where is it located on an 89 Maxima?
Any HELP is always welcomed and very much appreciated, thank you in advance.
(Nothing found for this subject using a Google search for Maxima heater a/c resistor for this forum.)
The blower fan (Heat and A/C) is no longer working on the slower speed settings. It does however work on the highest setting.
I've been informed that I need to replace the Heater A/C blower fan RESISTOR. Anything else while I replace this?
Is it an easy repair, and where is it located on an 89 Maxima?
Any HELP is always welcomed and very much appreciated, thank you in advance.
(Nothing found for this subject using a Google search for Maxima heater a/c resistor for this forum.)
from what i read, the repair itself is easy. getting to the part(behind the glovebox btw) more difficult...
hey i drive an automatic 1990 gxe with all the options, and my power windows go down but not up from the driver's side, so i have to lean to the door's window to make it go back up. Do i just need to go to a scrapyard and get a new driver's power window panel?
also my trunk button and keyless entry system are unresponsive. any ideas?
yup, i'm a noob...
what do you mean you have to lean? Like pushing against the inner lining of the door? If so, I would highly suspect that the rubbers for your window track are hardened. You can do two things:
spray silicone based lubricant onto the tracks and see if it helps
Buy new window tracks.
Trunk button unresponsiveness may be due to electrical problem, could be fuse, the wires leading to the mechanisms..etc
keyless unresponsiveness may be due to falty control pads, loose/rotten wires, control box is damaged.
hey i drive an automatic 1990 gxe with all the options, and my power windows go down but not up from the driver's side, so i have to lean to the door's window to make it go back up. Do i just need to go to a scrapyard and get a new driver's power window panel?
also my trunk button and keyless entry system are unresponsive. any ideas? yup, i'm a noob...
Sounds like you might very well need a new "Master Switch"! Fits into the arm rest on the drivers side door. You can find one on Ebay, and it's a pretty easy replacement (having done it myself).
Other problem sounds like it could be the relay in the trunk that controls these two items. Did you check the battery on your fob? Key less enter could be the touch panel on the outside of the car, real pain in the butt to change out, and if you do it may very well not be the same code, another problem...
If your going to mess with the master switch you might want to add the auto feature to it as well, here's a link to a site with some how to do it's! http://www.geocities.com/craigbrace/
There is also info here on the wireless wire codes!
Last edited by SparrowHawk; 12-15-2007 at 04:33 PM.
Reason: Added link.
what do you mean you have to lean? Like pushing against the inner lining of the door? If so, I would highly suspect that the rubbers for your window track are hardened. You can do two things:
spray silicone based lubricant onto the tracks and see if it helps
Buy new window tracks.
Trunk button unresponsiveness may be due to electrical problem, could be fuse, the wires leading to the mechanisms..etc
keyless unresponsiveness may be due to falty control pads, loose/rotten wires, control box is damaged.
no no, i have to push the button on the door of the window itself to make it go up. they go up and down just fine...
as for the trunk, i did find that the wires coming from the car and attaching to the trunk arm had split apart completely, so i hooked them back up so now my trunk light works but the trunk button is still not working.
What is this. I have had my transmission pulled and the front seal and Torque Converter were replaced. It went in for a transmission leak that I saw in this picture. It cost a world of money to be replaced, but something is still coming out of here, and i believe it is transmission fluid. I really want to know why it is coming out of here. Transmissions leaks aren't good or cheap, and after the price I paid, I want this to stop. Any chance it could be normal? I wiped it off and it came back...
What is this. I have had my transmission pulled and the front seal and Torque Converter were replaced. It went in for a transmission leak that I saw in this picture. It cost a world of money to be replaced, but something is still coming out of here, and i believe it is transmission fluid. I really want to know why it is coming out of here. Transmissions leaks aren't good or cheap, and after the price I paid, I want this to stop. Any chance it could be normal? I wiped it off and it came back...
Is it pinkish in color?(sorry cant see in the pic,too small)
If it is,then yes it is transmission fluid,if it's light brown/dark brown,then it's most likely engine oil coming from the rear main seal..
I do believe that it was brownish, I suppose that it may be oil. I hate to sound like a noob, but I am, so I will. Is the rear main seal one specific piece, or can there be a rear main seal for both tranny and engine. It is brown, so tht must be oil it says that these were replaced (oil pressure switch, and rear main seal, could some just be left over in tht area.) Idk if u could tell from the picture but trans is on the right and exhaust is on left if tht give u a better idea of where the pic is.
I do believe that it was brownish, I suppose that it may be oil. I hate to sound like a noob, but I am, so I will. Is the rear main seal one specific piece, or can there be a rear main seal for both tranny and engine. It is brown, so tht must be oil it says that these were replaced (oil pressure switch, and rear main seal, could some just be left over in tht area.) Idk if u could tell from the picture but trans is on the right and exhaust is on left if tht give u a better idea of where the pic is.
does it return when you wipe it off?
and is it coming from between the engine and tranny?
as for being noobish, just learn
thats the only way anyone can ever stop
Well, I have determined it is oil! Yay! Not really a good thing still, but beats a transmission leak anyday. To be honest, I'm not 100% sure if it is at the connection between engine and trans or not. It may be... Can u tell anything from tht picture, or if I made it bigger. Exhaust is thing on left if tht helps at all.
Well, I have determined it is oil! Yay! Not really a good thing still, but beats a transmission leak anyday. To be honest, I'm not 100% sure if it is at the connection between engine and trans or not. It may be... Can u tell anything from tht picture, or if I made it bigger. Exhaust is thing on left if tht helps at all.
A better pic may help.
don't resize that one, if you got a larger original, just use that.
I do believe that it was brownish, I suppose that it may be oil. I hate to sound like a noob, but I am, so I will. Is the rear main seal one specific piece, or can there be a rear main seal for both tranny and engine. It is brown, so tht must be oil it says that these were replaced (oil pressure switch, and rear main seal, could some just be left over in tht area.) Idk if u could tell from the picture but trans is on the right and exhaust is on left if tht give u a better idea of where the pic is.
Yes,the rear engine seal is a separate part from the trans seal,whoever replaced it may have bungled the job(messed up the seal as they installed it),or they didn't install one at all,i suggest you take the car back and demand they make it right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by benstoked
does it return when you wipe it off?
and is it coming from between the engine and tranny?
as for being noobish, just learn
thats the only way anyone can ever stop
Read his original post..
Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedog964
Well, I have determined it is oil! Yay! Not really a good thing still, but beats a transmission leak anyday. To be honest, I'm not 100% sure if it is at the connection between engine and trans or not. It may be... Can u tell anything from tht picture, or if I made it bigger. Exhaust is thing on left if tht helps at all.
From what i can tell in the picture,it is coming from the rear engine seal..
It is a small leak, very rare anything drips, can I live with this for a while until I have time to take car of it, or could it be something that needs to be fixed immediately
yes you can, but just check the oil regularly. My rear main as been dripping for about 10K miles, and I'm going to get to it soon. Not bad mind you but where I park is getting pretty dark...
The blower fan (Heat and A/C) is no longer working on the slower speed settings. It does however work on the highest setting.
I've been informed that I need to replace the Heater A/C blower fan RESISTOR. Anything else while I replace this?
Is it an easy repair, and where is it located on an 89 Maxima?
Any HELP is always welcomed and very much appreciated, thank you in advance.
(Nothing found for this subject using a Google search for Maxima heater a/c resistor for this forum.)
The Hayes manual for this car is usless when it comes to finding this part.
Other than taking apart everything on the passenger side, is there an easier way to replace this part. Any links or how to do it posts?
The Hayes manual for this car is usless when it comes to finding this part.
Other than taking apart everything on the passenger side, is there an easier way to replace this part. Any links or how to do it posts?
heres one thats been pissing me off for the last week...my idle seems to keep going up....it was at 1500 on and off for a while...i ran obdII and code one code for TPS....i replaced it....after a few days it was back to 700 for a while...all of a sudden it went up to 1800....then 2000...now 2200....wtf? its been 5 days and idn whats wrong. any one help me out here? pm me if you want
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
the codes it gave you are NOT obdII. OBDII is from 96 up (some 95 cars support it as well, even some 94 cars have the connector but not the codes)
the Modis is pulling codes from the ECU much like a consult does http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
I used the older MT2500 myself but it does not tell you OBDII codes (which all start with a "P")
any which way, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere causing the problem.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
hey everyone i'm new to this but i was wondering has anyone did a engine swap from a single to a dual over head in their 89maxima or is there a way to build the single to make run like a dual hooked up?
hey everyone i'm new to this but i was wondering has anyone did a engine swap from a single to a dual over head in their 89maxima or is there a way to build the single to make run like a dual hooked up?
I am going to do this swap in the next couple of weeks. I found a donor car that looks like crap but has a great motor and tranny. From everything I can find out about this swap, it is pretty much a direct swap other than you must also change out the ECU. With that said, that is why I bought a whole car....so I can get the wiring harness and not have to splice wires. I will keep everyone posted.
hey everyone i'm new to this but i was wondering has anyone did a engine swap from a single to a dual over head in their 89maxima or is there a way to build the single to make run like a dual hooked up?
no one on this board has done a sohc to dohc swap,one guy attempted it,but gave up after finding out it was anything but a direct swap..As far as building a sohc run like a dohc?I'm not sure what you are wanting to know here?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike90SE
I am going to do this swap in the next couple of weeks. I found a donor car that looks like crap but has a great motor and tranny. From everything I can find out about this swap, it is pretty much a direct swap other than you must also change out the ECU. With that said, that is why I bought a whole car....so I can get the wiring harness and not have to splice wires. I will keep everyone posted.
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