*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

[buck2100]

Originally Posted by Greeny

Here ya go..

Thanks for the help

[bcbickers]

Hi Everyone!

Great message board! I haven't been around Nissans for a while, so it's good to see such an active and informed community.

Sorry for the lengthy post. I am currently driving my 1998 Mustang Cobra because my mother's car went kaput. So I gave her my Mazdaspeed 6 to drive. I feel like the Cobra's odo is spinning out of control, so I need an inexpensive, reliable daily driver. Plus, I have three kids and cannot fit them in the Cobra nor can my wife drive a manual. Hence the desire for a nice daily. (Ok...sob story over. LOL!!)

I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.

First, the car runs bad. The owner says it needs lifters, but my searches have turned up the VTCs are the actual problem 9 out of 10 times. Here are the symptoms:

-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).

-> take-off from a standstill - Take-off from a standstill is VERY sluggish. But just how sluggish depends on how long the car has been sitting in gear at idle. Just a few seconds, take-off is ok-ish. If I sit for a minute (like at a stoplight), take-off is very, very slow. It's almost like the cylinders are full of fuel (ie. rich), but I don't smell fuel (at least inside the car) nor does the car doesn't buck or complain. She just lumbers on out until 3,000 rpms (see next point).

-> at speed - This is where things get weird. Below about 3,000 rpms, the car is sluggish but moves ok. Once you pass 3,000 rpms, the car smooths out a little and is much more responsive. At WOT when the car hits about 4,000 rpms, she takes off like a rocket! The loud, sewing machine/clicking noises go away and she flies. The motor also becomes silky smooth and pulls HARD all the way to about 6,000 or so when the tranny upshifts.

So, my first question is: based on the info above, is the problem lifters/actuators or the VCTs?


Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.

When driving, the tranny shifts ok from gear to gear with no problems. However, at about 30% throttle, upshifts occur at 3,200 rpms or so. At 50-60% throttle, she'll hold the gear to 4,000 rpms. At WOT, shifts are held until 6,200 rpms or so, with one issue. The upshift is so violent that it yanks the wheel hard to the right. I can't imagine with less than 200 hp, there would be that much torque steer. And it doesn't pull at all when getting to redline. Just at the upshift point.

For the Power/Comfort switch, I'm not sure that it is working at all. The button moves between all three positions just fine, but the P or C light does not come on when switching between the modes. FWIW, I left the switch in the middle during my test drive.

So, my questions here are: is the transaxle ok? Will a fliud and filter change help clean things up a bit? And with the rpms being held so long, is the power/comfort switch broken or malfunctioning?

Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!

[mikekantor]

164K, bad VTCs, 1992? You're not in Houston and looking at this:

http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html

... are you?

I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell

Transmission is probably fine, just needs to be cleaned. Mine was terrible until I cleaned the pan and replaced all the fluid. Power/Comfort probably just needs new bulbs. VTCs arent too hard if you have some experience working on cars. Injectors should be checked, as well as coils, and spark plugs... those things usually solve engine performance issues.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by bcbickers

<snip>

I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.

control arms too are normal

First, the car runs bad. The owner says it needs lifters, but my searches have turned up the VTCs are the actual problem 9 out of 10 times. Here are the symptoms:

-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).

noise is probably VTC.
idle is more than likely a bad injector or 2

-> take-off from a standstill - Take-off from a standstill is VERY sluggish. But just how sluggish depends on how long the car has been sitting in gear at idle. Just a few seconds, take-off is ok-ish. If I sit for a minute (like at a stoplight), take-off is very, very slow. It's almost like the cylinders are full of fuel (ie. rich), but I don't smell fuel (at least inside the car) nor does the car doesn't buck or complain. She just lumbers on out until 3,000 rpms (see next point).

still thinking injectors

-> at speed - This is where things get weird. Below about 3,000 rpms, the car is sluggish but moves ok. Once you pass 3,000 rpms, the car smooths out a little and is much more responsive. At WOT when the car hits about 4,000 rpms, she takes off like a rocket! The loud, sewing machine/clicking noises go away and she flies. The motor also becomes silky smooth and pulls HARD all the way to about 6,000 or so when the tranny upshifts.

Knock sensor

So, my first question is: based on the info above, is the problem lifters/actuators or the VCTs?


Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.

low / old trans fluid and possibly a bad / dirty IAC

When driving, the tranny shifts ok from gear to gear with no problems. However, at about 30% throttle, upshifts occur at 3,200 rpms or so. At 50-60% throttle, she'll hold the gear to 4,000 rpms. At WOT, shifts are held until 6,200 rpms or so, with one issue. The upshift is so violent that it yanks the wheel hard to the right. I can't imagine with less than 200 hp, there would be that much torque steer. And it doesn't pull at all when getting to redline. Just at the upshift point.

it's not torque steer you are feeling it is a bad control arm bushing

For the Power/Comfort switch, I'm not sure that it is working at all. The button moves between all three positions just fine, but the P or C light does not come on when switching between the modes. FWIW, I left the switch in the middle during my test drive.

put it in C and see what RPMs it is shifting at under 25-50% throttle

So, my questions here are: is the transaxle ok? Will a fliud and filter change help clean things up a bit? And with the rpms being held so long, is the power/comfort switch broken or malfunctioning?

Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!

sounds like a lot of maintenance work needs to be done to it, but in the end you should end up with a fun car.
just expect to invest about $500 easy into the car right away to make it safe. then some more to make it drivable

[sanford7575]

Good Afternoon All,

I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?

Thanks in advance for any insight

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by sanford7575

Good Afternoon All,

I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?

Thanks in advance for any insight

Could be the maf, unplug the wiring harness on the maf, start it up and see if the idle smooths out...Word of caution, the engine will not rev over 2500 rpm with the harness disconnected.

Is the throttle body clean, if not clean it with throttle body cleaner spray, not carb cleaner.

[bcbickers]

Originally Posted by mikekantor

164K, bad VTCs, 1992? You're not in Houston and looking at this:

http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html

... are you?

I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell

Why, yes...as a matter of fact. It's actually a nice car. Just needs some TLC in a bad way. It should make a nice daily if I can get her running right.

Originally Posted by mikekantor

Transmission is probably fine, just needs to be cleaned. Mine was terrible until I cleaned the pan and replaced all the fluid. Power/Comfort probably just needs new bulbs. VTCs arent too hard if you have some experience working on cars. Injectors should be checked, as well as coils, and spark plugs... those things usually solve engine performance issues.

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'm putting a list together to see if the car is worth buying. I sure hope so, as I really like these cars.

[mikekantor]

Originally Posted by bcbickers

Why, yes...as a matter of fact. It's actually a nice car. Just needs some TLC in a bad way. It should make a nice daily if I can get her running right.

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'm putting a list together to see if the car is worth buying. I sure hope so, as I really like these cars.

Do it! Do it! Do it!

It would be great to have another local 3rd gen owner on the .org, and these cars deserve to be brought back into good shape.

[stillssan]

Well I've had my Maxima for 9 years now, and she is getting up there in age. 1991 - 195K when the odometer broke. The tranny is only about 5 years old, and the body is still clean. I am wondering about the age old question of converting to a 300zx engine. I've reached a point where I don't want to part with the car, but I want to know what I can pack under the hood. The other option I am wondering about is just changing it over to the DOHC Maxima engine. I'm pretty sure this would be easier (that is if the other is even possible). However, does it still make an extensive conversion i.e. wiring harness, computer, hoses/lines? Just wondering. If these are not options I may just trash the thing. However, I'd hate to do that because it has so much history for my family and I. -Thank you

[lildrew069]

this past summer i got pulled over for tint and had to take it off. when i took the tint off of the tint on the back windshield i guess i did sumthing and now my defroster doesnt work does n e one kno if this is fixable or do i have to replace my windshield? where would i probably go to have this fix

thanks for you help

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by stillssan

Well I've had my Maxima for 9 years now, and she is getting up there in age. 1991 - 195K when the odometer broke. The tranny is only about 5 years old, and the body is still clean. I am wondering about the age old question of converting to a 300zx engine. I've reached a point where I don't want to part with the car, but I want to know what I can pack under the hood. The other option I am wondering about is just changing it over to the DOHC Maxima engine. I'm pretty sure this would be easier (that is if the other is even possible). However, does it still make an extensive conversion i.e. wiring harness, computer, hoses/lines? Just wondering. If these are not options I may just trash the thing. However, I'd hate to do that because it has so much history for my family and I. -Thank you

The dohc 300zx engine will not fit into the maxima engine bay..

SOHC to DOHC swap information--> The swap is complete but I need some ideas....


Interior wiring issues associated with the above swap--> Wiring Issues

[G3Karl]

my coolant temp has dropped alot while driving a few times. Its very cold here in Chicago. I assume my thermostat is sticking open and needs to be replaced. I have the haynes shop manual but they usually leave stuff out. Is the thermostat located on the front of the motor? Any pictures. From what I have read it seems pretty easy. Is there a bleeder screw? I also want to replace a couple of my radiator hoses and flush my cooling system. Can I just pull the large hoses and pull the thermostat, drain the radiator (should drain with lower hose pulled anyway) and replaces the hoses, fill the radiator. How can I fill the engine? I do not want to start it with no fluid in there, especially on the water pump. Is there a fill point on top? Looks like there is one. Thanks everyone.

[G3Karl]

Originally Posted by Greeny

Here ya go..

anyone know where I can get that line going from the pcv to the valve cover? Mine broke and I just rigged some hoses up from autozone but would like to get the correct piece. Thanks.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by lildrew069

this past summer i got pulled over for tint and had to take it off. when i took the tint off of the tint on the back windshield i guess i did something and now my defroster doesn't work does n e one know if this is fixable or do i have to replace my windshield? where would i probably go to have this fix

thanks for you help

when you remove tint you typically destroy the rear defroster lines.
you either need to find a new kit for the defroster (haven't seen one in years), get a little blower one that blows on the window to defrost it.
if you want your defroster back, you probably will need to get the whole glass swapped out at a JY

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by G3Karl

my coolant temp has dropped alot while driving a few times. Its very cold here in Chicago. I assume my thermostat is sticking open and needs to be replaced. I have the haynes shop manual but they usually leave stuff out. Is the thermostat located on the front of the motor? Any pictures. From what I have read it seems pretty easy. Is there a bleeder screw? I also want to replace a couple of my radiator hoses and flush my cooling system. Can I just pull the large hoses and pull the thermostat, drain the radiator (should drain with lower hose pulled anyway) and replaces the hoses, fill the radiator. How can I fill the engine? I do not want to start it with no fluid in there, especially on the water pump. Is there a fill point on top? Looks like there is one. Thanks everyone.

open the radiator cap, start the car, add fluid as needed for the next 30 minutes or so at least.
you should also do this with the front end of the car raised as high off the ground as you can possibly get it. (3 ft)

[G3Karl]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

open the radiator cap, start the car, add fluid as needed for the next 30 minutes or so at least.
you should also do this with the front end of the car raised as high off the ground as you can possibly get it. (3 ft)

if I do that then will the fluid run into the motor/water pump? Or will the thermostat have to open befor the fluid runs into the motor/waterpump? I dont want to run the car w/o water circulating around the water pump.

Thanks.

[lildrew069]

thanks

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by G3Karl

if I do that then will the fluid run into the motor/water pump? Or will the thermostat have to open befor the fluid runs into the motor/waterpump? I dont want to run the car w/o water circulating around the water pump.

Thanks.

doing that will allow the air to get out of the system.
don't worry about water not being around the pump. As long as you can see fluid in the radiator it is in all the NECESSARY places, it is not however likely to be in the heater core. to get it in the heater core you need to bleed the system.

[jayasartu]

okay so i'm needing to replace my heatercore as it's badly ruptured. so i buy the repair manual and it tells me to drain the coolant out of my radiator. i found that drain plug no problem. second it tells me to unscrew the draincock and it shows me a picture of it right behind my alternator. i go underneath the car and i find no such drain plug and screw near the alternator, nor do i find it anywhere else? can someone please tell me where i should look or even better if someone has a picture of where it is? any help would do.. my maxima has been sitting duck for a month since i can't drive it as the heater core is making a whole load of coolant vapour come out my air vents

[CapedCadaver]

Originally Posted by jayasartu

okay so i'm needing to replace my heatercore as it's badly ruptured. so i buy the repair manual and it tells me to drain the coolant out of my radiator. i found that drain plug no problem. second it tells me to unscrew the draincock and it shows me a picture of it right behind my alternator. i go underneath the car and i find no such drain plug and screw near the alternator, nor do i find it anywhere else? can someone please tell me where i should look or even better if someone has a picture of where it is? any help would do.. my maxima has been sitting duck for a month since i can't drive it as the heater core is making a whole load of coolant vapour come out my air vents

unless your radiator is .. well, unique, it should be bottom-center on the engine-side. with a little clear rubber tube sticking down an inch from it. i forget if it was threaded or if you can twist either way while pulling, but either way mine was rather stiff when i had to drain a little bit of coolant to replace my engine temp sender.

[TurboMiles]

I need new fuel injectors for my 90 Max, can anyone recommend a place to get them from? Possibly a place that sells them for less then 375 shipped new. Thanks

3L V6 HJ30

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by TurboMiles

I need new fuel injectors for my 90 Max, can anyone recommend a place to get them from? Possibly a place that sells them for less then 375 shipped new. Thanks

3L V6 HJ30

Sorry dude, but your not going to find anyplace that sells 6 new injectors for these cars for that price.

I do recommend you stay for away from re manufactured injectors, they tend to have a high failure rate. Go with new injectors only.

Best place to buy injectors---> http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/

[BenStoked]

Originally Posted by TurboMiles

I need new fuel injectors for my 90 Max, can anyone recommend a place to get them from? Possibly a place that sells them for less then 375 shipped new. Thanks

3L V6 HJ30

have you ohm tested first? just a remider, I thought i needed a new injector ( corroded injector terminals. ) but i made this thread to show how i fixed the problem.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by TurboMiles

I need new fuel injectors for my 90 Max, can anyone recommend a place to get them from? Possibly a place that sells them for less then 375 shipped new. Thanks

3L V6 HJ30

any place that is selling new ones that cheap is either selling reman/rebuilt/used or is selling Pythons. My experience with rebuilt/reman has been over a 50% failure rate, and the "brand new" pythons had an even higher failure rate right out of the box.
Stick with getting new from a reputable source once you have made sure you need injectors.
FWIW, since you have a VG do all 6 at one time. Saves time/money/headaches later on.

[NJMAX90SE]

I have a questions for all the Gurus in this thread
can i swapp my tranny with a 92 lsd tranny?
i have a 1990 ve maxima

thanks

[NJMAX90SE]

also is there any other parts that i have to replace if i do this swapp?

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by NJMAX90SE

I have a questions for all the Gurus in this thread
can i swapp my tranny with a 92 lsd tranny?
i have a 1990 ve maxima

thanks

you have a 90 SE which has a VG not a VE.
if you are wondering if you can swap in the MANUAL transmission from a 92-94, yes you can with some modifications necessary. a simple search of the stickies should yield the pertinent information.
If you want to swap over an AUTOMATIC trans, then you are S.O.L.

[NJMAX90SE]

Thanks that's what i need to hear
yes i have a VG engine and 5 speed trans

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by NJMAX90SE

I have a questions for all the Gurus in this thread
can i swapp my tranny with a 92 lsd tranny?
i have a 1990 ve maxima

thanks

First: you do not have 90 VE, you probably mean 90 SE..

Are you refering to the automatic trans or manual trans swaps?

The automatic 92 will not work with the vg30e engine, the flywheels are different, and cannot be swapped.The 3rd gen manuals can be swapped into any of the 3rd gens,but is not for someone with less then moderate mechanical skills.

Before you go any further in this venture, please familiarize yourself with the 3rd generation differences, the 92-94 SE's are quite different from the rest of the 3rd generation line..The stickies and search will yield many answers if you are willing to take the time to find them.

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by Greeny

First: you do not have 90 VE, you probably mean 90 SE..

Are you refering to the automatic trans or manual trans swaps?

The automatic 92 will not work with the vg30e engine, the flywheels are different, and cannot be swapped.The 3rd gen manuals can be swapped into any of the 3rd gens,but is not for someone with less then moderate mechanical skills.

Before you go any further in this venture, please familiarize yourself with the 3rd generation differences, the 92-94 SE's are quite different from the rest of the 3rd generation line..The stickies and search will yield many answers if you are willing to take the time to find them.

[Setol One]

To make a long story short someone smashed into my 1994 SE DOHC after I put a **** load of money into it. It was hit dead center in the rear so hard it went over the cement block in the parking spot onto a fence and flattened a tree that was growing on the other side of the fence. Are all my new parts ruined/damaged? Can I swap the parts over to my 1990 SE SOHC? Parts Include Tokico HP Struts, Eibach springs the alternator, axles, exaust, brakes, tranny. I assume I can just disconnect the brake lines dismount the entire strut/tower assembly on the 94 leaving the brake caliper/rotors etc. attached to front and rear struts and swap over to the 90 right? I hope so anyway. I also put a centerforce dual friction stage 1 clutch kit in the 94's transmission will it fit in the 90 also? I customized the exaust by replacing the cat with a stainless resonator and in place of the stock resonator a peice of straight pipe and a performance dual outlet muffler. does anyone know what parts I will be able to use what's going to fit? I really liked my 1994 now my rusty parts car becomes my driver wtf

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by Setol One

To make a long story short someone smashed into my 1994 SE DOHC after I put a **** load of money into it. It was hit dead center in the rear so hard it went over the cement block in the parking spot onto a fence and flattened a tree that was growing on the other side of the fence. Are all my new parts ruined/damaged? Can I swap the parts over to my 1990 SE SOHC? Parts Include Tokico HP Struts, Eibach springs the alternator, axles, exaust, brakes, tranny. I assume I can just disconnect the brake lines dismount the entire strut/tower assembly on the 94 leaving the brake caliper/rotors etc. attached to front and rear struts and swap over to the 90 right? I hope so anyway. I also put a centerforce dual friction stage 1 clutch kit in the 94's transmission will it fit in the 90 also? I customized the exaust by replacing the cat with a stainless resonator and in place of the stock resonator a peice of straight pipe and a performance dual outlet muffler. does anyone know what parts I will be able to use what's going to fit? I really liked my 1994 now my rusty parts car becomes my driver wtf

Suspension and brakes will swap (do brakes still attached to struts) Exhaust from converter and back will swap. Clutch will swap. The axles and alternator are different. IF you want to swap the trans then you will need to swap over the axles and hubs.

Just to clarify for anyone else. the brakes on the rear of a 90 are DIFFERENT than 91 and later. you CAN swap them over as long as all the parts including brackets are swapped over.i

[Uberhass]

For all of you who have spare parts cars... can you tell me how the newer looking grill is attached to the body

(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)

and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)

[Setol One]

Originally Posted by Uberhass

For all of you who have spare parts cars... can you tell me how the newer looking grill is attached to the body

(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)

and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)

They fit the same squeeze the clips together on the back of the grills with a pair of plyers gently and it pops right off same thing.

[Setol One]

Originally Posted by internetautomar

Suspension and brakes will swap (do brakes still attached to struts) Exhaust from converter and back will swap. Clutch will swap. The axles and alternator are different. IF you want to swap the trans then you will need to swap over the axles and hubs.

Just to clarify for anyone else. the brakes on the rear of a 90 are DIFFERENT than 91 and later. you CAN swap them over as long as all the parts including brackets are swapped over.i

Thanks for the feedback! I get the feeling' I have no idea how much work this is going to be. Hopefully you'll be able to answer more of my questions?

[efficacyman]

Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by efficacyman

Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html

when was the timing belt done last and do they have proof?
how is the transmission?
do all windows work?

[Greeny]

Originally Posted by efficacyman

Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html

Check out this sticky---> General Maintenance Reference Links (READ BEFORE ASKING)

Several general issues with these cars are covered in there..

[internetautomar]

Originally Posted by Setol One

Thanks for the feedback! I get the feeling' I have no idea how much work this is going to be. Hopefully you'll be able to answer more of my questions?

it's not that hard to swap the suspension, and since you are already swapping the suspension swapping the trans won't be that much harder as long as it's all done at the same time.

[NJMAX90SE]

i have a manual 1990 max, i made a mistake when i said VE, i have good mechanical skills
now is there other parts that i need from a 1992 max to do this swapp?