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there are a couple of brands that make headers, Pacecetter being one. Avoid them, unless you don't mind hacking them up to make them fit. I don't remember who the other brand is, but I know nothing of their quality.
aside from that, there is warpspeed that makes a y-pipe to fit the original manifolds. if you have to replace it anyway, this is typically the recommended way to go.
If you have broken manifold studs, check your engine mounts before replacing them; if they are bad, you may be replacing your studs again.
Thanks, engine mounts look fine, maybe I can get away with just getting new studs and keeping the stock manifolds, then getting the warpspeed y pipe
Now I have another issue. The previous owner basically melted a huge hole in the top of the coolant overflow reservoir, rendering it useless since it took off almost the whole top half. I took it off and have the hose pointed to where it can just drain onto the street, but I want to buy a new tank. I've looked all over and can only find tanks that go on the passenger side...mine is on the driver's side and I know the other tank won't fit. I'm thinking it's either a difference between the GXE and SE or auto and manual, either way even on ebay I can't find any. Does anybody have any ideas? The universal ones are going to be my last resort.
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1992 GXE l 414,000km on original tranny and original VG30E l Pioneer Premier 12" 3500w subwoofer l 600w amp l JVC H/U l aftermarket fog lights l 2.5" Magnaflow catback exhaust l Momo summer rims l Stock winter rims l Sparco Sprint driver/passenger seat w/drivers 6 point harness l Sparco Volanti steering wheel l Castrol Syntec oil/premium Vpower gas
Future mods- 5spd swap, Z31 turbo w/intercooler
This winters mods- Z31 hood scoop, digital cluster swap, lowering springs
what do you mean, "size?" it is an oem gauge, which means the typical sizes for aftermarket gauge makers won't nessecarily fit. iirc, it was quite a bit smaller than the aftermarket gauges (i believe aftermarket gauges measuer 5", but the hole for the speedo was 4.5"? it was a while ago, so don't use this post as law.)
unless you meant "speed". then the 89-91SE ans all GXEs use 125mph gauges.
we are gonna need alot more details to help you out
the noise is when ever i speed up. my friend and i replaced the manifold gasket about two months ago. when ever the car is at cruise or at a stop light i dont hear this noise
the noise is when ever i speed up. my friend and i replaced the manifold gasket about two months ago. when ever the car is at cruise or at a stop light i dont hear this noise
You gotta be more complete, my friend...
Perhaps you have someone with a mechanical / technical background who can ride along with you and give you some more details to post about your issues?
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MODS: VLSD 5-Speed Swap, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Turbo Manifold Studs, Koni/Eibach Suspension, Suspension Techniques F & R Swaybars w/ Blehmco RSB Links, Unorthodox Racing UDP, Blehmco Grounding Kit, WSP Y-Pipe, Place Racing CAI, Custom STS, Polyurethane Front & Rear Bushings, Q45 Front Brakes (Blehmco S.S. Lines, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads), Courtesy Nissan FSTB, Blehmco RSTB, Blehmco Stage II LTB, NissanWorks TB & IACV Spacers, 9007 Headlight Bulb Conversion, GXE Fog Lamps, Sound System (Infinity, JVC, Polk, MTX), 2k3 SE 17" Wheels w/ 225/50R17 Hankook HR Ventus II Tires - 186K miles (bought 8/03 @ 87K miles)
Other Toy: '96 Corvette LT4 6-Speed, 75K miles (bought 3/09 @ 60K miles), Black on Black, Fassstt!!!! Stock, for now...
so i figured id ask you guys what im doing wrong. got two injectors put em in ran great then started to run like crap....so im like wtf...do some test...ohm out ok. then i pull the plug and it is dripping in gas...and im about to pull the manifold and get the other injector and return them for the second time...am i doing something wrong or what?
OK I am looking at 2 cars one of which will be purchased @ the end of Sept. A 1990 Maxima with a 99 motor. I am not sure of the miles but i am getting all this information as we speak. The asking price is $1850 but i am pretty positive i can get it down to @ least 1500 if I play my cards right. It will serve as a A to B car while i live Here in college but I also like a little speed as well and a little something to do In my spare time In college (Summers ect.). I have moderate expirience with them as well seeing as how A 93 Max was my 1st car. However. There Is another factor to this equasion. The second car I am looking at is a 90 Max with 106k on the car (no engine swap). The asking price for this one is only 800. No brainer right??? WRONG..two things with this car...The current owner broke the key off in the ignition. While trying to get it out, they ruined the housing. Supposedly they do have a replacement for it. Just haven't put it in. The shifting mount was loose so it wouldn't go into gear,and suposedly it will be replaced as well. If all of this dosent happen and they dont replace or fix any of this stuff, would I still be better off going with This or the other? and Either way how much would it be to fix a shifting mount and ignition housing?? Thanks in advance..
OK I am looking at 2 cars one of which will be purchased @ the end of Sept. A 1990 Maxima with a 99 motor. I am not sure of the miles but i am getting all this information as we speak. The asking price is $1850 but i am pretty positive i can get it down to @ least 1500 if I play my cards right. It will serve as a A to B car while i live Here in college but I also like a little speed as well and a little something to do In my spare time In college (Summers ect.). I have moderate expirience with them as well seeing as how A 93 Max was my 1st car. However. There Is another factor to this equasion. The second car I am looking at is a 90 Max with 106k on the car (no engine swap). The asking price for this one is only 800. No brainer right??? WRONG..two things with this car...The current owner broke the key off in the ignition. While trying to get it out, they ruined the housing. Supposedly they do have a replacement for it. Just haven't put it in. The shifting mount was loose so it wouldn't go into gear,and suposedly it will be replaced as well. If all of this dosent happen and they dont replace or fix any of this stuff, would I still be better off going with This or the other? and Either way how much would it be to fix a shifting mount and ignition housing?? Thanks in advance..
99.9% chance BS that the first one has a 99 motor..... see if you can get pics of that car's engine bay to prove it REALLY has a VQ. Because it's not your average backyard mechanic's engine swap.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
99.9% chance BS that the first one has a 99 motor..... see if you can get pics of that car's engine bay to prove it REALLY has a VQ. Because it's not your average backyard mechanic's engine swap.
That what I originally thought and still kinda do..given that there are NO pictures of the engine bay @ all what are your thoughts on the other option
That what I originally thought and still kinda do..given that there are NO pictures of the engine bay @ all what are your thoughts on the other option
shifter mount (i assume you mean the rubber bar that holds the shifter up inside the bracket) is $40 from courtesyparts.com but I dunno what to tell you about the ignition. I guess the bolts that hold it on can be drilled out to allow you to replace it, and then find a locksmith to match the tumblers to the key the car already had.
now i'm not saying there's necessarily anything wrong with the first car, it's just that they are probably lying or misinformed about the engine swap. because the crossmember doesn't even go in the same place on a 90 vs a 99, let alone the engine or tranny mounts, or exhaust.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
__________________
1992 GXE l 414,000km on original tranny and original VG30E l Pioneer Premier 12" 3500w subwoofer l 600w amp l JVC H/U l aftermarket fog lights l 2.5" Magnaflow catback exhaust l Momo summer rims l Stock winter rims l Sparco Sprint driver/passenger seat w/drivers 6 point harness l Sparco Volanti steering wheel l Castrol Syntec oil/premium Vpower gas
Future mods- 5spd swap, Z31 turbo w/intercooler
This winters mods- Z31 hood scoop, digital cluster swap, lowering springs
so i figured id ask you guys what im doing wrong. got two injectors put em in ran great then started to run like crap....so im like wtf...do some test...ohm out ok. then i pull the plug and it is dripping in gas...and im about to pull the manifold and get the other injector and return them for the second time...am i doing something wrong or what?
What kind of injectors are you using, new or remanufactured?
Did you properly lube the o-rings before snapping the new injectors into place? A pinched o-ring can cause you problems.
What do you mean they were dripping in fuel?
__________________
MODS: VLSD 5-Speed Swap, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Turbo Manifold Studs, Koni/Eibach Suspension, Suspension Techniques F & R Swaybars w/ Blehmco RSB Links, Unorthodox Racing UDP, Blehmco Grounding Kit, WSP Y-Pipe, Place Racing CAI, Custom STS, Polyurethane Front & Rear Bushings, Q45 Front Brakes (Blehmco S.S. Lines, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads), Courtesy Nissan FSTB, Blehmco RSTB, Blehmco Stage II LTB, NissanWorks TB & IACV Spacers, 9007 Headlight Bulb Conversion, GXE Fog Lamps, Sound System (Infinity, JVC, Polk, MTX), 2k3 SE 17" Wheels w/ 225/50R17 Hankook HR Ventus II Tires - 186K miles (bought 8/03 @ 87K miles)
Other Toy: '96 Corvette LT4 6-Speed, 75K miles (bought 3/09 @ 60K miles), Black on Black, Fassstt!!!! Stock, for now...
hey, i bought a 92 GXE, and it had no radio, thought nothing of it til i got home and saw the BOSE cover on the speakers, then i thought to my self S*@t!!!!!!! i had a bad experience with replacing bose with a 98 deville i had, but on top of that 1 of the wireing harnesses were cut, the bigger of the 2, not the 6 pin, and the only replacement i found so far was one out of an se, all but 3-4 wires matched up, and i now have power and stuff to the radio, but no sound, any advice?? is it just as simple and running wires from each speaker to the radio itself??
hey, i bought a 92 GXE, and it had no radio, thought nothing of it til i got home and saw the BOSE cover on the speakers, then i thought to my self S*@t!!!!!!! i had a bad experience with replacing bose with a 98 deville i had, but on top of that 1 of the wireing harnesses were cut, the bigger of the 2, not the 6 pin, and the only replacement i found so far was one out of an se, all but 3-4 wires matched up, and i now have power and stuff to the radio, but no sound, any advice?? is it just as simple and running wires from each speaker to the radio itself??
easier: clip the smaller wires on the speaker amps, wire directly into your (aftermarket) speakers, and !WHAM! sound.
ok i was just given a 89 se that my brother had so it has alot of issues (1) i put a new sterio in about 4 months ago since then the seatbelts wont move unless the igition in on . (2)the secrity feature wont work after that also is ther a way to reset it? (3) the sunroof cover fell out ( it got realy wet and worped )where can i get another one
What kind of injectors are you using, new or remanufactured?
Did you properly lube the o-rings before snapping the new injectors into place? A pinched o-ring can cause you problems.
What do you mean they were dripping in fuel?
found out i was tearing the lower o ring guess im not lubing it up enought i have dont it twice now pisses me off cuz i have to remove the manifold each time fml if it does it again im just gonna dip the whole injector into the jelly
My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part number; "transmission must be removed and disassembled for filter replacement". No drain plug, plus the filter is apparently just a screen. Gee, I wonder why these tend to fail.
As such, I doubt the fluid's ever been changed. I've driven it; there's no slippage but shifts are rather harsh with quick acceleration.
My plan is to advise him to get one of these kits, go to get a fluid flush and have them install it after they flush and then replace the filter a couple times in quick succession. Then get a flush/filter every 30k or so.
I'm wondering what you guys thought of this plan and whether he should do something different. I really don't want deferred maintenance to bite him in the *** if I can help it.
My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part number; "transmission must be removed and disassembled for filter replacement". No drain plug, plus the filter is apparently just a screen. Gee, I wonder why these tend to fail.
As such, I doubt the fluid's ever been changed. I've driven it; there's no slippage but shifts are rather harsh with quick acceleration.
My plan is to advise him to get one of these kits, go to get a fluid flush and have them install it after they flush and then replace the filter a couple times in quick succession. Then get a flush/filter every 30k or so.
I'm wondering what you guys thought of this plan and whether he should do something different. I really don't want deferred maintenance to bite him in the *** if I can help it.
Hi, I just recently got a 1990 Maxima (got it real cheap...free)that needed a transmission. I went to pick your part....it was half off day to!!...and found a trans...fluid was good not burnt. There is a drain plug on the trans in front. Instead of getting that kit, I'd just drain the fluid at 4000 miles until the fluid is clean....then at 20,000-25,000 miles.
Is there really a drain plug? I'll have to look into that. I think I still may go with the remote filter though since the stock filter is near impossible to replace and is mesh. This will allow easy replacement of a true paper filter.
My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part number; "transmission must be removed and disassembled for filter replacement". No drain plug, plus the filter is apparently just a screen. Gee, I wonder why these tend to fail.
As such, I doubt the fluid's ever been changed. I've driven it; there's no slippage but shifts are rather harsh with quick acceleration.
My plan is to advise him to get one of these kits, go to get a fluid flush and have them install it after they flush and then replace the filter a couple times in quick succession. Then get a flush/filter every 30k or so.
I'm wondering what you guys thought of this plan and whether he should do something different. I really don't want deferred maintenance to bite him in the *** if I can help it.
that, combined with a trans cooler (the smaller ones from summit would be fine), should make the trans last a little longer.
Is there really a drain plug? I'll have to look into that. I think I still may go with the remote filter though since the stock filter is near impossible to replace and is mesh. This will allow easy replacement of a true paper filter.
Do these cars have factory trans coolers?
kinda-sorta... the ATF has a small pass-thru tank in the bottom of the radiator to transfer heat from the ATF to the coolant. adding an aftermarket trans cooler in front of the a/c condenser is def a good idea tho (block it off w/ cardboard in winter if you live in really cold climate._
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Is there really a drain plug? I'll have to look into that. I think I still may go with the remote filter though since the stock filter is near impossible to replace and is mesh. This will allow easy replacement of a true paper filter.
Do these cars have factory trans coolers?
Hi, The drain plug at the front...it is a 3/8 square... you can use a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove it.The cooler in in the lower tank of the radiator.
The motor does not make any noise at all. The radio works. I listened by the trunk to see if it made any grinding noise...and indication that the motor was on...nothing. Would the fuse interrupt power to the motor? If so, where is the fuse box located. I saw a white plastic box in the vicinity of the antenna, but didn't pry. Any suggestions? Thanks
This drain plug; does it just drain this transfer tank or is it a drain for the trans pan? In either case, how much can I expect to drain? It takes Dex III right?
This drain plug; does it just drain this transfer tank or is it a drain for the trans pan? In either case, how much can I expect to drain? It takes Dex III right?
The drain plug is low in the trans case so it should get most of the fluid out,except for some in the torque conv, there is no drain plug on the torque conv.That's why I drained mine at 3,000 miles until the fluid was clean and not brown and burnt smelling.The refill spec is about 7- 3/4 qts of dex III.
I'm new here and stumbled along this forum looking for an answer to this issue. I have a 1989 maxima and am having a weird idle problem. When in park everything works fine (when I press the gas it revs, rpms increase, all that). But when I put the car in gear the rps drop drastically (down to below 500rpm) no matter what the idle is set at. Now heres the bad part when in gear if i let it roll (just idling) the rpms will slowly increase and its fine but if I have it in drive and i hit the gas from a stop it sputters and wants to stall. Please help.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone