elusivemax93

ok so here it is i juz bought this 1993 nissan maxima se bout alil over 2 weeks ago and the guy who sold it to me told me that it had a jdm motor put into it. now i dont know what happened to the motor prior to the jdm one dropped in but my question is this ok so ive owned a ve before this ve but the other ve was an auto and this one is 5 speed and when i had my auto i noticed that when i would punch it and hit bout 3 to 3.5 k rpms it would kick in my second cams now on this maxima ve it doesnt when i hit those rpms im used to having the vtcs kicking in all i get is the motor juz powering through the whole power band without the second cams kicking in and i dont know why they arent the car is still quick but i wonder if either they didnt hook up the vtc solenoids or if when the heater core messed up and spilled water over the old computer the guy bought the wrong ecu or what im confused and would really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this subject.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

there are no second cams.
you are confusing VTC with Vtech.

elusivemax93

lolz ok but then what do u call dohc which the ve block is dohc = dual over head cam

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

i think i know what your talking about, when im in gear ie; 2nd gear about 20mph 2000 i punch to feel the rush (i like thhe feel) and its not very responsive... but it does it when its REALLY warm sooo try doing it when the engine is fairly cold and check that out. i think it does have something to do with the heat readings

just what i think not wha i


nice max BTW like the color blue

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Dual Over Head Cam = 1 intake cam and 1 exhaust cam per Head.
they are both always in use. they don't turn on or off.

elusivemax93

lolz my bad but still i remember when i had my auto and i would get on it the car would kick after about 3 to 3.5 k and now that i have the 5 speed i dont get that same feeeling i dont know maybe it was juz the auto tricking me but the car is very quick and very fun to have

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

if your knock sensor isn't working you will feel a kick in the pants at higher RPM when the ECU stops retarding the ignition

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

lol holy crap i gotta get my KS checked dang dude didnt know it was like that... but it only happens once and a while (when the engine is really hot)

elusivemax93

so basicly your saying that what im thinking is juz something i might of had experinced from a bad knock senor in my automatic max and that now this one doesnt kick and im expecting it to kick like pull harder isnt what i should expect lolz?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

heat soak affects most VEs like that.

Jon94SE

Since the knock sensor is kind of a PITA to replace my friend had the idea of doing the ol' resistors in the plug idea except we ran a switch via the ECU so I could control it from inside the car. This way when it's cold out and you don't have to worry about pinging you flip the switch and the ECU thinks the knock sensor is working and bumps the timing up. If you get any pinging you flip the switch back off and it'll pull the timing back. Just a suggestion untill you can replace the knock sensor.

Alex_V

VTC= varible timing camshaft. The intake cam has a hydrolic actuated timing gear that varies with RPM. Im not sure if its 2 set points or gradual.

~Alex

elusivemax93

thanx alex thats what i was thinking about the varible timing camshaft as hondas have something similar too. what they call v tech but nissan juz has in our model cars vtc and newer models cvtc

Duckman540i

iTrader: (12)

VTC = Valve Timing Control and it's 2 stages.

elusivemax93

so as i was saying then the car has two points of power am i right or wrong as ive owned one before and noticed it would change power settings when floored and hit a certain rpm band

Jon94SE

Are you just punching it at 3500 or are you downshifting and punching it, because the kickdown with the auto will make it seem more powerfull definatly...But if you're cruising in lets say third and drop it into second with the 5spd you'll get the same feel if not better.

Duckman540i

iTrader: (12)

It's somewhat more variable than that, here is a really good article on the exact variable valve timing that is in the VE-5's

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...ad.php?t=15976

lanedrifters

iTrader: (4)

Here's my .02.. The VTC solenoids are set to turn on below 4600 RPMs with a medium/heavy load (like half or more throttle). The ecu does have other parameters its looking at as well though. The engine temp has to be with a specific range and the vehicle has to be moving if I remember correctly. There is also an upper rpm limit built in but its set @ like 12,000rpms (they used it on the ttz's to keep overlap under control when boosting at low rpms).
I have noticed major low end torque reduction when the power valve isnt operating properly on ve5's. You might want to check it out.. BTW it switches around 3000-3500 depending on load as well..

Alex_V

VTEC on hondas is varible lift cams. They have an extra lobe on the camshaft and after a certian rpm they engage it. They just recently started adding varible timing like VE's have to their lastest version of VTEC

Id vote for your knock sensor being bad. They are at worst 14 years old, and they are known to wear out. Id use Jon94se's method and see if that works. Most people just hardwire the resistor in, but thats kinda risky, unless you run 91/94 all the time.

Plus VTC's are known to still work even when they are clacking, aka on the path to blowing up. So I'd say KS.

~Alex

Phoenix

You may also want to verify that your Variable Induction works. Or that you even have it. It came standard with the VE 5-speed, but since you do not have the original engine, it's worth checking (maybe your VE came from an automatic? Alot of JDMs do.). It doesn't really have anything to do with the KS or the VTCs, but if you're looking for a kick in the pants feeling, it'll help out.

In this thread (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=471429) duckman has a good picture of the power valve (part of the Variable Induction setup) see if you have one and then see if it works.

If you're really concerned about the VTCs or want to know more about them, Josh has an excellent write up here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=462613

Maxmus_X

iTrader: (5)

sorry for being a little ot, but that steVTEC guy is amazing. Just read one of of many articles and wow.

K back to the subject....

elusivemax93

thanx yeah im not sure if the jdm swapped motor was from an auto or not but no when i was in my auto when i had it and it was running lolz i would punch it off the line and once i was hitting bout 3 to 3.5 grand it would kick like the hondas v tec would do for the hondas u know you would hear the motor open up more and scream with more power and you could also feel it. and as for the max i have now i only run 92 nothing less then that but unforunatly the guy that had it before me sad to say uses fram oil filters. once i get the money and time, its time for my 60 to 70 dollar oil change lolz i try my car like a queen fucc the bs you know my car is one thing i take well care of.

Phoenix

60 to 70 dollar oil change? Do you run synthetic? Most people on the board run Castrol GTX with a Napa Gold oil filter or a Toyota Tundra filter (or the smaller corolla filter). You're fine running just about any oil filter with an anti-drainback valve. 4 qts. of GTX and a toyota filter usually runs me right around $10-12. I'm just wondering where your extra $50 is coming from.

elusivemax93

yeah im running synthetic but i also do a few other things with the motor that ive been doing with all my maximas which i see helps it out. mobile 1 synthetic with mobile 1 synthetic blend filter. and other personal things i do.

todamax

iTrader: (6)

Reach around?

Jon94SE

Yeah the resistor thing is kinda risky, just make sure you run good gas all the time and make sure to listen for pinging, or your motor will be kaput

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I bet the JDM engine still has the auto intake manifold on.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

look to the left of your upper intake and see if the power valve is there. The auto upper IM will not have it. If you look in the pic below I have circled the power valve. Mine is polished but yours should be a goldish color.



if it doesnt have the PV it could cause problems with response

Maxmus_X

iTrader: (5)

Mike, Is that powder coated or high temp paint?........

Michael

iTrader: (21)

its real paint . I used the same paint I use to paint cars (PPG BC/CC). Here is a thread I did on it.

elusivemax93

lolz when i said personal things i meant like i do motor flush and oil additive

also nice painting on ur intake pendelum michael

Michael

iTrader: (21)

Thanks...did you see if your had that PV...I am just curious if that is whats causing your problem. I know I have seen a couple of 5spd upper IMs in the classifieds so if yours isnt right you should be able to find one.

elusivemax93

there are two images of the top of the motor where the pv is that u ask about

Michael

iTrader: (21)

ok so the guy did swap the IM over...well that rules that out if its working properly.

elusivemax93

yup yup.but the guy that i bought my car from wasnt the guy that did the motor swap he has a mechanic he went to to have his work done for him. unlike him i actually know how to do alot of work on my maxima to a point things i have had isusses with my past two maximas like both standerd and auto transmissions pulls drive axels and a few other things within my car