3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
no. never done it before and was afraid I'd accidentally erase the ECU (ECM?) memory or that it already has been erased since the battery was replaced just before the plug wires were changed and then it quit running.
any tips before i break that too?
no. never done it before and was afraid I'd accidentally erase the ECU (ECM?) memory or that it already has been erased since the battery was replaced just before the plug wires were changed and then it quit running. any tips before i break that too?
Personally it's hard to give dignostic help over the internet, especially in a case like yours because you have checked a lot of the preliminary stuff. It's getting to the point where we won't be able to help unless we're phyically there. I can speak from experience about a bad coolant temp sensor. I had a combination of a bad CTS or sensor connector that caused my car not to start one day, it crank but wouldn't start. Your problem sounds different but you never know. Another simple check you may want to consider is inspecting the connectors for sensors and switches. Our cars have been known to have bad corroded connections. The last resort is possible the bad ECM which some of us have been known to change. Good luck.
__________________ Out of many, we are one You can tell a lot about a person from their hand shake
I get:
Code 11=Crank Angle Sensor
Code 33=Exhaust Gas Sensor is open
Not sure how the ECU works for Diag Mode III since the car won't run (would the errors be from stored memory when it did run or current errors while trying to start it?)
Would 33 keep a car from starting?
Code 11 seems more likely the culprit to me, but hey what do I know.
Would a faulty crank sensor mess it up enough to make it not start?
I assume if it is the culprit I would need a new distributor too?
I get:
Code 11=Crank Angle Sensor
Code 33=Exhaust Gas Sensor is open
Not sure how the ECU works for Diag Mode III since the car won't run (would the errors be from stored memory when it did run or current errors while trying to start it?)
Would 33 keep a car from starting?
Code 11 seems more likely the culprit to me, but hey what do I know.
Would a faulty crank sensor mess it up enough to make it not start?
I assume if it is the culprit I would need a new distributor too?
Yes a CAS can cause a no start. This is what I'll do in your case
-disconnect the battery
-check, re-check and re-check all connections under the hood. Make sure all connections are clean and corrosion free. Check both sensors and switches, especially the CAS that code 11 is refering to and make sure the o2 sensor is connected and/or clean.
-come back the next day (or a few hours later) and connect the battery. Pull the ECM codes to make sure everything is clear, code 55 meaning all is well. What you're attempting is to have a fresh new start.
-At that point try to start the car and see what happens. More than likely it still will not start or still run rough, but you never know.
-after trying to start the car or after the engine is running rough, pull the ECM codes again.
-if you're still getting code 11 that's definately something to look at, or any new code for that matter.
Bad corroded connections can cause you chase ghost codes or replace items that doesn't need repalcing.
__________________ Out of many, we are one You can tell a lot about a person from their hand shake
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
To be honest I'm not exactly sure if a bad CAS involves changing the distributor, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night
__________________ Out of many, we are one You can tell a lot about a person from their hand shake
I started my car today and the idle was rough and the check engine light was on. Later during the day the problem went away, including the check engine light. Anyone have and similar issues, or know what happened?
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
Hey Laggy how did you check your ECM and where is it located. I know its real hard to find OB1 reader around way.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
well I am kind of new to this I think it's a VE. I have a 91 gxe v6
You have a vg sohc engine...
First,check the wiring/plug harnesses going to the knock sensor and idle air control valve for bad/broken connections/and corrosion[green looking crap]...
You know what I was looking at the check engine light blinking instead of the green and red light on the ECM does that matter? Also do you know of a diagram to locate the knock???? Sorry for all the random ?s just trying to educate myself. Note* engine light was never on and car has been running pretty damn good since I've gotten her. Sometime is does sputter though with no back fire.
You know what I was looking at the check engine light blinking instead of the green and red light on the ECM does that matter? Also do you know of a diagram to locate the knock???? Sorry for all the random ?s just trying to educate myself. Note* engine light was never on and car has been running pretty damn good since I've gotten her. Sometime is does sputter though with no back fire.
*edit*
would it be in the same location as the gen 4?
IIRC,the color of the light is irrevelent..also,my bad k/s never turned my cel on either,but it did store a code..
The k/s sensor is located on the back side of the engine block,next to the oil filter,the harness plug has just one wire going to it iirc..
My 96 Maxima began accelerating poorly the other day. It feels like it has dead cylinder/cylinders because it runs roughly and loses power when it does this. It is somewhat intermittent occurring during acceleration at 1/4 throttle. It goes from smooth powerful acceleration to poor rough running accel and also while pulling a low rpm pull from 2nd or 3rd gear while the motor is under load.
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
My 96 Maxima began accelerating poorly the other day. It feels like it has dead cylinder/cylinders because it runs roughly and loses power when it does this. It is somewhat intermittent occurring during acceleration at 1/4 throttle. It goes from smooth powerful acceleration to poor rough running accel and also while pulling a low rpm pull from 2nd or 3rd gear while the motor is under load.
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
you have a 4th gen, not a 3rd gen....... go ask them. they know more about 4th gens that i even WANT to know.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
Linear Mode
