Need Help with Fuel Injectors
04-28-2006, 06:55 AM
#1
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Need Help with Fuel Injectors
I thought I might have an intake manifold leak but the shop told me it was a faulty fuel injector and while they know which one it is they said they have to take the car apart to pull out the fuel injector to find out which kind it is and then special order it???
I read something around here about green dots and yellow dots? Does anyone know of any write-ups for the VG engine on replacing the fuel injector??
I know from reading the VE write-up basically what to do but anymore info would be helpful from anyone who's done it recently.
I read something around here about green dots and yellow dots? Does anyone know of any write-ups for the VG engine on replacing the fuel injector??
I know from reading the VE write-up basically what to do but anymore info would be helpful from anyone who's done it recently.
04-28-2006, 07:19 AM
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vandalia Ohio
Posts: 93
I have replaced two fuel injectors. I the shop was able to tell which injector it was before the tore the engine apart. The labor to get to the injector was about $250 and the injectors are abour $110 each.
04-28-2006, 07:53 AM
#3
if you're thinking about doing it yourself, then do it. it's not that tough of a job and you can replace it with a used injector and save a few hundred bucks by doing it yourself. costs $12 for the plenum gaskets and used injectors are $6 from my local junkyard just to give you an idea.
04-28-2006, 08:22 AM
#4
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I'm being quoted $450 to get to the injector and I guess for the part as well. It doesn't seem to hard, just take a lot of time.
What do you use to clean the old intake manifold gasket off? Where I can buy new injectors and have them delivered FAST??
What do you use to clean the old intake manifold gasket off? Where I can buy new injectors and have them delivered FAST??
04-28-2006, 08:41 AM
#5
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 113
I have tore down the top part of my motor several times here latley. Use this link http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f4ca2.jsp
But just as a guide. If you feel like doing this your self you will need to go and buy a Chiltons manual for our cars (not the Haynes) as it will tell you how to unbolt the upper intake collector in bolt order as well as retourqe order, and the lower intake plemum unbolt order and retourqe order.
The tools that you need for this job are a 10mm, 12mm socket. 3/8 extensions. A 5mm and 6mm allen socket for the bolt's on the collector and the lower plemum.
I hope this helps if you are planning on doing the job your self. If not I hope that this helps you to understand what they are going to have to do to get to the injectors. The injectors are about $100.00 or so a peice. You will need gaskets for the collector, the lower intake plenum, the intake elbow, gasket maker for the erg valve tube, and you will need o-ring's for any fuel injector that you replace.
Have a good day and good luck...
But just as a guide. If you feel like doing this your self you will need to go and buy a Chiltons manual for our cars (not the Haynes) as it will tell you how to unbolt the upper intake collector in bolt order as well as retourqe order, and the lower intake plemum unbolt order and retourqe order.
The tools that you need for this job are a 10mm, 12mm socket. 3/8 extensions. A 5mm and 6mm allen socket for the bolt's on the collector and the lower plemum.
I hope this helps if you are planning on doing the job your self. If not I hope that this helps you to understand what they are going to have to do to get to the injectors. The injectors are about $100.00 or so a peice. You will need gaskets for the collector, the lower intake plenum, the intake elbow, gasket maker for the erg valve tube, and you will need o-ring's for any fuel injector that you replace.
Have a good day and good luck...
04-28-2006, 09:44 AM
#6
i bought a set of reman injectors only to have them send me the wrong style and get shafted. i would buy a used fuel rail with the injector resistance tested and drop them in better than just changing one. my car sat for almost 2 months waiting for the right parts
04-28-2006, 12:07 PM
#7
ok the injectors are the same for 89-92 and for 93 and 94. Ok you can mix the dots they dont have a dam thing on how the injector works. they all om the same and have the same flow rate 180cc. For the vg engine there are two differant injectors for the engine they just have differant conectorsone is sqare and one is oval . 93-94 = oval
04-28-2006, 01:34 PM
#8
04-28-2006, 02:10 PM
#9
Originally Posted by 93turbo gxe
ok the injectors are the same for 89-92 and for 93 and 94. Ok you can mix the dots they dont have a dam thing on how the injector works. they all om the same and have the same flow rate 180cc. For the vg engine there are two differant injectors for the engine they just have differant conectorsone is sqare and one is oval . 93-94 = oval
04-28-2006, 05:04 PM
#10
Originally Posted by falseicon
I thought you had to match dot color (and went through some crap to do it). Can you run black/blue or yellow/green mixed?
04-28-2006, 09:38 PM
#11
GXE back from the dead
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 19
i sourced all six of my injectors with fuel rail from a junkyard. i didnt have to worry about the dots because the parts came from the same engine. a buddy of mine that used to own a shop charged me $300 for one bad injector(parts and labor) and 2 months later another one went out. thats when i decided to source used ones and sent them out to rc engineering. http://www.rceng.com/ i dropped them off at noon and got them the next day at 9am via fed ex. i did the work the 2nd time around and its not that bad granted you have all the gaskets and o rings ready for the job.
* one of the toughest things to get out are the injectors out of the fuel rail. i used 2 screwdrivers and carefully wedge each side slowly till they came out. be carefull not to break the plastic cap where the connectors go
the car runs really smooth now
hope this helps some...good luck
* one of the toughest things to get out are the injectors out of the fuel rail. i used 2 screwdrivers and carefully wedge each side slowly till they came out. be carefull not to break the plastic cap where the connectors go
the car runs really smooth now
hope this helps some...good luck
04-29-2006, 12:27 PM
#12
GXE back from the dead
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 19
this is what i found on http://www.nissanx.com/f0rums/thread...d=37&styleid=2
Replacing the Fuel Injectors -
(edited from previous information supplied by B. Tisch)
Below are the procedures that I used in performing the replacement of my fuel injectors. I drew this up to serve as guidance for you, but I neither guarantee the results nor say that this is the correct procedure, although I did reference the Nissan Factory Service Manual,
hereinafter ("FSM"), as well as info from the web sites of fellow Maxima enthusiasts Bryan Tisch and Matt Blehm.
Also note that this information is related to the 92-94 VE30DE engine, although I'm sure some of it can be applied to the VG30E engine, as well. If you have any doubts on your capability in performing this replacement, take your car to a certified mechanic.
What you need:
1. Intake manifold gasket; part number 14032-97E00
2. Throttle body gasket; part number 16175-53J00
3. E.G.R. gasket; Napa part number G31106
4. New / remanufactured fuel injectors/fuel rail assembly
The steps I performed:
1. Release fuel pressure to zero and disconnect the negative battery.
a. I did this by pulling the fuel pump fuse.
2. Separate the accelerator cables from the throttle body.
a. They easily slide off. Tilt the butterfly valves back to get them.
b. Remove the cabling and routing from the intake plenum.
3. Unhook the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and (if Cali-spec Maxima) exhaust gas temperature sensor. This is located right next to the E.G.R. valve.
4. Remove the intake elbow leading to the throttle body.
a. There are two clamps on each end, and one clamp on the underside of the elbow.
There are also two "squeeze-type" clamps holding hoses on either side of the elbow, as well.
b. Mine took a flat-head screwdriver, but I think either a 7mm or 10mm socket will work, as well.
5. Label and unhook the hoses from under the throttle body.
a. This would include the E.G.R. valve, the E.G.R. control solenoid valve, the intake manifold collector, and (if equipped with a manual transmission) the power valve control solenoid and the power valve actuator.
6. Disconnect throttle sensor harness connector (a c-clip holds this, and other harnesses, in place.
7. Remove the intake manifold support bolts, located on the back of the intake manifold.
a. There are two brackets, with two bolts each. This takes a 12mm socket, and a little contortionist work, as the working space is very limited.
8. There is a large, c-shaped hose that's just to the right and behind the throttle body. I would recommend removing it, just so it is out of the way.
9. Remove the E.G.R. body from the back of the intake manifold.
a. This is held on by two nuts. I think they are 12mm in size.
10. Remove the hose that runs along the front of the intake manifold.
a. This is held on by two 10mm hex bolts that secure it to the manifold at 2.7-3-7 ft. lbs.
b. At this point, I would probably also remove the following: the wiring harness for the back and front row of coils, the PCV hose behind the intake manifold, another smaller hose just above the PCV hose, and the vacuum hose railing (10mm).
11. Remove the intake manifold.
a. There are six 6mm hex bolts that hold down the manifold at 13 - 16 ft lbs.
b. There is a special torque sequence that I observed in both loosening them and tightening them down. You will likely need to pry the manifold up and out, ensuring that no hoses, wires, etc., are still connected as you do so.
At this point, you should have the intake completely removed, which will leave 6 gaping holes in the top of your engine, which match up to the intake to the engine. There will likely be some remnants of the gasket there, as well. Plug up the intake holes before
cleaning the gasket surface.
12. Remove the fuel injector harness wires.
a. For the 92,93,94's this is easy, as you just apply pressure on the harness and pull.
b. For the 90 and 91's (and presumably 89's) there is a metal wire clip that you must pull out or partially out to remove the connector.
13. Remove fuel injector(s)
a. At this point, I removed the entire fuel rail assembly, since my replacement was a complete assembly. If you're doing it the way I did mine, then the bolts that hold it down are 6mm hex bolts, torqued at 2.7-3.7 ft. lbs. Otherwise, if you're just taking out the injectors themselves, use a pair of pliers and grip them tightly, turning the injectors back and forth
before pulling upward. All should come out easily.
b. There should be two O rings per injector for the 92-94 injectors. I removed my entire fuel rail, so I'm only going by previous information, along with info from a
Chilton's manual. The lower O-ring will likely stay in the fuel rail hole upon removal of the injector. Just stick your finger in and retrieve it. Be sure to replace with new "O"
rings, per the FSM.
14. Replace injector(s)
a. Apply motor oil or petroleum jelly to the O rings and carefully insert the new fuel injector. Instead of just pushing downward immediately, you should turn it back and forth, while applying downward pressure. You will see and feel the injector seat in how it should be. Before replacing, assure that the new ones spec out correctly with regard to resistance. The range of resistance allowed by Nissan is 10 –14 ohms.
15. Clean intake manifold, and intake runners.
a. I used Carb clean to do this. I sprayed a good amount of Carb clean down the intake runners and used a cloth to wipe the dirt out. You may want to try a toothbrush if you've got that kind of patience.
b. Be sure to completely scrape away all remaining gasket material on both surfaces so as not to allow an intake leak after assembly.
16. Reinstall all parts in reverse order, keeping in mind the torque sequence and use the torque wrench so as to tighten the following to these torque specifications, per the FSM:
a. Throttle body bolts (2-step process) - (1)6.5-8 ft. lbs. (2)13-16 ft. lbs.
b. Intake manifold hex bolts, 13-16 ft. lbs.
c. E.G.R. valve bolts – 9-12 ft lbs.
d. Intake manifold support brackets - 12-15 ft. lbs.
17. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start the engine and check for leaks.
Replacing the Fuel Injectors -
(edited from previous information supplied by B. Tisch)
Below are the procedures that I used in performing the replacement of my fuel injectors. I drew this up to serve as guidance for you, but I neither guarantee the results nor say that this is the correct procedure, although I did reference the Nissan Factory Service Manual,
hereinafter ("FSM"), as well as info from the web sites of fellow Maxima enthusiasts Bryan Tisch and Matt Blehm.
Also note that this information is related to the 92-94 VE30DE engine, although I'm sure some of it can be applied to the VG30E engine, as well. If you have any doubts on your capability in performing this replacement, take your car to a certified mechanic.
What you need:
1. Intake manifold gasket; part number 14032-97E00
2. Throttle body gasket; part number 16175-53J00
3. E.G.R. gasket; Napa part number G31106
4. New / remanufactured fuel injectors/fuel rail assembly
The steps I performed:
1. Release fuel pressure to zero and disconnect the negative battery.
a. I did this by pulling the fuel pump fuse.
2. Separate the accelerator cables from the throttle body.
a. They easily slide off. Tilt the butterfly valves back to get them.
b. Remove the cabling and routing from the intake plenum.
3. Unhook the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and (if Cali-spec Maxima) exhaust gas temperature sensor. This is located right next to the E.G.R. valve.
4. Remove the intake elbow leading to the throttle body.
a. There are two clamps on each end, and one clamp on the underside of the elbow.
There are also two "squeeze-type" clamps holding hoses on either side of the elbow, as well.
b. Mine took a flat-head screwdriver, but I think either a 7mm or 10mm socket will work, as well.
5. Label and unhook the hoses from under the throttle body.
a. This would include the E.G.R. valve, the E.G.R. control solenoid valve, the intake manifold collector, and (if equipped with a manual transmission) the power valve control solenoid and the power valve actuator.
6. Disconnect throttle sensor harness connector (a c-clip holds this, and other harnesses, in place.
7. Remove the intake manifold support bolts, located on the back of the intake manifold.
a. There are two brackets, with two bolts each. This takes a 12mm socket, and a little contortionist work, as the working space is very limited.
8. There is a large, c-shaped hose that's just to the right and behind the throttle body. I would recommend removing it, just so it is out of the way.
9. Remove the E.G.R. body from the back of the intake manifold.
a. This is held on by two nuts. I think they are 12mm in size.
10. Remove the hose that runs along the front of the intake manifold.
a. This is held on by two 10mm hex bolts that secure it to the manifold at 2.7-3-7 ft. lbs.
b. At this point, I would probably also remove the following: the wiring harness for the back and front row of coils, the PCV hose behind the intake manifold, another smaller hose just above the PCV hose, and the vacuum hose railing (10mm).
11. Remove the intake manifold.
a. There are six 6mm hex bolts that hold down the manifold at 13 - 16 ft lbs.
b. There is a special torque sequence that I observed in both loosening them and tightening them down. You will likely need to pry the manifold up and out, ensuring that no hoses, wires, etc., are still connected as you do so.
At this point, you should have the intake completely removed, which will leave 6 gaping holes in the top of your engine, which match up to the intake to the engine. There will likely be some remnants of the gasket there, as well. Plug up the intake holes before
cleaning the gasket surface.
12. Remove the fuel injector harness wires.
a. For the 92,93,94's this is easy, as you just apply pressure on the harness and pull.
b. For the 90 and 91's (and presumably 89's) there is a metal wire clip that you must pull out or partially out to remove the connector.
13. Remove fuel injector(s)
a. At this point, I removed the entire fuel rail assembly, since my replacement was a complete assembly. If you're doing it the way I did mine, then the bolts that hold it down are 6mm hex bolts, torqued at 2.7-3.7 ft. lbs. Otherwise, if you're just taking out the injectors themselves, use a pair of pliers and grip them tightly, turning the injectors back and forth
before pulling upward. All should come out easily.
b. There should be two O rings per injector for the 92-94 injectors. I removed my entire fuel rail, so I'm only going by previous information, along with info from a
Chilton's manual. The lower O-ring will likely stay in the fuel rail hole upon removal of the injector. Just stick your finger in and retrieve it. Be sure to replace with new "O"
rings, per the FSM.
14. Replace injector(s)
a. Apply motor oil or petroleum jelly to the O rings and carefully insert the new fuel injector. Instead of just pushing downward immediately, you should turn it back and forth, while applying downward pressure. You will see and feel the injector seat in how it should be. Before replacing, assure that the new ones spec out correctly with regard to resistance. The range of resistance allowed by Nissan is 10 –14 ohms.
15. Clean intake manifold, and intake runners.
a. I used Carb clean to do this. I sprayed a good amount of Carb clean down the intake runners and used a cloth to wipe the dirt out. You may want to try a toothbrush if you've got that kind of patience.
b. Be sure to completely scrape away all remaining gasket material on both surfaces so as not to allow an intake leak after assembly.
16. Reinstall all parts in reverse order, keeping in mind the torque sequence and use the torque wrench so as to tighten the following to these torque specifications, per the FSM:
a. Throttle body bolts (2-step process) - (1)6.5-8 ft. lbs. (2)13-16 ft. lbs.
b. Intake manifold hex bolts, 13-16 ft. lbs.
c. E.G.R. valve bolts – 9-12 ft lbs.
d. Intake manifold support brackets - 12-15 ft. lbs.
17. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
18. Start the engine and check for leaks.
05-02-2006, 06:29 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by shavedmax
i just greased the seals up to keep them going in ok. gaskets should be a put it on and tighten it down sort of deal. silicone could mess up the seal, unless you're trying to reuse them
Also my Hayes manual shows the piston order as:
135
246
^
|
front
Is it safe to assume that fuel injector #3 would be in piston position 3 as shown above? How do I locate injector # 3??
EDIT: Also where is the fuse to the fuel pump so I can release fuel pressure??
05-03-2006, 06:34 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
he was talking about the O ring on the injector(I think) and you do not want put anything else on the gasket
use a multimeter and get the resistance reading of each injector, it is easy to tell which one is bad
and finally:
use a multimeter and get the resistance reading of each injector, it is easy to tell which one is bad
and finally:
Originally Posted by Juicey
When you say "grease the seals" which seals and which grease?
Also my Hayes manual shows the piston order as:
135
246
^
|
front
Is it safe to assume that fuel injector #3 would be in piston position 3 as shown above? How do I locate injector # 3??
EDIT: Also where is the fuse to the fuel pump so I can release fuel pressure??
Also my Hayes manual shows the piston order as:
135
246
^
|
front
Is it safe to assume that fuel injector #3 would be in piston position 3 as shown above? How do I locate injector # 3??
EDIT: Also where is the fuse to the fuel pump so I can release fuel pressure??
05-03-2006, 06:49 AM
#18
Originally Posted by zhusst
he was talking about the O ring on the injector(I think) and you do not want put anything else on the gasket
use a multimeter and get the resistance reading of each injector, it is easy to tell which one is bad
and finally:
use a multimeter and get the resistance reading of each injector, it is easy to tell which one is bad
and finally:
I would start the car,then unplug each coil[or plug wire if vg],the bad injector will be the one that doesn't change the idle of the car when you unplug the coilpack...
05-03-2006, 05:36 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Juicey
When you say "grease the seals" which seals and which grease?
Also my Hayes manual shows the piston order as:
135
246
^
|
front
Is it safe to assume that fuel injector #3 would be in piston position 3 as shown above? How do I locate injector # 3??
EDIT: Also where is the fuse to the fuel pump so I can release fuel pressure??
Also my Hayes manual shows the piston order as:
135
246
^
|
front
Is it safe to assume that fuel injector #3 would be in piston position 3 as shown above? How do I locate injector # 3??
EDIT: Also where is the fuse to the fuel pump so I can release fuel pressure??
05-04-2006, 07:36 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 665
Thanks for all the info, everyone!!
If anyone has replaced a fuel injector on a VG engine recently and came across any problems they think I should know about please let me know! Post or PM.
I'm going to replace the injector this Saturday so I'll check back before then. I'm thinking of doing a write-up with pictures since the current write-up is for a VE.
If anyone has replaced a fuel injector on a VG engine recently and came across any problems they think I should know about please let me know! Post or PM.
I'm going to replace the injector this Saturday so I'll check back before then. I'm thinking of doing a write-up with pictures since the current write-up is for a VE.
05-04-2006, 12:12 PM
#21
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 113
The only problem that I had was getting the fuel injectors out of the rail. I have also had mine apart 2 times, the first time I had the rail out of the car and that was not fun to pull the injectors out of. The second time when I found that I had a bad one I left the rail on the car and twisted the injector back and forth until it came out. Just thought I would add that.
05-04-2006, 05:06 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by JstAntrRoky
The only problem that I had was getting the fuel injectors out of the rail. I have also had mine apart 2 times, the first time I had the rail out of the car and that was not fun to pull the injectors out of. The second time when I found that I had a bad one I left the rail on the car and twisted the injector back and forth until it came out. Just thought I would add that.
05-05-2006, 05:32 AM
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How do the throttle cables come off? I haven't really looked at them yet but is there a way to remove the cable itself or are there bolts to remove the entire thing?
Also anyone have pictures of where the coil packs are located and how I would unplug one while the engine is running?
Also anyone have pictures of where the coil packs are located and how I would unplug one while the engine is running?
05-05-2006, 07:31 AM
#25
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
You got a VE engine, the fuse layout for VG is different.
Have not check my car yet, but here is the VE section in my manual:
Have not check my car yet, but here is the VE section in my manual:
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
First of all,that is not the f/p fuse..
I would start the car,then unplug each coil[or plug wire if vg],the bad injector will be the one that doesn't change the idle of the car when you unplug the coilpack...
I would start the car,then unplug each coil[or plug wire if vg],the bad injector will be the one that doesn't change the idle of the car when you unplug the coilpack...
05-05-2006, 09:44 AM
#26
Originally Posted by Juicey
How do the throttle cables come off? I haven't really looked at them yet but is there a way to remove the cable itself or are there bolts to remove the entire thing?
Also anyone have pictures of where the coil packs are located and how I would unplug one while the engine is running?
Also anyone have pictures of where the coil packs are located and how I would unplug one while the engine is running?
05-05-2006, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by shavedmax
coil packs are only on ve and vq engines, NOT vg. they sit right on top of the spark plug. the throttle cable has a bracket that bolts on. take it off, twist the throttle to wide open, and remove the nub that holds the cable in the throttle body
05-05-2006, 06:06 PM
#28
Originally Posted by zhusst
You got a VE engine, the fuse layout for VG is different.
Have not check my car yet, but here is the VE section in my manual:
Have not check my car yet, but here is the VE section in my manual:
Sorry about the disinformation juicey....
05-06-2006, 04:52 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Ooops.. Sorry about the disinformation juicey....
Sorry about the disinformation juicey....
. But yeah it was at the top as I have a VG engine 
05-06-2006, 05:57 AM
#30
Originally Posted by Juicey
No, you were right. My fuel pump fuse is at the top. Regardless the fuse diagram tells me where it is . But yeah it was at the top as I have a VG engine
. But yeah it was at the top as I have a VG engine 
I checked it and it does list them in different places...
05-06-2006, 07:35 AM
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Hey, I have some smaller hoses, without clips, that I can't seem to get off. I'm afraid of tearing them up trying to yank them out. Any advice on these and where could I get replacements if I mess them up??
05-06-2006, 08:16 AM
#32
stick a small screwdriver in from behinf to break the seal. theyre going to be brittle and may break. some can be replaced with generic vacuum hoses, some have intricate bends and wont work if you use a vacuum hose from a parts store. the one that goes to the pcv valve(in the back) WILL break on you. it feels like it's plastic but its just dried up rubber. its 10-15 bucks to replace. try to get it off as best as possible and id it's in one piece maybe use some liqid gasket stuff on it to make sure it's sealed.
i hope you have another mode of transportation. mine was layed up for 2 months waiting for a fuel rail to come in after i blew the seals on my rebuilt ones. the A$$ i bought it from wouldnt offer me new seals
i hope you have another mode of transportation. mine was layed up for 2 months waiting for a fuel rail to come in after i blew the seals on my rebuilt ones. the A$$ i bought it from wouldnt offer me new seals
05-06-2006, 08:27 AM
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Thanks for the info!
I'm only replacing a single fuel injector, not the rail or anything so I shouldn't have to really do anything with the rail besides get the injector out.
I have a 98 I drive and so I should be good. Either way I have to order the injector so it's going to be a couple days before it's all back together again.
I'm only replacing a single fuel injector, not the rail or anything so I shouldn't have to really do anything with the rail besides get the injector out.
I have a 98 I drive and so I should be good. Either way I have to order the injector so it's going to be a couple days before it's all back together again.
05-06-2006, 02:17 PM
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All done! At least until I get the injector in the mail Monday. It was green dot type. So far only two hoses messed up and only because they were fused to their metal contacts from being suck there for years and years.
I might take some pictures as I'm putting it back together but that depends on how quickly I feel on finishing.
Thanks again. You guys saved me $400!
I might take some pictures as I'm putting it back together but that depends on how quickly I feel on finishing.
Thanks again. You guys saved me $400!
05-07-2006, 06:01 AM
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Posts: 665
Originally Posted by shavedmax
stick a small screwdriver in from behinf to break the seal. theyre going to be brittle and may break. some can be replaced with generic vacuum hoses, some have intricate bends and wont work if you use a vacuum hose from a parts store. the one that goes to the pcv valve(in the back) WILL break on you. it feels like it's plastic but its just dried up rubber. its 10-15 bucks to replace. try to get it off as best as possible and id it's in one piece maybe use some liqid gasket stuff on it to make sure it's sealed.
i hope you have another mode of transportation. mine was layed up for 2 months waiting for a fuel rail to come in after i blew the seals on my rebuilt ones. the A$$ i bought it from wouldnt offer me new seals
i hope you have another mode of transportation. mine was layed up for 2 months waiting for a fuel rail to come in after i blew the seals on my rebuilt ones. the A$$ i bought it from wouldnt offer me new seals
EDIT: NEVER MIND. It's the power brake booster hose. SORRY!
05-07-2006, 04:10 PM
#39
Originally Posted by randalstl
where is the best place to buy the injecters? I really don't want the remanufacatured, I would rather have new. I checked autozones website and they want $124.99 each, I would like to buy all 6.
thanks
thanks
Internetautomart has them..They are new bosch injectors..
http://www.internetautomart.com/maxi.../boschinj.html
05-07-2006, 05:47 PM
#40
Originally Posted by randalstl
where is the best place to buy the injecters? I really don't want the remanufacatured, I would rather have new. I checked autozones website and they want $124.99 each, I would like to buy all 6.
thanks
thanks