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Old 03-18-2006, 09:32 PM   #1
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VTC write up

Ok I just finished rebuiling my VTCs and figured I would do a write up since there is not a full one anywhere to be found. Here is the word document complete with pictures. If anybody wants to add anything to it or critique anything I did please post it and I will add it in.http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~jtdubach/orgpics/VTC/vtc.doc
oh yeah boy is there a difference now acceleration is much more constant at higher rpms.


Here is the write up (copy and pasted hence the poor format) if you want the pictures you need to download the wordfile.



VTC REBUILD
Disclaimer: I do not take responsibility for any damage you do to your engine by following these instructions.

What you will need
1. Upper Manifold gasket (P/N: 14035-97E00)
2. Valve cover gaskets(2)( P/N: 13270-93E00 & 13270-93E05)
3. VTC rebuild Kit(2) (P/N: 13072-97E00)
4. Silicone sealant
5. Throttle body gasket(optional)
6. EGR gasket (optional)
7. Chain tensioners (optional)


1. Remove hood(optional)
2. Disconnect battery
3. Remove Radiator hose
a. Stuff open passages w/ rags.
4. Belt removal
a. Remove tension pulley.
b. Remove belt.
5. Remove Stock Airbox/Intake.
6. Upper intake manifold removal
a. Remove MAF.
b. Remove connections to TB.
c. Remove coil packs.
d. Disconnect throttle cables.
e. Remove vacuum hoses(Label or take pictures).
f. Disconnect EGR system.
g. Remove Throttle Body.(optional)
h. Unbolt brackets from EM.
i. Disconnect PCV hose.
j. Check for anything I forgot to mention.
k. Unbolt IM.
l. STUFF THE PORTS YOU DO NOT WANT ANYTHING TO FALL DOWN INTO THE ENGINE.
7. (Optional) Remove upper power steering hose
a. I did this to gain access to the rear chain cover bolts.
8. Valve cover removal
a. Remove coil packs.
9. Chain cover removal
a. Remove bolts on timing chain cover (The right hand cover is easy however for the left cover I found it easiest to take the lower bolts out by taking the wheel off and getting at them from below. Some have jacked up the engine to get to the rear side but I have no experience with that.)
b. Remove chain guide.

10. Set engine to top dead center
a. Turn crankshaft until #1 piston(front on rear bank) is at TDC (look at the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the cam positions to be sure also see NTB93-126 for instructions).
b. Check for the marks on the crankshaft pulley to line up.
c. With the engine at top dead center mark the VTCs, exhaust sprockets, cams, and chains ( I did this for peace of mind).
d. Turn the engine to 120° Before Top Dead center (turning counter clockwise.)
e. Remark all parts
i. It is imperative that you look at the positioning of your cams, you do not want to have any interference between your cams and pistons. The VE engine is very much an interference engine and if you screw up there is very little you can do to fix it. Basically as you are going through this just think about how the engine works and what is going to happen if you do X, if you rush you will mess something up.


11. Removal of VTC
a. Make sure that you have marked the VTC with respect to the chain and camshaft.
b. Remove VTC solenoid (you may clean out this area if there is a blockage of any sort).
c. Remove chain tensioner.


d. Remove bolt from center of VTC.
e. Remove VTC from engine
i. Try to keep the chain from moving off of the exhaust sprocket when you remove the VTC this will save you from second guessing yourself later.
























12. Rebuilding of VTC
a. Remove gears and spring.
i. I placed mine in a vice with a U bolt and a socket and then press them until the inside of the bottom assembly protrudes and the cap pops off.


b. Mark all of the spline gears on the VTC before you disassemble them.




c. Replace spring.


d. Reassemble so the markings on gears match.
i. Remember that as you push the gears into each other the marks are going to rotate.

e. Press gears into VTC sprocket with new spring, end cap and seals (using vice, socket, U bolt).

13. Clean out oil gallies.
a. REFER TO NTB93-189.
14. Replace VTC
a. Realign marks on chain with marks on with sprocket.
b. Reinstall VTC.
i. For the rear VTC you will need to put the bolt and VTC in at the same time because there is not enough space to slide the bolt in after the VTC in is.

c. Reinstall chain tensioner.
d. Make sure that all of the bolts are torqued per the FSM if you do not have one I highly suggest you purchase one or contact me.
e. Turn engine by hand 5 or more times to ensure no interference ( I did it about 10 times).
f. REPEAT FOR OPPOSITE SIDE.
15. Reassemble chain covers, chain guide, valve covers, upper manifold, replace any hoses as needed and ensure all gaskets are seated correctly.

BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING AND MAKE SURE THE ENGINE TURNS BY HAND (TRY 10 OR SO TIMES)
16. Reassemble everything you took apart and cross your fingers.




LINKS: http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetrain/vtc/vtc.shtml
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=404595
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.p...&highlight=vtc
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.p...&highlight=vtc
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.p...&highlight=vtc
http://www.geocities.com/maximamike/nvcs-bible.html

Useful NTBs:
NTB93-126
NTB93-189
NTB95-022
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Last edited by Greeny; 10-31-2007 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:50 PM   #2
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this should be stickied!!!
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:08 PM   #3
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i have 90+ pics of the whole process but i'm not going to put any up unless i can figure out how to resize them all at once...calling mrgone any tips? I don't know of any editor I can do that in.
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:37 PM   #4
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Bibble


www.bibblelabs.com


or a batch in Photoshop, but IMHO Bibble is easier/faster
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:14 PM   #5
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Excellent job man! That's what I've been looking for! I was going to make a write up when I was going to do mine, but I guess you spared me the effort.

I also suggest that it should be stickied.
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Old 03-19-2006, 06:35 AM   #6
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I use(d) Easy thumbnail. it is (was) an awesome program for making bulk thumbnails or plain old resizing
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:31 AM   #7
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Here are the pics of the whole project incase anyone needs them for a reference. http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~jtdubach/VTC%20REPAIR/index you can even see the difference in the length of the old and new springs. And holy crap Shawn Bibble is awesome it even made the page for me!!
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:14 AM   #8
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nice thread man... props... STICKY!
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:18 AM   #9
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is that an EGR temp sensor? U got Cali spec car. What are the disadvantages/advantages of a Cali spec car?
Just curious
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff583
is that an EGR temp sensor? U got Cali spec car. What are the disadvantages/advantages of a Cali spec car?
Just curious
None either way,the egr temp sensor just monitors exhaust gas temps,then adjusts air/fuel to keep it a little cleaner burning,I suspect it's very mimimal of an adjustment at that..
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:08 PM   #11
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great info this is what org. members live for ,great job!
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Old 11-21-2007, 11:16 AM   #12
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Just out of curiosity, why is this not stickied?
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Old 11-21-2007, 02:30 PM   #13
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It is now..
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:53 PM   #14
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Thanks
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Old 06-29-2008, 11:18 PM   #15
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While the engine is apart I understand how to 'turn the engine by hand', but what about that last piece of advice saying to turn the engine by hand several times before you start it? As in, start it when it's reassembled? How the heck?
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyd View Post
While the engine is apart I understand how to 'turn the engine by hand', but what about that last piece of advice saying to turn the engine by hand several times before you start it? As in, start it when it's reassembled? How the heck?
I'm pretty sure that the OP is simply advising you to turn the engine by hand to make sure that the valve timing isn't so far off that you damage the engine when you try to start it. If it doesn't turn freely by hand then the valve timing is off enough for the valves to hit the pistons.

Good luck and make sure that the throttle and cruise control cables aren't too tight. I made this mistake and the engine revved to 3500 rpm immediately, I shut it off because I was afraid, and then I properly adjusted the CC cable. It was only off by about 1mm. When I restarted the engine it didn't run correctly because the timing chain jumped a tooth when I shut it off. You probably won't make this mistake, but it REALLY sucks when you do.
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Old 10-30-2009, 01:02 PM   #17
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thanks OP!

anyone know how to download the pictures? the above links do not work for me. thanks.
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefbowl View Post
thanks OP!

anyone know how to download the pictures? the above links do not work for me. thanks.
because they're 3 yrs old? OP probably lost hosting from college in that time?
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:05 AM   #19
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Wow it has been a while, I still have the file but yes, I no longer have my school for a server. However, I can email it to anyone who wants it, it is fairly large. Just PM me your email address.
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