Input shaft bearing
11-01-2005, 11:45 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 476
Input shaft bearing
Yep, that it's little guy we all know and love. I have a brand new one sitting on my desk, and my tranny is getting louder and louder every week it seems. I probably wont have time to replace it untill Thanksgiving. I will probably put on 200 or so miles by then, hopefully it lasts. Still shifts fine, except it's hard getting it into 1st when I'm moving at all.
How involved is this job? Can I split the tranny case, and bring the input shaft and the new bearing to my trusty good ol' boys part shop/garage? They put my wheel bearing in the hub and resurfaced my flywheel before.
How hard is to to take apart the tranny and put it back together for a relative novice? Will I need any tools other than a good metric socket set and a torque wrench?
How involved is this job? Can I split the tranny case, and bring the input shaft and the new bearing to my trusty good ol' boys part shop/garage? They put my wheel bearing in the hub and resurfaced my flywheel before.
How hard is to to take apart the tranny and put it back together for a relative novice? Will I need any tools other than a good metric socket set and a torque wrench?
11-01-2005, 01:25 PM
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,371
do you have an FSM because with out that you may not be able to figure out how to split the case the is a spacific procedure you have to follow to split it and then another several steps to get the input shaft out i have an FSM, a press to replace the bearing and have taken apart these transmissions before "i have 2 apart on a bench in my workroom and another in a box" so if you need help let me know
11-01-2005, 01:36 PM
#3
pulling the tranny out and taking it to a shop would be my recommendation.
unless you have a FSM on your workbench, do not even try to split the tranny case. you'll ruin the shift linkages if you do that. (AMHIK
)
in order to get the bearings off the shaft, you're going to need a bearing separator tool and a hydraulic press. if you don't have those two tools, you're not going to be able to do the job.
unless you have a FSM on your workbench, do not even try to split the tranny case. you'll ruin the shift linkages if you do that. (AMHIK
)in order to get the bearings off the shaft, you're going to need a bearing separator tool and a hydraulic press. if you don't have those two tools, you're not going to be able to do the job.
11-01-2005, 01:38 PM
#4
The only things you will need in addition to basic tools are a putty knife (or something flat and somewhat sharp to split the case open) and a 3-jaw puller to pull the old bearing off. The new one just hammers on, just use a pipe or something so that you get even pressure on the bearing each time you hit it. An FSM is a very good thing to have, although you dont need to mess with pulling apart the reverse mechanism like it says.
11-02-2005, 03:16 AM
#5
what's all this jazz about specific procedure splitting the case? unscrew checkball nuts, keep track of springs and *****, pry apart with crowbar at the correct spots. you definitely do need a repair manual though, and a good assortment of pry bars. slabs of particle board will come in handy, hammer/mallet. 35mm socket for your axle bolt. for tranny disassebly you're going to need pliers, screw drivers, basic stuff. make sure to keep track of all the ***** and springs. i went to a machine shop and they pulled off the inner ring from the broken bearing, pressed on the new one in 5 minutes. don't let a shop charge you for an hour of labor because it's not an hour long job. you'll need a lot of patience and i hope you have a garage to work in considering it's november now. good luck, it's a nice challenge.
11-02-2005, 07:42 AM
#6
the springs and check ***** are the important part. you eff that up and you get to buy a new transmission when the thing engages into 2 gears while it's rolling. been there, done that. not cool.
once you pull them apart, you've got to be VERY specific on which order you put everything back in, which is where the FSM comes in handy.
if you follow the directions to the letter, it's not a hard job. but if you just randomly pry and tweak, you're going to FUBAR something and then I'm going to point and laugh while you pay $$$$ for parts you didn't have to break.
once you pull them apart, you've got to be VERY specific on which order you put everything back in, which is where the FSM comes in handy.
if you follow the directions to the letter, it's not a hard job. but if you just randomly pry and tweak, you're going to FUBAR something and then I'm going to point and laugh while you pay $$$$ for parts you didn't have to break.
11-02-2005, 08:55 AM
#7
wow, did you lose track of a ball or 2? ii just slid all the forks and shafts off of the rods out one piece which brad92 recommended. had to pull the rods out a couple times but the ***** and springs pretty much stayed in their place even when the rods were out. which ***** and springs caused you the problems? the few in the housing or the ones along the base of the rods?
11-02-2005, 09:16 AM
#8
both, if you're going to be doing enough work to have to remove the shafts.
the first time you bump the case on the workbench, the ***** and springs will move. you just got lucky I guess. I've had them fall down into the case and had to remove them with tweezers and magnets, then get them back in the right slots in the case. PITA, trust me.
the first time you bump the case on the workbench, the ***** and springs will move. you just got lucky I guess. I've had them fall down into the case and had to remove them with tweezers and magnets, then get them back in the right slots in the case. PITA, trust me.
11-02-2005, 09:59 AM
#9
well i didn't get lucky
i kept close tabs of all check ***** and springs and left the rods in place as much as possible. anyway, i thought this was about separating the case. there's just a couple or check ***** and springs there, i was just wondering why you told him "do not even try to split the tranny case. you'll ruin the shift linkages if you do that." maybe i'm not understanding your meaning of "split"..
i kept close tabs of all check ***** and springs and left the rods in place as much as possible. anyway, i thought this was about separating the case. there's just a couple or check ***** and springs there, i was just wondering why you told him "do not even try to split the tranny case. you'll ruin the shift linkages if you do that." maybe i'm not understanding your meaning of "split"..
11-02-2005, 10:51 AM
#10
The biggest PITA of the job, by far, is putting the gears back in. That 3rd shift rail (the one closest to the LSD) gave me so much crap, lining it up with the check ball that is at the base. The other shafts kept moving and pushing that thing out so that the rail wouldnt slide into the hole all the way.
11-02-2005, 02:30 PM
#11
Is the bearing the only thing that usially needs replacing, or is the other stuff that should be replaced at the same time? mine is making noise when the clutch is ingaged, not all the time, though. I don't have any problems switching gears, yet.
11-02-2005, 02:54 PM
#13
well if you want you can completely rebuild the shafts, replace the synchros and whatnot. it's easiest just to open it up, clean out the debris, replace broken bearing, re-assemble and get back on the road. that's just my opinion though.
11-02-2005, 03:26 PM
#16
Here are a couple more questions: 1. Which input shaft bearing is it, front or rear? 2.In the manual it says that after replacing Input shaft, or it's bearing, suppose to adjust input shaft end play. That means choosing an adjusting shim, right? Do those come with bearing, or do I buy a kit, or do I mesure it first, and then buy a right size?
Thank you for help, I never went inside a tranny before.
Thank you for help, I never went inside a tranny before.
11-02-2005, 03:53 PM
#17
replace the front and rear inputs shaft bearings. they'll run you about $50 each.
don't wory about the shims. I haven't had a problem with them yet..
just make sure you put the old ones back in.. when you lay the bellhousing face down on the bench, the shims will be on the top of the input shaft stack, sometimes pressed together with the plastic endcap on the shaft. if not, they'll be in the top of the case, held in by goo.
definitely replace your throwout bearing, input and output shaft seals (3 total).
also replace your rear main seal on the engine if it's leaking, and it wouldn't hurt to resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch.
don't wory about the shims. I haven't had a problem with them yet..
just make sure you put the old ones back in.. when you lay the bellhousing face down on the bench, the shims will be on the top of the input shaft stack, sometimes pressed together with the plastic endcap on the shaft. if not, they'll be in the top of the case, held in by goo.
definitely replace your throwout bearing, input and output shaft seals (3 total).
also replace your rear main seal on the engine if it's leaking, and it wouldn't hurt to resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch.
04-20-2009, 12:04 AM
#19
We can work something out. I have a spare trans with a good bearing. Maybe I can swap it with you if you're willing to let me convert your GXE to analog, and let me keep the digi parts
Nice find btw!
Nice find btw!
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