Headlight problem
10-14-2005, 11:17 AM
#1
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Headlight problem
Hey guys looking for some advice.
For about a month now one of my head lights has not been working. The day lights work fine as well as the brights. I replaced the bulbs today thinking that this may be the cause but nope same problem. I’ve tried the fuses and get the same problem.
Any ideas? I’ve already been pulled over for driving in the city with the brights on so what I’ve done for now is tilt them as far down as they will possibly go. This is a pain though because I drive down dark gravel roads on the weekends
.
For about a month now one of my head lights has not been working. The day lights work fine as well as the brights. I replaced the bulbs today thinking that this may be the cause but nope same problem. I’ve tried the fuses and get the same problem.
Any ideas? I’ve already been pulled over for driving in the city with the brights on so what I’ve done for now is tilt them as far down as they will possibly go. This is a pain though because I drive down dark gravel roads on the weekends
.
10-14-2005, 11:44 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by Wiking
I am not bright enough, need some daylight definitions... Maybe my helmet tilt is too big? I barely learned at school -highbeam- and -lowbeam-, now got info overflow, fuse blown.
10-15-2005, 03:38 AM
#7
First thing you should do is on the working headlight find which wire is the hot and check if you have potential on the terminal of the socket, and then check at the wire. If you are getting voltage at the wire and not the socket, you know there is a slight open where it should connect. If you get no voltage either way and want to be ghettofabulous about it until you get a new switch, just run a wire from the working headlight to the on that's inopt and that should solve it (put a fuse on the run wire to be safe) because they are probably on the same circuit anyway.
10-15-2005, 01:47 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
First thing you should do is on the working headlight find which wire is the hot and check if you have potential on the terminal of the socket, and then check at the wire. If you are getting voltage at the wire and not the socket, you know there is a slight open where it should connect. If you get no voltage either way and want to be ghettofabulous about it until you get a new switch, just run a wire from the working headlight to the on that's inopt and that should solve it (put a fuse on the run wire to be safe) because they are probably on the same circuit anyway.
I'll let you guys know If I start a fire.
10-15-2005, 02:24 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Hemphire
Well I'm going to have to try this. The only place around here that has the fuses and relays are @ stealership and I can't get there during reg business hours till next saturday.
I'll let you guys know If I start a fire.
I'll let you guys know If I start a fire.
I urge you not to jump a wire over to the headlight
you are going to cause more problems by doing this......Usually the problem lies in the contacts of the headlight switch....You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper......
Fold the sandpaper over to make it double sided so you can scrape the crap off both sides of the contacts...Be careful not to bend the copper contact up when you put the sandpaper under them....
10-15-2005, 02:41 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I urge you not to jump a wire over to the headlight you are going to cause more problems by doing this......
Usually the problem lies in the contacts of the headlight switch....You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper......
Fold the sandpaper over to make it double sided so you can scrape the crap off both sides of the contacts...Be careful not to bend the copper contact up when you put the sandpaper under them....
you are going to cause more problems by doing this......Usually the problem lies in the contacts of the headlight switch....You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper......
Fold the sandpaper over to make it double sided so you can scrape the crap off both sides of the contacts...Be careful not to bend the copper contact up when you put the sandpaper under them....
10-15-2005, 04:07 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
It is located on the steering column.....Take the plastic cover off the steering column and then remove the two screws,wiring harness....Take off the plastic cover,viola! 
10-15-2005, 04:12 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Hemphire
sweet i'll do that. I'm sure this must be right because sometimes the brights wont go on unless i turn them on and off a few times.
Yup....That is a classic sign that the contacts are dirty........
10-16-2005, 03:44 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Yup....That is a classic sign that the contacts are dirty........
After the depicted cleanup, add relays, get 'everlasting sw', bright lights.
See http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/11
10-16-2005, 11:34 AM
#15
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One other thing ... you are in Manitoba, Canada. That means that your car has the daytime running light system. I don't think that this was part of the American package until much later.
There is a unit UNDER the steering column that controls the DRL. It has 2 relays, and after 15 years or so they burn out. My car had the exact same problem that your car has. Replace the box ($120CDN from Nissan), and you're on your way...
There is a unit UNDER the steering column that controls the DRL. It has 2 relays, and after 15 years or so they burn out. My car had the exact same problem that your car has. Replace the box ($120CDN from Nissan), and you're on your way...
10-17-2005, 09:52 AM
#16
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I think RyderMax is onto something. I recently had to replace the DRL unit under the dash (to the left of the steering column, but right of the fuse box) and it solved my headlight issues.
However...., only my driver's side headlight when out with the headlights on. With the DRL's on, both headlights would work for about 2 minutes, then go off for 1 minute, then repeat that cycle. I noticed this pattern after sitting behind a van at a traffic light for several minutes.
The DRL module is simple to locate and replace, and if you can get one from a wrecker it should cost under $20.
However...., only my driver's side headlight when out with the headlights on. With the DRL's on, both headlights would work for about 2 minutes, then go off for 1 minute, then repeat that cycle. I noticed this pattern after sitting behind a van at a traffic light for several minutes.
The DRL module is simple to locate and replace, and if you can get one from a wrecker it should cost under $20.
10-17-2005, 03:34 PM
#17
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Well MyGreenMax94 had it right. I cleaned all the contact and voila we have lights 
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
10-17-2005, 03:40 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Hemphire
Well MyGreenMax94 had it right. I cleaned all the contact and voila we have lights
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
I'm glad i could help.......
10-18-2005, 01:06 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by Hemphire
I have a funny feeling this may of happend ...
Only way not to return tHere, is new sw -or- add relays to handle the load & arching - as already explained.
Dash lights off is an indicator: smtg amiss (=rear lights out)
10-18-2005, 04:46 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Wiking
I told u so. Wont last, cleanin is only bandaid, 'surgery succesful, patient died'.
Only way not to return tHere, is new sw -or- add relays to handle the load & arching - as already explained.
Dash lights off is an indicator: smtg amiss (=rear lights out)
Only way not to return tHere, is new sw -or- add relays to handle the load & arching - as already explained.
Dash lights off is an indicator: smtg amiss (=rear lights out)
10-18-2005, 04:52 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Hemphire
Yea I know. This weekend I'm going to fab a plastic airtight cover for it to keep the dirt out. Not sure how to do the relay on the part though.
I don't think the problem is dirt intrusion....All contacts made like them get crusties crap on them.....Bad design.....
10-18-2005, 05:57 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I don't think the problem is dirt intrusion....All contacts made like them get crusties crap on them.....Bad design.....
Relay makers 'live' nearer the contact bits: their bread depends how relays last, how much current it can control. Thereby relay contacts 'never' burn like the cheap switches (yes they do, but).
I use relays rated for 40A - one lamp draws about 8A. (100W = 12V x 8A) I suppose heres some margin for lifetime...
10-26-2005, 01:37 PM
#25
Originally Posted by kling's maxima
I need to figure out where this is, can someone post (or email me a picture of this) daylight lamp module and where exactly it is/looks like?
thanks.
-andrew
thanks.
-andrew
The daytime light control unit is to the left of the steering wheel...
10-28-2005, 04:39 AM
#27
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Well even after cleaning the switch a week later the same headlight is blinking. I'm picking up a combo switch at Teamauto in Winnipeg tommorow. They just got in 2 GXE's and 3 SE's this week. I just hope there not totaly striped by the time I get there
10-28-2005, 04:50 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Hemphire
Well even after cleaning the switch a week later the same headlight is blinking. I'm picking up a combo switch at Teamauto in Winnipeg tommorow. They just got in 2 GXE's and 3 SE's this week. I just hope there not totaly striped by the time I get there
Mine has been working fine for over a year now...
...My cleaning skills>yours...
j/kWhen you go to the yard try to get the one with the lowest miles on it....
10-29-2005, 11:04 PM
#29
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 417
.. i think it's cheaper to just set up the headlights behind a relay and switch both lights with the current from the working headlight output wire. then u won't have to rip open anything and upgrade with fatter wires at the same time
10-29-2005, 11:04 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Harvs94max
if you need that combo switch i have one i wouldnt charge you just pay shipping
thanks a lot!
-andrew
11-26-2005, 01:05 PM
#32
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Posts: 41
Can anybody help me out with this? I cleaned the contacts on the headlight turn signal switch and the low beam on passanger side still doesn't work. There is no voltage to that light. Is there anything else I can check? Is the switch bad?
11-26-2005, 02:15 PM
#33
Originally Posted by the2ndrunner
Can anybody help me out with this? I cleaned the contacts on the headlight turn signal switch and the low beam on passanger side still doesn't work. There is no voltage to that light. Is there anything else I can check? Is the switch bad?
If the cleaning fix did not help it then yes i would replace the switch...
12-01-2005, 02:56 PM
#36
Originally Posted by the2ndrunner
I can't find a turnsignal switch anywhere. Does anyone know of a site where I could buy one?
04-30-2006, 02:51 PM
#39
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Posts: 57
How can I take off the plastic cover under the stering wheel? I saw there are 4 screws. I take them out. But my plastic cover is still not coming out. Are there anything else that I need to do? My head light is also acting funny. It does not work if I put it on high beam.
04-30-2006, 03:02 PM
#40
Originally Posted by Suya
How can I take off the plastic cover under the stering wheel? I saw there are 4 screws. I take them out. But my plastic cover is still not coming out. Are there anything else that I need to do? My head light is also acting funny. It does not work if I put it on high beam.
There are 5 screws..
