3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
Hey guys looking for some advice.
For about a month now one of my head lights has not been working. The day lights work fine as well as the brights. I replaced the bulbs today thinking that this may be the cause but nope same problem. I’ve tried the fuses and get the same problem.
Any ideas? I’ve already been pulled over for driving in the city with the brights on so what I’ve done for now is tilt them as far down as they will possibly go. This is a pain though because I drive down dark gravel roads on the weekends
.
I am not bright enough, need some daylight definitions... Maybe my helmet tilt is too big? I barely learned at school -highbeam- and -lowbeam-, now got info overflow, fuse blown.
I am not bright enough, need some daylight definitions... Maybe my helmet tilt is too big? I barely learned at school -highbeam- and -lowbeam-, now got info overflow, fuse blown.
Well I guess instead of just moving fuses around I'll just get some new ones and try that. Then I'll try the signal switch. (I'll have to figure that one out) Thanks guys.
First thing you should do is on the working headlight find which wire is the hot and check if you have potential on the terminal of the socket, and then check at the wire. If you are getting voltage at the wire and not the socket, you know there is a slight open where it should connect. If you get no voltage either way and want to be ghettofabulous about it until you get a new switch, just run a wire from the working headlight to the on that's inopt and that should solve it (put a fuse on the run wire to be safe) because they are probably on the same circuit anyway.
First thing you should do is on the working headlight find which wire is the hot and check if you have potential on the terminal of the socket, and then check at the wire. If you are getting voltage at the wire and not the socket, you know there is a slight open where it should connect. If you get no voltage either way and want to be ghettofabulous about it until you get a new switch, just run a wire from the working headlight to the on that's inopt and that should solve it (put a fuse on the run wire to be safe) because they are probably on the same circuit anyway.
Well I'm going to have to try this. The only place around here that has the fuses and relays are @ stealership and I can't get there during reg business hours till next saturday.
I'll let you guys know If I start a fire.
Well I'm going to have to try this. The only place around here that has the fuses and relays are @ stealership and I can't get there during reg business hours till next saturday.
I'll let you guys know If I start a fire.
I urge you not to jump a wire over to the headlight you are going to cause more problems by doing this......
Usually the problem lies in the contacts of the headlight switch....You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper......
Fold the sandpaper over to make it double sided so you can scrape the crap off both sides of the contacts...Be careful not to bend the copper contact up when you put the sandpaper under them....
I urge you not to jump a wire over to the headlight you are going to cause more problems by doing this......
Usually the problem lies in the contacts of the headlight switch....You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper......
Fold the sandpaper over to make it double sided so you can scrape the crap off both sides of the contacts...Be careful not to bend the copper contact up when you put the sandpaper under them....
It is located on the steering column.....Take the plastic cover off the steering column and then remove the two screws,wiring harness....Take off the plastic cover,viola!
It is located on the steering column.....Take the plastic cover off the steering column and then remove the two screws,wiring harness....Take off the plastic cover,viola!
sweet i'll do that. I'm sure this must be right because sometimes the brights wont go on unless i turn them on and off a few times.
One other thing ... you are in Manitoba, Canada. That means that your car has the daytime running light system. I don't think that this was part of the American package until much later.
There is a unit UNDER the steering column that controls the DRL. It has 2 relays, and after 15 years or so they burn out. My car had the exact same problem that your car has. Replace the box ($120CDN from Nissan), and you're on your way...
I think RyderMax is onto something. I recently had to replace the DRL unit under the dash (to the left of the steering column, but right of the fuse box) and it solved my headlight issues.
However...., only my driver's side headlight when out with the headlights on. With the DRL's on, both headlights would work for about 2 minutes, then go off for 1 minute, then repeat that cycle. I noticed this pattern after sitting behind a van at a traffic light for several minutes.
The DRL module is simple to locate and replace, and if you can get one from a wrecker it should cost under $20.
Well MyGreenMax94 had it right. I cleaned all the contact and voila we have lights
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
Well MyGreenMax94 had it right. I cleaned all the contact and voila we have lights
I accedently bent one of the contacts. That was a B17ch to bend back into place. I did this all @ my inlaws place. When I was leaving there I noticed I screwedup. My dash lights where no longer working. No problem I thought I'll just use my map light when I get to the city I thought. Well no problem. But when I was on my way to work this morning I was pulled over by the WPS for not having any tail lights
All fixed now though.
Thanks for all the input guys I can probley say you may all of saved the life of myself my wife and my little boy.
My car had the same problem except it was the brights that would not work....
I'm glad i could help.......
I have a funny feeling this may of happend to the last owner of the car as well. My combo switch did not have a plastic cover on it to protect it from crap.
I don't think the problem is dirt intrusion....All contacts made like them get crusties crap on them.....Bad design.....
True. I think its mostly production price question, and buyer cannot see any difference. Every bit that lasts over 5 yrs, is bad design (=too expensive) from manufacturers point of view. (Production: Ford fights in courts against one 50$ roof bracket which would save 2-8000ppl yearly in US, how many globally??? and - pays hundreds of millions for widows - but will not add that 50$ per vehicle. Idiots or savings Geniuses?)
Relay makers 'live' nearer the contact bits: their bread depends how relays last, how much current it can control. Thereby relay contacts 'never' burn like the cheap switches (yes they do, but).
I use relays rated for 40A - one lamp draws about 8A. (100W = 12V x 8A) I suppose heres some margin for lifetime...
I need to figure out where this is, can someone post (or email me a picture of this) daylight lamp module and where exactly it is/looks like?
thanks.
-andrew
I need to figure out where this is, can someone post (or email me a picture of this) daylight lamp module and where exactly it is/looks like?
thanks.
-andrew
The daytime light control unit is to the left of the steering wheel...
Well even after cleaning the switch a week later the same headlight is blinking. I'm picking up a combo switch at Teamauto in Winnipeg tommorow. They just got in 2 GXE's and 3 SE's this week. I just hope there not totaly striped by the time I get there
Well even after cleaning the switch a week later the same headlight is blinking. I'm picking up a combo switch at Teamauto in Winnipeg tommorow. They just got in 2 GXE's and 3 SE's this week. I just hope there not totaly striped by the time I get there
Mine has been working fine for over a year now......My cleaning skills>yours... j/k
When you go to the yard try to get the one with the lowest miles on it....
.. i think it's cheaper to just set up the headlights behind a relay and switch both lights with the current from the working headlight output wire. then u won't have to rip open anything and upgrade with fatter wires at the same time
__________________
a.k.a MaxNub91 - Black 91 GXE Auto wsp Y-pipe, hai, fstb, SS dual tip muffler, JVC KD-S890 deck, JL Audio evolution 6*9 rear spks, Pioneer 4*6 frnt spks, advanced timing, raulturbo tuned ECU, NGK plug wires, and more..
Can anybody help me out with this? I cleaned the contacts on the headlight turn signal switch and the low beam on passanger side still doesn't work. There is no voltage to that light. Is there anything else I can check? Is the switch bad?
Can anybody help me out with this? I cleaned the contacts on the headlight turn signal switch and the low beam on passanger side still doesn't work. There is no voltage to that light. Is there anything else I can check? Is the switch bad?
If the cleaning fix did not help it then yes i would replace the switch...
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
How can I take off the plastic cover under the stering wheel? I saw there are 4 screws. I take them out. But my plastic cover is still not coming out. Are there anything else that I need to do? My head light is also acting funny. It does not work if I put it on high beam.
How can I take off the plastic cover under the stering wheel? I saw there are 4 screws. I take them out. But my plastic cover is still not coming out. Are there anything else that I need to do? My head light is also acting funny. It does not work if I put it on high beam.
you are going to cause more problems by doing this......
...My cleaning skills>yours...
j/k
Linear Mode
