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I've got the same issue with both my headlights nonworking. Its a US speck and the daytime light control unit is not on mine (I'm guessing this is only a Can thing), does anyone have any advice as were to look?
... and make sure you never wired the 12v signal wire directly to the ground wire, it SUCKS when you do that. ummm not that I'd know per say, I just heard that, ya thats it, just heard it.
I bought me some TV tuner cleaner spray at Radio shack and used it on the sw contacts to avoid messing around with the contacts with sandpaper. It worked.
The problem was fixed by cleaning the combo switch very well. First I cleaned it. It fixed some problem but created new problem. That is both head light was working fine. But it knocked out my brack lights on back. I was wondering what happened. Few weeks later, I cleaned the switch again very well. The problem was solved. Now all my lights are working properly.
ahh thanks, i was just getting rdy to start a post on this but obviously now i can fix it pretty easy i have another 90se sittin in the garage.. thanks
You need to take the switch out and clean the contacts with sand paper
I used a dollar to clean mine out and it worked just fine, saw all this black grud come out after we cleaned it.
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Mods
SE White Gauges w/ Blue LED's, Custom Air Intake ,Vibrant Performance Exhaust, Strut Bar, Euro Headlights, Kenwood H/U with iPod adapter, Two 4" Treo's, Two 6x9 Pioneer's, Two 12" Kicker Subs, 1 Farad Capacitor Cardomain Site
Well on my maxima 91, it doesn't have a daytime light control unit to scratch off the copper lines, it only has a theft control unit, so I'm usure where to fix the headlight situation. It's the same exact problem the first poster had however I don't know where to fix it now. Could someone help. Thanx
Well on my maxima 91, it doesn't have a daytime light control unit to scratch off the copper lines, it only has a theft control unit, so I'm usure where to fix the headlight situation. It's the same exact problem the first poster had however I don't know where to fix it now. Could someone help. Thanx
The copper lines are with the headlight switch in the steering column, just take off the plastic covers and unscrew the switch and the lines are in the switch.
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Mods
SE White Gauges w/ Blue LED's, Custom Air Intake ,Vibrant Performance Exhaust, Strut Bar, Euro Headlights, Kenwood H/U with iPod adapter, Two 4" Treo's, Two 6x9 Pioneer's, Two 12" Kicker Subs, 1 Farad Capacitor Cardomain Site
The copper lines are with the headlight switch in the steering column, just take off the plastic covers and unscrew the switch and the lines are in the switch.
Thanks, didn't seem to do the job. I cleaned the contacts and it still does the same thing. My brights work, and the lights on the side of the headlights, but the headlights themselves don't work at all.
Thanks, didn't seem to do the job. I cleaned the contacts and it still does the same thing. My brights work, and the lights on the side of the headlights, but the headlights themselves don't work at all.
Well this fix is not an absolute,sometimes the contacts are just too far gone..
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Guys, I seem to have a bad combo switch as well, except my problem seems to go a bit further. One of the contacts at the point where the harness plugs in is fried, plastic melted, all that good stuff. Well, the harness on the steering column is the same way. I'm wondering if I replace the switch with a new one, will the harness plug cause the same thing to happen. And if so, is there any way to replace that harness plug or that section of wiring under the steering column. Thanks in advance.
thats what i figured...already went to the junkyard pick n pull to get a new harness, since nissan wanted about 1100 for the entire dash harness assembly. Any idea what caused it to burn up in the first place? I'm wondering if arcing at the contacts that were mentioned earlier in the thread, the ones that you guys were cleaning, would cause the overheating/burning at the harness plug. Any ideas on preventing my new switch from exploding?
if the contacts were dirty they pulled more amperage to complete the circuit. That increased amperage caused the melting.
or that is my theory at least.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Thanks, just did a voltage check, found out I'm not getting th 1.7v (I'm guessing becasue the others are getting this) on the low beams. Any suggestions?
I went to the junk yard, got two switches and seems like the same problem. However, I was using a volt meter prior to (battery still connected) and now my parking lights don't work (maybe blown something) the only thing that works is my indicator and my brights, could this be a harness problem?
ok I'm completely lost, I've start at the bulb and the left showed 13v and the right 12.8v , however the only light working is the left and on its brights.
Alright, I've had the same problem where my fog lights and high beams have worked, but my low beams quit. My dad took out the switch and cleaned the contacts. My low beams worked but the fog lights didn't. He put everything back together and we were back where we started, no low beams. What should we do next? I need them to work for classes Monday night.
Alright, I've had the same problem where my fog lights and high beams have worked, but my low beams quit. My dad took out the switch and cleaned the contacts. My low beams worked but the fog lights didn't. He put everything back together and we were back where we started, no low beams. What should we do next? I need them to work for classes Monday night.
I'm not sure, I got 2 switches from the junk yard, and no dice. I used a multimeter on the headlight connection and get 12.55 on the right (not working for both brights and lowbeam) and 13.05 on the left (which only gets a highbeam) its a three prong connection, so one of them is a ground and the other two are hot, (I'm assuming)
hypothetically you should be able to MAKE SURE ITS the SWITCH by placing a wire connecting the two connection points at the switch to give it continuity, however I'm getting nada. I checked the theft warning relay, no dice, I checked the 'bulb checking relay' whatever this is, nothing ( I just leave the lights on and pull them out to see if this effects them), so now what do I do?
ok ima jump in here and try making this alil more clearly understood.
Basic Electrical
if you do a voltage test with your multi meter and find that without the bulb in line to complete the circuit that you have full battery voltage then when you add the bulb in the line to complete the series parallel circuit. You have a short to ground somewhere in the line of the electrical line. Get a electrical schematic of your car's headlight, park lights, and brake lights and find all things related to those wires connected to the light bulbs and run down line starting at the light bulb and going back to each and every connector checking if there is a voltage drop there or if the voltage is present. If you come across a point where when you have the headlight bulb in line to complete the circuit and find that at the point you are checking has voltage present but after that point you have no voltage. Then you have come to find the problem of the lighting circuit. An easy way to find out when you find voltage at one point but none beyond that point is feel for heat since in theory that is what is consuming all your voltage. could be a connector, or a splice, or even a control module or switch.
Basic electrical and how much can be understood by learning about it in college
My dad replaced the turn signal switch and I still have the same problem: only my high beams and side marker lights work. My fog lights and low beams won't. What do we check next?
If you put a new switch in, you're left with the less than easy or fun job of running through the electrical system between the switch and the lights to figure out where the break is. Could be a loose connection, broken wire, broken/fried component, harnesses, or bulbs.
I thought it could be the bulbs, but I put new ones in about a year ago. My dad checked and they weren't burnt and the filiments were still connected. One thing I forgot to mention was that when they were working, they would sometimes brighten and dim. To my dad trying to figure out wiring is like trying to figure out a plate of spaghetti; I think I might have to take into a shop.
I thought it could be the bulbs, but I put new ones in about a year ago. My dad checked and they weren't burnt and the filiments were still connected. One thing I forgot to mention was that when they were working, they would sometimes brighten and dim. To my dad trying to figure out wiring is like trying to figure out a plate of spaghetti; I think I might have to take into a shop.
Tell us what you come up with because I'm still confused with this aswell. I also tried to cross the wires near the bulb thinking that this would at least give me low beams instead of highs, blew out both my bulbs had to get new ones. Now I'm back to square one.
Got it fixed finally.
I'm not sure what did it, but when I crossed my wires it blew both bulbs, boght another set, this time I went after the cheaper (non-lighting blue type) and what do you know, it works fine...
Dude check the plug and make sure it's not rusted out. Iv'e had that happen to at least four of my Maximas. If it is go to the jy and get a plug and spice it right in. I did it so no brains are needed for the procedure. If it happens you need a dlc i usually have them in parts bin.
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