GXEMAX

Was wondering if strut replacement can be done in the driveway, or do the springs have to be compressed? I know some cars can be done without springs being compressed....

aw89maxSE

iTrader: (3)

we used like the big spring clamps from like an auto parts store to compress the springs. I guess that's the easist thing....

GXEMAX

So I could replace them myself and then take it in for alignment.....good, saves money on labor.....THANKS!!!!

ArcticDC5

So do you need an impact wrench to get the top nut off the shocks?

How tough is it to get the rear shocks off?

aw89maxSE

iTrader: (3)

Nope

Michael

iTrader: (21)

just a note to anyone that is thinking of changing struts but have never done it before

PLEASE do not take the nut off the strut without using a spring compressor on the springs. The ones they loan you at autozone are good (strut spring compressors not just regular spring compressors) and will be fine. you will hurt yourself bad if you do not compress the spring before taking them apart.

go here and read

ArcticDC5

Yeah, I know about the spring compressor before you dissassemble the strut assembly. That rear looks like a real pain to replace. Guess I'll wait until spring to do mine.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

well I wasnt talking to you directly. I really meant it for the guy that posted the original message asking if he can do it. He may or may not have known the correct procedure and I just dont want anyone to get hurt. Those are good instructions for him or anyone for that matter.

Wiking

The job is easy in maxima, back and especially front strut: Three nuts under hood, two bolts and the assy is off. All four: 2hours per shock with my skills...

The adjustment u can do uself also.

Wheel alignment
DIY alignment, fast&free, picked from some website:
- Two straight plates. One touching the RH wheel outside, the other touching LH outside - on even floor [I use wheel size glass panels for their straightness].
- Two measuring tapes crosswise under the car; one front of wheels, second behind the wheels
- Tape ends under RH the plate bottom edge running under LH plates.
- Read the toe in measurement on the tapes passing under LH plate edges. Accurate reading is seen just under the plate edge. (Verify first that your measurement tapes are equal)

Laly

iTrader: (1)

yeah man, you can do the job yourself. even if you have never done suspenions before, its pretty much common sense. its also a good learning experience. you will feel better about doing it your self after you see how easy it is. you will also feel better about saving money. good luck. here is a hint, make sure you loosen the 3 bolts that hold the strut on top last. having those tight will help you loosen the 2 bolts on the bottom.

joshua

maximapitko

another tip(for the back ones)...The three bolts behind the back seat are not symetrical. Before you remove the strut make sure which one goes in which hole. When you are putting the whole strut assembly back togather pay attention and make sure the bolts face the right direction on top before trying to install it back on the car. This will save you time and nerves...It's easy

lalo

Is it possible you can post or PM me the web site you found this in, I would like to try it. I thought you had to do it with special equipment and pc. Would be a great thing to learn.

Tarzan

A few suggestions to the DIYers who replace their struts the first time:
0) Rent a compression tool, which is in GOOD SHAPE. If you rent an abused one, you will spend most time and effort on bolting them on, compressing and bolting off. Do not ask me how I figured that out.
1) Have a breaker bar. I had like a 19-20" breaker bar which made my job EASY. Also before you start, make sure you have 15mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets and the same set of wrenches. Some places require that you hold the cap and twist the nut or vice versa.
2) Clean the entire strut assembly from dirt and dust as soon as you remove a wheel and put contrast spots of spray paint on the spring and strut mount at the top. This applies if you are not replacing the strut mounts.
3) If you do not have a vise to remove the gland seal caps (tops) from the rear struts, then bolt a wheel back onto the hub of the strut you are working with and get someone to stand on the wheel, while twisting the caps. Just loosen the caps that way, but do not remove. Once they are broken free, unbolt the strut from the wheel and remove the cap holding the strut upright to not to spill oil. You will need a great deal of that oil for your new cartriges, so save it in a clean can.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I always put one of the nuts back on the stud that is closest to the other strut. (picked up that trick from Jeffy).

Pyrophilus

My first mechanical job that I did my own (besides oil change) was strut replacement (even before brake pads).

I bought a set of spring compressors (look like the ones you rent from autozone). Although I did post a picture of them here months ago and I think wiking called them "death traps". Anyway, the "death trap" brands work okay as long as you do not improvise.

One rule while doing anything, if you don't have the tool, or the tool you have is inadequate, DO NOT COMPROMISE or IMPROVISE. If not, then this is where one starts to lose digits, ears, and eyes... The engineer for my lab was trying to do his struts on his volvo with autozone rented compressors and he didn't use the safety hooks and the coil spring did a "slinky" thing making both compressors slide to one side. It cut hit thumb down to bone and he almost lost a digit... Becareful!

Anyway, a good set of socket wrench (if you can't buy snap-on, get craftsman, like I did), and a 1.5 or 2 ft iron pipe to use as a breaker bar.
If you can't afford a good one, get one of them "needle" torque wrenches (the one with needle that shows on chart what torque is). You should torque everything back to specs. If the car wasn't touched before, liberal spray of liquid wrench on the lower knuckle-to-strut nuts might do good (the trut tower nuts are usually not seized).

The three strut mount-to-tower nuts and the two knuckle-to-strut nuts should be replaced. They cost cents from local nissan dealer.

The job was so easy (I said easy, not short. It took most of 1 whole day from morning to evening the first time) that I ended up doing the front struts on my mother's 00' I30t (by myself in about 4 hours), friend's '97 Civic (front and rear with two people in about 5 hours).

I used the savings in not paying for labor and got a decent set (and I am comparing now to sears brands) of struts (KYB GR-2). I know some here really blasted them for being bad, but I so far LOVE them.

Anyway good luck and be safe. Read directions over and over again so you don't forget an important step (and end up losing limbs, or anything else you treasure). Most of all, probably best to have someone help you.

Wiking

Did I? Well, if u still alive [are u really u?] I have to humbly ask u to forgive me... I have had one [improvised] strut projectile on my garage wall, dont want that to hit any body. After that bazooka I went to loocal shop and bought gooood compressors.

My improvisation was jacking one corner up [other corner spring now compressed] and then adding improvised steel hooks. Do not do this (at least with improwised steelhooks), as they will sometimes slip... its better to be alive -poor- and have the real ones with the doublehooks than -rich- dead.

Wiking

Its easier to take pics of my improvisation and post it here that to try and seek that one. They actually had special steel plates. Maybe (taking pics) of it is todays job?

Lasers are nice and accurate, but the basic thing is to get wheels in angle: can be done even with vacuum cleaner pipe. Did this once, then went to this fancy 4w laser adjustment: exact, no need of adjustment! After that I have always aligned with a sliding stick, measuring tire inner sides for rear 1mm gap (or whatever is suggested for that vehicle).

The end result will be poor driving and tire wear if alignment is not ok.

Btw. U should move the car a little bit back/forth after adjustment, then measure again.

Pyrophilus

No need for apologies. I didn't say that you were wrong. I was trying to say that you are absolutely correct. I use the "death trap" brand fine, but I am probably the most ****-retentive person I know of, so I follow, check, double-check, and triple check that I am doing things correctly. If I don't have the tool(s) or my tool is inadequate, I abort mission and come fight another day. I NEVER recommend to my friends that they should do the struts themselves. I love them too much to have them lose a digit or something.

chchmax

Theres a really good write up on replacing your suspension at

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/suspens...h_tokico.shtml

Should make life easier!

Michael

iTrader: (21)

Oh you mean the one I linked in my post above LOL

hehe I do agree it will make live easier and the reason I posted it as well.

ArcticDC5

After reading the instructions for the rear? I have to pour the old oil out and put them into the new shocks? Am I correct on this?

Pyrophilus

I'd try the fronts first (don't even buy the parts for the rear before you finish the fronts, unless you get discounts by buying in bulk).

The rears are tricky. The "nut" that has the gland packing is impossible to remove. Torching it helps bit, but you will need a big-a$$ wrench to losen that, and a darn good bench vise to hold the rear strut. I guess one can try to losen it while the strut is still on the car, but I am not sure what that may do no rear alignment...

The fronts are really easy. Bench vise is great, but not necessary. You do need a really decent spring compression tool. This is kinda like the one I used (not same brand, but identical looking).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...526111667&rd=1

I'd stay away from something like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...356137878&rd=1
because they have no hardware to "hold" the clamps to the springs. These compressors can potentially "slide" to one side (making both compressors end up on one side of spring and making the other side of the spring "spring out").

If I do not trade in my 01 Pathfinder for a 05, I am probably going to get this kind to do the struts on the 01.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...357047634&rd=1

The 4dsc article is pretty good. Just remember that the compressed spring can "pop" out of the compressors and then it will fly with enough force to break your skull. Be respectful.

If you need a detailed walkthrough, I can probably write that (did 3rd gen front struts about 3 times). I suggest that you get either the service manual (which is great) or at least a haynes manual for the 3rd gen, so at least know how everything is supposed to be oriented...

ArcticDC5

I already got ripped off on the front struts when I was on my way to get my oil changed. The front strut seized up and had no options at the moment. I was sold 2 Monroe Sensatrack struts and installed they are $400, !@#^*!@#%^*. So no more of that. Putting KYBs on the rear since they are the originals more than likely. I have also been asking around the org for someone to help me install them from around the area.

ArcticDC5

Off topic, please get an '05 pathfinder! I love the new design although the only 2 SUVs I would every buy would be the Escalade or Pathfinder.

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43753

These are sweet, next time I have to swap springs I might just buy it. But the autozone ones work fine as long as you use the safety "studs".

Tarzan

Well, depends. Are you are replacing the original struts with the cartriges or cartriges with other cartriges?

If yours are still original, then they are just the rods with pistons and valves sunken in oil. You will remove the rods. When you will be putting the cartriges in for the very first time, you should save oil that was originally in the struts and pour some of it back into the struts. When you insert a cartrige, the strut should be full to the top so that heat from inside the cartrige would dissipate.

I used a large plastic container to collect oil. There is about a pint there if I am not mistaken, so get something large enough for 2+ pints.

Oh, and I was wrong when I said my breaker bar was 20", it was about 25" as a matter of fact.