2" drop on shifter
#1
#2
to make it a true short shifter you really need to put in some metal on the bottom of the shifter (between the ball and the mounting point for the shift linkage). this is basically what the sts setups are doing by moving the ball higher.
#3
Ahhh, see......, that's why I didn't call it a short-shifter.
My goal was to get rid of the original truck-like look. I also didn't want to simply cut the top threaded portion off (like I did on my silver car) cause I prefer the screw-on shifters vs. the ones with 3 little set screws - they never seem to hang-on very long and when you tighten them, they eventually strip (at least mine did?).
Anyways, I know what mean, and I was lying under the car for a good hour just playing around with the mechanism, trying to figure out the safest, easiest, most cost effective way to make it a true short-shifter. I was thinking of adding 1/2" of metal between the two cylinders (1 horizontal, 1 vertical) at the transmission end of the large shift rod that runs under the car. That way I could quickly and easily swap it out if it didn't work, or I found I needed more or less material to make it work properly (vs. the actual shifter - that wasn't quick at all....). If you're really familiar with the underside of the car, you'll know the area I'm referring to - if not, the Haynes manual shows a nice break-out of the shifter components.
Let me know whether you think adding a small amount of material to this area with in fact cause the car to 'short-shift'. Thanks.
My goal was to get rid of the original truck-like look. I also didn't want to simply cut the top threaded portion off (like I did on my silver car) cause I prefer the screw-on shifters vs. the ones with 3 little set screws - they never seem to hang-on very long and when you tighten them, they eventually strip (at least mine did?).
Anyways, I know what mean, and I was lying under the car for a good hour just playing around with the mechanism, trying to figure out the safest, easiest, most cost effective way to make it a true short-shifter. I was thinking of adding 1/2" of metal between the two cylinders (1 horizontal, 1 vertical) at the transmission end of the large shift rod that runs under the car. That way I could quickly and easily swap it out if it didn't work, or I found I needed more or less material to make it work properly (vs. the actual shifter - that wasn't quick at all....). If you're really familiar with the underside of the car, you'll know the area I'm referring to - if not, the Haynes manual shows a nice break-out of the shifter components.
Let me know whether you think adding a small amount of material to this area with in fact cause the car to 'short-shift'. Thanks.
#4
I would think adding metal to the linkage (if I'm understanding you correctly) wouldn't actually make the shift any shorter. I think it would actually just move your shifter a bit further forward in the car. Basically to get a shorter throw you need to have a longer throw on the bottom of the shifter. I don't believe chaning the linkage itself would gain you anything.
#5
Gotcha. Then I'll probably do that later. Except this time I'll get a shifter from a wreck, lower it 1.25" (or so...) and add the same amount to the bottom - under the ball - as you suggested. For some weird reason, what you're saying makes absolute sense to me right now - buuuuuut when I was under the car earlier today, I couldn't see that solution. Weird....
Thanks for the input!
Oh......, and true short-shifter or not, I still like the look and feel of the shorter stick much better.
Thanks for the input!
Oh......, and true short-shifter or not, I still like the look and feel of the shorter stick much better.
#7
Just out of curiosity, because the shifter works on leverage and angles are very important..........., if you were going to add length to the bottom of your shifter, how much would you add? I'm almost thinking 1" should be more than enough?
#8
That seems like it would work. I'm trying to remember how the Pacesetter was. I bet 1 inch is pretty close to the amount that is added on the Pacesetter so that should work pretty well.
Anyone else want to chime in with their ideas??
Anyone else want to chime in with their ideas??
#15
i think he may be wondering why the plastic looks partially painted or maybe in the process of being sanded (all the custom stuff which by the way looks pretty cool)...
what did you use to make the custom center piece?
what did you use to make the custom center piece?
#16
IIRC Matt93SE and maybe some others moved the ball on the shifter up to make the shifter shorter. I was just wondering if that ball is fixed, and if so, I might just go ahead and get a Pacesetter...
What other STS's are out there for our cars?
What other STS's are out there for our cars?
#17
I figured that's what he was referring to - just wanted to be clear.
The trim peice that goes around the radio, storage bin and HVAC controls has been modified in order to remove the 4-way flasher and center the HVAC controls with radio and storage bin (they're not centered stock).
I wanted the peice to appear virtually stock when it was completed, so I actually used 3 stock trim peices - cut out the beveled plastic ring that goes around the HVAC controls and then spaced them 1.25" apart (vertically). This way all the openings have the exact same dimension, and also have the same bevelled edges. I filled the gaps in the newly created peice by using left-over plastic from other panels and melting them in, then used a 2 part epoxy to bond the peices from behind. The finish that's on it right now is short-strand fiberglass filler (1st layer). This fills the melting marks and adds a little strength. After I figure-out how to position my radio and mark the holes in my new mounting bracket (this has proved to be the really tough part!), I will finish the peice and spray it with a 3M texture coat to make it (closely) match the original finish of the interior peices.
As for the shifter ball - it appears as though it's fixed on the shaft - permantly bonded? If Matt and others did move just the ball up, I'm not entirely sure how they did it? (I'd like to know tho.... As mtcookson said b4, I think the only way to effectively raise the ball is to lower the point which the shift rod attaches to the shift linkagage (I'll be doing that this weekend I hope). I believe the Pacesetter short shifter actually has an adjustable ball position?
The trim peice that goes around the radio, storage bin and HVAC controls has been modified in order to remove the 4-way flasher and center the HVAC controls with radio and storage bin (they're not centered stock).
I wanted the peice to appear virtually stock when it was completed, so I actually used 3 stock trim peices - cut out the beveled plastic ring that goes around the HVAC controls and then spaced them 1.25" apart (vertically). This way all the openings have the exact same dimension, and also have the same bevelled edges. I filled the gaps in the newly created peice by using left-over plastic from other panels and melting them in, then used a 2 part epoxy to bond the peices from behind. The finish that's on it right now is short-strand fiberglass filler (1st layer). This fills the melting marks and adds a little strength. After I figure-out how to position my radio and mark the holes in my new mounting bracket (this has proved to be the really tough part!), I will finish the peice and spray it with a 3M texture coat to make it (closely) match the original finish of the interior peices.
As for the shifter ball - it appears as though it's fixed on the shaft - permantly bonded? If Matt and others did move just the ball up, I'm not entirely sure how they did it? (I'd like to know tho.... As mtcookson said b4, I think the only way to effectively raise the ball is to lower the point which the shift rod attaches to the shift linkagage (I'll be doing that this weekend I hope). I believe the Pacesetter short shifter actually has an adjustable ball position?
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