How to put the pressure back into brake system?
#1
How to put the pressure back into brake system?
after draining out the fluids from the brake now i got no pressure at all. Test drive it, seem like the car doesn't have any brake at all. Can some1 help me out? thanks
#3
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Holy baloney man. Quit posting one question per thread!!! And before you post ANY more questions, read the stickies!!!!!!! The one with the chilton's online manual.
#4
You have to bleed them. Search on google. This topic is not exactly a minority.
(cars _need_ brakes, not springs, udp's, ypipes, etc.)
Not sure if this is true for the brakes, but it is for the clutch hydraulic system, but putting the cap on will shorten the number of itmes you have to bleed by increasing vacuum in the master cylinder. I only had to do it twice to have good pressure in my clutch after putting the cap back on.
Also, stay away from DOT5 brake fluid. There was a post on this not too long. You can find it without searching (just look at the threads posted in the first couple pages).
(cars _need_ brakes, not springs, udp's, ypipes, etc.)
Not sure if this is true for the brakes, but it is for the clutch hydraulic system, but putting the cap on will shorten the number of itmes you have to bleed by increasing vacuum in the master cylinder. I only had to do it twice to have good pressure in my clutch after putting the cap back on.
Also, stay away from DOT5 brake fluid. There was a post on this not too long. You can find it without searching (just look at the threads posted in the first couple pages).
#5
Originally Posted by Nj93Vi3tMax
after draining out the fluids from the brake now i got no pressure at all. Test drive it, seem like the car doesn't have any brake at all. Can some1 help me out? thanks
2. keep flushing, the fluids will not mix (bleed in the correct order?)
3. check for leaks
4. you need help..not us..don't get bent out of shape if we ask you to go back to your orig thread and post your problem so there's a history and people CAN help you and realize why you're losing pressure.
this forum is to help people...but you see anyone getting paid to sit here and answer your questions? we're not your Q&A bishes. you're the one at the car...you need to make the call. if you did the best u can and still can't get it then it might be time to seek professional help.
n00b drama
Dave - it was him that used DOT5...but he created a new thread.
#6
Originally Posted by Nj93Vi3tMax
after draining out the fluids from the brake now i got no pressure at all. Test drive it, seem like the car doesn't have any brake at all. Can some1 help me out? thanks
#7
Originally Posted by Nj93Vi3tMax
after draining out the fluids from the brake now i got no pressure at all. Test drive it, seem like the car doesn't have any brake at all. Can some1 help me out? thanks
When the system is flushed you'll need another person's help to get the air out (one "operate" the brake pedal and another lets air out).
If you don't know how to do it - bring you car to the shop. They will check your brakes for free and do the job.
Now the fun part. If your lines are rusted out too - make sure that you replace fuel line together with the brake ones. They might be fine at a time when you replace brake ones ... but it is imorssible not to move them while replacing brake lines. 100% that you high pressure fluel line will start to leak within next couple of month.
Just from my experience ...
#8
How did you get dot 5 in there if you don't know how to bleed your brakes? I won't be an **** if you won't be an idiot. Okay?http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH09_10.html
If you have problems understaning this, take to a shop. Because it's better to "waste" money on a shop than wasting your life/car when you improperly bleed your brakes.
If you have problems understaning this, take to a shop. Because it's better to "waste" money on a shop than wasting your life/car when you improperly bleed your brakes.
Originally Posted by Nj93Vi3tMax
i did read the manual but my friend told me to post on the org see if other people got a better opinion and better way to solve it b4 i bring it to the shop or waste more time. I'm jusk asking for help, isn't this forum for? If u dun want to help then step out of it. U dun have to be an a$$ about it. I know you a moderator, so wat? Its not like i really care. Thanks for your help anyways, promise you i won't post any more on the org. This org sux cuz it got some people like you. thanks
#10
can't we all just get along? (sorry, couldn't resist)
Seriously, though, pretty lame for the guy to cop an attitude right off the bat. It should be in the noob manual that rule #1 is - Search. rule # 2- repeat rule # 1. Then, post your question...
Seriously, though, pretty lame for the guy to cop an attitude right off the bat. It should be in the noob manual that rule #1 is - Search. rule # 2- repeat rule # 1. Then, post your question...
#12
Its good that u know a lot of experience but others may not (including myself). All i did was asking people on the org to help me out. Its ok if u dun wana help, just dun talk sh$t. If i know how, then i wouldn't ask u guys. The search function can't do sh$t, I would never get the answer i wanted it. nOT only happened to me, but also happened to other new members. The moderator think they're so kool. Instead of helping, they're talking **** or acting rude to others. Like i said to Jeff, i will never post anything on the org. And this org sux cuz it got people like him.
#13
Originally Posted by internetautomar
only 1. problem with that currently.
NO SEARCHING AVAILABLE
NO SEARCHING AVAILABLE
Therefore I blame slow/busy server problems on you
#14
Bleeding Procedure
BLEEDING PROCEDURE
Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder reservoir caps. Remove the caps and fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean, fresh brake fluid meeting dot 3 specifications.
NOTE: Brake fluid picks up moisture from the air, which reduces its effectiveness and causes brake line corrosion. Don't leave the master cylinder or the fluid container open any longer than necessary. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on painted surfaces. Wipe up any spilled fluid immediately and rinse the area with clear water.
Clean all the bleeder screws. You may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent to loosen it. Seizure is a common problem with bleeder screws, which then break off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part to which they are attached.
Attach a length of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw on the left rear wheel cylinder or caliper. Insert the other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar 1⁄2 filled with brake fluid.
Have your helper slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder (follow the correct bleeding order) screw 1⁄3 1⁄2 of a turn, and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the end of its travel. Have your assistant slowly release the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the expelled fluid.
Repeat the procedure on the other wheels in the following order:
Right front caliper
Right rear wheel cylinder or caliper
Left front caliper
Be sure to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs often. Do not allow the reservoirs to run dry or the bleeding process will have to be repeated.
for more details (pics) visit http://e-toolbox.com/ads/rq.cfm
FYI, this link is taken from section "General Maintenance Reference Links" - there is no need to search, but a need to look around like I did ... hope this helps.
BTW, people here are not rude but just tired of maintaince questions (simple questions). but still ... you are right - if question is not answered there is no need to write ... well, anything at all
Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder reservoir caps. Remove the caps and fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean, fresh brake fluid meeting dot 3 specifications.
NOTE: Brake fluid picks up moisture from the air, which reduces its effectiveness and causes brake line corrosion. Don't leave the master cylinder or the fluid container open any longer than necessary. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on painted surfaces. Wipe up any spilled fluid immediately and rinse the area with clear water.
Clean all the bleeder screws. You may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent to loosen it. Seizure is a common problem with bleeder screws, which then break off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part to which they are attached.
Attach a length of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw on the left rear wheel cylinder or caliper. Insert the other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar 1⁄2 filled with brake fluid.
Have your helper slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder (follow the correct bleeding order) screw 1⁄3 1⁄2 of a turn, and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the end of its travel. Have your assistant slowly release the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the expelled fluid.
Repeat the procedure on the other wheels in the following order:
Right front caliper
Right rear wheel cylinder or caliper
Left front caliper
Be sure to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs often. Do not allow the reservoirs to run dry or the bleeding process will have to be repeated.
for more details (pics) visit http://e-toolbox.com/ads/rq.cfm
FYI, this link is taken from section "General Maintenance Reference Links" - there is no need to search, but a need to look around like I did ... hope this helps.
BTW, people here are not rude but just tired of maintaince questions (simple questions). but still ... you are right - if question is not answered there is no need to write ... well, anything at all
#15
Originally Posted by Nj93Vi3tMax
Its good that u know a lot of experience but others may not (including myself). All i did was asking people on the org to help me out. Its ok if u dun wana help, just dun talk sh$t. If i know how, then i wouldn't ask u guys. The search function can't do sh$t, I would never get the answer i wanted it. nOT only happened to me, but also happened to other new members. The moderator think they're so kool. Instead of helping, they're talking **** or acting rude to others. Like i said to Jeff, i will never post anything on the org. And this org sux cuz it got people like him.
if the search was working creating ONE thread will reduce the amount of useless info in the search result.
geez you people need to relax a bit. get out some more and get off the internet.
watch the n00b bandwagon get togther.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaximaDrvr
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
16
08-19-2015 08:20 PM