Advancing timing on VE, let me hear your results
10-01-2003, 07:45 AM
#3
I always run 93 octane, now I just moved it a little and it felt better but I don't have a timing light but at the shop I do, how many degrees should it be moved and what are the problems that can come if not done properly. Thanks for the response Matt.
10-01-2003, 07:49 AM
#5
basically if its not done properly and you advance it to much it can lead to pinging then detonation. But if its done right and advance a few degrees you should feel some more power. the factory is conservative with the stock setting so the car can run on regular gas. you can advance it and run 93 octane. just make sure you use nothing less.
10-01-2003, 08:28 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 486
Originally Posted by D-sta
I barely moved it, but I am taking it to the shop and having it done with the timing light immediately. Thanks guys
10-01-2003, 09:41 AM
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,371
10-01-2003, 10:14 AM
#13
i adavanced my timing to 20 degrees exacctly and i run 93 octane i did feel a little difference. i also used a timing light to get the exact timing perfect. you could purchase a timing light from autozone or even pep boys .
10-01-2003, 10:19 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 886
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
if you don't have a timing light, don't do it. period.
if you advance too far, you risk detonation and screwing up the engine.
if you advance too far, you risk detonation and screwing up the engine.
ummmm. rodger that sir
where was the timing light at the track?!?!?!
errrr
i'll be over here if you need me
10-01-2003, 10:59 AM
#15
Does anyone notice that the engine idles higher on start up, with the timing advanced. I had a friend set mine with a timing gun, but it was hard to read the signal. I'm just wondering if this is normal or not. I feel a big difference from stock timing and I can't hear any pining at all.
10-01-2003, 12:58 PM
#16
I shaved .23 off my 1/4 mile time just by advancing it from 15 to 20 degrees. Yes, I had a timing light.
Jeff's right, some have a hard time trying to get a signal from the #1 coil pack. I was able to get a signal just by removing my FSTB and then clamping it on all the wires coming from that coil pack. Some can't get a signal by doing this, and also, the FSM doesn't tell you to do it this way.
The best way is to unplug the coil pack and use a spark plug wire to link it to the spark plug, then you can tap right into that spark plug wire.
Also, MAKE SURE you follow the base timing mode procedure or it won't work. I think Chilton's manual tells you how to do it. Have fun. Once you figure it out, you will be able to check your timing in 5 minutes or less.
Jeff's right, some have a hard time trying to get a signal from the #1 coil pack. I was able to get a signal just by removing my FSTB and then clamping it on all the wires coming from that coil pack. Some can't get a signal by doing this, and also, the FSM doesn't tell you to do it this way.
The best way is to unplug the coil pack and use a spark plug wire to link it to the spark plug, then you can tap right into that spark plug wire.
Also, MAKE SURE you follow the base timing mode procedure or it won't work. I think Chilton's manual tells you how to do it. Have fun. Once you figure it out, you will be able to check your timing in 5 minutes or less.
10-01-2003, 12:59 PM
#17
this is like the first mod i did 
i bumped it up like a millimeter, very slight advance
diego can i take it to andy, does he have a light?, mine is kinda broken and i like to check the timing periodically
i bumped it up like a millimeter, very slight advance
diego can i take it to andy, does he have a light?, mine is kinda broken and i like to check the timing periodically
10-01-2003, 02:28 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
After you get the light, the next fun thing is getting a decent signal from the #1 signal wire.
could it be the quality of the gun giving people problems with this...i know a few people have had this prob? I have a nice craftsman gun with the dial on it...got it a while back in my racing days where you need a dial since most factory balancers dont have timing marks high enough. Think I paid like 70 or 80 for it or something...higher than your average gun.
Anyway I havent had a problem getting the signal by clipping it on the loop that the FSM says to. I do think that the way aaron says to do it is the best (and is stated in the FSM too) but I didnt have a problem getting a signal.
10-01-2003, 03:07 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Jack.
I've heard of other car's ecu slowly retarding the timing back to factory setting... Is this true at all?
But as far as the 3rd gen Maxima, timing will not change unless you change it or the ECU sees fit to retard it whenever circumstances arise, like detonation. Nothing to worry about with your car. Just make sure you do it right so you don't mess up your motor.
10-01-2003, 04:41 PM
#22
I can get a decent reading but it's not like these timing guns were designed to clip over a bunch of wires that only send a weak signal vs one big plug wire that is already carrying a ramped up voltage from the coil.
10-01-2003, 05:10 PM
#24
Originally Posted by D-sta
I always run 93 octane, now I just moved it a little and it felt better but I don't have a timing light but at the shop I do, how many degrees should it be moved and what are the problems that can come if not done properly. Thanks for the response Matt.
10-01-2003, 07:07 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Are you guy's ignoring me??? LOL
Mike H you GOTTA take a pic (or explain it's precise location) of this loop thingny. I've looked all over my engine bay and I couldn't find the loop so this is why I did mine the way Aaron said. Spicing a spark plug wire in between the coil pack and spark plug. This is a critical adjustment so I took the extra step to make sure I got a "true and easy" spark signal. I said it before and I'll say it again, I first adj mine to 20* drove around a couple weeks and I wasn't too impressed then I bump it to 25* and felt a big difference. Theoretically I don't know if the 25* improved my entire rpm band but I do know for sure the bottom end is A LOT better and for the auto VE that's were we need it the most.
10-01-2003, 08:48 PM
#27
Yeah, I was at the track one day and I tried 25 degrees several times and it didn't hurt me or help me. Wierd. But we have different cars and as we both know... results may vary. 
I just leave mine at 20* and be done with it.
Oh yeah, I tried 25 degrees one 60 degree day with 100 octane that raised my rating to about 96 octane instead of 93. So, I doubt I was detonating. But I know I didn't get faster or slower on average since I was running consistant 14.9s that day.
I just leave mine at 20* and be done with it. Oh yeah, I tried 25 degrees one 60 degree day with 100 octane that raised my rating to about 96 octane instead of 93. So, I doubt I was detonating. But I know I didn't get faster or slower on average since I was running consistant 14.9s that day.
10-02-2003, 06:56 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Bryan H
ummmm. rodger that sir
where was the timing light at the track?!?!?!
errrr
i'll be over here if you need me
where was the timing light at the track?!?!?!
errrr
i'll be over here if you need me
there's a difference between someone like you dinking with it and someone who's never touched a timing light in their life. There's few people that I would just hand the keys over to- you're one of them.
10-02-2003, 09:16 PM
#31
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Advancing your timing will increase your idle, it's a known fact. There's also a procedure in re-adjusting your idle. High idle problem solved
Mike H you GOTTA take a pic (or explain it's precise location) of this loop thingny. I've looked all over my engine bay and I couldn't find the loop so this is why I did mine the way Aaron said. Spicing a spark plug wire in between the coil pack and spark plug. This is a critical adjustment so I took the extra step to make sure I got a "true and easy" spark signal. I said it before and I'll say it again, I first adj mine to 20* drove around a couple weeks and I wasn't too impressed then I bump it to 25* and felt a big difference. Theoretically I don't know if the 25* improved my entire rpm band but I do know for sure the bottom end is A LOT better and for the auto VE that's were we need it the most.
Mike H you GOTTA take a pic (or explain it's precise location) of this loop thingny. I've looked all over my engine bay and I couldn't find the loop so this is why I did mine the way Aaron said. Spicing a spark plug wire in between the coil pack and spark plug. This is a critical adjustment so I took the extra step to make sure I got a "true and easy" spark signal. I said it before and I'll say it again, I first adj mine to 20* drove around a couple weeks and I wasn't too impressed then I bump it to 25* and felt a big difference. Theoretically I don't know if the 25* improved my entire rpm band but I do know for sure the bottom end is A LOT better and for the auto VE that's were we need it the most.
I will take a pic if I ever get the car back but I just looked in the FSM for the location. Its by the PS oil tank. Its page EF&EC-178 method C in my 93 FSM...I am sure you have seen that but its where I got the info to clip my light.
10-02-2003, 11:42 PM
#33
Oh sweet! I think I know what it looks like too.
No more cramming old mustang spark plug wires down the hole and dealing with all that crap.
Tommarrow I get to dust off the timing light.
No more cramming old mustang spark plug wires down the hole and dealing with all that crap.
Tommarrow I get to dust off the timing light.
10-03-2003, 02:34 AM
#34
No f'ing way. It's 5am and I'm at work surfing the net. After seeing that pic I had to go outside with a flashlight to varify and sure enough my loop is there. After all these years I finally found it.
10-03-2003, 04:41 PM
#35
Originally Posted by CandiMan
No f'ing way. It's 5am and I'm at work surfing the net. After seeing that pic I had to go outside with a flashlight to varify and sure enough my loop is there. After all these years I finally found it.
10-03-2003, 04:53 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I tried that loop location per the FSM. I couldn't get jack for a signal. That wire might have been too thick or something but no go for me. I just do the #1 wire harness thing
10-03-2003, 05:28 PM
#38
look advancing the timing is gonna give you better power obviously. just do it right you dont wanna have to deal with detonation. If you dont know what a timing light looks like or how it works, have someone experienced do it for you and learn from them. then you can play with the timing after you KNOW how to do it. hey wait my timing light is craftsman,,,does this mean i can just get a new one ?? or is that just tools ...hummm ill ask anyway...
10-03-2003, 06:32 PM
#39
Aaron, your not going to believe this, but by using that loop my timing light stays on almost constantly, with a small pulse. I just hooked it onto the coil harness and bingo, thats what I'm looking for 
Now I just need to find the reference point so that I can get a correct reading on the timing. One things forsure, it isnt as easy as the mustang is
Now I just need to find the reference point so that I can get a correct reading on the timing. One things forsure, it isnt as easy as the mustang is
10-03-2003, 09:55 PM
#40
Originally Posted by MrGone
Aaron, your not going to believe this, but by using that loop my timing light stays on almost constantly, with a small pulse. I just hooked it onto the coil harness and bingo, thats what I'm looking for
Now I just need to find the reference point so that I can get a correct reading on the timing. One things forsure, it isnt as easy as the mustang is
Now I just need to find the reference point so that I can get a correct reading on the timing. One things forsure, it isnt as easy as the mustang is
Also, are you sure that you have your ECU locked in base timing mode as the FSM tells you? If it's not locked it, then your timing will fluctuate and will give a useless reading.