Nismomaxt

Hey all,
I just dropped in a used vg30e engine. I replaced all the belts and gaskets while I was at it. The engine started the very first time cranking and ran fine while I made some minor adjustments. I drove it to the 7-eleven to air up the tires and less than a mile down the road the engine stopped. I towed it home and dont really want to get into it again unless I know what to look for.
I know it was the belt that gave. DONT BUY CHECKERS AUTO PARTS!

1)Is there a sure way to tell if there is internal damage without pulling the heads again?

2)Should I just install a new belt and try it?
a)if so how do i re-position cams and crank shaft?

I didnt hear any metal tapping when the engine stopped if that helps, but unfortunately I tried to restart it so the cams and crank are surely out of wack.
Has any one had this problem or similar?
I would appreciate any suggestions or comments.
Aloha & Mahalo,
Randy & @CHECKERS

klymkow

Why don't you at least verify the timing belt broke?

Since you have already turned it over, plus the fact that it died while moving, the damage is already done.

Just remove the distributor cap (or look into the oil fill and see if the camshaft is turning) and see if the rotor rotates as you turn the engine over.

If it dorsn't, you more than likely have a broken belt and engine damage. If that looks OK, there's another reason why it died.

Tim

Nismomaxt

Good idea, the rotor did'nt move.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

If your tbelt broke and it sounds like it did they go ahead and pull the heads because you bent valves. You can run a compression test on it if you want but i guarantee that you bent valves. I got my GXE cheap from a friend that broke the belt. It bent every valve in both heads...thats right every valve. I spend about $500 getting the head work done (new valves and exhaust guides plus valve job), gaskets, new water pump and misc. other stuff.

good luck but if you want to check without pulling the heads then just run a compression test.

Nismomaxt

True Michael,
I've just got to bite the bullet again. Got it down pretty good lately with this car. (I think its worth it thou)
Same here, bought it from a friend that busted the tension pulley. Had to pull the engine because of a broken ez-out trying to remove the remaining bolt. This one is for my son and he's getting pretty anxious to drive it, and I'm getting tired of overhauling it. Do they sell performance belts anywhere?
Did you do the work yourself?
Roll Tide, Bama fan too here....Thanks,
Randy

Michael

iTrader: (21)

yeah i did all the work...well the engine work (putting on heads, t belt, water pump etc.) I had the heads work done at a machine shop.

If you want a good belt then get an OEM belt from the dealer. Those are much better than the aftermarket belts imo. Be sure and not overtighten it...that may have been the problem with this last one...its so easy to over tighten that tensioner.

go ahead and put a water pump in if you havent already. If it hasnt been replaced it will fail and then you will have to tear right back into it.

also you may get lucky and only mess up one head so I would go ahead and run a compression test to make sure...to run a compression test you would need to put a new belt on anyway so I guess you can just try and crank it first after you put the belt on.

Nismomaxt

I'll do the compression test after a new belt, good idea that only one head might be damaged.
I put a new water pump on already, a new crank shaft pulley (performance), alternator,radiator,battery ect...
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll let everyone know how it come out. Gota do it this week thou, going back to work on 15th and retard wants to shop for a job in the Maxima.
Mahalo,
Randy

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Bending valves is only one thing that might happen. You can also bend the rods. It's just best to replace the engine when this happens. And before you drop in ANY engine, replace the belts with OEM quality belts. It boggles my mind that anyone would try to save a few dollars by either NOT replacing them at all or by using cheap aftermarket crap when failure means disposing of the engine.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

I kinda doubt it would have bent the rods. All the valves were bent in the motor I had and the rods were fine. It is a possibility but I just dont think it would happen...something to think about and look at though. I think one of the valves would have to come out and get stuck under the head for that to happen...I will try and dig up the pics of my heads with the bent valves sometime tonight.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Seen it before on other engines.

Michael

iTrader: (21)

oh I dont doubt you because I see that it could happen but I honestly dont think with the design of the VG that it bent a rod...but like I said it is definately something to look at. I am no expert but I did redo this engine (VG) after all the valves were bent.

here are a couple pics and you can see that the valves on the VG is at an angle (well not in these since they are bent) and the combustion chamber is big enough that the valve doesnt stick down far enough even fully open to cause the piston which is a flat top to bend anything other than a valve. I guess it could happen but I just dont think it will on the VG...I mean I dont think you can get much worse than these and the motor is perfectly fine after fixing the heads.

Again I am not arguing that it cant happen...I just dont THINK it will on a VG. My .02

Michael

iTrader: (21)

oh and the exhaust valves dont look bent here but they were. Had to replace all 12 valves in the heads.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Answer me this, first you said you changed all the belts so I assume that included the timing belt. Then you say don't buy from Checkers Auto Parts. Was it a new timing belt that broke? If so could Checkers or their timing belt supplier be held liable towards some cost of the engine repair due to a defective brand new belt? I've never heard of a new belt breaking but I know it's possible. Food for thought

Nismomaxt

Thanks for the photos (mechanics ****),
yes, it was a new timing belt. I'll check into the liability issue but i'm sure they will only blame it on improper installation seeing how there wre no instructions with it. I used the shop manual thou....
What rods are you talking about? I thought these were hydraulic. are you talking about the cam shaft?
If i have to change a head or two, i found re-built ones for $200 each and i have to give them my old ones. not too bad.
I haven't even started tearing into it yet, painters are here for the house and for now i have to keep the garage closed (too hot).
I'll keep every one posted.....

Michael

iTrader: (21)

he is talking about the connecting rods...connect the pistons to the crank.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You won't bend rods unless you over rev the engine or hydrolock it. note: valves bend easier than rods.

nismobaron

what Jeff92se said - you won't damage the conrods unless you were revving that bad boy big time. And if you do bend a rod, you're gonna feel the vibration... Being a SOHC per bank you're gonna get a few bent valves.
BTW, after reading a whole bunch of posts, sounds like you've got some real crap aftermarket suppliers. Here in New Zealand I've never had a problem with non OEM parts for any of my cars (#12 & counting...).

Nismomaxt

Rods, da, sorry. i'm thinking more of upper engine problems.
I got the covers pulled. belt is fine. You wont believe it but the front cam sprocket key broke. It was freewhellin for a while i guess. I figure I either didnt tighten it properly or it just gave. Piston faces are fine but it did bend 2 valves on each head.
Anyway, i found a place that is re-valving, port and pollish for under $280. (for both).
I did have a question about round tooth VS. square tooth timing sprockets. I read somewhere that you can get 40k more out of the round
tooth? The belt cost twice as much but it would be worth it if it lasts twice as long. ANY COMMENTS....WASTE OF MONEY....WHAT?
I've already got a spare set of round tooth cam sprockets and i'm sure i can get a spare crank sprocket.
Right now,I'm just waiting for the heads to be re-built.

awsm66, how did you insert the pics. I can't get it to work.

nismobaron

Round tooth timing belt does last 40k longer & yeah, you'll need the round tooth sprockets. Considering how much time it takes to change a timing belt, anything that negates having to do the job any sooner has gotta be better...

Nismomaxt

yea, $34.95us for the crank sprocket and $52.00us for the belt, I think its worth it in the long run.

trashed the BOSE to...... no sounds yet, thinkin Fosgate. Poineer supertuner IIID in my 97 pathfinder, sounds good...............

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

More the reason why I said I never heard of a new belt breaking soon after install. Good luck with the repairs

Michael

iTrader: (21)

You have to first host them on the web. Set up a maxima.cardomain.com website for a free site.

Then you hit the img button above your message box (when you hit reply to a post/thread...not in the quick reply box) and then put the web address of the picture.

You cannot post a pic from your hard drive.

Nismomaxt

Nismomaxt

Hey it worked. Thanks for the info....

Nismomaxt

Hey all,
Got the heads replaced on Saturday. It started the very first time. The engine really sounds great. I'm gone break it in real slow and hopefully i'll get another 110k out of it. Thanks for all the help. If anyone out there needs to know anything about engine swaps, head replacement or exhaust manifolds please contact me. I might be able to save you some money.


total costs to date:
$400 X 2 for junkyard engines. (should have been one)
$487 for head re-valve, port and polish.
$25 x 2 for timing belts.
$0.57 for band-aids
12 pack Bud Lite for borrowed torque wrench.

Total=$1347.56 (bud was $8.99)
oh yea, $60 for a new head gasket.
$1407.56......not too bad I guess?

Aloha,
Randy

89badmaxse

iTrader: (1)

my motor had the timing belt bust. well actually my tensioner bearing went out and it bent EVERY valve and scortched my pistons up. so needless to say i had to get another engine. if you are interested in an engine try GREENLEAF AUTO(it is a nation wide auto parts dismantler so you should find them around your area or just ask some local junk yards or shops how to get their number) they sold me my motor for 675.00 w80,000 miles and a one year parts and labor guarantee. you cant go wrong i have mine running for under 1100 with install.

ajaxthegreater

I had the same experience with an '84 Sentra. Everything was whizzing along properly, then I heard a bunch of fast ping noises after which he engine had no compression. Afterward hitting the starter woud turn the engine over at what seemed like 500RPM, no compression resistance. The happy ending was that I replaced all the valves, slapped in another belt and everything went happily forward from there, no other issues. The pistons had little dings in then, really very small. It made me wonder why they didn't just design it with an extra milimeter of clearance between piston and valve so that it could survive this all too common mishap. Or at least make the freakin belt easier to get to to change...a $35 part and $600 worth of labor to install. Ouch!