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92 max SE with an intermittent stalling problem

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Old 01-07-2004, 10:23 PM
  #81  
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Stalling

Yeah I replaced the ECU in the summer and put the old one back in a month later cause it made no difference.

About replacing the coolant sensor can it be bad if the cars temp gauge is working normaly?

One of the few things I haven't replaced was the crank angle sensor its like a 600 dollar part. I was recently talking to the engineering dept of cardone about the MAF being replaced under warranty and they mentioned some tech notes they had on checking the CAS before replacing the ECU saying they rarely saw bad ECU's on our cars.

I'm beginning to think of parting mine out, I had Maximum tuning rebuild my transmission less then a year ago.
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Old 01-08-2004, 05:33 AM
  #82  
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You have 2 coolant temperature measuring devices on the car.
1. coolant temp SENSOR for the computer
2. coolant temp SENDER for the gauge

most people get them confused constatntly and end up buying the wrong part and assuming that it wasn't the problem.
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Old 01-08-2004, 06:05 PM
  #83  
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I've been lurking for weeks since I discovered this site in my quest to resolve my stalling problem. This board (and this thread, among others,) has been great. I could use some advice/opinions now.

I was having the same symptoms others have reported - intermittent stalling when accelerating, under all different kinds of conditions. I brought it to my local mechanic three times, most recently in November. He replaced the air flow (to the tune of $500,) soon I began having the problem again.

I finally broke down and went to Nissan last month, they replaced the coils and the stalling stopped. However I am having a new problem, bucking when I accelerate or go uphill. Warm or cold, highway or local, etc.

Nissan service is hard pressed to explain it, apparently there are no codes indicating what the problem would be, but they feel strongly that it's due to the after-market air flow. They're suggesting they throw an OEM airflow in, or in the alternative I might want to consider a sweet deal on a pre-owned vehicle (not surprising to hear from a Nissan dealer!)

Either choice is pretty unappealing, moneywise. Really don't want to keep throwing good money after bad. but I love this car. One option could be to go back to my old mechanic (been using him for many years) and see if he will work something out with me on the suspect airflow, but I'm looking for ideas on how y'all would approach it or whether you'd cut your losses and start pounding the pavement of used-car lots.
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:07 PM
  #84  
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The bad thing is, with no codes, you are just going to have to guess (spend money) because there are still other possibilities. The best way to approach this is start with the cheapest thing. I would think that your new Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) is still good and I hope you kept your original one, because it was probably still good, too. When you are trying to fix an unknown problem, don't always throw away the part you think is defective, unless it is actually broken (like a window regulator or a cracked coil pack).

You might want to check the connections on your MAF, since Jeff found that to cause some problems.

Have you replaced your fuel filter recently? That seems obvious, but a lot of cars stumble up hills when their fuel system is clogged. This also might be injectors, since they can cause the same kind of problem.

Does your car still stall under acceleration (where you lose power, then have to get it back under 2k rpm) or is it just "bucking" up hills?

It would seem that "stalling" (cutting out, where you regain power after getting the car back to low rpm) is related more to coil packs and sensors (MAF, Cam Position Sensor, o2 Sensor, Knock Sensor maybe). I think this is because the ECU puts the car into "limp" mode briefly when something electrical (sensors) fail.

The "bucking" seems to be more fuel related, mostly injectors. As Internetautomart has said many times, Nissan is notorious for bad injectors. The car can also run rough or run on just 5 cylinders when this happens, too.

Look very closely at the way your car behaves and see if you can pinpoint this.

It seems like a lot of people are having these problems and there are only so many explanations. Sometimes it's one thing, another thing or a combination.

This is all just my personal theory, but I have done some things to my car to help aleviate the problem. Anyone else is free to add to or disprove my theories.

Oh, I would also add that it pays to shop around or search for deals when you decide to replace parts. Nine times out of 10, someone on this board (Internetautomart, Courtesy Nissan, the 3rd gen for sale forums) can get you a better deal than your local dealer or mechanic.
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:22 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Red92MaxSE
The bad thing is, with no codes, you are just going to have to guess (spend money) because there are still other possibilities. The best way to approach this is start with the cheapest thing. I would think that your new Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) is still good and I hope you kept your original one, because it was probably still good, too. When you are trying to fix an unknown problem, don't always throw away the part you think is defective, unless it is actually broken (like a window regulator or a cracked coil pack).

You might want to check the connections on your MAF, since Jeff found that to cause some problems.

Have you replaced your fuel filter recently? That seems obvious, but a lot of cars stumble up hills when their fuel system is clogged. This also might be injectors, since they can cause the same kind of problem.

Does your car still stall under acceleration (where you lose power, then have to get it back under 2k rpm) or is it just "bucking" up hills?

It would seem that "stalling" (cutting out, where you regain power after getting the car back to low rpm) is related more to coil packs and sensors (MAF, Cam Position Sensor, o2 Sensor, Knock Sensor maybe). I think this is because the ECU puts the car into "limp" mode briefly when something electrical (sensors) fail.

The "bucking" seems to be more fuel related, mostly injectors. As Internetautomart has said many times, Nissan is notorious for bad injectors. The car can also run rough or run on just 5 cylinders when this happens, too.

Look very closely at the way your car behaves and see if you can pinpoint this.

It seems like a lot of people are having these problems and there are only so many explanations. Sometimes it's one thing, another thing or a combination.

This is all just my personal theory, but I have done some things to my car to help aleviate the problem. Anyone else is free to add to or disprove my theories.

Oh, I would also add that it pays to shop around or search for deals when you decide to replace parts. Nine times out of 10, someone on this board (Internetautomart, Courtesy Nissan, the 3rd gen for sale forums) can get you a better deal than your local dealer or mechanic.
Thanks for your thoughts. Just to be clear, the stalling was resolved with the coil replacement. However the bucking/hesitating with no apparent loss of power, which happens when either accelerating or climbing, happens constantly.

I'll check out the fuel filter angle. Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2004, 09:02 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by InFromTheCold
Thanks for your thoughts. Just to be clear, the stalling was resolved with the coil replacement. However the bucking/hesitating with no apparent loss of power, which happens when either accelerating or climbing, happens constantly.

I'll check out the fuel filter angle. Thanks.
You can check out the MAF connection issue pretty easily also, disconnect the battery them remove the MAF connector and slightly bend the female side of the connector to insure a tight connection. This used to solve my bucking problem for several months at a time.
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