Another -organized- MEVI vs. 00VI thread...
11-30-2005, 03:23 PM
#1
Another -organized- MEVI vs. 00VI thread...
I plan on upgrading my IM somewhere down the line, so I figured I better start forming my decision now. There are a few things I didn't really get from the threads here and that I would love to know. Someone please fill me in!
MEVI:
From what I've reading, the greatest thing about the MEVI is that it screams in the 5000+ RPM. This is when the "dynamic forced induction", or pseudo/quasi-supercharger effect comes in. What I still don't understand very well is this "switching" mechanism that activates this. Supposedly you can set a point at which the MEVI switches over to the short runners, but is this an automatic thing, or would you have to flip a switch or something? A lot of people claim to lose a considerable amount of low end power, but this is corrected with an upgraded ECU...
00VI:
Don't know much about the 00VI, except that it seems to be the well-rounded cousin of the MEVI. What is its' strong point - midrange RPMs? Where does it falter when compared to the stock US intake? Does this have a "switching" mechanism as well? Is it user-controlled/set or automatic?
How do these 2 setups compare in overall gains?
How hard are they to install (comparison)?
Thank you all for your time.
-Maurice
MEVI:
From what I've reading, the greatest thing about the MEVI is that it screams in the 5000+ RPM. This is when the "dynamic forced induction", or pseudo/quasi-supercharger effect comes in. What I still don't understand very well is this "switching" mechanism that activates this. Supposedly you can set a point at which the MEVI switches over to the short runners, but is this an automatic thing, or would you have to flip a switch or something? A lot of people claim to lose a considerable amount of low end power, but this is corrected with an upgraded ECU...
00VI:
Don't know much about the 00VI, except that it seems to be the well-rounded cousin of the MEVI. What is its' strong point - midrange RPMs? Where does it falter when compared to the stock US intake? Does this have a "switching" mechanism as well? Is it user-controlled/set or automatic?
How do these 2 setups compare in overall gains?
How hard are they to install (comparison)?
Thank you all for your time.
-Maurice
11-30-2005, 03:32 PM
#2
What I still don't understand very well is this "switching" mechanism that activates this.......... but is this an automatic thing, or would you have to flip a switch or something?.....
Supposedly you can set a point at which the MEVI switches over to the short runners
Does this have a "switching" mechanism as well? Is it user-controlled/set or automatic?
... Search > you.
11-30-2005, 03:51 PM
#4
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You need to read more.
I thought it was dynamic supercharging, and not a new set of runners?
I thought it was dynamic supercharging, and not a new set of runners?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It's an easy concept, and you should read through some old posts because EVERYTHING asked in this thread is a ...
Search > you.
... Search > you.
11-30-2005, 04:00 PM
#5
Are you sure you're not the one that needs to read more?
What I still don't understand very well is this "switching" mechanism that activates this. Supposedly you can set a point at which the MEVI switches over ............. but is this an automatic thing, or would you have to flip a switch or something?
The Harlan has been known to give problems, like flaking out and needing a reset. 2 members claim the Harlan is good, but many others dispute and would rather have a Summit switch.
I went through 2 Harlans and ended up with a Summit.
The Harlan needs to be tapped off of the coilpack wire to obtain its RPM signal.
Now that you have (deear God iIhope so) the concept of how an RPM switch works, we can go onto lesson # 2, where the RPM switch sends its signal to activate the actualtor.
So, once you wire everything up, (+12V, GND, RPM signal, Solenoid GND)
Judging from what I typed above regarding the connections, let's see if we can figure out what does what, mmmk?
+12V = Power, w/o it and the switch wont work, same goes for GND, RPM signal will tell the switch what RPM the engine is at, and Solenoid GND will tell the switch when to tell the solenoid to activate.
With me so far?
Ok, on we go....
Now we will explain how the solenoid knows when to open.
So, there are many different types of solenoids and vacuum canisters than can be used. I used the Dawes devices one (old school but it works), and lately most seem to like OEM Nissan, and the NAPA vacuum canister.
The Solenoid
This device is tapped into a simple vacuum port, typically using a T and tapping some vacuum from the IACV or IM (MAP/BARO). This device has 3 ports(mine is the Dawes device, but the concept is the same regardless) One port is to bleed off into the air, no hose connection, the other is connected to the VI actuator, and the last one is connected to the vacuum canister, so that when the RPM is reached the solenoid switches channels, and provides the vacuum stored in the canister to be used to activate the VI .
Electronics behind it.
This piece is connected to the a 12V source AND the RPM switch(Solenoid GND) , so when the correct RPM is reached, it(RPM switch) will provide a GND at that RPM point, so that the solenoid will receive a GND, and since the solenoid already has a +12v source, it will complete the circuit with the provided GND, and activate.
Either that or you can use a toggle switch to activate it whenever you please, but keep in mind, the earlier is not always the best.... This will be learned in later chapters.
11-30-2005, 04:09 PM
#6
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Positive, below I will answer this as best as I can ...
An RPM switch is activated by exactly that, RPM signal. This is obtained, depending on what switch you use, through either the green wire on the coil itself, or the ECU RPM signal wire (white w/ green stripe) this is found by separating the ECU bundle of wires, or simple taking the plastic cover of the dash/gauge cluster off.
The Harlan has been known to give problems, like flaking out and needing a reset. 2 members claim the Harlan is good, but many others dispute and would rather have a Summit switch.
I went through 2 Harlans and ended up with a Summit.
The Harlan needs to be tapped off of the coilpack wire to obtain its RPM signal.
Now that you have (deear God iIhope so) the concept of how an RPM switch works, we can go onto lesson # 2, where the RPM switch sends its signal to activate the actualtor.
So, once you wire everything up, (+12V, GND, RPM signal, Solenoid GND)
Judging from what I typed above regarding the connections, let's see if we can figure out what does what, mmmk?
+12V = Power, w/o it and the switch wont work, same goes for GND, RPM signal will tell the switch what RPM the engine is at, and Solenoid GND will tell the switch when to tell the solenoid to activate.
With me so far?
Ok, on we go....
Now we will explain how the solenoid knows when to open.
So, there are many different types of solenoids and vacuum canisters than can be used. I used the Dawes devices one (old school but it works), and lately most seem to like OEM Nissan, and the NAPA vacuum canister.
The Solenoid
This device is tapped into a simple vacuum port, typically using a T and tapping some vacuum from the IACV or IM (MAP/BARO). This device has 3 ports(mine is the Dawes device, but the concept is the same regardless) One port is to bleed off into the air, no hose connection, the other is connected to the VI actuator, and the last one is connected to the vacuum canister, so that when the RPM is reached the solenoid switches channels, and provides the vacuum stored in the canister to be used to activate the VI .
Electronics behind it.
This piece is connected to the a 12V source AND the RPM switch(Solenoid GND) , so when the correct RPM is reached, it(RPM switch) will provide a GND at that RPM point, so that the solenoid will receive a GND, and since the solenoid already has a +12v source, it will complete the circuit with the provided GND, and activate.
Either that or you can use a toggle switch to activate it whenever you please, but keep in mind, the earlier is not always the best.... This will be learned in later chapters.
An RPM switch is activated by exactly that, RPM signal. This is obtained, depending on what switch you use, through either the green wire on the coil itself, or the ECU RPM signal wire (white w/ green stripe) this is found by separating the ECU bundle of wires, or simple taking the plastic cover of the dash/gauge cluster off.
The Harlan has been known to give problems, like flaking out and needing a reset. 2 members claim the Harlan is good, but many others dispute and would rather have a Summit switch.
I went through 2 Harlans and ended up with a Summit.
The Harlan needs to be tapped off of the coilpack wire to obtain its RPM signal.
Now that you have (deear God iIhope so) the concept of how an RPM switch works, we can go onto lesson # 2, where the RPM switch sends its signal to activate the actualtor.
So, once you wire everything up, (+12V, GND, RPM signal, Solenoid GND)
Judging from what I typed above regarding the connections, let's see if we can figure out what does what, mmmk?
+12V = Power, w/o it and the switch wont work, same goes for GND, RPM signal will tell the switch what RPM the engine is at, and Solenoid GND will tell the switch when to tell the solenoid to activate.
With me so far?
Ok, on we go....
Now we will explain how the solenoid knows when to open.
So, there are many different types of solenoids and vacuum canisters than can be used. I used the Dawes devices one (old school but it works), and lately most seem to like OEM Nissan, and the NAPA vacuum canister.
The Solenoid
This device is tapped into a simple vacuum port, typically using a T and tapping some vacuum from the IACV or IM (MAP/BARO). This device has 3 ports(mine is the Dawes device, but the concept is the same regardless) One port is to bleed off into the air, no hose connection, the other is connected to the VI actuator, and the last one is connected to the vacuum canister, so that when the RPM is reached the solenoid switches channels, and provides the vacuum stored in the canister to be used to activate the VI .
Electronics behind it.
This piece is connected to the a 12V source AND the RPM switch(Solenoid GND) , so when the correct RPM is reached, it(RPM switch) will provide a GND at that RPM point, so that the solenoid will receive a GND, and since the solenoid already has a +12v source, it will complete the circuit with the provided GND, and activate.
Either that or you can use a toggle switch to activate it whenever you please, but keep in mind, the earlier is not always the best.... This will be learned in later chapters.
NmexMAX
Joo!!!
11-30-2005, 04:09 PM
#7
How do these 2 setups compare in overall gains?
How hard are they to install (comparison)?
00VI, much more involvled and expericen is needed when doing vaccuum lines, drillin LIMs, grinding valve covers etc
...The rest is History .....
11-30-2005, 04:11 PM
#8
Excellent reply, provided you did indeed write it. Sarcasm aside, I just wanted to know the basics, for now, but I truly appreciate the time you took to explain - in detail - the fundamentals of how a VI works. 
Specifically, I'd like someone to quote my original post and answer the questions in a quote/answer format. Regardless, thank you for your informative contribution!
Specifically, I'd like someone to quote my original post and answer the questions in a quote/answer format. Regardless, thank you for your informative contribution!
11-30-2005, 04:12 PM
#9
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 785
NmxMax basically summed how it works up. If you have the skills go for the 00VI, but the mevi is still good. I don't have an upgraded ECu, but I still love my mevi. The low end loss is slightly noticable but well worth the extra power on top.
11-30-2005, 04:12 PM
#10
Originally Posted by blackmaxx96
NmexMAX Joo!!!
Joo!!!
And to think that we still need to cover installations, and power advantages.
11-30-2005, 04:14 PM
#11
Originally Posted by blackmaxx96
NmexMAX Joo!!!
Joo!!!
Originally Posted by MaDMvD
Most of the time I see your name in a thread, it's usually accompanied by flaming and nothing that actually pertains to the thread's topic. Flame on, flamer!
..........
11-30-2005, 04:19 PM
#12
Originally Posted by MaDMvD
Excellent reply, provided you did indeed write it.
:.. No I cut and pasted it ..... Still talking shizat 
I've had my MEVI since it's USA inception in Spring/Summer of 2002, and I think it's sad that you needed an explanation of something that simple.
Originally Posted by MaDMvD
Specifically, I'd like someone to quote my original post and answer the questions in a quote/answer format.
The reason I flame, is because unless you spend time in the Advanced Performance Forums, everything here is a
11-30-2005, 05:44 PM
#17
Originally Posted by DrTySOUFMaX23
so it basically worthless unless u racing on the highway?!?! i dunno...
11-30-2005, 06:25 PM
#21
Originally Posted by MaDMvD
I normally don't waste my time with low-life douche bags like you, however, you are a special case. First off, who the **** are you and what do you know about me? Talk about clueless - you're a damn waste of oxygen. I wonder how a stupid pile of meat like yourself could even have the oddasity to post such an ignorant, mal-informed comment such as the one you made. Your signature speaks the truth. You don't have the mental capacity to keep your damned mouth shut.
you're a girl?
11-30-2005, 10:01 PM
#25
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Minneapolis,MN
Posts: 737
Originally Posted by MaDMvD
........ could even have the oddasity to post ..........
All the info for the MEVI/00VI is out there.
Don't ask to have it spoon fed to you.
this means you too DrTySOUFMaX23
11-30-2005, 11:35 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 149
rofl... 
woohoo! vacations are cool! 
go sober! im sober too man! just got a year on the 17th and fkin proud of it! ...yeah way off topic, sorry. im just kidding don't give me a vacation!
woohoo! vacations are cool! go sober! im sober too man! just got a year on the 17th and fkin proud of it! ...yeah way off topic, sorry. im just kidding don't give me a vacation!
12-01-2005, 02:04 AM
#29
Riiiight, well, disregarding most of the other stuff, the only advantage the 00VI does not have over the MEVI is ease of installation. The MEVI will lose a little low end and quite a bit of midrange torque, but will gain an incredible amount of high-end torque (and peak power). The 00VI doesn't really lose any torque anywhere in the rev range, in fact it even adds torque over the entire thing IIRC.
The MEVI is basically bolt-on, with minimal modification required.
I'd like to have an 00VI too someday, but I still have some reading up to do as well.
Nice to see a girl interested in some go-fast stuff, even if she does drive an auto.
P.S. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=424641
The MEVI is basically bolt-on, with minimal modification required.
I'd like to have an 00VI too someday, but I still have some reading up to do as well.
Nice to see a girl interested in some go-fast stuff, even if she does drive an auto.
P.S. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=424641
12-01-2005, 09:59 AM
#30
ok kids.. enough here.. and MaDMvD most of your answers are in the FAQ of this or the advanced performance forum.
AsthmaMax11- this is your 1st and last warning. You could have taken NmexMAX's approach, but you wanted to be an a$$, not a smart a$$. DO NOT do that BS again.
AsthmaMax11- this is your 1st and last warning. You could have taken NmexMAX's approach, but you wanted to be an a$$, not a smart a$$. DO NOT do that BS again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
01-04-2024 07:01 PM
t6378tp
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
11
09-29-2018 04:27 PM
Maximeltman
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
0
08-31-2015 01:01 PM