How to Replace Power Steering Pump [Sticky Me Please]
11-23-2005, 07:18 PM
#1
How to Replace Power Steering Pump [Sticky Me Please]
Please add this to the 4th Gen How To's sticky thread. The information on the org and the rest of the internet is limited and terribly difficult to find even with Search. The FSM is worthless in this as well. It tells you how to disassemble the thing, but not how to remove it from the car. I apologize for not having any pictures. The Haynes manual has three that are decent.
This process will take some time and it's nice to have a second. Major props to JNCoRacer for his help on this one!
First of all, you will need to following tools to complete this replacement.
1) 12mm, 14mm, 19mm open/box wrench
2) 8mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 24mm sockets (various drives, that's up to you)
3) A universal joint for socket wrench (again drive is your call)
4) Drain pan
5) Turkey bastor or some pump to remove the power steering fluid
Obvious and/or optional parts
1) New power steering pump
2) Pickle fork (to remove the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle)
3) Power steering fluid (optional, but recommended)
4) Hammer (might need while reinstalling)
IMPORTANT NOTES
First note is be patient. This install is not fun and not easy, but it can be done easily if you take your time. Secondly, if you are replacing your power steering pump, make sure it's the right part. Autozone sold me one that was supposed to be for a 95 Maxima and it's almost identical, but the high pressure line was on the wrong side. While holding the new one, with the low side line (small hole with a screw hole on each side of it) facing up and the part where the pulley would go is facing you, the hole for the high pressure line should be on your right. Also, if you do not have an aftermarket y-pipe, you are going to have to take it off. I have an early version of the Budget Y and I almost took mine off. Luckily I had a lot of 1/2in drive extensions. If you are going to be changing inner tie rods or your passenger side axle in the near future, it would good to do this at the same time as these can get in the way. Not necessary to take them off, but it would be nice.
Additional Notes found in Post #29 below.
Ok, on to the instructions.
REMOVAL
1) Raise front end of car and remove the passenger wheel and the plastic covers for the drive belts (Haynes and another write up I found say to disconnect the battery. You will not be working with electricity, but it might be a good idea for safe measure)
2) Use the pump or turkey bastor to remove as much power steering fluid you can from the reservoir.
3) Remove the drive belt. You will need the 14mm socket wrench to adjust the idler pulley from the top of the engine next to the timing chain cover and the 14mm open/box wrench for the bolt on the idler pulley.
4) Next, use the 12mm socket to lower the power steering pump to remove the power steerig pump belt. This bolt faces down and is just to the left of pump itself. You will turn the bolt clockwise (like you were tightening a bolt).
5) As you lower the pump, try to see if you can remove the power steering pump belt. If you have lowered the pump as far as possible, your next move is to remove the 14mm bolt on the back side of the pump itself. This is the tough one. You will need the 14mm socket and universal joint. Personally, I was able to use a lot of extensions (about 12 to 14in worth), the universal, then the socket to get this thing off. The bolt itself is fairly small and looks a bit inconspicuous. You can only get to this thing from under the car. I ran my extension over the y-pipe and under the drive shaft to get to this. Once this bolt is removed, the pump should be fairly free moving (up & down only) and you should be able to get the belt off.
6) Now you will need the 24mm socket wrench to remove the high pressure line from the pump. It's a tight spot and I recommend getting at it from the opening for the tie rod. Watch out as there will be some power steering fluid coming out.
7) Next remove the lower pressure (fluid return) hose from the pump. You will need the 8mm socket to undo the clamp. We took this off after Step 8, so I'm not completely sure it will be easier at this point.
8) Your final step to remove this thing is to remove the bolt that is holding the adjustment screw to the adjustment brackets. You will need the 12mm open/box wrench. My ratcheting box wrench was really nice here. I recommend getting to this bolt via the opening near the crankshaft pulley.
9) Now that everything is unbolted you should be able to move the pump around freely. The only way to get that thing out is through the opening for the tie rod. You will need to disconnect the outer tie rod (needle nose pliers and 19mm socket) from the steering knuckle to move it somewhat out of the way. If you have never removed this, I recommend using a pickle fork (you can rent one for like $20 at Autozone). I was able to use a 1/4in drive extension and a Hammer to pop mine out (Be sure not to hit the bottom of the outer tie rod directly as it will mess up the threads of the outer tie rod. This will cause bigger problems).
10) With the tie rod moved aside and the pump movable, you will need to twist and turn the pump to get it out. This part sucks. It will take patience and creativity. JNCoRacer pulled it out while I was getting us some drinks, so I don't know exactly at what position he got it out. I think he used the words "slight force."
11) Your power steering pump is now uninstalled! You will need to remove the pulley (19mm) as a new pump will not come with one. Make sure the new pump has at least a rubber o-ring and hopefully two copper gaskets for the high pressure line. You will also have to remove the bracket for the adjustment screw (14mm), the adapter for the low pressure line (2x12mm), and the funky "adapter" for the high pressure line (24mm).
Reinstall in exact reverse order and you should be good to go. Just make sure you at least get the adjustment screw back on before you put in the long 14mm bolt on the back side of the pump. You might need the hammer and an extension to lightly tap the pump up to get that bolt in. The rubber o-ring is for the low pressure line adapter and the two copper gaskets are used for the high pressure line adapter bolt that screws into the pump itself. I would recommend that you not put the pulley on the new pump until you at least have the adjustment screw back on. This will make it easier to get the new pump into the engine area.
BLEEDING
1) Fill the pump reservoir and allow to remain undisturbed for a few minutes.
2) Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are clear of the ground.
3) With the engine off, quickly turn the wheels right and left several times, lightly contacting the stops. You will see slight bubbling in the reservoir. Add fluid if necessary.
4) Start the engine and let it idle. Repeat Step 3 with the engine idling.
5) Stop the engine, lower the vehicle until the wheels just touch the ground.
6) Start the engine, allow it to idle, and repeat step 3. Check the fluid level and refill, if necessary.
Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions ahead of time regarding this install.
Thanks and good luck!
This process will take some time and it's nice to have a second. Major props to JNCoRacer for his help on this one!
First of all, you will need to following tools to complete this replacement.
1) 12mm, 14mm, 19mm open/box wrench
2) 8mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 24mm sockets (various drives, that's up to you)
3) A universal joint for socket wrench (again drive is your call)
4) Drain pan
5) Turkey bastor or some pump to remove the power steering fluid
Obvious and/or optional parts
1) New power steering pump
2) Pickle fork (to remove the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle)
3) Power steering fluid (optional, but recommended)
4) Hammer (might need while reinstalling)
IMPORTANT NOTES
First note is be patient. This install is not fun and not easy, but it can be done easily if you take your time. Secondly, if you are replacing your power steering pump, make sure it's the right part. Autozone sold me one that was supposed to be for a 95 Maxima and it's almost identical, but the high pressure line was on the wrong side. While holding the new one, with the low side line (small hole with a screw hole on each side of it) facing up and the part where the pulley would go is facing you, the hole for the high pressure line should be on your right. Also, if you do not have an aftermarket y-pipe, you are going to have to take it off. I have an early version of the Budget Y and I almost took mine off. Luckily I had a lot of 1/2in drive extensions. If you are going to be changing inner tie rods or your passenger side axle in the near future, it would good to do this at the same time as these can get in the way. Not necessary to take them off, but it would be nice.
Additional Notes found in Post #29 below.
Ok, on to the instructions.
REMOVAL
1) Raise front end of car and remove the passenger wheel and the plastic covers for the drive belts (Haynes and another write up I found say to disconnect the battery. You will not be working with electricity, but it might be a good idea for safe measure)
2) Use the pump or turkey bastor to remove as much power steering fluid you can from the reservoir.
3) Remove the drive belt. You will need the 14mm socket wrench to adjust the idler pulley from the top of the engine next to the timing chain cover and the 14mm open/box wrench for the bolt on the idler pulley.
4) Next, use the 12mm socket to lower the power steering pump to remove the power steerig pump belt. This bolt faces down and is just to the left of pump itself. You will turn the bolt clockwise (like you were tightening a bolt).
5) As you lower the pump, try to see if you can remove the power steering pump belt. If you have lowered the pump as far as possible, your next move is to remove the 14mm bolt on the back side of the pump itself. This is the tough one. You will need the 14mm socket and universal joint. Personally, I was able to use a lot of extensions (about 12 to 14in worth), the universal, then the socket to get this thing off. The bolt itself is fairly small and looks a bit inconspicuous. You can only get to this thing from under the car. I ran my extension over the y-pipe and under the drive shaft to get to this. Once this bolt is removed, the pump should be fairly free moving (up & down only) and you should be able to get the belt off.
6) Now you will need the 24mm socket wrench to remove the high pressure line from the pump. It's a tight spot and I recommend getting at it from the opening for the tie rod. Watch out as there will be some power steering fluid coming out.
7) Next remove the lower pressure (fluid return) hose from the pump. You will need the 8mm socket to undo the clamp. We took this off after Step 8, so I'm not completely sure it will be easier at this point.
8) Your final step to remove this thing is to remove the bolt that is holding the adjustment screw to the adjustment brackets. You will need the 12mm open/box wrench. My ratcheting box wrench was really nice here. I recommend getting to this bolt via the opening near the crankshaft pulley.
9) Now that everything is unbolted you should be able to move the pump around freely. The only way to get that thing out is through the opening for the tie rod. You will need to disconnect the outer tie rod (needle nose pliers and 19mm socket) from the steering knuckle to move it somewhat out of the way. If you have never removed this, I recommend using a pickle fork (you can rent one for like $20 at Autozone). I was able to use a 1/4in drive extension and a Hammer to pop mine out (Be sure not to hit the bottom of the outer tie rod directly as it will mess up the threads of the outer tie rod. This will cause bigger problems).
10) With the tie rod moved aside and the pump movable, you will need to twist and turn the pump to get it out. This part sucks. It will take patience and creativity. JNCoRacer pulled it out while I was getting us some drinks, so I don't know exactly at what position he got it out. I think he used the words "slight force."
11) Your power steering pump is now uninstalled! You will need to remove the pulley (19mm) as a new pump will not come with one. Make sure the new pump has at least a rubber o-ring and hopefully two copper gaskets for the high pressure line. You will also have to remove the bracket for the adjustment screw (14mm), the adapter for the low pressure line (2x12mm), and the funky "adapter" for the high pressure line (24mm).
Reinstall in exact reverse order and you should be good to go. Just make sure you at least get the adjustment screw back on before you put in the long 14mm bolt on the back side of the pump. You might need the hammer and an extension to lightly tap the pump up to get that bolt in. The rubber o-ring is for the low pressure line adapter and the two copper gaskets are used for the high pressure line adapter bolt that screws into the pump itself. I would recommend that you not put the pulley on the new pump until you at least have the adjustment screw back on. This will make it easier to get the new pump into the engine area.
BLEEDING
1) Fill the pump reservoir and allow to remain undisturbed for a few minutes.
2) Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are clear of the ground.
3) With the engine off, quickly turn the wheels right and left several times, lightly contacting the stops. You will see slight bubbling in the reservoir. Add fluid if necessary.
4) Start the engine and let it idle. Repeat Step 3 with the engine idling.
5) Stop the engine, lower the vehicle until the wheels just touch the ground.
6) Start the engine, allow it to idle, and repeat step 3. Check the fluid level and refill, if necessary.
Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions ahead of time regarding this install.
Thanks and good luck!
Last edited by BlueBOB; 05-08-2012 at 04:42 AM.
11-24-2005, 05:22 AM
#3
Rock on. I'm doing this next week when my hose seal kit (washers) arrives.
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
11-24-2005, 05:08 PM
#4
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Rock on. I'm doing this next week when my hose seal kit (washers) arrives.
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
Thanks for the props. I just felt this was vital information for the rest of the 4th gen members
. I may have to do mine, hopefully it is just one of the hoses.
u mess it up and u pay for parts that you never knew about.
11-27-2005, 03:37 PM
#11
One thing that you may want to modify in the instructions is the way you take out the power steering fluid. I just removed the PS pump from a Honda and the directions had me just remove the return line that goes into the resivoir, put the end in a small container, and start the car and turn the wheels from left to right until all the fluid is out. This gets it completely out of the system and you can start with fresh fluid.
11-29-2005, 08:52 AM
#13
Originally Posted by jwmaxse
One thing that you may want to modify in the instructions is the way you take out the power steering fluid. I just removed the PS pump from a Honda and the directions had me just remove the return line that goes into the resivoir, put the end in a small container, and start the car and turn the wheels from left to right until all the fluid is out. This gets it completely out of the system and you can start with fresh fluid.
04-18-2006, 08:57 AM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
I just can't get to the pivot bolt on my PS pump...
I'm doing a water pump job, and have the P/S pump about 85% of the way out, but I just can't reach the pivot bolt on the back of the pump that keeps the pump firm. Do you have any tips for reaching that bolt?
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
04-18-2006, 09:07 AM
#16
Originally Posted by mikeyen
I'm doing a water pump job, and have the P/S pump about 85% of the way out, but I just can't reach the pivot bolt on the back of the pump that keeps the pump firm. Do you have any tips for reaching that bolt?
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
04-18-2006, 10:34 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Wrench
Do you think this would work?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999697000
(It is a 12mm, right?)
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999697000
(It is a 12mm, right?)
04-18-2006, 10:41 AM
#18
Originally Posted by mikeyen
Do you think this would work?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999697000
(It is a 12mm, right?)
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00999697000
(It is a 12mm, right?)
It's a 14mm BTW.
04-18-2006, 04:30 PM
#19
Originally Posted by mikeyen
I'm doing a water pump job, and have the P/S pump about 85% of the way out, but I just can't reach the pivot bolt on the back of the pump that keeps the pump firm. Do you have any tips for reaching that bolt?
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
If I can't get to it, I'm not going to freak out; I'll just leave the belt in (it has about 50k miles on it, I think). But since I'm this far into it, it does seem a shame to not be able to change that belt.
04-19-2006, 08:48 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
I got it out
Thanks to your help, I was able to get that bolt loosened.
Here are my additional tips:
1) Make sure you get the car high enough off the ground to get in there. I fully extended my 15" jack to get it high enough, and had those jackstands set pretty high. And if you're at all like me and hate working in confined spots, leave yourself a good exit route; at one point, the extension cord for my work light fell off the car, and I panicked and was outta there.
2) The reason I had a hard time doing this was that some mechanic looked under there, saw that bolt, and immediately said to himself, "Air wrench", which I think seems totally logical... Then, when he put it back together, he also said, "Air wrench", which meant the thing was on there with a good 60 ft-lbs of torque. When this thing is on with the specified 10-15 ft-lbs, no problem, but with 60, that makes it at least 4 times as hard to get out. So when I put it back together, I just went past "snug", which should be more than enough.
3) DO NOT remove the tensioner itself; that just adds 20 minutes of frustration when you need to put it back on. Taking it off adds nothing but 30 minutes of grief.
As a total aside, I was in there to do my water pump. Old school thinking says, "Change the thermostat too", which I did. My thinking now is, if you're in there to change the water pump, take out the thermostat, too. It gives you a lot more room to work. Don't be shy; take it out. It's really not that hard.
And take out the horn, too. Ten seconds of work, and the reward is priceless.
I also put in belts that in addition to the "lengthwise" grooves also have "crosswise" grooves every inch or so. I think these belts are much quieter. I was pleasantly surprised. They really work.
But man, when I started it, for the first minute or so, I wasn't completely convinced I hadn't bent every single valve in that engine. I was warned at how bad it'd sound, but NOTHING prepared me for that. Kriminy. I thought maybe the timing chain had slipped and I'd toasted everything. It was purring like a kitten within 5 minutes. Does anyone know what causes that? Is it the timing chain whacking against the case, or de-pressurized lifters, or what?
Anyway, thanks all. I'm happy now.
Here are my additional tips:
1) Make sure you get the car high enough off the ground to get in there. I fully extended my 15" jack to get it high enough, and had those jackstands set pretty high. And if you're at all like me and hate working in confined spots, leave yourself a good exit route; at one point, the extension cord for my work light fell off the car, and I panicked and was outta there.
2) The reason I had a hard time doing this was that some mechanic looked under there, saw that bolt, and immediately said to himself, "Air wrench", which I think seems totally logical... Then, when he put it back together, he also said, "Air wrench", which meant the thing was on there with a good 60 ft-lbs of torque. When this thing is on with the specified 10-15 ft-lbs, no problem, but with 60, that makes it at least 4 times as hard to get out. So when I put it back together, I just went past "snug", which should be more than enough.
3) DO NOT remove the tensioner itself; that just adds 20 minutes of frustration when you need to put it back on. Taking it off adds nothing but 30 minutes of grief.
As a total aside, I was in there to do my water pump. Old school thinking says, "Change the thermostat too", which I did. My thinking now is, if you're in there to change the water pump, take out the thermostat, too. It gives you a lot more room to work. Don't be shy; take it out. It's really not that hard.
And take out the horn, too. Ten seconds of work, and the reward is priceless.
I also put in belts that in addition to the "lengthwise" grooves also have "crosswise" grooves every inch or so. I think these belts are much quieter. I was pleasantly surprised. They really work.
But man, when I started it, for the first minute or so, I wasn't completely convinced I hadn't bent every single valve in that engine. I was warned at how bad it'd sound, but NOTHING prepared me for that. Kriminy. I thought maybe the timing chain had slipped and I'd toasted everything. It was purring like a kitten within 5 minutes. Does anyone know what causes that? Is it the timing chain whacking against the case, or de-pressurized lifters, or what?
Anyway, thanks all. I'm happy now.
12-17-2008, 10:12 AM
#21
These instructions were very helpful to me, but I wanted to add a solution to one problem I encountered.
If you're having problems getting the power steering pump back into place because the brass bushing in the bolt hole furthest from the passenger wheel well is sticking too far out and needs to be pressed in, see this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...p-install.html
If you're having problems getting the power steering pump back into place because the brass bushing in the bolt hole furthest from the passenger wheel well is sticking too far out and needs to be pressed in, see this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...p-install.html
07-04-2009, 03:02 AM
#24
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 118
Rock on. I'm doing this next week when my hose seal kit (washers) arrives.
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
FWIW, I found that a 14mm 3/8 deep socket attached to a pivoting-head socket wrench allowed my to get the PSP pivot bolt from the tie rod opening. Also be careful that a pickle fork will damage the tie rod end - you may do better renting the pitman arm puller or simply using a hammer to whack it loose.
Dave
Thanks!!
07-04-2009, 04:20 AM
#25
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
He just put new washers on it. FYI, 95-03 pumps are all the same (Some fitting swapping is nescessary between gens though) So it's nice to grab a nice late model pump when dooing this job.
I've done quite a few power steering pumps, and to avoid damaging the tie-rod boot I remove the pulley from the pump while it is 1/2 way out w/an impact gun (but it can be done with a wrench and sticking a screwdriver through it also or unbolting the pulley while the belt is still on and something stuffed in the belt.)
The other thing I do differently is I don't unbolt the hoses from the pump, I unbolt them from the reservoir and pressure sensor and snake them down, this makes re-installation easier as well.
I've done quite a few power steering pumps, and to avoid damaging the tie-rod boot I remove the pulley from the pump while it is 1/2 way out w/an impact gun (but it can be done with a wrench and sticking a screwdriver through it also or unbolting the pulley while the belt is still on and something stuffed in the belt.)
The other thing I do differently is I don't unbolt the hoses from the pump, I unbolt them from the reservoir and pressure sensor and snake them down, this makes re-installation easier as well.
07-05-2009, 09:48 AM
#26
since i've done this a few times now a few hours is a good estimate. if you can get the pulley off, you'll have less problems removing the pump from the wheel well area, but i don't think it's worth it personally.
good luck
good luck
09-06-2011, 12:24 AM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
Your discription was very helpful. However, I have not been able to remove the pump from the engine compartment. I have removed the tie rod from the steering knuckle, but there still is not enough room to get it out. Does anyone have a tip for getting it out. Pully out first? Back out first? Right side up/down? etc. Do I have to completly remove the tie rod from the steering gear?
05-07-2012, 08:39 PM
#29
I just had to do this install and have to add a couple things.
First, as others have stated, when you go to remove the pump and are having such a hard time getting it out, just hold that pump tight up against the exit hole you can't get through and jam your breaker bar up through one of the holes on the front of the pump pulley and then break that nut loose and remove the pulley.
By doing this, which will only take you about 5 minutes, it will save you over a half hour of fighting with the pump, busting your knuckles, and swearing every word created.
You need to take these two items off the pump anyway to install them on your new pump, so save yourself a ton of hassle.
2. Be sure that when you re-install the high pressure line "adapter" onto your new pump that you properly torque it down before installing the mounting bracket, if you don't you will not be able to do it later as it is completely blocked by everything else, you can't even get an open end wrench onto the head..so do it before hand!
3. Be sure to leave plenty of time to do this job...you'll need it. It took me the whole weekend basically to do it right, bleed it, test it, and all that.
Otherwise this is a good write up and it needs to be posted in the "How-to" section so it's easier to find.
First, as others have stated, when you go to remove the pump and are having such a hard time getting it out, just hold that pump tight up against the exit hole you can't get through and jam your breaker bar up through one of the holes on the front of the pump pulley and then break that nut loose and remove the pulley.
By doing this, which will only take you about 5 minutes, it will save you over a half hour of fighting with the pump, busting your knuckles, and swearing every word created.
You need to take these two items off the pump anyway to install them on your new pump, so save yourself a ton of hassle.
2. Be sure that when you re-install the high pressure line "adapter" onto your new pump that you properly torque it down before installing the mounting bracket, if you don't you will not be able to do it later as it is completely blocked by everything else, you can't even get an open end wrench onto the head..so do it before hand!
3. Be sure to leave plenty of time to do this job...you'll need it. It took me the whole weekend basically to do it right, bleed it, test it, and all that.
Otherwise this is a good write up and it needs to be posted in the "How-to" section so it's easier to find.
Last edited by back2basics; 05-07-2012 at 08:52 PM.
05-08-2012, 04:40 AM
#30
Wow, talk about an old thread. Funny part is that I had already done this install once or twice when I wrote this. In regards to your additions, this is most likely due to the pump you acquired. Every pump that I bought (cause I had to buy a few unfortunately) came with a pulley and never required any sort of high pressure line adapter. If you can post a picture of that, I think that would definitely help future readers of this thread. I will edit the first post with a link to your post.
09-19-2012, 02:43 PM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
I have a power steering leak around the pump area, I think it is one of the seals at the lines. From the sounds of it, the best time to do the pump is when you are replacing the rack and pinion too. I think both of them are leaking on mine. At least the rack and pinion boots are ripped open. I have access to a lift so it shouldn't be too bad. I am thinking of replacing the power steering lines too while I am in there. I recently just did both lower control arms, a drive axle on the drivers side, and a wheel bearing on the passenger side. I just recently bought the car, and the car was in rough shape when I got it. I am slowly bringing it back to be a decent looking car. The car is a 95 with 95,000 miles on it.
06-02-2013, 03:22 PM
#33
Well time to show some love to an old thread. .I'm doing a whole different job regarding my 00 max,started as vias,when i found a link on my beloved .org until i pulled the hose out of the pcv,long story.grommet fell into valve cover...it akl went down hill.
..You should know what i had to do next but now that i'm here...i'll replace vc gaskets ,vias has been jb'ed up and ready to go but since i stumbled onto this old thread I'm taking the time to replace both hoses on my sp...if not replace it all...should be fun!
..You should know what i had to do next but now that i'm here...i'll replace vc gaskets ,vias has been jb'ed up and ready to go but since i stumbled onto this old thread I'm taking the time to replace both hoses on my sp...if not replace it all...should be fun!
06-30-2013, 02:56 AM
#34
I nice trick is to use a grinder and shave some of the metal on the pump where the 14mm sliding bolt goes through. This will give you the wiggle room to use one hand to move it in place while you use the other hand to put the bolt in. Trying to tap it in while on your back is impossible. Grinding 1 to 2 mm won't affect the structure of the pump.
01-12-2020, 07:09 AM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 87
I nice trick is to use a grinder and shave some of the metal on the pump where the 14mm sliding bolt goes through. This will give you the wiggle room to use one hand to move it in place while you use the other hand to put the bolt in. Trying to tap it in while on your back is impossible. Grinding 1 to 2 mm won't affect the structure of the pump.
01-12-2020, 07:41 AM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 87
Resurrecting this old thread. I replaced my power steering pump on my 99 maxima yesterday and found it to be much easier than described in this thread. I don't see what the fuss is all about.
Here is what I did:
First easy step: Flush out old fluid. Someone in one of the above threads recommended this for a honda, but BlueBob said the return line is too difficult to get to. I found it very quick and easy to do as follows:
Sucked the old ps fluid out of the reservoir with an oil extractor. Removed both hoses from bottom of the reservoir, then removed the reservoir. Then I removed the return line hose (the small one I just took off the reservoir) from the hard-line, then I attached a 3 foot long hose to the hard line and ran it down into a drain pan. Then I stuck a large funnel in the larger rubber feed hose that goes down to the pump (it's the other larger one I just took off the bottom of the reservoir). Started the car and had a helper turn the wheels from stop to stop while I poured 3 quarts of new fresh power steering fluid in the funnel. This step expelled all of the old nasty fluid and replaced with fresh. So now won't have old nasty fluid flowing through my new pump.
Additionally, I found it easier to remove the high-pressure line from the pump via the tire rod area access hole. There is plenty of room to easily fit a 24mm box end wrench on the banjo. (caveat, loosen the banjo bolt first before loosening the ps pump from the brackets). I didn't get much fluid dripping out since I let the old pump run dry after flushing (in the step mentioned above)
Also, I left the larger return line attached to the ps pump and just snaked it down.
the long 14mm mounting bolt on the back of the pump is easily accessible from over and through the cross member with a long ratchet extension with a swivel on the end.
Removing the tie rod end: Lots of nonsense in this thread regarding tie rod removal. Puller or pickelfork NOT required. Undo the castle nut with an impact wrench, then put the castle nut back on - just turn it a few threads, then simply whack the knuckle a few times with a good hammer. The shock of the hammer releases the tapered tie rod end. Hit it hard, you are not going to hurt anything (just be careful not to hit the castle nut or the tire rod end or the rubber boot, you need to smack the actual knuckle that the tie rod goes into.) I have never used a picklefork or separator ever. This method works and you can put everything back together later and it's fine.
Someone above mentioned "don't take off the adjuster bolt, saves time" I could not find a way to remove the pump without taking off the adjuster bolt. Putting the adjuster bolt back on is a bit challenging once the new pump is in, but doable if you're careful.
Upon removing the mounting bolts I was able to remove the pump and get it through the tie rod access hole with no problem no struggle. Seriously, guys, this was easy, only took a few seconds and I did not need to force anything I did NOT remove the pulley as some folks recommend. One trick I found is to turn the steering wheel far right to the stop, this moves the passenger side tie rod all the way in and gives you much more room to work.
Someone also mentioned easier to remove the pump if you first remove the pass side axel. Not necessary at all unless you like doing extra work. There is plenty of room to work without removing the axel.
Other caveats: Get the copper crush washers (for the big lower 24mm banjo bolt) ahead of time. My new PS pump did not include these, (but the copper crush washers for the banjo on the pump are indeed included). Also, my ps pump included two O-rings, one is for the return hose flange. At first glance this O-ring looks to big, but trust me, it fits. The other small O-ring that came with the pump is a mystery.
While I was doing this job, I replaced the alternator/AC belt tensioner. Seemed like whenever I changed the belt, the tension-er needed a lot of force to move up and down. So I noticed the slide bolt on the back of tension-er was getting hung up on something, would not move up and down smoothly. Turned out it was hitting the mounting bracket for the alternator. I decided to grind the head of the slide bolt slightly to increase the clearance. No harm. Moves nicely now. (i put a dab of copper never-seize on the slider). I don't know if all of our 4th gen max's have this issue, but damn, it was looking pretty tight behind the tensioner bracket.
Remember: Upon tightening the alternator/ac belt - turning the tensioner adjuster right (clockwise) = tight belt. The power steering adjuster is just the opposite. Turning left (counter clockwise) = belt tight.
Here is what I did:
First easy step: Flush out old fluid. Someone in one of the above threads recommended this for a honda, but BlueBob said the return line is too difficult to get to. I found it very quick and easy to do as follows:
Sucked the old ps fluid out of the reservoir with an oil extractor. Removed both hoses from bottom of the reservoir, then removed the reservoir. Then I removed the return line hose (the small one I just took off the reservoir) from the hard-line, then I attached a 3 foot long hose to the hard line and ran it down into a drain pan. Then I stuck a large funnel in the larger rubber feed hose that goes down to the pump (it's the other larger one I just took off the bottom of the reservoir). Started the car and had a helper turn the wheels from stop to stop while I poured 3 quarts of new fresh power steering fluid in the funnel. This step expelled all of the old nasty fluid and replaced with fresh. So now won't have old nasty fluid flowing through my new pump.
Additionally, I found it easier to remove the high-pressure line from the pump via the tire rod area access hole. There is plenty of room to easily fit a 24mm box end wrench on the banjo. (caveat, loosen the banjo bolt first before loosening the ps pump from the brackets). I didn't get much fluid dripping out since I let the old pump run dry after flushing (in the step mentioned above)
Also, I left the larger return line attached to the ps pump and just snaked it down.
the long 14mm mounting bolt on the back of the pump is easily accessible from over and through the cross member with a long ratchet extension with a swivel on the end.
Removing the tie rod end: Lots of nonsense in this thread regarding tie rod removal. Puller or pickelfork NOT required. Undo the castle nut with an impact wrench, then put the castle nut back on - just turn it a few threads, then simply whack the knuckle a few times with a good hammer. The shock of the hammer releases the tapered tie rod end. Hit it hard, you are not going to hurt anything (just be careful not to hit the castle nut or the tire rod end or the rubber boot, you need to smack the actual knuckle that the tie rod goes into.) I have never used a picklefork or separator ever. This method works and you can put everything back together later and it's fine.
Someone above mentioned "don't take off the adjuster bolt, saves time" I could not find a way to remove the pump without taking off the adjuster bolt. Putting the adjuster bolt back on is a bit challenging once the new pump is in, but doable if you're careful.
Upon removing the mounting bolts I was able to remove the pump and get it through the tie rod access hole with no problem no struggle. Seriously, guys, this was easy, only took a few seconds and I did not need to force anything I did NOT remove the pulley as some folks recommend. One trick I found is to turn the steering wheel far right to the stop, this moves the passenger side tie rod all the way in and gives you much more room to work.
Someone also mentioned easier to remove the pump if you first remove the pass side axel. Not necessary at all unless you like doing extra work. There is plenty of room to work without removing the axel.
Other caveats: Get the copper crush washers (for the big lower 24mm banjo bolt) ahead of time. My new PS pump did not include these, (but the copper crush washers for the banjo on the pump are indeed included). Also, my ps pump included two O-rings, one is for the return hose flange. At first glance this O-ring looks to big, but trust me, it fits. The other small O-ring that came with the pump is a mystery.
While I was doing this job, I replaced the alternator/AC belt tensioner. Seemed like whenever I changed the belt, the tension-er needed a lot of force to move up and down. So I noticed the slide bolt on the back of tension-er was getting hung up on something, would not move up and down smoothly. Turned out it was hitting the mounting bracket for the alternator. I decided to grind the head of the slide bolt slightly to increase the clearance. No harm. Moves nicely now. (i put a dab of copper never-seize on the slider). I don't know if all of our 4th gen max's have this issue, but damn, it was looking pretty tight behind the tensioner bracket.
Remember: Upon tightening the alternator/ac belt - turning the tensioner adjuster right (clockwise) = tight belt. The power steering adjuster is just the opposite. Turning left (counter clockwise) = belt tight.
Last edited by wdornbach; 01-16-2020 at 10:37 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MichaelAE
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
1
07-06-2002 08:19 PM
